The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

red bull · 15-07-2020 8:35pm

deezell wrote: »

Keep the oil topped/changed, don't abuse and they'll all last a long time. GGP engine is probably made in China, but to their standard. If the mowers are identically priced, then maybe swing towards b&s, previously there was a big price difference in same Stiga group mowers with a choice of GGP, B&S and Honda engines, but they seem to have consolidated choice across all models and brands, Stiga, CG, Mountfield and Alpina, and another clone brand I forget right now. Try and see both models, and compare the feel of each. It's a bit like Lexus and Toyota, or VW and Skoda/Seat.

Both priced the same €2500. The Mountfield guy ran down the CG engine as the worst B&S ever made and the CG guy said the other one was Chinese S,,,T.
I think I will go for the CG

deezell · 15-07-2020 8:46pm

red bull wrote: »

Both priced the same €2500. The Mountfield guy ran down the CG engine as the worst B&S ever made and the CG guy said the other one was Chinese S,,,T.
I think I will go for the CG

So BS (BullS**t) engine v. Dragon S**t engine. Interesting, love to get those guys in the same room. The only mower feature they could argue about was the engine, the rest is identical.

thos · 22-07-2020 1:55pm

Hi all,
Looking for some advice here - basically sell or keep ...

I've got a 2004 Castelgarden XT180HD (TCX102) ride on mower. I bought it for eur1500 5yrs ago, and in the past 2 years have put a brand new 19HP B&S Engine, complete new deck this year, new front axle, new clutch, new chute, new battery, along with other serviceable belts etc. It's been well looked after, electrics are in good condition, and chassis has been treated in the few areas where there was a bit of service rust. Bag has seen better days, but for now everything is working, and with the new deck & chute it's cutting beautifully. It has mulching blades & plug, and a tow bar.

So, question really is how much longer do I keep it. I figure it's decision time to either sell it now while it's in good condition, or settle in for the long haul and ride this baby until it completely falls apart.

It meets my needs in terms of size, I don't really have a need for anything bigger, wouldn't go any smaller either. I've got 4/5 areas of lawn, 0.5 acre overall, with .25 acre on the biggest area. Garden layout doesn't suit robot lawnmower, and I tend to use the tow bar for other bits around the place so a ride on suits me. If I were buying new, I'd be buying a very similar mower in terms of size & power, and I can't really see any other 'features' I'm missing compared to newer or even more 'premium' mowers. The thing I do value is reliability, and that's the main temptation in changing now for a new mower.

Any thoughts? What is the mower worth as is? Anything I'm missing in what would be a potential 'upgrade'? Would I notice much difference with an equivalent Husqvarna or anything else?

Thanks,
Tom

deezell · 22-07-2020 2:09pm

At a guess figure you've spent €800-1000, if you've done all the work yourself. Theres no major surprises left, small stuff like the starter pinion maybe. Hydro drive should be sound.. Would you get a €1000 for it? Maybe. Will you get roughly the same amount in 2022 ? Near enough, so get till 2022 out of it, get something back for all the work you've done.

thos · 22-07-2020 3:59pm

deezell wrote: »

At a guess figure you've spent €800-1000, if you've done all the work yourself. Theres no major surprises left, small stuff like the starter pinion maybe. Hydro drive should be sound.. Would you get a €1000 for it? Maybe. Will you get roughly the same amount in 2022 ? Near enough, so get till 2022 out of it, get something back for all the work you've done.

Getting something back is one way to look at it alright, the other is trying to figure out at what point is it good money after bad. It's already got a reputation around as Triggers Mower.

Money spent is €1200+ at this point.

Hydro is the last bit I'm worried about, can't find much info about worst case scenario there.

deezell · 22-07-2020 5:38pm

thos wrote: »

Getting something back is one way to look at it alright, the other is trying to figure out at what point is it good money after bad. It's already got a reputation around as Triggers Mower.

Money spent is €1200+ at this point.

Hydro is the last bit I'm worried about, can't find much info about worst case scenario there.

