Old Tool Restoration

imakebiodiesel · 04-04-2016 10:21am #1

No 7s are very scarce and good ones even more so. If you are going to look at one for sale bring a 1m steel rule and check the sole for straightness and wind. If its distorted as many Stanleys are they are not much use.. Generally Records are better and Faithfuls Anants and other copies are crap. Make sure there is a decent amount of blade left, a new Stanley replacement blade will cost you €20.
Good luck
http://www.adverts.ie/search/user-727864

Sparks · 04-04-2016 4:27pm

Records are what I have for my 4, 4 1/2 and 5 1/2; I don't particularly have any lust for the name of the thing

(and I wound up with both the 4 and 4 1/2 because they came off ebay in a job lot; one or the other would have done me).
Though I'd heard that faithfuls weren't bad for cheap tools, as opposed to say, silverlines.

Basically, I have a shopping list - a jointer plane, a router plane and a filister plane (though I'm being specific with that one, it's a record 778 I was looking out for). I could find them on ebay fast enough if money was no object

But are those things that show up in car boots here on a regularish basis and would I be better off looking there than ebay?

imakebiodiesel · 04-04-2016 5:53pm

Dont start me about silverline they really are rubbish.
These was not much to choose between Record and Stanley up to about 1950, after that the quality of Stanley planes steadily declined because they tried to compete with cheap imports. Record just stayed much the same. Until the 90s when Irwin took it over. Today , despite their high price, Records range of planes are about on a par with Silverline, made in the far east , no quality control to speak of, horrible machining.
If I was buying a 7 or 8 Id look for a Record with the earlier frog shape. You can look it up online, there are a couple of websites dedicated to Record plane history. A full length cast crucible steel blade would be a bonus.
The 078 or 778 is definitely the best rebate plane going, the smaller ones like the Stanley 93 are really only good for cleaning up machine made rebates, not making them from scratch. The longer fence with two slide bars was a significant improvement over the 078 if you regularly use the fence. The old wooden rebate planes work really well and have the big advantage of a skewed blade, you can pick one up in good condition for buttons. The moving fillister types have depth stop, grain cutter and fence but they tend to be sought after by collectors because of the nice brass fittings.
http://www.adverts.ie/search/user-727864

Calahonda52 · 06-04-2016 9:53am

rather than start a new thread, I have two No 4 Stanley planes, one with wooden handles in original box, the other looks like bakelite handles, which I want to clean up. The base plates have a little paint and some rust on them.
Whats the way to clean the baseplates without doing any damage.
Thanks

imakebiodiesel · 06-04-2016 9:20pm

I strip the plane down to its parts and clean each part. Paint splatter is best scraped off with a wooden stick sharpened like a chisel, a metal scraper will damage the enamel. Fine wire wool soaked in oil is good for cleaning rust, I would avoid trying to repaint the body, it never looks good.
The sole and sides should be cleaned up by rubbing on a sheet of wet and dry sand paper taped to a sheet of glass. this will also show up any bumps or hollows. Clean the blade and cap iron with fine wire wool. The bakelite handles are fine and belong to that era. tthey are easy to clean with wire wool. You can get wooden replacements if you really dont like the bakelite.

magicbastarder · 08-04-2016 9:40am

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Whats the way to clean the baseplates without doing any damage.
Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYyV6IUpsYk

Calahonda52 · 08-04-2016 5:12pm

Thanks for the link, fascinating, gives a new meaning to pumping iron!

Sparks · 08-04-2016 5:20pm

Works well too, my 4 and 4 1/2 both came up very nicely from rust to shine that way.

I'm going to try the vinegar & salt bath method on the "new" 5 1/2 this weekend first though, that seems to get pretty solid results. And white vinegar's cheap - asia market sell five litre cans of the stuff for €3.50 at the moment.

my3cents · 08-04-2016 6:24pm

Sparks wrote: »

Works well too, my 4 and 4 1/2 both came up very nicely from rust to shine that way.

I'm going to try the vinegar & salt bath method on the "new" 5 1/2 this weekend first though, that seems to get pretty solid results. And white vinegar's cheap - asia market sell five litre cans of the stuff for €3.50 at the moment.

All you need is the vingar the rest of the stuff is pointless and a waste of time effort and money. In fact I wouldn't even use that method on a plane because by the time you have trued all the machined faces up there aren't many places rust can be hiding.

