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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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saccades

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Any suggestions for chaining four bikes together in a shed? I have a u-lock with a kryptoflex cable holding them together, but i think something more heavy duty is called for. There's little sh1tes going around robbing sheds close to us lately.

A heavy duty chain with a strong padlock maybe? Anyone have any similar solutions?

I can't fix anything to the walls of the shed because it's wooden and fairly flimsy.

Buy ground anchor and big bucket or bag and cement mix.

Combine, 20 plus kilos will stop opportunist scroates. Ideally drop the lump in a hole under the shed with a small hole in the floor for the anchor to poke out of.

MediaMan

I have Look Keo Classic pedals on my road bike and the one that I clip in and out of at junctions spins much too freely. This makes it hard to clip in to, as it spins like a top when I push off. Aside from clipping in/out with the other foot or buying new pedals, does anyone have any suggestion as to how to restore a bit of sticktion to the pedal to stop it spinning?

(The bike is nearly new so no "new bike" suggestions pls

)

Plastik

You can use a spanner, probably a 15 I'd have to check, to unscrew the needle bearing and back the pedal with grease. That'll make it spin a less freely.

LollipopJimmy

Trackstand, be grand

CramCycle

This will sound sarcastic but it is not, have you tried the other foot. Are look keo not weighted like spd sls?

dahat

MediaMan wrote: »

I have Look Keo Classic pedals on my road bike and the one that I clip in and out of at junctions spins much too freely. This makes it hard to clip in to, as it spins like a top when I push off. Aside from clipping in/out with the other foot or buying new pedals, does anyone have any suggestion as to how to restore a bit of sticktion to the pedal to stop it spinning?

(The bike is nearly new so no "new bike" suggestions pls )

Pedal bearings are gone, new pedals. The cheaper look pedals don't last anytime. I've 3 sets like so but got used to the set that match the good bike, think of it like a roulette wheel when you try clip in.

magicbastarder

CramCycle wrote: »

This will sound sarcastic but it is not, have you tried the other foot.

i now have a mental picture of MediaMan trying to get his right foot clipped into the left pedal at lights.

doozerie

Altheus wrote: »

Question - I have a Wahoo Kickr, and a Di2 Ultegra bike on it. It seems like no matter what I do, I just can't get the cassette to line up, it's always slipping a little, but never smooth. Any tips on how to get it right? I was thinking it's because it's a SRAM cassette and an Ultegra rear derailleur.

Things I've tried:

1. Setting the cassette size in the e-tube software
2. Microadjustments of the rear derailleur
3. Refitting/sitting the cassette to the Kickr.

It sounds like the spacer(s) behind the cassette differs between your Kickr and the wheel on your bike. Adding or removing a spacer to the Kickr may be the "right" solution, assuming your bike wheel is set up correctly (and vice versa otherwise).

MediaMan

magicbastarder wrote: »

i now have a mental picture of MediaMan trying to get his right foot clipped into the left pedal at lights.

:pac:
Yeah, and even if I was to try and do it as presumably was intended, it would be nearly as hard, after years of one-sided clipping. Might try it though, to see I could actually re-learn the process.

Trackstanding - despite trying to practice it, I can last a max of 10 seconds

Will have a go at the spanner and grease - I had thought that those pedals couldn't be disassembled, but with enough force anything can be disassembled - right

Basically I have more confidence in my bike maintenance skills than in my bike skills!

Utter Consternation

I want to upgrade the brakes on my e-bike. It has mechanical disc brakes.

I want to upgrade them to something like these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Juin-Tech-Hydraulic-Brake-ST1675/dp/B07JNQBV2F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=59032833795&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-vvmy6nV5QIViLTtCh0tagZSEAMYASAAEgIhZ_D_BwE&hvadid=291324278537&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007850&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10863642363365393060&hvtargid=kwd-294731535496&hydadcr=13886_1808768&keywords=juin+tech+r1&qid=1573034371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0NFREc1RzBZQ09DJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTkxNTA3MTFaWTZFV0dGMVZBRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg5MDQ1V1cwQkhRUFZOWFZKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Do i need to take off the stock rotors that are on the bike and replace them with the ones provided with the new brakes? Or can i just swop out the calipers?

