the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

saccades · 24-10-2019 10:05pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

Buy ground anchor and big bucket or bag and cement mix.

Combine, 20 plus kilos will stop opportunist scroates. Ideally drop the lump in a hole under the shed with a small hole in the floor for the anchor to poke out of.

MediaMan · 03-11-2019 10:41pm

I have Look Keo Classic pedals on my road bike and the one that I clip in and out of at junctions spins much too freely. This makes it hard to clip in to, as it spins like a top when I push off. Aside from clipping in/out with the other foot or buying new pedals, does anyone have any suggestion as to how to restore a bit of sticktion to the pedal to stop it spinning?

(The bike is nearly new so no "new bike" suggestions pls

)

Plastik · 03-11-2019 10:45pm

You can use a spanner, probably a 15 I'd have to check, to unscrew the needle bearing and back the pedal with grease. That'll make it spin a less freely.

LollipopJimmy · 03-11-2019 10:51pm

Trackstand, be grand

CramCycle · 03-11-2019 10:59pm

This will sound sarcastic but it is not, have you tried the other foot. Are look keo not weighted like spd sls?

dahat · 04-11-2019 12:02am

MediaMan wrote: »

I have Look Keo Classic pedals on my road bike and the one that I clip in and out of at junctions spins much too freely. This makes it hard to clip in to, as it spins like a top when I push off. Aside from clipping in/out with the other foot or buying new pedals, does anyone have any suggestion as to how to restore a bit of sticktion to the pedal to stop it spinning?

(The bike is nearly new so no "new bike" suggestions pls )

Pedal bearings are gone, new pedals. The cheaper look pedals don't last anytime. I've 3 sets like so but got used to the set that match the good bike, think of it like a roulette wheel when you try clip in.

magicbastarder · 04-11-2019 12:22am

CramCycle wrote: »

This will sound sarcastic but it is not, have you tried the other foot.

i now have a mental picture of MediaMan trying to get his right foot clipped into the left pedal at lights.

doozerie · 04-11-2019 6:15pm

Altheus wrote: »

Question - I have a Wahoo Kickr, and a Di2 Ultegra bike on it. It seems like no matter what I do, I just can't get the cassette to line up, it's always slipping a little, but never smooth. Any tips on how to get it right? I was thinking it's because it's a SRAM cassette and an Ultegra rear derailleur.

Things I've tried:

1. Setting the cassette size in the e-tube software
2. Microadjustments of the rear derailleur
3. Refitting/sitting the cassette to the Kickr.

It sounds like the spacer(s) behind the cassette differs between your Kickr and the wheel on your bike. Adding or removing a spacer to the Kickr may be the "right" solution, assuming your bike wheel is set up correctly (and vice versa otherwise).

MediaMan · 04-11-2019 7:03pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i now have a mental picture of MediaMan trying to get his right foot clipped into the left pedal at lights.

:pac:
Yeah, and even if I was to try and do it as presumably was intended, it would be nearly as hard, after years of one-sided clipping. Might try it though, to see I could actually re-learn the process.

Trackstanding - despite trying to practice it, I can last a max of 10 seconds

Will have a go at the spanner and grease - I had thought that those pedals couldn't be disassembled, but with enough force anything can be disassembled - right

Basically I have more confidence in my bike maintenance skills than in my bike skills!

Utter Consternation · 06-11-2019 12:59pm

I want to upgrade the brakes on my e-bike. It has mechanical disc brakes.

I want to upgrade them to something like these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Juin-Tech-Hydraulic-Brake-ST1675/dp/B07JNQBV2F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=59032833795&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-vvmy6nV5QIViLTtCh0tagZSEAMYASAAEgIhZ_D_BwE&hvadid=291324278537&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007850&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10863642363365393060&hvtargid=kwd-294731535496&hydadcr=13886_1808768&keywords=juin+tech+r1&qid=1573034371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0NFREc1RzBZQ09DJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTkxNTA3MTFaWTZFV0dGMVZBRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg5MDQ1V1cwQkhRUFZOWFZKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Do i need to take off the stock rotors that are on the bike and replace them with the ones provided with the new brakes? Or can i just swop out the calipers?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 06-11-2019 1:11pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

I want to upgrade the brakes on my e-bike. It has mechanical disc brakes.

