thos wrote: » Mower sold this morning, 1200 quid, first to see bought, 3 calls on it, ad wasn't up 24hrs. Time to go shopping. The Stihl looks well, can't seem to find a dealer nearby - any suggestions for North County Dublin? Any comments on Husqvarna equivalent - TC 242T or similar?
GinSoaked wrote: » Dealers will sell what they can make the most money on regardless of quality. If Husqvarna machines don't have a big margin are difficult to source or have poor credit deals then the dealer isn't going to want to sell them as much as a machine with a big profit margin that they can get in quantity and don't need to pay for for 6 months.
The Nal wrote: » Anyone know where I'd get a spare grass catcher for this puppy? Pro Lawn 42cm 139cc Hyundai Push Petrol Lawnmowerhttps://www.woodies.ie/pro-lawn-42cm-139cc-hyundai-push-petrol-lawnmower-1153278
garv123 wrote: » Quick question.https://www.castelgarden.com/int/294557523-c16-xs-55-bve.html I have the above mower, all going well until one stick too many broke the blade adaptor. Anyways a friend fixed that and serviced it and adjusted cables. One issue we've noticed is that its difficult to turn, both rear wheels are turning at the same speed, even when the mower is off. Feels like diff lock in a 4x4. I don't think it was like this before, or was it and I'm losing the plot? Anyone any suggestions? Seems to be plenty slack on all the cables.
BowWow wrote: » My Mountfield SP530 is about to give up the ghost. Doesn't owe me anything, probably have it 15 years. Replaced blades and a few other bits over the years, but engine is now bad and deck is rusting. Have about 400 square metres of lawn. Option 1 - Should I just go to B&Q and buy the modern version of an SP530? Option 2 - Saw a couple of machines in Lidl today. Both Gardenpro Powerplus, one with a 125cc engine and 460mm cutting width, the other with a 140cc engine and 510mm cutting width. Both B&G engines and self propelled. Second one looks like the same spec as the existing Mountfield. Any thoughts? Thanks.
hdl wrote: » Looking for some advice on an electric lawnmower for an older relative, but it's been years since I purchased one myself, so if anyone can help make the decision I'd be very grateful. He was looking at this Flymo and this Spear and Jackson, and I have to admit I've never heard of that brand before. It's for a decent sized garden in an estate, detached house, so garden on 3 sides. Advice and opinions appreciated, thanks.
deezell wrote: » Spear & Jackson are a long established respected brand, now a globalised brand vehicle, but once part of the British indigenous industrial complex in Sheffield when Britain used to actually make stuff other than kebabs, larger and online gambling sites. I digress. There's little to chose at first look, the S&J is a cm wider cut and a 100w more powereful, not things you'd notice much. Much more important is it's higher cut setting, at 7.5cm, over the Flymo 6cm. This could be important when tackling a lawn which has grown too high. Also in it's favour is the 3 year warranty over the 1 year of the Flymo, in the unlikely event of the motor going pear shaped in short time. The above issues may never happen, but there's no getting away from the one big difference in the Flymo's favour, it's weight. At only 11kg v the 18.5kg of the Spear, it's always going to be an easier lug around the garden, especially as it's a push mower, with a cable to consider, and the operator is elderly, not to say that they might be more sprightly and agile than yourself. The 68% heavier S&J implies more rugged construction, so will probably take more abuse in the long run, which might be useful if the mowing was being done by a turbo driven teenage volunteer in a hurry to be, well, a teenager I suppose. They are both the same price, so more bang for your buck with the heavier machine, but the Flymo might be better choice despite all that.
deezell wrote: » Unlike a ride on mower, a powered walk behind does not have a differential axle. The single drive shaft is coupled to both wheels by pinion gears inside the wheel rim, but via a freewheel mechanism, which allow the outer wheel on a turn to rotate faster than the shaft driven inner wheel. If both freewheels jammed or seized, the mower would behave as if a diff lock was on and would be difficult to turn. If only one freewheel is stuck, the mower will also have difficulty turning in the opposite direction to the side of the stuck wheel, as it won't 'overrun' the slower rotation of the driven inner wheel. To test, do the following. On a hard surface, engine off, engage the drive and push the mower forward. Both rear wheels should rotate freely. If you feel pressure when you engage the drive, turn to left and right to see which wheel is not overrunning the drive shaft, which is static if engaged with the engine off. The overrun or freewheel mechanism is normally a simple sliding plate through the shaft which engages with a rachet profile on the inside of the wheel pinion. The pinions are left and right hand side. If you've had the wheels off and don't put these and the engaging plate back in correctly, they could be locked.
garv123 wrote: » Thanks Deezell, Did the test with the mower on a hard surface and both wheels locked up solid. Didn't get to investigate more, but the only thing that was off during during the service was the belt, none of the wheels.
angrybeaver wrote: » Hi looking for some advice. I’ve a castlegarden 13.5 Hp 90cm. All running fine I hit a slight stone cutting yesterday and ever since every few minutes when cutting I hear a bang as if the blades are hitting each other or the sides. Metal on metal. When I turn the mower over the blades don’t touch the sides or each other when rotated. Any advice to rectify? Thanks
Bedouin79 wrote: » Great thread Guys, looking for advice/recommendations on either a 3 and 1 mower or a dedicated mulcher. Have a new lawn just under 4000m2 in one piece. I’ve a robot to do most of it, looking for a walk behind mower for the awkward areas and general tidying up. Any advice recommendations appreciated.
c.p.w.g.w wrote: » Need a new lawn mower, my front & back garden is at most 30m2...but the grass grows so fast, think previous owner must have used some lawn feed or something... I would like a rechargeable mower, is there any such mowers out there for a reasonable price?
deezell wrote: » The blades are losing synchronisation. It's likely the blade which struck the stone sheared the pins on the blade holder, leaving the blade retained only by the centre bolt, allowing the blade to slip position on the shaft. Remove the blade and inspect the blade holder. It's also possible the timing belt may have some damaged teeth, causing it to jump position on the sprocket, thus going in and out of timing.
ipitydafool wrote: » Hi, Has anyone ever bought a ride on lawn mower or indeed any garden equipment off AgriEuro website? They have a machine I like but havent used them before, they seem to get good trustpilot scores, just wondering if any boardsies in here have used them Cheers
deezell wrote: » As it's a non synchronous deck, the blades don't overlap, they are always a few cm apart at the tips. In order to avoid a small unmown strip down the middle, the deck is offset, with one blade slightly ahead of the other then moved inwards so that they effectlively overlap without touching.These blades will move at slightly different speeds, with the tips coming together every so often but never touching. The belt will be tight enough to drive the blades but will not have any effect on positioning of the blades, as inevitably they will rotate at different rates, even a difference of only 0.1% will have the blade tips pass every 5 seconds with a rotational speed of 3000 rpm. You need to check the clearance between the tips. If you can force rotate them as you said until the tips are opposite, then rotate both to check the clearance of the opposite set. Clearance should be the same. The only reason that the tips would strike would be a deformity or damage to deck or shafts. If a shaft was bent, one tip might be too close when it passes the tips of the other blade. If the actual deck metal was bent by the collision, the shaft housing might be tilted inwards. It's possible that a crack has opened somewhere around the shaft housing where it is bolted to the deck, and under drive pressure the housing is pulling inwards. Check that all deck shaft housing are fully bolted down, grab the blade at either end and twist it vertically, while perpendicular to the tractor, to see if it distorts on the deck Something is causing the blades to strike, and the frequency is consistent with the slight difference in blade speed which is a feature of non synchronous decks.