Still a great way of cleaning up rusty car parts.

Sparks · 08-04-2016 9:41pm

Oh, there were places for rust to hide on this one. I think a good portion of the weight was vintage imported pre-WW2 english sawdust and spiders...

Now all brushed down and disassembled and with the ferrous bits in a bath of vinegar until Sunday...

my3cents · 08-04-2016 10:33pm

Thats quite a tidy looking plane the only serious rust I see there is on the blade and cap iron (chip breaker).

I learnt a long time ago that you can spend far too much time playing with tools and not enough making things and I still spend far too much playing with tools.

The blade only needs polishing on the back and sharpening and the cap iron only needs the edge behind the chip breaker truing up.

I'd just run an air line at high pressure over to inside body to clean it up and true up the sole and sides. Obviously do the frog and its bearing points along with adjusting it while you are at it.

Sparks · 08-04-2016 11:24pm

Yeah, but then I'd have to buy an air line.

And an air compressor to go on the other end of it would be handy too I suppose.

And if I was buying those, I might as well get a brad nailer to help put up the OSB sheeting to line the shed and why not an impact wrench while I was at it and next thing you know my bank account will be empty and my shed will be full and I still won't have a workbench to work at

And there was some surface rust on... well, every surface actually, both exposed and in the various nooks and crannies under the frog and around the body. No pitting that I could see, but every screw's thread was gunked up with the stuff, and it generally looks a mess. I couldn't use it in that condition, it'd annoy me to death to have a tool that looked that mucky. I'll clean it up, true up the faces, sharpen the blade, make sure the cap iron's flat to the blade, scrape the remains of the finish off the handles and give them a coat of boiled linseed oil. It'll make for a nice relaxing sunday

Calahonda52 · 09-04-2016 10:10am

For what it is worth,
I have picked up the airline etc etc over the years in Lidl and then last year I bought a Bambi compressor in the UK which is very silent
similar to this
http://www.graphicair.co.uk/products/Bambi-BB15V-Silent-Compressor.html

While it may not power a 90mm capacity nail gun, it does what I want and I can run it anytime of day or night and I can barely hear it.

It is also very portable.

The ones sold in Lidl and Aldi, being consumer items don't need a dBa rating, however I do know they will wake the dead.

Sparks · 09-04-2016 12:24pm

Calahonda, she who must be obeyed says you're to stop giving me ideas...

imakebiodiesel · 09-04-2016 3:36pm

That looks like a really nice no 5.1/2. If you post some picture of the frog with the blade and lever cap removed I can date it for you. I looks like late 1940s to late 1950s. If you clean up the upper part of the blade it will reveal the type of blade. It might have a blade that says "Best Crucible Cast Tungsten Steel". If so you are in luck. Record stopped making Cast Steel around 1950 and switched to a continuous steel process to reduce costs. Their cast steel blades are as good as any of the up market blades from Hock , Lie Neilsen or Quangsheng.

Calahonda52 · 09-04-2016 5:13pm

Sparks wrote: »

Calahonda, she who must be obeyed says you're to stop giving me ideas...

Tell her the good thing about this multi annual piece-meal approach is that it is likely that you will get double up on certain items if you don't keep track: I ended up with two lots of the nozzles and tyre pressure gauge set.....:)

Sparks · 09-04-2016 7:29pm

imakebiodiesel wrote: »

That looks like a really nice no 5.1/2.

I have high hopes for it allright, and there's something oddly satisfying about getting a tool in that condition and cleaning it up.

If you post some picture of the frog with the blade and lever cap removed I can date it for you.

Here you go, after the imported vintage sawdust'n'spiderlegs were brushed off with a soft brush but before the vinegar bath that it's still bubbling away in.

If you clean up the upper part of the blade it will reveal the type of blade. It might have a blade that says "Best Crucible Cast Tungsten Steel". If so you are in luck. Record stopped making Cast Steel around 1950 and switched to a continuous steel process to reduce costs. Their cast steel blades are as good as any of the up market blades from Hock , Lie Neilsen or Quangsheng.