I doubt anyone ever bought a replacement one for a 16 year old mower, even a used one would be worth the machine, they're pretty much a lifetime part. With new engine, clutch and deck it would be a sound buy, but the age is against it. You could put it in adverts and cut your losses, I can't see €1200 In it though. If you fancy a new mower and have the dough, go for it, sell your own soon while it's still summer. Put it in adverts, emphasise all new parts. Did it originally have a b&s engine or a Kawasaki or other? This mower can still be bought brand new in an few places for 4K, using that price and 15 years depreciation, it might be worth 400-600, depending on condition, so you're hoping the new bits might swing a few hundred more.

bamayang · 23-07-2020 10:26pm

Sorry to but in, but I’m in exact same position as previous poster. Have a 17 year old castle garden. Engine is bullet proof, but little things going the whole time. New deck, new belts, brakes, bracket holding the seat had to be welded back last week. Bag is very withered.
Any suggestions for a similar machine that would provide as good in terms of engine reliability?

deezell · 23-07-2020 11:12pm

bamayang wrote: »

Sorry to but in, but I’m in exact same position as previous poster. Have a 17 year old castle garden. Engine is bullet proof, but little things going the whole time. New deck, new belts, brakes, bracket holding the seat had to be welded back last week. Bag is very withered.
Any suggestions for a similar machine that would provide as good in terms of engine reliability?

The build quality of Viking, now Stihl, is a class above Castelgarden, who still have a lot of legacy from their budget mower days, (i.e, 17 years plus ago) still in their current range. This stihl is also in a size and performance class above the 102 cm Castelgarden standard offerings.
This Stihl has a 110cm cut, more than 3 inches wider than your standard 102 deck mowers. It has a V twin cylinder B&S engine, which is hugely powerful and extremely quiet. Deck and drive belt servicing is a doddle, you can drop the deck off without tools, just a few clips. Grassbox is solid, no fabric. Steering, levers, pedals all have a rock solid feel. For the price being asked below, it's a steal. If it was painted red with Honda wrote on it, you'd pay 2 grand more .
https://www.fitzhire.ie/tractors/250-stihl-rt-5112-oz-mower.html
I parted company with a near 20 year old CG, a few years back, and like you both, a lot of onging repairs, new deck, grass chute, front axle, rear differential, (manual tranny), starter, clutch lever, wheel bearings, Seat and seat bracket, timing belt idler, frequent belts and batteries, and I always felt that just a little more robustness to match the engine quality would have been great, but mowing 1.8 acres of grass for all that time, it owed me nothing.

thos · 25-07-2020 11:52am

deezell wrote: »

I doubt anyone ever bought a replacement one for a 16 year old mower, even a used one would be worth the machine, they're pretty much a lifetime part. With new engine, clutch and deck it would be a sound buy, but the age is against it. You could put it in adverts and cut your losses, I can't see €1200 In it though. If you fancy a new mower and have the dough, go for it, sell your own soon while it's still summer. Put it in adverts, emphasise all new parts. Did it originally have a b&s engine or a Kawasaki or other? This mower can still be bought brand new in an few places for 4K, using that price and 15 years depreciation, it might be worth 400-600, depending on condition, so you're hoping the new bits might swing a few hundred more.

Mower sold this morning, 1200 quid, first to see bought, 3 calls on it, ad wasn't up 24hrs.

Time to go shopping.

The Stihl looks well, can't seem to find a dealer nearby - any suggestions for North County Dublin?

Any comments on Husqvarna equivalent - TC 242T or similar?

monkeynuz · 25-07-2020 12:59pm

thos wrote: »

Mower sold this morning, 1200 quid, first to see bought, 3 calls on it, ad wasn't up 24hrs.

Time to go shopping.

The Stihl looks well, can't seem to find a dealer nearby - any suggestions for North County Dublin?

Any comments on Husqvarna equivalent - TC 242T or similar?

Donegans in cavan will post you one, give them a call and see what their best price is.

deezell · 25-07-2020 5:37pm

thos wrote: »

Mower sold this morning, 1200 quid, first to see bought, 3 calls on it, ad wasn't up 24hrs.

Time to go shopping.

The Stihl looks well, can't seem to find a dealer nearby - any suggestions for North County Dublin?

Any comments on Husqvarna equivalent - TC 242T or similar?

Result! Great to get a return on all the new parts.

The husky is competitively priced, at least in Leitrim,
https://rowlettegardenequipment.ie/product/tc242t
Some posters here recently were unhappy with Husqvarna build quality though. Maybe some ex owners could comment.
On paper they have very close spec, Husky 108cm to the Stihl 110cm, same v twin engine, the only significant difference afaik is the Husqvarna deck is non synchronous, the blades are not timed and do not overlap inline. Instead, one blade is a good few cm ahead of the other, so they can overlap without clattering into each other. Deck drive is by a long (8 foot) looped serpentine belt. Synchro deck claims to give a better finish, and vibrate less, and there's less belt replacement.

I've noticed a good bit of discounting on premium machines, so good value this minute on big cut ride ons.

thos · 26-07-2020 9:49am

Husky tractor mowers slated by two dealers yesterday - including one Husky dealer, he has everything else from them but won’t sell the tractor mowers. So that’s worrying!