Cee-Jay-Cee

Utter Consternation wrote: »

I want to upgrade the brakes on my e-bike. It has mechanical disc brakes.

I want to upgrade them to something like these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Juin-Tech-Hydraulic-Brake-ST1675/dp/B07JNQBV2F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=59032833795&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-vvmy6nV5QIViLTtCh0tagZSEAMYASAAEgIhZ_D_BwE&hvadid=291324278537&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007850&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10863642363365393060&hvtargid=kwd-294731535496&hydadcr=13886_1808768&keywords=juin+tech+r1&qid=1573034371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0NFREc1RzBZQ09DJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTkxNTA3MTFaWTZFV0dGMVZBRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg5MDQ1V1cwQkhRUFZOWFZKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Do i need to take off the stock rotors that are on the bike and replace them with the ones provided with the new brakes? Or can i just swop out the calipers?

No you also need to change the brake levers to hydraulic and add hydraulic lines for the brake fluid. You also need to ensure that your bike takes the same type brake caliper (flat mount or post mount) and lastly, buy from some of the dedicated online bike stores not a no-name brand from amazon when you will have no technical backup or support and may find it difficult finding replacement pads etc

Utter Consternation

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

No you also need to change the brake levers to hydraulic and add hydraulic lines for the brake fluid. You also need to ensure that your bike takes the same type brake caliper (flat mount or post mount) and lastly, buy from some of the dedicated online bike stores not a no-name brand from amazon when you will have no technical backup or support and may find it difficult finding replacement pads etc

Thanks for the reply. I think you can swop them out as they are cable actuated.

I'm told they fit, but i was more worried that taking out the rotor would be a difficult job.

Type 17

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. I think you can swop them out as they are cable actuated.

I'm told they fit, but i was more worried that taking out the rotor would be a difficult job.

The callipers should fit, unless your bike is particularly old or cheap, with an unusual brake mounting type. You should change the disks, because the old ones will be worn, and it’s better to start with new disks and pads together. It’s not hard to change the discs if you have a T25 Torx bit, assuming that they are six- bolt mounting. If they are Shimano centre-lock, you’ll need a Shimano cassette tool.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Utter Consternation wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. I think you can swop them out as they are cable actuated.

I'm told they fit, but i was more worried that taking out the rotor would be a difficult job.

Apologies, I didn't look at the details on the add, I just assumed as they were hydraulic, they were full hydraulic and not hybrids.

Removing the rotor is the simplest of the jobs involved.

Utter Consternation

Type 17 wrote: »

The callipers should fit, unless your bike is particularly old or cheap, with an unusual brake mounting type. You should change the disks, because the old ones will be worn, and it’s better to start with new disks and pads together. It’s not hard to change the discs if you have a T25 Torx bit, assuming that they are six- bolt mounting. If they are Shimano centre-lock, you’ll need a Shimano cassette tool.

K thanks, they're not Shimano and are six bolt.

The stock ones are 180mm, but the new ones are 160mm. Does that make any difference for the fitting?

Deano12345

Utter Consternation wrote: »

K thanks, they're not Shimano and are six bolt.

The stock ones are 180mm, but the new ones are 160mm. Does that make any difference for the fitting?

6 bolt will just be T25, so no problems there.

Normally going up or down a disc size, you will need an adapter, which will change the position of the calliper relative to the disc. Sometimes a bike will come with them, one side of the adapter will be for your current disc size and the other will be a size down (ie 180, would flip to fit 160)

If you don’t have them, they’re cheaply bought online!

I personally had to use them on a fork designed for 140’s when I wanted to use a 160

Type 17

Utter Consternation wrote: »

The stock ones are 180mm, but the new ones are 160mm. Does that make any difference for the fitting?

You should stick with the 180mm size, even if it means buying new 180 discs separately - bigger discs make the brakes more powerful, and if the designers of your (heavier than a normal bike) e-bike chose 180's, then I wouldn't downgrade to 160's. Additionally, if you do downgrade, you'll also have to enter the annoying world of "which adaptors do I need?", to change the position of the callipers for the smaller discs.

Saying that, 160's are by far the most common size, so you won't have trouble swapping or trading them away if required.