Couldn't see a darn thing on it through the rust, we'll have to hope the vinegar works as well as advertised, but I suspect I'm not that lucky

my3cents · 09-04-2016 8:33pm

If the blade really is that rusty I'm sure you know its useless if you can't polish all the pitted areas out of the flat side of it?

imakebiodiesel · 09-04-2016 8:44pm

The ogee shaped frog first appeared in 1959 so your plane is sometime after that but before 1969. Its unlikely to have a cast steel blade but Record blades, even after the changeover, were still superior to most other plane blades. Be careful of the vinegar treatment, Rinse the plane repeatedly and thoroughly with a mild alkali solution to make sure that no acid has crept under the enamel. As my3cents stated correctly its the bottom of the blade ( and the top of the frog) that has to be clean and flat if you are to avoid chatter when using the plane, although I have to agree if your going to clean up the plane you may as well clean all of it.

imakebiodiesel · 09-04-2016 8:49pm

Pitted rust will make a blade useless but only down at the business end. which is normally covered by the lever cap and the cap iron, its rarely badly rusted there. Pitted rust at the top does not matter. if the worst comes to the worst you can buy a new blade. i would recommend a Stanley rather than a new Record for reasons stated earlier.

Sparks · 09-04-2016 10:27pm

Well, the good news is that the business end of the blade has only very light surface rust and no pitting; the less great news is that the other end is, well, you can see how rusty it is in the photos. I took an early peek this evening and had a go with some 80 grit paper to see if I could find any markings on the other end, but apart from "Made in England", the other engraving is so faint as to be very hard to read. I think the line above "Made in England" starts with Tungsten and ends with Vanadium, but it's very very faint.

Oh, and the effect of the vinegar and salt on the rust is still fun to see, even when you know what's coming

imakebiodiesel · 10-04-2016 1:00pm

Thats the later blade, not the cast steel one. Vanadium was added to the steel alloy to make it more hardenable. The original cast steel was difficult to harden and had to be quenched in cold water. This process resulted in some blades distorting and being rejected Along with the small batch size this made cast steel very expensive. The new steel was made in a larger continuous process that allowed the blades to be hardened by quenching in oil with fewer rejects.
Interestingly Quansheng have revived the process of making water quench steel for their best plane irons.
Nevertheless the later Record blade is still a very good blade and will be perfectly serviceable.

Sparks · 10-04-2016 3:58pm

Didn't come out too badly. It could stand some shellac for the handle and tote, there's just some boiled linseed oil on it at the moment, and I've a weekend of blade sharpening ahead of me next weekend, but I'm happy enough with that for now.

And I managed to find a 778 for decent money on ebay so that's not a terrible weekend all told.

imakebiodiesel · 10-04-2016 4:59pm

Lovely job, I think your level of restoration is just right, you often see tools on Ebay that have been buffed and polished and painted to look like new. I think that looks sad, the patina of 50 or 60 years scrubbed away. Part of the reason I like old tools is the idea that someone, probably a better woodworker that me, has used and cared for that tool and I might pass it on to a younger man( or woman) when Im finished with it.
The other reason is they are wonderful tools made in a era when quality wasnt just a marketing term.
I wouldnt bother with the shellac, an oil finish is much more pleasant to handle and will preserve the handles.

imakebiodiesel · 10-04-2016 6:15pm

This is the first time Ive uploaded an image to the forum so im not sure it will worK. Here is the cast steel blade by Record.
These are worth keeping an eye out for in car boot sales, provided they are full length they are a great upgrade over the normal blade without breaking the bank.
http://s871.photobucket.com/user/imakebiodiesel/media/stickers%20004_zpstbvxgerd.jpg.html

imakebiodiesel · 10-04-2016 6:25pm

It worked! Here is another blade worth finding and most junk/antique dealers dont know what they are worth.
Its the Stanley Sweetheart blade. Note the little heart logo and the initials SW.
These were made between 1915 and 1935 in USA to In honour of James Hart, the chairman of Stanley tools who died in 1915. These are considered the best plane irons ever made by Stanley, and are certainly better than anything they make today.
http://s871.photobucket.com/user/imakebiodiesel/media/stickers%20007_zpskgfdwvwp.jpg.html

This tread has got a bit off topic of tool suppliers, what about a topic dedicated to restoring old tools?
http://www.adverts.ie/search/user-727864

Collibosher · 10-04-2016 11:37pm

On the subject of plane restoration projects, I picked up this Record 0220 at a market for 3 euro a while back. It looks worse in the photo than it actually is, mostly light surface rust and dust.