Discounts on what’s left in stock, but seems not a lot in stock and not due in, but still looking around.

Would like to buy local to get benefit out of new mower warranty.

AL-KO Solo on the radar, T16-103. Anyone got experience of these?

opinionated3 · 26-07-2020 12:27pm

I'm in my second year of ownership of a husqvarna tc239t. Very happy with it so far. Saves me a lot of time on mowing and has been very reliable.

GinSoaked · 26-07-2020 1:19pm

Dealers will sell what they can make the most money on regardless of quality. If Husqvarna machines don't have a big margin are difficult to source or have poor credit deals then the dealer isn't going to want to sell them as much as a machine with a big profit margin that they can get in quantity and don't need to pay for for 6 months.

westsidestory · 27-07-2020 2:43pm

GinSoaked wrote: »

Dealers will sell what they can make the most money on regardless of quality. If Husqvarna machines don't have a big margin are difficult to source or have poor credit deals then the dealer isn't going to want to sell them as much as a machine with a big profit margin that they can get in quantity and don't need to pay for for 6 months.

Rang a well known dealer in Munster few months back and he warned me off the machine I was enquiring about and promoted another he does not sell. There are honest sellers out there who do not want to sell something that does not fit the requirements, he was the owner of the business.

The Nal · 27-07-2020 2:59pm

Anyone know where I'd get a spare grass catcher for this puppy?

Pro Lawn 42cm 139cc Hyundai Push Petrol Lawnmower

https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-42cm-139cc-hyundai-push-petrol-lawnmower-1153278

deezell · 28-07-2020 11:25am

The Nal wrote: »

Anyone know where I'd get a spare grass catcher for this puppy?

Pro Lawn 42cm 139cc Hyundai Push Petrol Lawnmower

https://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-42cm-139cc-hyundai-push-petrol-lawnmower-1153278

Apart from asking in woodies who their parts agents are, try http://www.johnmckenna.eu/
Or https://www.doyles.ie/
Have you got the old catcher? Take a pic. If not, go to Woodies, take a pic if the shop floor one. While you're at it, search the catcher for a part no., as its likely a generic one, on lots of different budget brands.

garv123 · 30-07-2020 5:39pm

Quick question.
https://www.castelgarden.com/int/294557523-c16-xs-55-bve.html
I have the above mower, all going well until one stick too many broke the blade adaptor.
Anyways a friend fixed that and serviced it and adjusted cables.
One issue we've noticed is that its difficult to turn, both rear wheels are turning at the same speed, even when the mower is off. Feels like diff lock in a 4x4.

I don't think it was like this before, or was it and I'm losing the plot?

Anyone any suggestions? Seems to be plenty slack on all the cables.

BowWow · 30-07-2020 10:31pm

My Mountfield SP530 is about to give up the ghost. Doesn't owe me anything, probably have it 15 years. Replaced blades and a few other bits over the years, but engine is now bad and deck is rusting.
Have about 400 square metres of lawn.
Option 1 - Should I just go to B&Q and buy the modern version of an SP530?
Option 2 - Saw a couple of machines in Lidl today. Both Gardenpro Powerplus, one with a 125cc engine and 460mm cutting width, the other with a 140cc engine and 510mm cutting width. Both B&G engines and self propelled. Second one looks like the same spec as the existing Mountfield.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

deezell · 30-07-2020 10:39pm

garv123 wrote: »

Quick question.
https://www.castelgarden.com/int/294557523-c16-xs-55-bve.html
I have the above mower, all going well until one stick too many broke the blade adaptor.
Anyways a friend fixed that and serviced it and adjusted cables.
One issue we've noticed is that its difficult to turn, both rear wheels are turning at the same speed, even when the mower is off. Feels like diff lock in a 4x4.

I don't think it was like this before, or was it and I'm losing the plot?

Anyone any suggestions? Seems to be plenty slack on all the cables.