I want to upgrade them to something like these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Juin-Tech-Hydraulic-Brake-ST1675/dp/B07JNQBV2F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=59032833795&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-vvmy6nV5QIViLTtCh0tagZSEAMYASAAEgIhZ_D_BwE&hvadid=291324278537&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007850&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10863642363365393060&hvtargid=kwd-294731535496&hydadcr=13886_1808768&keywords=juin+tech+r1&qid=1573034371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0NFREc1RzBZQ09DJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTkxNTA3MTFaWTZFV0dGMVZBRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg5MDQ1V1cwQkhRUFZOWFZKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Do i need to take off the stock rotors that are on the bike and replace them with the ones provided with the new brakes? Or can i just swop out the calipers?

No you also need to change the brake levers to hydraulic and add hydraulic lines for the brake fluid. You also need to ensure that your bike takes the same type brake caliper (flat mount or post mount) and lastly, buy from some of the dedicated online bike stores not a no-name brand from amazon when you will have no technical backup or support and may find it difficult finding replacement pads etc

Utter Consternation · 06-11-2019 1:20pm

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

No you also need to change the brake levers to hydraulic and add hydraulic lines for the brake fluid. You also need to ensure that your bike takes the same type brake caliper (flat mount or post mount) and lastly, buy from some of the dedicated online bike stores not a no-name brand from amazon when you will have no technical backup or support and may find it difficult finding replacement pads etc

Thanks for the reply. I think you can swop them out as they are cable actuated.

I'm told they fit, but i was more worried that taking out the rotor would be a difficult job.

Type 17 · 06-11-2019 1:33pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. I think you can swop them out as they are cable actuated.

I'm told they fit, but i was more worried that taking out the rotor would be a difficult job.

The callipers should fit, unless your bike is particularly old or cheap, with an unusual brake mounting type. You should change the disks, because the old ones will be worn, and it’s better to start with new disks and pads together. It’s not hard to change the discs if you have a T25 Torx bit, assuming that they are six- bolt mounting. If they are Shimano centre-lock, you’ll need a Shimano cassette tool.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 06-11-2019 1:37pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. I think you can swop them out as they are cable actuated.

I'm told they fit, but i was more worried that taking out the rotor would be a difficult job.

Apologies, I didn't look at the details on the add, I just assumed as they were hydraulic, they were full hydraulic and not hybrids.

Removing the rotor is the simplest of the jobs involved.

Utter Consternation · 06-11-2019 1:37pm

Type 17 wrote: »

The callipers should fit, unless your bike is particularly old or cheap, with an unusual brake mounting type. You should change the disks, because the old ones will be worn, and it’s better to start with new disks and pads together. It’s not hard to change the discs if you have a T25 Torx bit, assuming that they are six- bolt mounting. If they are Shimano centre-lock, you’ll need a Shimano cassette tool.

K thanks, they're not Shimano and are six bolt.

The stock ones are 180mm, but the new ones are 160mm. Does that make any difference for the fitting?

Deano12345 · 06-11-2019 5:08pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

K thanks, they're not Shimano and are six bolt.

The stock ones are 180mm, but the new ones are 160mm. Does that make any difference for the fitting?

6 bolt will just be T25, so no problems there.

Normally going up or down a disc size, you will need an adapter, which will change the position of the calliper relative to the disc. Sometimes a bike will come with them, one side of the adapter will be for your current disc size and the other will be a size down (ie 180, would flip to fit 160)

If you don’t have them, they’re cheaply bought online!

I personally had to use them on a fork designed for 140’s when I wanted to use a 160

Weepsie · 06-11-2019 5:57pm

as an FYI, I have those Juin Tech brakes. Cheaper from the edge sports in the uk and I think they come with rotors too.

Type 17 · 06-11-2019 10:01pm

Utter Consternation wrote: »

The stock ones are 180mm, but the new ones are 160mm. Does that make any difference for the fitting?

You should stick with the 180mm size, even if it means buying new 180 discs separately - bigger discs make the brakes more powerful, and if the designers of your (heavier than a normal bike) e-bike chose 180's, then I wouldn't downgrade to 160's. Additionally, if you do downgrade, you'll also have to enter the annoying world of "which adaptors do I need?", to change the position of the callipers for the smaller discs.