Will be my first project, so midway through the Paul Sellers video linked to above.

imakebiodiesel · 11-04-2016 11:43am

The 220 is a good all round block plane and worth a bit of effort to make it usable. However we are getting even further off topic of tool suppliers so I think we should jump before we are pushed.
I will open a new thread called "Old Tool Restoration" and if you would repost your picture to it we can get down to the nitty gritty.

imakebiodiesel · 11-04-2016 12:15pm

This thread is a continuation of a subject started in the Tool Suppliers thread, and is dedicated to restoring classic tools like Stanley and Record planes, cast steel chisels etc.
modsnip
You might be interested to see the planes that I use my self, Ironically I dont use Stanley or Record planes
These are my 18th century infill planes,
A Mathieson coffin shaped steel smoothing plane with rosewood infill and a Ward and Payne iron.
And an early Speirs Panel plane with dovetailed steel body, beech infill and a Ward and Payne Iron.

I love the mass of these planes, once you set it in motion its weight will carry it through any knots or twisty grain. The heavy forged cast steel blades are nearly 6mm thick at the business end so chatter just dosent happen. The re is no adjustment on these planes you set the blade with a mallet or small hammer which sounds like a hassle but it isnt really, the last time I had to adjust the smoother was over 2 years ago.
Collectors have made these planes very expensive if they are in mint condition but its still possible to pick up damaged or incomplete ones cheaply and restore then to their former glory.
I have made new infill on both these planes and done some brazing to the screw adjustment of the smoother.
snip

Calahonda52 · 11-04-2016 12:18pm

Perhaps Kadman might move the restoration posts from here to your new one so as the intel is not lost

imakebiodiesel · 11-04-2016 12:35pm

Good Idea, Ill ask him.

..Brian.. · 11-04-2016 11:05pm

Great thread. My workshop (large uninsulated cavity block garage) gets very cold and damp so the condensation that builds up on my tools is a nightmare for creating rust. I'm currently building a wall hanging tool cabinet for them all with the hope being that it will keep the condensation off them. Once that's complete, I will be cleaning up and restoring about 5 planes, including a recently acquired No.7 that I haven't touched at all yet. It has a load of surface rust on it but should clean up nicely.

To clean them up I plan just just use wet and dry paper and a load of elbow grease. Will also flatten the soles using the same wet and dry stuck to a 10mm thick piece of glass shelf from a glass display stand. The irons will be sorted out using my cheapo Amtech diamond plates (really need to get a nice set of diamond plates!) and a strop.

Will post some before and after pics ..... if they turn out well! :P

magicbastarder · 12-04-2016 12:52pm

might be an idea to merge this with the other 'old tool restoration' thread?

on the topic, i've a tenon saw which is probably at least 40 years old at home. rather than me making a dud job of sharpening it, is there anywhere in dublin (city centre or northside) which would offer sharpening services?

imakebiodiesel · 12-04-2016 1:48pm

The sheet of plate glass is absolutely essential for renovating plane bodies. I see in Paul Sellers video he has a large precision machined steel plate. I dont think this is necessary and offers no advantage over plate glass except that it wont break if you drop it. The longer the piece of glass the better, I would go for 24 inches or longer if you intend to work on no 7 and 8s. About 8 inches wide is good so that you can tape the 6 inch rolls of sandpaper to it. 8 or 10mm plate is best and glaziers will sometimes have offcuts they will let you have . Either have the glazier buff the edges smooth or do it yourself with a coarse diamond sharpening stone.

I sent Kadman a message yesterday and I see the posts from Tool Suppliers have been removed so hopefully they will appear here on this thread soon.

Sparks · 12-04-2016 1:49pm

I think Sellers has a block of granite and some tempered glass, did I miss the video with the steel plate?

imakebiodiesel · 12-04-2016 2:34pm

Collibosher wrote: »

On the subject of plane restoration projects, I picked up this Record 0220 at a market for 3 euro a while back. It looks worse in the photo than it actually is, mostly light surface rust and dust.

Will be my first project, so midway through the Paul Sellers video linked to above.

