nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

Child Item

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

Find more posts tagged with

Quick Links

Comments

Jim Gazebo

loyatemu wrote: »

sounds like the cable has stretched, there should be a barrel adjuster somewhere along the cable to allow adjustment.

Cheers for that! I'll have a proper look when home.

Jim Gazebo

07Lapierre wrote: »

See post 3408..

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116621577&postcount=3408

Thank you!

07Lapierre

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

See post 3408..

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116621577&postcount=3408

loyatemu

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Thanks, I'll do that. Yeah from my limited knowledge I think something just needs tightening up. I have to push the lever right in to get it to shift. I'm guilty of doing very little other than cleaning it since I got it so it's my own fault.

sounds like the cable has stretched, there should be a barrel adjuster somewhere along the cable to allow adjustment.

Jim Gazebo

cletus wrote: »

Look up the Park Tool channel on YouTube. They have videos on pretty much any job you might want to do

Sounds like front derailleur issues

Thanks, I'll do that. Yeah from my limited knowledge I think something just needs tightening up. I have to push the lever right in to get it to shift. I'm guilty of doing very little other than cleaning it since I got it so it's my own fault.

cletus

Jim Gazebo wrote: »

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

Look up the Park Tool channel on YouTube. They have videos on pretty much any job you might want to do

Sounds like front derailleur issues

Jim Gazebo

Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem.

I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare.

Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.

cletus

Effects wrote: »

Those adapters can be finicky sometimes. I'd say guy a new track pump.

New bike?

Effects

Those adapters can be finicky sometimes. I'd say buy a new track pump.

cletus

fixXxer wrote: »

Fill the tyre with air :pac: I don't have a bit with the pump that connects to it.

You can buy little brass adaptors to change a Schrader valve to a presta valve. Most bike shops would have them.

fixXxer

Plastik wrote: »

Looks like a standard presta valve. What are you trying to do that needs a tool?

Fill the tyre with air :pac: I don't have a bit with the pump that connects to it.

Plastik

fixXxer wrote: »

What kind of valve is this? Dont seem to have anything that fits in my toolbox.

Looks like a standard presta valve. What are you trying to do that needs a tool?

fixXxer

What kind of valve is this? Dont seem to have anything that fits in my toolbox.

brownian

Weird result - I was doing all this with the bike upside down on a chest freezer (aka worktop). Once the bike was turned the right way up, the RD dropped away a little bit from the sprockets, and the problem went away!

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks - much appreciated.

Type 17

If the top jockey wheel is hitting the biggest sprocket, I was thinking that chain might be too short.

brownian

If the chain was too long, wouldn't moving into a bigger chainring counter-act that?

I'll see about a picture, and come back. Thank you, all!

Type 17

That RD should work fine with the Mega-range freewheel - chain length issue?

Maybe take a pic of the whole drivetrain from the side?

brownian

...this one https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY500-SGS.html

There's a lot of Tourney RDs on https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney.html, but only one with that odd pulley

brownian

I'm pretty sure both the old and the new are Shimano Tourney RD-TY500. It was almost impossible to read on the old old (black plastic, ancient), but the RD design, with a built-in pulley, was pretty distinctive.

Type 17

What was the old derailleur model?

Is the new one a Tourney TZ or the other ones without a B-adjustment screw?

Edit: sounds like the TZ, then. Is the chain the correct length? Is the jockey eheel cage the longer type?

brownian

....sorry, there is also a screw at the back of the RD, that I think is the 'B tension' screw. I thought this would be what I needed but even fully screwed in, the problem persists.

Plastik

There's no B-screw adjustment?

brownian

(apologies if this appears odd - for some reason boards is not formatting correctly for me today)...

Anyway - I'm putting a new Shimano Tourney 6/7 speed rear derailleur on a Giant MTB of my nephew's. The biggest cog on his cassette is 'extra size', and a lot bigger than the second-gear one.
The derailleur sits v close to this cog, so that the chain is essentially pinched between them, making a nasty rumbling noise. I can't see how to get the derailleur to sit 'higher' so that there's more a gap between it and the cogs.
The RD only has 2 adjustment screws and a barrel adjuster, none of which seem to influence the problem. Changing into a higher or lower chainring at the front (thus effectively shortening/lengthening the chain) has no effect.

Any ideas? Thank you!

07Lapierre

Consey wrote: »

Using Trek Alu (1.2) Bike permanently attached to direct drive turbo. Worked fine for a long time, except now can't get front derailleur to move onto small ring.

No more Alpe d'Zwift for me. When I click the Sora changer, the cable goes slack, the FD moves a little but not enough to change the gear.

I'm guessing that accumulated perspiration has clogged up the FD. I tried oiling and lubing same. No good.

Any other suggestions please? I'm terrible at sorting out gear problems....as well as most mechanical probs....

Disconnect the cable and move the derailleur by hand. If it moves ok, the issue is with the cable. It's possible the cable is frayed up at the shifter. That means the cable can move the derailleur up onto the big chainring, but won't allow it down onto the small chainring.

