The Reseeding/Stitching Discussion Thread.

Reggie.

stanflt wrote: »

I never go more than 13.5kg- if index’s are correct there’s no need- I find with ploughing that you get a serious germination compared to the likes of a gutler- with ploughing and correct management the sward will last 50 years - I’ve seen gutler jobs being needed to be re done after 4 as the rye grass has died and been replaced by wild meadow grass
If not ploughing I’d direct drill- clover seems to establish far better when it’s direct drilled
These are only my experiences with my land type so mightn’t be the same for everyone

This can be true but if the rye-grass dies out its usually due to bad grassland management. That will happen with any method of reseeding really

morphy87

stanflt wrote: »

I never go more than 13.5kg- if index’s are correct there’s no need- I find with ploughing that you get a serious germination compared to the likes of a gutler- with ploughing and correct management the sward will last 5a0 years - I’ve seen gutler jobs being needed to be re done after 4 as the rye grass has died and been replaced by wild meadow grass
If not ploughing I’d direct drill- clover seems to establish far better when it’s direct drilled
These are only my experiences with my land type so mightn’t be the same for everyone

So if indexes were low you would sow a bit heavier? Would you have many stones with the ploughing? Was hoping to do some reseeding in the spring and was thinking of ploughing

stanflt

morphy87 wrote: »

So if indexes were low you would sow a bit heavier? Would you have many stones with the ploughing? Was hoping to do some reseeding in the spring and was thinking of ploughing

If course you’ll have stones if it’s a stoney field but I wouldn’t let a few stone get in the way of progress

morphy87

stanflt wrote: »

If course you’ll have stones if it’s a stoney field but I wouldn’t let a few stone get in the way of progress

So when you plough, what do you do till your ready to sow? Do you roll,harrow etc

stanflt

morphy87 wrote: »

So when you plough, what do you do till your ready to sow? Do you roll,harrow etc

Plough 2 till with second run sowing- flat roll and jobs done

mythos110

The last few fields I've done here:
- Spray
- +2 weeks - Dung (FYM with side spreader)
- +1 week Disc x2 if not x3 runs
- Lime (either granlime or quarry limestone)
- Powerharrow and sow grass seed in one pass (air seeder on PH)
- Fertilizer
- Roll

I'm in lightish soil and high going. Fields are smooth enough so don't need much in the line of levelling. I find I have very little in the line of stones to pick as the disc does a better job of leaving them in the ground than the plough would.

If field is very rough I'd plough and probably only give one run with the disc and then land leveller before sowing with the PH.

I find that by going handy enough (~3kph) with the power harrow when sowing, you'll do a nice tidy job after just discing

morphy87

stanflt wrote: »

Plough 2 till with second run sowing- flat roll and jobs done

I know one man done a lot of reseeding this year with a plough and after ploughing it he rolled it straight away and then rolled it again after sowing, and I know another always gives it two runs of a land leveler after ploughing, would there be any need to do this after ploughing if a contractor was coming in after the plough with a big power harrow and then with a harrow in the grass seed box?

stanflt

morphy87 wrote: »

I know one man done a lot of reseeding this year with a plough and after ploughing it he rolled it straight away and then rolled it again after sowing, and I know another always gives it two runs of a land leveler after ploughing, would there be any need to do this after ploughing if a contractor was coming in after the plough with a big power harrow and then with a harrow in the grass seed box?

Absolute waste of time- my man has a 6 metre outfit and it’s brilliant for levelling the field- biggest damage is done when spreading fert afterwards as it can leave headlands rough

morphy87

stanflt wrote: »

Absolute waste of time- my man has a 6 metre outfit and it’s brilliant for levelling the field- biggest damage is done when spreading fert afterwards as it can leave headlands rough

Was thinking that, my man that does my reseeding also has a 6 meter power harrow, usually we disc and then harrow,then sow but he now has a roller behind the sower and a harrow in front of the grass seed box, if you had a 6 meter harrow going in after the plough would it make much of a difference if the man wasn’t great on the plough?

Farmer_3650

Whats the idea of rolling after the plough?

morphy87

Farmer_3650 wrote: »

Whats the idea of rolling after the plough?

I don’t know but I know some people that do it

Buford T. Justice XIX

Farmer_3650 wrote: »

Whats the idea of rolling after the plough?

You break down the bigger clumps into smaller ones and are supposed to get a more level seedbed when harrowing or levelling afterwards.

I doubt it's really needed now with powerharrows.

Reggie.

Buford T. Justice XIX wrote: »

You break down the bigger clumps into smaller ones and are supposed to get a more level seedbed when harrowing or levelling afterwards.

I doubt it's really needed now with powerharrows.