Unlike a ride on mower, a powered walk behind does not have a differential axle. The single drive shaft is coupled to both wheels by pinion gears inside the wheel rim, but via a freewheel mechanism, which allow the outer wheel on a turn to rotate faster than the shaft driven inner wheel. If both freewheels jammed or seized, the mower would behave as if a diff lock was on and would be difficult to turn. If only one freewheel is stuck, the mower will also have difficulty turning in the opposite direction to the side of the stuck wheel, as it won't 'overrun' the slower rotation of the driven inner wheel.
To test, do the following. On a hard surface, engine off, engage the drive and push the mower forward. Both rear wheels should rotate freely. If you feel pressure when you engage the drive, turn to left and right to see which wheel is not overrunning the drive shaft, which is static if engaged with the engine off. The overrun or freewheel mechanism is normally a simple sliding plate through the shaft which engages with a rachet profile on the inside of the wheel pinion. The pinions are left and right hand side. If you've had the wheels off and don't put these and the engaging plate back in correctly, they could be locked.

gear-wheel-drive-sx-lawnmower-mower-emak-66030228-100184-emak.jpg

gear-wheel-drive-sx-lawnmower-mower-emak-66030228-100184-emak.jpg

deezell · 30-07-2020 10:46pm

BowWow wrote: »

My Mountfield SP530 is about to give up the ghost. Doesn't owe me anything, probably have it 15 years. Replaced blades and a few other bits over the years, but engine is now bad and deck is rusting.
Have about 400 square metres of lawn.
Option 1 - Should I just go to B&Q and buy the modern version of an SP530?
Option 2 - Saw a couple of machines in Lidl today. Both Gardenpro Powerplus, one with a 125cc engine and 460mm cutting width, the other with a 140cc engine and 510mm cutting width. Both B&G engines and self propelled. Second one looks like the same spec as the existing Mountfield.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Check the sturdyness of the wheels, levers, handles, and any mechanisms other than deck, engine and blade. It's the quality of these that makes the difference in price. I was looking at a budget 51cm in *** recently, fine B&S engine, reasonably sturdy deck, but four hollow plastic wheels suitable for a toddler's toy.

hdl · 31-07-2020 12:26am

Looking for some advice on an electric lawnmower for an older relative, but it's been years since I purchased one myself, so if anyone can help make the decision I'd be very grateful. He was looking at this Flymo and this Spear and Jackson, and I have to admit I've never heard of that brand before.

It's for a decent sized garden in an estate, detached house, so garden on 3 sides. Advice and opinions appreciated, thanks.

deezell · 31-07-2020 7:03am

hdl wrote: »

Looking for some advice on an electric lawnmower for an older relative, but it's been years since I purchased one myself, so if anyone can help make the decision I'd be very grateful. He was looking at this Flymo and this Spear and Jackson, and I have to admit I've never heard of that brand before.

It's for a decent sized garden in an estate, detached house, so garden on 3 sides. Advice and opinions appreciated, thanks.

Spear & Jackson are a long established respected brand, now a globalised brand vehicle, but once part of the British indigenous industrial complex in Sheffield when Britain used to actually make stuff other than kebabs, larger and online gambling sites. I digress.

There's little to chose at first look, the S&J is a cm wider cut and a 100w more powereful, not things you'd notice much. Much more important is it's higher cut setting, at 7.5cm, over the Flymo 6cm. This could be important when tackling a lawn which has grown too high. Also in it's favour is the 3 year warranty over the 1 year of the Flymo, in the unlikely event of the motor going pear shaped in short time.
The above issues may never happen, but there's no getting away from the one big difference in the Flymo's favour, it's weight. At only 11kg v the 18.5kg of the Spear, it's always going to be an easier lug around the garden, especially as it's a push mower, with a cable to consider, and the operator is elderly, not to say that they might be more sprightly and agile than yourself. The 68% heavier S&J implies more rugged construction, so will probably take more abuse in the long run, which might be useful if the mowing was being done by a turbo driven teenage volunteer in a hurry to be, well, a teenager I suppose.
They are both the same price, so more bang for your buck with the heavier machine, but the Flymo might be better choice despite all that.

hdl · 31-07-2020 6:18pm

deezell wrote: »

Spear & Jackson are a long established respected brand, now a globalised brand vehicle, but once part of the British indigenous industrial complex in Sheffield when Britain used to actually make stuff other than kebabs, larger and online gambling sites. I digress.

There's little to chose at first look, the S&J is a cm wider cut and a 100w more powereful, not things you'd notice much. Much more important is it's higher cut setting, at 7.5cm, over the Flymo 6cm. This could be important when tackling a lawn which has grown too high. Also in it's favour is the 3 year warranty over the 1 year of the Flymo, in the unlikely event of the motor going pear shaped in short time.
The above issues may never happen, but there's no getting away from the one big difference in the Flymo's favour, it's weight. At only 11kg v the 18.5kg of the Spear, it's always going to be an easier lug around the garden, especially as it's a push mower, with a cable to consider, and the operator is elderly, not to say that they might be more sprightly and agile than yourself. The 68% heavier S&J implies more rugged construction, so will probably take more abuse in the long run, which might be useful if the mowing was being done by a turbo driven teenage volunteer in a hurry to be, well, a teenager I suppose.
They are both the same price, so more bang for your buck with the heavier machine, but the Flymo might be better choice despite all that.