Utter Consternation

Weepsie wrote: »

as an FYI, I have those Juin Tech brakes. Cheaper from the edge sports in the uk and I think they come with rotors too.

Type 17 wrote: »

You should stick with the 180mm size, even if it means buying new 180 discs separately - bigger discs make the brakes more powerful, and if the designers of your (heavier than a normal bike) e-bike chose 180's, then I wouldn't downgrade to 160's. Additionally, if you do downgrade, you'll also have to enter the annoying world of "which adaptors do I need?", to change the position of the callipers for the smaller discs.

Saying that, 160's are by far the most common size, so you won't have trouble swapping or trading them away if required.

Thanks guys. The bike is definitely heavier than normal, the stock mechanical breaks aren't great particularly on a wet morning like today.

That's my Xmas present from herself sorted.

coach22

I have lithium grease and Teflon grease red in colour. Are either of these suitable for use on a headset or do I need to buy another type?

CramCycle

coach22 wrote: »

I have lithium grease and Teflon grease red in colour. Are either of these suitable for use on a headset or do I need to buy another type?

Both are fine but Lithium is quite fine and will disappear very quickly, although give the best result. The other will last for ages but not be as smooth but should keep everything OK IMO

magicbastarder

i have a cheap as chips single speed i need to take the back wheel off, which i've never done before, and it's got a joining link i'm not used to. do i just yank off the plate on the near side and pull pins out?

Cee-Jay-Cee

magicbastarder wrote: »

i have a cheap as chips single speed i need to take the back wheel off, which i've never done before, and it's got a joining link i'm not used to. do i just yank off the plate on the near side and pull pins out?

No, you need to compress either side of that link to open it. A pair of needle nose pliers will do the job

Type 17

No need to split the chain to remove the rear wheel - loosen the axle nuts and slide the wheel forward*, and derail the chain off the front chainring to gain a load of slack, and then withdraw the wheel backwards from the dropouts.

*If there are axle adjusters, loosen them (usually a 10mm nut) to allow the wheel to move forward enough.

PS: For future reference, to remove that type of split link, use a pliers to slide the outer spring-plate (called a fishplate) forward (in the direction of chain-travel), so it unclips, then remove the plate underneath it, and then push the rest of the link out of the chain.

magicbastarder

i have a brooks, and i think the rails are higher than normal, but on the flipside the saddle is wider, so may not be the result you want.

magicbastarder

sure, am at home this evening. it's a B17, btw, so not designed to be narrow.

irlirishkev

I got a small shard of glass in my tyre the other evening.
Changed out the tube and all is well, at least it was yesterday and the way into work this morning.. I haven't gotten home yet!

Small slit (~1cm) in the tyre after I got the glass out.
Can I continue to use the tyre or am I just waiting for the thing to blow/split while I'm using it?

Can bring to the lbs tomorrow for a new tyre if I need to.

Thanks.

magicbastarder

i wouldn't use a tyre with a 1cm cut in it.

irlirishkev

magicbastarder wrote: »

i wouldn't use a tyre with a 1cm cut in it.

Thanks. It's an MTB if that makes a difference, but I don't think it does. I'll get a new one tomorrow and hope for the best this evening.

Cee-Jay-Cee

irlirishkev wrote: »

I got a small shard of glass in my tyre the other evening.
Changed out the tube and all is well, at least it was yesterday and the way into work this morning.. I haven't gotten home yet!

Small slit (~1cm) in the tyre after I got the glass out.
Can I continue to use the tyre or am I just waiting for the thing to blow/split while I'm using it?

Can bring to the lbs tomorrow for a new tyre if I need to.

Thanks.

If the tyre was relatively new I would usually patch it on the inside with gorilla tape and then fit it on the rear. A blow out on the rear is much safer than a blow out on the front. If the tyre is more than 50% worn then bin it.

riclad

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/925/how-can-i-repair-a-tyre-with-a-deep-cut
i would fix it and change the tyre to the front,
i rarely get punctures ,but when i do its usually the back wheel.If the rest of the tyre is in good nick, not worn , theres very little chance of getting a punture from the 1cm slit.
i presume you are riding a mountain bike,
A racing type bike is more likely to get a puncture since the tyre surface is smooth.