It does help in fairness

Buford T. Justice XIX

Reggie. wrote: »

It does help in fairness

We used do it when we were using just the spring tine harrows but we would just leave it to the powerharrow now.

Would there be heights and hollows across the field without rolling? Or would you need 2 runs to get it right?

Reggie.

Buford T. Justice XIX wrote: »

We used do it when we were using just the spring tine harrows but we would just leave it to the powerharrow now.

Would there be heights and hollows across the field without rolling? Or would you need 2 runs to get it right?

You see you have to be careful because a field can look fine and level after seeding but in 2 years time ya might not be able to drive across it it's that uneven when it settles.

That's why you can never till land enough before the final powerharrow and seeding. Let that be a disc or landlevellor or both.

morphy87

Reggie. wrote: »

You see you have to be careful because a field can look fine and level after seeding but in 2 years time ya might not be able to drive across it it's that uneven when it settles.

That's why you can never till land enough before the final powerharrow and seeding. Let that be a disc or landlevellor or both.

So after the plough would you recommend roll or a land leveler?

Reggie.

morphy87 wrote: »

So after the plough would you recommend roll or a land leveler?

Whichever you wish. If you have the tools why not use then. Time spent tilling is never wasted. Once its sowed that's it. Get the field to the point that your happy with then sow.

Most lads will go a certain way cos they dont want to pay for runs of a landlevellor or disc.

The work you put in at the start dictates the finish. There is no one perfect way to do it as every field is unique with contours and soil type.

charolais0153

Reggie. wrote: »

Whichever you wish. If you have the tools why not use then. Time spent tilling is never wasted. Once its sowed that's it. Get the field to the point that your happy with then sow.

Most lads will go a certain way cos they dont want to pay for runs of a landlevellor or disc.

The work you put in at the start dictates the finish. There is no one perfect way to do it as every field is unique with contours and soil type.

Have a field that would throw u about driving across.disc and one pass.

davidk1394

Did anyone every try go alfalfa or lucerne in Ireland or is the climate too cold?

Reggie.

davidk1394 wrote: »

Did anyone every try go alfalfa or lucerne in Ireland or is the climate too cold?

Talk to dawg

Castlekeeper

davidk1394 wrote: »

Did anyone every try go alfalfa or lucerne in Ireland or is the climate too cold?

Yes and yes.
You'd struggle to grow it in most of England not to mind here.

wrangler

Castlekeeper wrote: »

Yes and yes.
You'd struggle to grow it in most of England not to mind here.

I was in Gurteen in 1969 and lucerne was grown there at that time, cut with a ford 5000 and double chop

Say my name

It's grown or it was these past few years near Ferns.
Don't know anymore about it after that.

Never wrestle with pigs

Hoping to reseed 20 AC next week. Am I mad? Should I wait to plough in spring? I'd like to get it sprayed and grazed before mid November.

Reggie.

Never wrestle with pigs wrote: »

Hoping to reseed 20 AC next week. Am I mad? Should I wait to plough in spring? I'd like to get it sprayed and grazed before mid November.

Can be done, I'm still reseeding atm. No sign of anyone stopping

Castlekeeper

Never wrestle with pigs wrote: »

Hoping to reseed 20 AC next week. Am I mad? Should I wait to plough in spring? I'd like to get it sprayed and grazed before mid November.

Not at all, once your not banking on big clover establishment. I've seen grass sown successfully in October many times. Not so sure about the spraying and grazing though but you'd get over that.

Reggie.

Castlekeeper wrote: »

Not at all, once your not banking on big clover establishment. I've seen grass sown successfully in October many times. Not so sure about the spraying and grazing though but you'd get over that.

Spraying can be done in the spring

Farm365

What are the do’s and don’t of stitching? Is it more suitable for any particular land type? What’s the difference in cost?

Mixedbag

davidk1394 wrote: »

Did anyone every try go alfalfa or lucerne in Ireland or is the climate too cold?

I've a 3 acre field sown at the end of April. Got 1 cut so far and due a cut again now. I didn't know if the lucerne would grow so I put a half rate of grass seed mix in with it. So far so good with growth and a great nitrogen fixer. We'll see in another month or so what the feed value is like.

Reggie.

Farm365 wrote: »

What are the do’s and don’t of stitching? Is it more suitable for any particular land type? What’s the difference in cost?

PROS: Quicker, less work (tilling and picking stones), contractor cost could be half of traditional reseeding, no disturbing the soil structure too much.

CONS: Your seed selection has to be on the ball, grass management afterwards is key, No N can be applied for a few weeks, more danger of the seed not germinating, seeds can be abit more in danger of attack from pests like slugs