Thanks very much for your feedback. I hadn't actually looked at the weight of them, and it really is something I should have taken into account, so I'm glad I asked, and appreciate your post. I'll pass the information on, but based on the weight I'd imagine he'll go for the Flymo. Thanks again.

garv123 · 01-08-2020 7:05pm

deezell wrote: »

Unlike a ride on mower, a powered walk behind does not have a differential axle. The single drive shaft is coupled to both wheels by pinion gears inside the wheel rim, but via a freewheel mechanism, which allow the outer wheel on a turn to rotate faster than the shaft driven inner wheel. If both freewheels jammed or seized, the mower would behave as if a diff lock was on and would be difficult to turn. If only one freewheel is stuck, the mower will also have difficulty turning in the opposite direction to the side of the stuck wheel, as it won't 'overrun' the slower rotation of the driven inner wheel.
To test, do the following. On a hard surface, engine off, engage the drive and push the mower forward. Both rear wheels should rotate freely. If you feel pressure when you engage the drive, turn to left and right to see which wheel is not overrunning the drive shaft, which is static if engaged with the engine off. The overrun or freewheel mechanism is normally a simple sliding plate through the shaft which engages with a rachet profile on the inside of the wheel pinion. The pinions are left and right hand side. If you've had the wheels off and don't put these and the engaging plate back in correctly, they could be locked.

Thanks Deezell,
Did the test with the mower on a hard surface and both wheels locked up solid. Didn't get to investigate more, but the only thing that was off during during the service was the belt, none of the wheels.

deezell · 01-08-2020 9:06pm

garv123 wrote: »

Thanks Deezell,
Did the test with the mower on a hard surface and both wheels locked up solid. Didn't get to investigate more, but the only thing that was off during during the service was the belt, none of the wheels.

Very strange that both wheels are locked to the shaft. They should turn forward freely even with the belt engaged with the engine not running. Heres a link to an exploded view. You can see the rachet pinions on either end of the drive shaft, and the rachet pin. It's not difficult to examine this, wheels are easily removed.

https://ersatzteil-shop24.de/bilder/zeichnungen/ggp_o_st/2013-2016/IPL_Castelgarden_XS_55_BVWE4_294557523-C16_16_EN.pdf

The only thing that could lock the freewheel would be if the rachet pins (30) on page 2 were rusted into their holes on the transmission shaft (21). These pins need to slide up and down in the shaft hole when the pinion gear is overrunning the shaft, otherwise they will stick
against the inner rachet profile on the pinions.

angrybeaver · 02-08-2020 4:41pm

Hi looking for some advice.

I’ve a castlegarden 13.5 Hp 90cm.
All running fine I hit a slight stone cutting yesterday and ever since every few minutes when cutting I hear a bang as if the blades are hitting each other or the sides. Metal on metal. When I turn the mower over the blades don’t touch the sides or each other when rotated.

Any advice to rectify?

Thanks

deezell · 02-08-2020 9:09pm

angrybeaver wrote: »

Hi looking for some advice.

I’ve a castlegarden 13.5 Hp 90cm.
All running fine I hit a slight stone cutting yesterday and ever since every few minutes when cutting I hear a bang as if the blades are hitting each other or the sides. Metal on metal. When I turn the mower over the blades don’t touch the sides or each other when rotated.

Any advice to rectify?

Thanks

The blades are losing synchronisation. It's likely the blade which struck the stone sheared the pins on the blade holder, leaving the blade retained only by the centre bolt, allowing the blade to slip position on the shaft.
Remove the blade and inspect the blade holder. It's also possible the timing belt may have some damaged teeth, causing it to jump position on the sprocket, thus going in and out of timing.

41jWe7-v9kL._AC_.jpg

Bedouin79 · 03-08-2020 8:22am

Great thread Guys, looking for advice/recommendations on either a 3 and 1 mower or a dedicated mulcher. Have a new lawn just under 4000m2 in one piece. I’ve a robot to do most of it, looking for a walk behind mower for the awkward areas and general tidying up. Any advice recommendations appreciated.

thos · 03-08-2020 8:32am

angrybeaver wrote: »

Hi looking for some advice.

I’ve a castlegarden 13.5 Hp 90cm.
All running fine I hit a slight stone cutting yesterday and ever since every few minutes when cutting I hear a bang as if the blades are hitting each other or the sides. Metal on metal. When I turn the mower over the blades don’t touch the sides or each other when rotated.

Any advice to rectify?