I notice that Paul Sellers uses a large machined steel plate to flatten and clean his planes, I dont think that is necessary, a piece of heavy plate glass is just a good. Start with the ordinary dry sandpaper you can buy in rolls from hardware shops. 120 grit is a good general purpose cleaning paper and will quickly reveal if there are any high or low spots. When the whole surface is cleaned switch to 240 and then move up to very fine wet and dry to finish off. Sometimes cleaning will reveal faults like pitting and cracks. i would not be too concerned about a small amount of pitting provided its not around the mouth. Cracks are something else. Large cracks will probably get worse over time so my advice is to go ahead and use the plane and in the meantime look out on Ebay for a replacement body, they do turn up and are usually reasonably cheap. Ratherthan make this post too long Ill leave it there and when you get the body cleaned we can look at the workings and the blade.

imakebiodiesel · 12-04-2016 6:31pm

I mistook the block of granite for metal.

Calahonda52 · 12-04-2016 7:09pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

might be an idea to merge this with the other 'old tool restoration' thread?

on the topic, i've a tenon saw which is probably at least 40 years old at home. rather than me making a dud job of sharpening it, is there anywhere in dublin (city centre or northside) which would offer sharpening services?

we are trying to get the relevant posts moved over here..:)
re saw
http://www.citysawservices.com/index.php
its easy to miss in heavy traffic
or
http://www.carbide.ie in Coolock

Call both to make sure they will do it...

jack of all · 12-04-2016 9:29pm

Thanks for starting this thread OP; I've often admired the fine tools you have for sale on Adverts, if you weren't so far from me I'd be a customer for sure! I love buying, restoring and using old tools myself, it's very satisfying to find an old piece of "junk" and restore it to working condition.

Sparks · 12-04-2016 9:46pm

...and it seems I have a record no. 7 to tidy up a little after today. Sorted

My entire shopping list of tools is almost done now, if I could find a nice 71 that would be all the nice-to-haves as well (and by a sequence of weird and honestly unplanned coincidences, everything I've gotten so far has been by record, so I might as well get a record 071 I suppose just to be precious about it). Time to start thinking about ordering lumber and actually using these things now

imakebiodiesel · 13-04-2016 11:43am

Good 71 routers can be expensive, but if you can find one cheaply with the cutters missing it quite easy to make cutters from large allen keys.You will need a vice to hold the allen key in , a handgrinder, a plumbers blowtorch and some waste oil. Before you start down load images of the real cutters so that you have a good idea of the angles. use a cutting disc and then a grinding disc to replicate the shape of the original cutter. When you are happy with the shape, heat the tip of the blade to a dull red heat and then drop it into a small can of waste oil. Do this in a well ventilated area and place a lid over the can to contain the smoke and prevent the oil catching fire. When the cutter has cooled hone and strop it as normal.
With a bit of practice you could even make make curved cutters for creating flutes.

my3cents · 14-04-2016 9:57am

imakebiodiesel wrote: »

Good 71 routers can be expensive, but if you can find one cheaply with the cutters missing it quite easy to make cutters from large allen keys.You will need a vice to hold the allen key in , a handgrinder, a plumbers blowtorch and some waste oil. Before you start down load images of the real cutters so that you have a good idea of the angles. use a cutting disc and then a grinding disc to replicate the shape of the original cutter. When you are happy with the shape, heat the tip of the blade to a dull red heat and then drop it into a small can of waste oil. Do this in a well ventilated area and place a lid over the can to contain the smoke and prevent the oil catching fire. When the cutter has cooled hone and strop it as normal.
With a bit of practice you could even make make curved cutters for creating flutes.

How times have changed, I picked up an old Stanley 71 in about 1980 and it was missing a couple of bits so I phoned Stanley and they posted out all the bits I needed for free :eek:

imakebiodiesel · 14-04-2016 4:26pm

my3cents wrote: »

How times have changed, I picked up an old Stanley 71 in about 1980 and it was missing a couple of bits so I phoned Stanley and they posted out all the bits I needed for free :eek:

Those were the days.
Now companies put you on hold and then charge you for the 20 minutes it took to tell you its out of stock.

imakebiodiesel · 17-04-2016 6:23pm

Now this will be a challenge. Ive been after one of these for years, a combination drawknife and hollowing knife. Bought it on Ebay for 20 quid, its heavily rusted, the handles are split and woodwormed and who knows what horrors lurk behind that bandage. Ill post pics of it when Ive finished.

my3cents · 17-04-2016 6:40pm

imakebiodiesel wrote: »

Now this will be a challenge. Ive been after one of these for years, a combination drawknife and hollowing knife. Bought it on Ebay for 20 quid, its heavily rusted, the handles are split and woodwormed and who knows what horrors lurk behind that bandage. Ill post pics of it when Ive finished.