Saying that, 160's are by far the most common size, so you won't have trouble swapping or trading them away if required.

Utter Consternation · 07-11-2019 11:26am

Weepsie wrote: »

as an FYI, I have those Juin Tech brakes. Cheaper from the edge sports in the uk and I think they come with rotors too.

Type 17 wrote: »

You should stick with the 180mm size, even if it means buying new 180 discs separately - bigger discs make the brakes more powerful, and if the designers of your (heavier than a normal bike) e-bike chose 180's, then I wouldn't downgrade to 160's. Additionally, if you do downgrade, you'll also have to enter the annoying world of "which adaptors do I need?", to change the position of the callipers for the smaller discs.

Saying that, 160's are by far the most common size, so you won't have trouble swapping or trading them away if required.

Thanks guys. The bike is definitely heavier than normal, the stock mechanical breaks aren't great particularly on a wet morning like today.

That's my Xmas present from herself sorted.

coach22 · 10-11-2019 9:20pm

I have lithium grease and Teflon grease red in colour. Are either of these suitable for use on a headset or do I need to buy another type?

CramCycle · 10-11-2019 11:34pm

coach22 wrote: »

I have lithium grease and Teflon grease red in colour. Are either of these suitable for use on a headset or do I need to buy another type?

Both are fine but Lithium is quite fine and will disappear very quickly, although give the best result. The other will last for ages but not be as smooth but should keep everything OK IMO

magicbastarder · 03-12-2019 6:55pm

i have a cheap as chips single speed i need to take the back wheel off, which i've never done before, and it's got a joining link i'm not used to. do i just yank off the plate on the near side and pull pins out?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 03-12-2019 7:02pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i have a cheap as chips single speed i need to take the back wheel off, which i've never done before, and it's got a joining link i'm not used to. do i just yank off the plate on the near side and pull pins out?

No, you need to compress either side of that link to open it. A pair of needle nose pliers will do the job

Type 17 · 03-12-2019 7:02pm

No need to split the chain to remove the rear wheel - loosen the axle nuts and slide the wheel forward*, and derail the chain off the front chainring to gain a load of slack, and then withdraw the wheel backwards from the dropouts.

*If there are axle adjusters, loosen them (usually a 10mm nut) to allow the wheel to move forward enough.

PS: For future reference, to remove that type of split link, use a pliers to slide the outer spring-plate (called a fishplate) forward (in the direction of chain-travel), so it unclips, then remove the plate underneath it, and then push the rest of the link out of the chain.

Weepsie · 05-12-2019 12:46pm

Anyone know of any saddles that have taller saddle rails basically? My seized seatpost wouldn't bother me so much if it were at least at the best height for me. It's fairly marginal as it is, so I'm thinking maybe a slightly taller saddle.

Brooks saddles look like they might be a bit taller/higher as does this Selle one.

https://www.rosebikes.com/sella-italia-storica-boost-gravel-leather-saddle-2675155

Might not make any difference, but still

magicbastarder · 05-12-2019 12:48pm

i have a brooks, and i think the rails are higher than normal, but on the flipside the saddle is wider, so may not be the result you want.

Weepsie · 05-12-2019 12:53pm

Might be in touch about having a quick glance at it so, as with all the other stuff I said I'd need!! You'll have to start billing

magicbastarder · 05-12-2019 12:57pm

sure, am at home this evening. it's a B17, btw, so not designed to be narrow.

irlirishkev · 06-12-2019 3:47pm

I got a small shard of glass in my tyre the other evening.
Changed out the tube and all is well, at least it was yesterday and the way into work this morning.. I haven't gotten home yet!

Small slit (~1cm) in the tyre after I got the glass out.
Can I continue to use the tyre or am I just waiting for the thing to blow/split while I'm using it?

Can bring to the lbs tomorrow for a new tyre if I need to.

Thanks.

magicbastarder · 06-12-2019 3:54pm

i wouldn't use a tyre with a 1cm cut in it.

irlirishkev · 06-12-2019 4:03pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i wouldn't use a tyre with a 1cm cut in it.