Thanks

Have you had a look under the deck to see what it looks like?
You sure both blades are still turning? Is there visible damage to the blades?
There’s a chance a stone strike could have skipped a tooth on the serpentine belt putting blades out of alignment.

deezell · 03-08-2020 10:12am

Bedouin79 wrote: »

Great thread Guys, looking for advice/recommendations on either a 3 and 1 mower or a dedicated mulcher. Have a new lawn just under 4000m2 in one piece. I’ve a robot to do most of it, looking for a walk behind mower for the awkward areas and general tidying up. Any advice recommendations appreciated.

A decent battery mower would seem ideal for mopping up operations like this, nothing too wide to get in the corners and edges. No messing with oil and petrol and pull cords. Something decent like this Cobra, or splash out on the more mainstream Ego models from the same supplier.
https://www.lawnmowerworld.ie/product-category/battery-lawnmowers/

c.p.w.g.w · 03-08-2020 1:34pm

Need a new lawn mower, my front & back garden is at most 30m2...but the grass grows so fast, think previous owner must have used some lawn feed or something...

I would like a rechargeable mower, is there any such mowers out there for a reasonable price?

c.p.w.g.w · 03-08-2020 1:35pm

Duplicate Post

deezell · 03-08-2020 2:16pm

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Need a new lawn mower, my front & back garden is at most 30m2...but the grass grows so fast, think previous owner must have used some lawn feed or something...

I would like a rechargeable mower, is there any such mowers out there for a reasonable price?

Good selection in Argos, you don't need anything huge for 30m2. This Flymo is reduced by 28%, only €180.

https://m.argos.ie/static/Product/partNumber/6058214/c_1/1%7Ccategory_root%7CLimited+stock+clearance%7C17503661/Trail/searchtext%3ELawnmower.htm

kaiserrussel · 04-08-2020 2:44pm

Hi All

Hoping someone can advise here - my brother had some version of this honda before and it was a really good mower. he broke the powerdrive and traded it in I think. A Friend of mine is looking at picking up one second hand

seems to be a few around - any thoughts or things he should look out for?

I know these had an independent blade clutch and power drive

I was juts telling im that these were a great mower and prob still are but didn't know anything about if you were buying a used one

angrybeaver · 04-08-2020 6:36pm

deezell wrote: »

The blades are losing synchronisation. It's likely the blade which struck the stone sheared the pins on the blade holder, leaving the blade retained only by the centre bolt, allowing the blade to slip position on the shaft.
Remove the blade and inspect the blade holder. It's also possible the timing belt may have some damaged teeth, causing it to jump position on the sprocket, thus going in and out of timing.

Thanks very much for the detailed reply, I’ve checked the blade holders and they look fine. Also checked the blades are both turning fine.

There doesn’t Appear to be a toothed serpentine Timing belt. 2007 Model I thing. It’s one smooth belt that is running from the engine to each pulley over each blade. With this set up the blades both turn when I move one but if I force them slightly I can move them separately. Would this belt be too loose and moving one blade faster than the other or something? No visible sign of damage. It was a small stone It hit and not what I thought enough to do major damage.

deezell · 04-08-2020 10:33pm

As it's a non synchronous deck, the blades don't overlap, they are always a few cm apart at the tips. In order to avoid a small unmown strip down the middle, the deck is offset, with one blade slightly ahead of the other then moved inwards so that they effectlively overlap without touching.These blades will move at slightly different speeds, with the tips coming together every so often but never touching. The belt will be tight enough to drive the blades but will not have any effect on positioning of the blades, as inevitably they will rotate at different rates, even a difference of only 0.1% will have the blade tips pass every 5 seconds with a rotational speed of 3000 rpm.
You need to check the clearance between the tips. If you can force rotate them as you said until the tips are opposite, then rotate both to check the clearance of the opposite set. Clearance should be the same. The only reason that the tips would strike would be a deformity or damage to deck or shafts. If a shaft was bent, one tip might be too close when it passes the tips of the other blade. If the actual deck metal was bent by the collision, the shaft housing might be tilted inwards. It's possible that a crack has opened somewhere around the shaft housing where it is bolted to the deck, and under drive pressure the housing is pulling inwards. Check that all deck shaft housing are fully bolted down, grab the blade at either end and twist it vertically, while perpendicular to the tractor, to see if it distorts on the deck
Something is causing the blades to strike, and the frequency is consistent with the slight difference in blade speed which is a feature of non synchronous decks.

ipitydafool · 06-08-2020 7:40pm

Hi,

Has anyone ever bought a ride on lawn mower or indeed any garden equipment off AgriEuro website? They have a machine I like but havent used them before, they seem to get good trustpilot scores, just wondering if any boardsies in here have used them

