the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

iamtony wrote: »

Oh thanks I got distracted haha thought I deleted and was going to try again.

Anyway my son has one of those fiido D1 EBikes(I know) and the pads are gone on the rear. I'm trying to order some and the ones I see online just seem to be little magnetic discs which is fine to fit the inside pad on the piston but the outside pad seems to be built into the adjuster. Anyone know if I'm right?

My nephew has the D2 version, and I ordered and have received the discs. Like yourself, I opened the inside side to find the magnetic disc there , but couldn't see the way to get to the outside disc, I, like yourself presume I have to take off the adjuster (as it's the only other bolt available) but haven't done it as I can only open the front, not the rear (which is what needs changing)

The discs when they arrive, are identical, so I presume there is a magnet in the far side too.

By the way, I ordered extra discs, and if you are Dublin based, I'm sure he'll sell you a set rather than waiting 4/5 weeks from fiido, or pay 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

These seem to operate on the basis of one pad being stationary, and the other moves against the disc, which then moves the disc against the stationary one.

My problem with the back one is that I cannot open the lock nut that allows me to get the part you have pictured off, it is only 2.5(I think) and i am afraid of either ringing the Allen key bolt, or bending the Allen key - any suggestions?
I took photos on the phone, I'll add them tomorrow. He uses the bike to get to work daily, so dont have access to it all the time.

By the way, I ordered extra pads, so if you are Dublin based, I'm sure hed sell a set rather than having yo wait 4/5 weeks from fiido, or paying 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

No, theres no movement in it at all through the spokes, which is frustrating.
There doesn't seem to be too many in this parish with any experience of them, and YouTube has no "repair videos" yet.

I've a fairly decent set, but not T-bar style, I might get a mechanic in work have a go at it.

Consey wrote: »

Using Trek Alu (1.2) Bike permanently attached to direct drive turbo. Worked fine for a long time, except now can't get front derailleur to move onto small ring.

No more Alpe d'Zwift for me. When I click the Sora changer, the cable goes slack, the FD moves a little but not enough to change the gear.

I'm guessing that accumulated perspiration has clogged up the FD. I tried oiling and lubing same. No good.

Any other suggestions please? I'm terrible at sorting out gear problems....as well as most mechanical probs....

Disconnect the cable and move the derailleur by hand. If it moves ok, the issue is with the cable. It's possible the cable is frayed up at the shifter. That means the cable can move the derailleur up onto the big chainring, but won't allow it down onto the small chainring.

There's no B-screw adjustment?

What was the old derailleur model?

Is the new one a Tourney TZ or the other ones without a B-adjustment screw?

Edit: sounds like the TZ, then. Is the chain the correct length? Is the jockey eheel cage the longer type?

...this one https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY500-SGS.html

There's a lot of Tourney RDs on https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney.html, but only one with that odd pulley

If the chain was too long, wouldn't moving into a bigger chainring counter-act that?

I'll see about a picture, and come back. Thank you, all!

Weird result - I was doing all this with the bike upside down on a chest freezer (aka worktop). Once the bike was turned the right way up, the RD dropped away a little bit from the sprockets, and the problem went away!

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks - much appreciated.

fixXxer wrote: »

What kind of valve is this? Dont seem to have anything that fits in my toolbox.

Looks like a standard presta valve. What are you trying to do that needs a tool?

fixXxer wrote: »

Fill the tyre with air :pac: I don't have a bit with the pump that connects to it.

You can buy little brass adaptors to change a Schrader valve to a presta valve. Most bike shops would have them.

Effects wrote: »

Those adapters can be finicky sometimes. I'd say guy a new track pump.

New bike?

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

Look up the Park Tool channel on YouTube. They have videos on pretty much any job you might want to do

Sounds like front derailleur issues

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Thanks, I'll do that. Yeah from my limited knowledge I think something just needs tightening up. I have to push the lever right in to get it to shift. I'm guilty of doing very little other than cleaning it since I got it so it's my own fault.

sounds like the cable has stretched, there should be a barrel adjuster somewhere along the cable to allow adjustment.

Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit...

Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool??

I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!!

Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit?

Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job

Much obliged, thank you both very much.

I have a fair few tools and different grease, carbon paste etc so I'm happy enough in general, was just a bit nervous about the press fit, will also be my first venture into di2 but YouTube will be my friend there

wersal gummage wrote: »

Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit...

Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool??

I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!!

Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit?

Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job

I've installed press fitt BB cups by using a length of threaded bar, three nuts and a few washers. Lock two nuts together at one end, then slide a washer onto the bar. Then thread the bar through the Left BB cup...through the Frame and then add the Right BB cup. Then add a washer and tighten it all up. Worked a treat!

CramCycle wrote: »

I should clarify, at this point, the wheel does not appear out of true. Waiting time in the LBS is 3 weeks. I am tempted as they are new wheels to leave them in but 3 weeks is a long wait. As they are new, I also don't want to go in somewhere else in case they damage them and void the warranty, the shop gave me the spare spoke and apologised about the wait time. I might just try it and drop it in if issues develop.

The spoke broke for a reason.

How new? Unridden?

The fact, I presume a lowish spoke count wheel, isn't out of true with a spoke missing would be a red flag as to the quality of the build.

You should have high and even spoke tension. That at a minimum should be checked.

Is it a broken spoke or the neck of the nipple?

As it's not a cheap wheel I'd be handing it back to be rebuilt if it was me

cletus wrote: »

You can buy little brass adaptors to change a Schrader valve to a presta valve. Most bike shops would have them.

That little adaptor is great if you don’t have a track pump, often available in bike shops. I haven’t found them finicky. More than you need to know about valves here... with the adapter shown at 3:55 in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ux08bz43qY

If you only have an old style hand pump it’s hard work and guesswork getting the tyres inflated. A track pump is great for getting tyres to the right pressure quickly. A good investment if you’re using a bike more than once a month.

CramCycle wrote: »

About two months of riding
24, so not really low, it is a CX wheel. It is slightly out of true now. Its monor so maybe I missed it when the spoke broke on the commute.
Can't find my tensiometer, somewhere in the shed.
Right where it enters the nipple, which is hidden inside the rim
Normally I would too but 3 weeks is a long time IMO. Might bite the bullet and bring it back next week. Pain in the ass.

Nds rear?

I need to replace the bottom bearing on my headset. The existing bearing has the following text on it - TH MR 075 1-1/8 36’ x 4.5 1.6
How do I know what replacement bearing to buy based on this info as I can’t make head or tail of it?

CramCycle wrote: »

MR075 is the manufacturers code I think, have seen variations on FSA Headsets but someone else will know better

1 1/8 refers to 1'1/8 inch headset
36 x 4.5 I imagine is actually 36 degree by 45degree

https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/mr075-th800-headset-bearing-by-fsa.html
or https://all4bikes.be/shop/en/headset-bearings-fsa-bearing-acb-micro-118-36x45-th-800mr075-black-160-6747-p-1620678.html

That’s great. Thanks very much.