Thanks. It's an MTB if that makes a difference, but I don't think it does. I'll get a new one tomorrow and hope for the best this evening.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 06-12-2019 4:04pm

irlirishkev wrote: »

I got a small shard of glass in my tyre the other evening.
Changed out the tube and all is well, at least it was yesterday and the way into work this morning.. I haven't gotten home yet!

Small slit (~1cm) in the tyre after I got the glass out.
Can I continue to use the tyre or am I just waiting for the thing to blow/split while I'm using it?

Can bring to the lbs tomorrow for a new tyre if I need to.

Thanks.

If the tyre was relatively new I would usually patch it on the inside with gorilla tape and then fit it on the rear. A blow out on the rear is much safer than a blow out on the front. If the tyre is more than 50% worn then bin it.

riclad · 06-12-2019 10:19pm

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/925/how-can-i-repair-a-tyre-with-a-deep-cut
i would fix it and change the tyre to the front,
i rarely get punctures ,but when i do its usually the back wheel.If the rest of the tyre is in good nick, not worn , theres very little chance of getting a punture from the 1cm slit.
i presume you are riding a mountain bike,
A racing type bike is more likely to get a puncture since the tyre surface is smooth.

CramCycle · 07-12-2019 12:35am

I wouldn't put it on the front, both are recoverable but I feel recovering from a rear blowout is easier/safer.

irlirishkev · 07-12-2019 7:20pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i wouldn't use a tyre with a 1cm cut in it.

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

If the tyre was relatively new I would usually patch it on the inside with gorilla tape and then fit it on the rear. A blow out on the rear is much safer than a blow out on the front. If the tyre is more than 50% worn then bin it.

CramCycle wrote: »

I wouldn't put it on the front, both are recoverable but I feel recovering from a rear blowout is easier/safer.

Well, probably too predictably, it went on the way home after my posting about it

Lesson learnt, don't tempt fate.
I wasn't even annoyed about the 45min walk of shame home - thankfully it wasn't cold and the wind was behind me!

cletus · 12-12-2019 3:09pm

I'm currently refining an old muddy fox courier. It would seem that the front brake cable is routed through the handlebar stem. I've not seen this before, and I'm just wondering how it effects steering

magicbastarder · 12-12-2019 3:15pm

pic not showing for me.

Type 17 · 12-12-2019 3:23pm

cletus wrote: »

I'm currently refining an old muddy fox courier. It would seem that the front brake cable is routed through the handlebar stem. I've not seen this before, and I'm just wondering how it effects steering

I had a Courier myself in 1986 (the exact one in your pic!), and many of the other 80’s MTBs that I owned/saw had this feature - no effect on the steering at all, but you need to disconnect the brake cable if you want to remove the stem from the fork. Tip: you can adjust the front brake by moving the stem up or down a mm or two - easier than using the cable pinch bolt on the straddle cable bridge.

devonp · 12-12-2019 3:24pm

hi

my commuter bike is a hardtail Specialized crosstrail. the whole crankset/chainset has developed play..become noticeably loose.
the BB is apparently a Sram PowerSpline (sealed cartridge) with a X7 drivetrain..?
what tools will i need to remove crankset and maybe replace the btm bracket ?
maybe....!

will i need a crank arm extractor

cheers

cdaly_ · 12-12-2019 4:51pm

cletus wrote: »

I'm currently refining an old muddy fox courier. It would seem that the front brake cable is routed through the handlebar stem. I've not seen this before, and I'm just wondering how it effects steering

This is pretty much standard for canti brakes. It doesn't have to be through the stem but there will be a cable stop somehow mounted to stem or steerer.

ofthelord · 02-01-2020 8:19pm

Hi All,
I got a new road bike about 5 months ago which has tubeless tyres.
To date they have been trouble free and I'm very happy with them.
What I have not yet done though is top up the sealant.
I've been reading mixed recommendations regarding the frequency this needs to be topped up. Although i have noticed a very slow puncture on rear tyre the other day so think I'm overdue a top up.
I don't want to be having to go to the LBS for this so I'd appreciate some suggestions on the best tubeless sealant to use, the kind of kit required, and how often this needs to be topped up.

I've been bringing spare tube with me in case of puncture when out - I've read that this is best option in case the sealant can't heal a larger puncture. Is there any recommended kit to have for roadside repairs on tubeless?

Any other advice on maintaining tubeless also very welcome.