Cheers

Badger2009 · 07-08-2020 1:29pm

ipitydafool wrote: »

Hi,

Has anyone ever bought a ride on lawn mower or indeed any garden equipment off AgriEuro website? They have a machine I like but havent used them before, they seem to get good trustpilot scores, just wondering if any boardsies in here have used them

Cheers

I got a scarifier from them earlier this year. It was a lower end machine but was well described as such on their website. Delivery took approx. 2 weeks which wasn’t bad considering Covid. I’d have no hesitation recommending them.

angrybeaver · 07-08-2020 3:24pm

deezell wrote: »

As it's a non synchronous deck, the blades don't overlap, they are always a few cm apart at the tips. In order to avoid a small unmown strip down the middle, the deck is offset, with one blade slightly ahead of the other then moved inwards so that they effectlively overlap without touching.These blades will move at slightly different speeds, with the tips coming together every so often but never touching. The belt will be tight enough to drive the blades but will not have any effect on positioning of the blades, as inevitably they will rotate at different rates, even a difference of only 0.1% will have the blade tips pass every 5 seconds with a rotational speed of 3000 rpm.
You need to check the clearance between the tips. If you can force rotate them as you said until the tips are opposite, then rotate both to check the clearance of the opposite set. Clearance should be the same. The only reason that the tips would strike would be a deformity or damage to deck or shafts. If a shaft was bent, one tip might be too close when it passes the tips of the other blade. If the actual deck metal was bent by the collision, the shaft housing might be tilted inwards. It's possible that a crack has opened somewhere around the shaft housing where it is bolted to the deck, and under drive pressure the housing is pulling inwards. Check that all deck shaft housing are fully bolted down, grab the blade at either end and twist it vertically, while perpendicular to the tractor, to see if it distorts on the deck
Something is causing the blades to strike, and the frequency is consistent with the slight difference in blade speed which is a feature of non synchronous decks.

Absolutely cracking advice and information.

This thread is a life saver.

Rotating the blades I noticed one was further from the edge of the deck and when rotated again would get closer to the deck. I knew then the shaft was slightly bent causing it to strike the other blade on occasion.

I was able to put a pipe over the shaft and bend it back slightly straighter. (Still not perfect but pretty good) put it all back together and not striking anymore.

Replacing the shaft is a deck off job I take it?

Thanks again for your help.

BowWow · 07-08-2020 3:29pm

BowWow wrote: »

My Mountfield SP530 is about to give up the ghost. Doesn't owe me anything, probably have it 15 years. Replaced blades and a few other bits over the years, but engine is now bad and deck is rusting.
Have about 400 square metres of lawn.
Option 1 - Should I just go to B&Q and buy the modern version of an SP530?
Option 2 - Saw a couple of machines in Lidl today. Both Gardenpro Powerplus, one with a 125cc engine and 460mm cutting width, the other with a 140cc engine and 510mm cutting width. Both B&G engines and self propelled. Second one looks like the same spec as the existing Mountfield.

Doing a bit of research in shops.
Woodies have a Pro-Lawn, 51cm cutting width, Hyundai engine, self-propelled, electric starter for €320. Seems an excellent price for that spec. Anyone have any experience of this model?

deezell · 08-08-2020 6:34am

angrybeaver wrote: »

Absolutely cracking advice and information.

........Replacing the shaft is a deck off job I take it?

Thanks again for your help.

It's not a huge job. It could be done in situ once you remove top pulleys and tensionerframe if present. The shaft carrier is just bolted to the deck, but I'm surprised it bent so easily, more surprised you could straighten it in place, but then again, it's not manufactured to commercial levels of strength, a really tough shaft might have cracked the casing, so that's a positive. It might re-bend more easily if it's struck again, but you're fine for now, you can browse the parts and see what a replacement will cost, not a lot.

tombrown · 09-08-2020 2:47pm

I have a Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro ride on mower.

Yesterday I was using it to try & cut long grass ... way too long, as I found out. Lazy bugger should have used the strimmer first...

Anyway, after about the 4th time of unblocking the chute, I decided it wasn't an option. But when i went to start up the mower to drive it back to the shed, it wouldn't start - all I get is a high pitch whine & nothing turns.

That's something I've had before, but normally rolling the mower forward a few inches & trying again fixes it... but not this time. I checked the battery & it is fine, the blades appear to move freely, so they are not stuck.

I'm hoping to avoid a visit to the shop, if at all possible. Any ideas of what I can check for?