Consey

Using Trek Alu (1.2) Bike permanently attached to direct drive turbo. Worked fine for a long time, except now can't get front derailleur to move onto small ring.

No more Alpe d'Zwift for me. When I click the Sora changer, the cable goes slack, the FD moves a little but not enough to change the gear.

I'm guessing that accumulated perspiration has clogged up the FD. I tried oiling and lubing same. No good.

Any other suggestions please? I'm terrible at sorting out gear problems....as well as most mechanical probs....

wheelo01

I've a fairly decent set, but not T-bar style, I might get a mechanic in work have a go at it.

iamtony

wheelo01 wrote: »

No, theres no movement in it at all through the spokes, which is frustrating.
There doesn't seem to be too many in this parish with any experience of them, and YouTube has no "repair videos" yet.

I'm scouring you tube for a video on the pad replacement procedure and I can't find one, it's shocking actually seeing how popular they are. All the videos saying brake change are about upgrading.
I'd say your best bet to loosen the grub screw is to try get a bit of penetrating oil on it without getting it on any thing else obviously and then just go for it. Have you got decent T bar style Allen keys?

wheelo01

No, theres no movement in it at all through the spokes, which is frustrating.
There doesn't seem to be too many in this parish with any experience of them, and YouTube has no "repair videos" yet.

iamtony

wheelo01 wrote: »

My nephew has the D2 version, and I ordered and have received the discs. Like yourself, I opened the inside side to find the magnetic disc there , but couldn't see the way to get to the outside disc, I, like yourself presume I have to take off the adjuster (as it's the only other bolt available) but haven't done it as I can only open the front, not the rear (which is what needs changing)

The discs when they arrive, are identical, so I presume there is a magnet in the far side too.

By the way, I ordered extra discs, and if you are Dublin based, I'm sure he'll sell you a set rather than waiting 4/5 weeks from fiido, or pay 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

These seem to operate on the basis of one pad being stationary, and the other moves against the disc, which then moves the disc against the stationary one.

My problem with the back one is that I cannot open the lock nut that allows me to get the part you have pictured off, it is only 2.5(I think) and i am afraid of either ringing the Allen key bolt, or bending the Allen key - any suggestions?
I took photos on the phone, I'll add them tomorrow. He uses the bike to get to work daily, so dont have access to it all the time.

By the way, I ordered extra pads, so if you are Dublin based, I'm sure hed sell a set rather than having yo wait 4/5 weeks from fiido, or paying 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

Yes exact same single piston set up and you have to adjust the stationary one every few weeks. I took the front one out which has loads of meat left on it but doesn't look like the pad comes off the adjuster, maybe it just looks that way.
From the picture above you it doesn't look like a magnet either. And there's still a small amount of the abrasive material left on one side of it. Searching brake pad on the fiido site doesn't return any results funny enough.
Thanks for the offer. If I need it I may take you up on it but if its just the small magnetic discs they are widely available and cheap.
On my search I did see the whole brake caliper can be upgraded to a hydraulic caliper which was about the same price as your pads!
Thought this would of been a question I'd have an answer to in minutes on here&#55358;&#56631;

Oh, forgot to mention yes it is 2.5mm but mine came out easily. Id try just opening the adjuster if it moves at all through the spokes of the wheel, the inner part of that grub screw is nylon so shouldn't do any damage.

wheelo01

iamtony wrote: »

Oh thanks I got distracted haha thought I deleted and was going to try again.

Anyway my son has one of those fiido D1 EBikes(I know) and the pads are gone on the rear. I'm trying to order some and the ones I see online just seem to be little magnetic discs which is fine to fit the inside pad on the piston but the outside pad seems to be built into the adjuster. Anyone know if I'm right?

My nephew has the D2 version, and I ordered and have received the discs. Like yourself, I opened the inside side to find the magnetic disc there , but couldn't see the way to get to the outside disc, I, like yourself presume I have to take off the adjuster (as it's the only other bolt available) but haven't done it as I can only open the front, not the rear (which is what needs changing)

The discs when they arrive, are identical, so I presume there is a magnet in the far side too.

By the way, I ordered extra discs, and if you are Dublin based, I'm sure he'll sell you a set rather than waiting 4/5 weeks from fiido, or pay 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)

These seem to operate on the basis of one pad being stationary, and the other moves against the disc, which then moves the disc against the stationary one.

My problem with the back one is that I cannot open the lock nut that allows me to get the part you have pictured off, it is only 2.5(I think) and i am afraid of either ringing the Allen key bolt, or bending the Allen key - any suggestions?
I took photos on the phone, I'll add them tomorrow. He uses the bike to get to work daily, so dont have access to it all the time.

By the way, I ordered extra pads, so if you are Dublin based, I'm sure hed sell a set rather than having yo wait 4/5 weeks from fiido, or paying 48 euro from the fiido stockist in Swords (parts, not fitted)