Thanks in advance..

CantGetNoSleep · 02-01-2020 10:14pm

ofthelord wrote: »

Hi All,
I got a new road bike about 5 months ago which has tubeless tyres.
To date they have been trouble free and I'm very happy with them.
What I have not yet done though is top up the sealant.
I've been reading mixed recommendations regarding the frequency this needs to be topped up. Although i have noticed a very slow puncture on rear tyre the other day so think I'm overdue a top up.
I don't want to be having to go to the LBS for this so I'd appreciate some suggestions on the best tubeless sealant to use, the kind of kit required, and how often this needs to be topped up.

I've been bringing spare tube with me in case of puncture when out - I've read that this is best option in case the sealant can't heal a larger puncture. Is there any recommended kit to have for roadside repairs on tubeless?

Any other advice on maintaining tubeless also very welcome.

Thanks in advance..

There's a good tubeless thread on here that is worth a read through.

I've got a Lezyne kit with little plastic "worms" in it - the one puncture I got, they seemed too big to plug it.

I ended up having to patch the inside of the tire in the same way you'd patch a tube.

One tip is that sealant seems to struggle with road tire pressures, if you get a puncture that isn't sealing maybe worth trying lower pressure just to get home

ofthelord · 03-01-2020 11:30am

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

There's a good tubeless thread on here that is worth a read through.

I've got a Lezyne kit with little plastic "worms" in it - the one puncture I got, they seemed too big to plug it.

I ended up having to patch the inside of the tire in the same way you'd patch a tube.

One tip is that sealant seems to struggle with road tire pressures, if you get a puncture that isn't sealing maybe worth trying lower pressure just to get home

Thanks for the reply - I'll be sure to take a read through the existing Tubeless thread.

padyjoe · 03-01-2020 4:44pm

Lads!

I've pulled apart my 105 rear hub and noticed 1 of the ball bearings damaged. I've found this:Halfords bearing cage.
Thinking about getting the balls out of the cage and putting them into the hub.

Should I change all the balls or the damaged one until I get proper bearings?
Thank you!

8valve · 03-01-2020 7:39pm

padyjoe wrote: »

Lads!

I've pulled apart my 105 rear hub and noticed 1 of the ball bearings damaged. I've found this:Halfords bearing cage.
Thinking about getting the balls out of the cage and putting them into the hub.

Should I change all the balls or the damaged one until I get proper bearings?
Thank you!

Makes more sense to replace all the bearings at the same time, or you'll just end up having to repeat the job.
Most good local bike shops will have little bag packs of bearings in the correct size you need.
Bring an old bearing with you for comparison.

Kevhog1988 · 04-01-2020 12:43am

Any reccomendation for YouTube videos on bike maintenance?

magicbastarder · 04-01-2020 1:21am

Park tools videos for in depth ones, GCN for more lightweight ones. Any particular jobs in mind?

brchun0dpvotyk · 04-01-2020 10:23am

Just wondering has anyone experienced a rear wheel that sits in the frame slightly crooked. It is noticeably closer to the frame on one side than the other. If I turn the wheel around it is closer to the other side of the frame so seems to be a wheel issue. It is sitting correctly in the frame so wondering if it is a dish issue of some sort?

Type 17 · 04-01-2020 7:11pm

Could be dishing, or could be a bent axle if the hub has a screw-on freewheel, or if it's a quick-release, check if the skewer springs are right way around (small end should face the centre of the hub, so it doesn't sit over the axle and foul it in the drop-outs).

Did it just start looking like that, or is it a new wheel to that frame? Any recent accident? (frame made crooked?)

brchun0dpvotyk · 04-01-2020 9:12pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Could be dishing, or could be a bent axle if the hub has a screw-on freewheel, or if it's a quick-release, check if the skewer springs are right way around (small end should face the centre of the hub, so it doesn't sit over the axle and foul it in the drop-outs).

Did it just start looking like that, or is it a new wheel to that frame? Any recent accident? (frame made crooked?)

Thanks for that. It was a new issue and no crashes. Just gradually seems to have gone out of straight slightly, only noticed when I removed the rear wheel the other day.

Brought it to the bike shop today and it was a dishing issue. They had it fixed in about 20 mins by tightening the spokes. All good now.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Comments