Are you sure its a hollowing knife? I'll take a look at some old books later as I've half an idea there is a particular purpose to that tool?

imakebiodiesel · 17-04-2016 8:01pm

Im pretty sure its a hollowing knife, I ve used one like it for about 20 years, mine has the curved part but does not have the two flat blades to either side. I use it for hollowing the inside of staves in coopering work. Interestingly the bandage didnt hide any nasty suprises. I have a theory that the knife had been used as an improvised Jigger knife and the bandage served as a temporary handle. Look up images of a jigger knife to see what i mean. Ive turned two new handles for it from some Spanish chestnut and Ill fit them when Ive cleaned up the blade.

my3cents · 18-04-2016 12:43am

Couldn't find anything but still have a few places to look. Might have been one that someone showed me I'm thinking of or in a auction catalog I no longer have.

tbh the tool doesn't make any sense to me? A lot of effort to make it when it could be made much more easily without the flat part of the blade unless its a plain draw knife that has been modified? Interesting if the makers mark, if there is one, is on the curve.

Which side of the curve is the blade sharpened? Inside or outside? Looks like inside?

Also which side is the makers mark if there is one? Interesting if its on the curve but doubt that.

Nearest I could find was this http://www.greatplanestrading.com/HnH-10/HtH_2010.html see photo for 002, sort of in the area of use I was expecting (I was thinking wheelwright) but that one looks like its made for doing an outer edge and may not be an inshave at all (sharpened on the outside of the curve when it would be much easier to sharpen on the inside unless there is a good reason not to).

imakebiodiesel · 18-04-2016 7:57pm

Well I spent a pleasant Sunday working on this tool and it went pretty well. Its a blacksmith made tool so no makers mark. Its lamininated with a thin layer of hard carbon steel firewelded onto a wrought iron frame. Its well done but not brilliantly so you can see the weld line clearly on the top of the blade. the bevel is on the outside of the curve. I suspect this was a tool made for a country cooper or white cooper. Many of these coopers were journeymen and combining two tool into one would have been an advantage where as it would have made no sense for the cooper employed in a distillery or brewery. I tried it out on some oak staves I have lying around and it cuts very nicely after just one honing. The hollowing part of the knife is tricky to sharpen but works well.
I made new handles, quite different from the originals as I find those fat oval handles a bit uncomfortable.
Over all Im pleased and I may well find it becomes one of my favourite tools.

Sparks · 19-04-2016 1:31pm

My Number 7 just arrived. Pristine condition, far better than I was expecting. A minimal amount of rust on the top of the blade, none on the body, most of the original paint intact, the handles are solid and secure (though the finish is gone, so that's going to be scraped off and replaced with some boiled linseed oil), and the frog looks sound (I haven't fully disassembled it because I'm still in the office

).

Best of all? The blade happily says "best crucible cast tungsten steel"

And all of that for €55 (okay, plus €30 shipping). I think I got a damn good bargain there

my3cents · 19-04-2016 2:26pm

Sparks wrote: »

My Number 7 just arrived. Pristine condition, far better than I was expecting. A minimal amount of rust on the top of the blade, none on the body, most of the original paint intact, the handles are solid and secure (though the finish is gone, so that's going to be scraped off and replaced with some boiled linseed oil), and the frog looks sound (I haven't fully disassembled it because I'm still in the office ).

Best of all? The blade happily says "best crucible cast tungsten steel"

And all of that for €55 (okay, plus €30 shipping). I think I got a damn good bargain there

If you are sticking with Record then you could keep an eye out for a stayset (think thats the trade name) cap iron to go with that blade.

Actually its Stay-Set just looked up the spelling and found a nice Record dating page here. Clifton also do a modern version of the Stay-Set cap iron.

Sparks · 19-04-2016 2:56pm

To be honest, I didn't even want to get a record collection thing going, it pretty much happened by accident (and my 9 1/2 is a stanley so it's not even a collection really

). But I am going to be precious about the last item on my list (the router plane) and try for a record 071 instead of a stanley (hey, might as well).

Also, I saw the stay-set stuff before; I'm sure it works great, but there's just something about having a dirty great "SS" stamped on the front of the thing that gave me a bit of a pause

Old Tool Restoration

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