Bedouin79 · 09-08-2020 6:23pm

Curious to people’s opinions on weibang lawnmowers

garv123 · 09-08-2020 6:47pm

deezell wrote: »

Very strange that both wheels are locked to the shaft. They should turn forward freely even with the belt engaged with the engine not running. Heres a link to an exploded view. You can see the rachet pinions on either end of the drive shaft, and the rachet pin. It's not difficult to examine this, wheels are easily removed.

https://ersatzteil-shop24.de/bilder/zeichnungen/ggp_o_st/2013-2016/IPL_Castelgarden_XS_55_BVWE4_294557523-C16_16_EN.pdf

The only thing that could lock the freewheel would be if the rachet pins (30) on page 2 were rusted into their holes on the transmission shaft (21). These pins need to slide up and down in the shaft hole when the pinion gear is overrunning the shaft, otherwise they will stick
against the inner rachet profile on the pinions.

Forgot to reply, thanks, you were spot on with the pins sticking. All they needed was a clean and put back in and all is good again.

deezell · 09-08-2020 6:50pm

tombrown wrote: »

I have a Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro ride on mower.

Yesterday I was using it to try & cut long grass ... way too long, as I found out. Lazy bugger should have used the strimmer first...

Anyway, after about the 4th time of unblocking the chute, I decided it wasn't an option. But when i went to start up the mower to drive it back to the shed, it wouldn't start - all I get is a high pitch whine & nothing turns.

That's something I've had before, but normally rolling the mower forward a few inches & trying again fixes it... but not this time. I checked the battery & it is fine, the blades appear to move freely, so they are not stuck.

I'm hoping to avoid a visit to the shop, if at all possible. Any ideas of what I can check for?

Sounds like the stater bendix gear is not engaging the engine ring gear, so the motor is just spinning. Is the whine a motor spinning sound? Or is it more like a strained sound of a stalled motor which can't turn? Does it make a click or a slight clunk from the starter when you turn the key? If the motor is spinning, the bendix gear teeth might be stripped, they wear over time. Fiddly repair, but a new starter not required.
If on the other hand, the motor is stalling, this can be caused by a weak battery, or poor contacts in the electrical circuit. Try lifting the bonnet, and rotating the engine by hand, press your hands on the top filter grille and give it a quarter turn past the tightest point, then try the starter.
Sometimes a loose battery negative connection at the battery or on the chassis will cause a whistle from the controller when you attempt to start. Check battery negative at the battery end and to the mower chassis.

tombrown · 09-08-2020 8:07pm

deezell wrote: »

Sounds like the stater bendix gear is not engaging the engine ring gear, so the motor is just spinning. Is the whine a motor spinning sound? Or is it more like a strained sound of a stalled motor which can't turn? Does it make a click or a slight clunk from the starter when you turn the key? If the motor is spinning, the bendix gear teeth might be stripped, they wear over time. Fiddly repair, but a new starter not required.
If on the other hand, the motor is stalling, this can be caused by a weak battery, or poor contacts in the electrical circuit. Try lifting the bonnet, and rotating the engine by hand, press your hands on the top filter grille and give it a quarter turn past the tightest point, then try the starter.
Sometimes a loose battery negative connection at the battery or on the chassis will cause a whistle from the controller when you attempt to start. Check battery negative at the battery end and to the mower chassis.

Its not turning at all. I cant turn the engine - its like it has seized up. I checked my oil levels & they are fine. Is that the motor completely fecked?

deezell · 09-08-2020 8:29pm

tombrown wrote: »

Its not turning at all. I cant turn the engine - its like it has seized up. I checked my oil levels & they are fine. Is that the motor completely fecked?

Ah, long grass wrapped around the engine pulley underneath.

tombrown · 09-08-2020 9:22pm

deezell wrote: »

Ah, long grass wrapped around the engine pulley underneath.

Thank you.

I really hope that is it, as I can fix it myself. I'm home alone this weekend, so cant tip the mower up to check (it needs two of us to do that), but will do so tomorrow evening

Dubron · 13-08-2020 4:34pm

Hello All

I have around 1000m2 of a new garden to look after and not a huge amount of money to spend on a lawnmower right now. I'm looking at the two below to so me for a year or two before selling on and going ride-on or robot. Which would be the better buy for reliability, access to parts etc? They're both pretty much the same price.

https://www.macblair.com/landscaping-garden/garden-equipment/lawn-mowers/al-ko-easy-163cc-4in1-self-propelled-petrol-lawnmower-510mm.html

https://www.einhell.co.uk/shop/en-uk/gc-pm-56-s-hw.html

The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

Comments