fixXxer wrote: » What kind of valve is this? Dont seem to have anything that fits in my toolbox.
Plastik wrote: » Looks like a standard presta valve. What are you trying to do that needs a tool?
fixXxer wrote: » Fill the tyre with air :pac: I don't have a bit with the pump that connects to it.
Effects wrote: » Those adapters can be finicky sometimes. I'd say guy a new track pump.
Jim Gazebo wrote: » Hi all, apologies for not using the search function on here but I am looking for any good quality guides / links on how to maintain a road bike. I have a giant defy 3 and have left it over the winter. Changing from small to big ring (not sure how else to describe it) has become difficult. Just looking for a good quality guide in how to give it a service myself and fix up this problem. I'm away for work so wont be able to do it for another while but would like to prepare. Thanks in advance and again, apologies if it's been answered before somewhere here.
cletus wrote: » Look up the Park Tool channel on YouTube. They have videos on pretty much any job you might want to do Sounds like front derailleur issues
Jim Gazebo wrote: » Thanks, I'll do that. Yeah from my limited knowledge I think something just needs tightening up. I have to push the lever right in to get it to shift. I'm guilty of doing very little other than cleaning it since I got it so it's my own fault.
07Lapierre wrote: » See post 3408..https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116621577&postcount=3408
loyatemu wrote: » sounds like the cable has stretched, there should be a barrel adjuster somewhere along the cable to allow adjustment.
CramCycle wrote: » New carbon wheels and one spoke seared off near the nipple. The rim is true so is it as simple as putting in a new spoke and tightening up to the same tension as its opposing spoke?
07Lapierre wrote: » Don't think so. The spoke broke for a reason. Best to leave it in and have a new spoke fitted and get the wheel re-trued.
wersal gummage wrote: » Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit... Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool??
I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!!
Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit?
Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job
CramCycle wrote: » I've trued alu wheels before. It isn't out of true but I will give it a thorough going over. Is there any difference in working with Carbon rims vs Alu one is my main question?
wersal gummage wrote: » Building up a new bike, I've done this before but this is my first time with the infamous pressfit... Just buy a shimano job and a cheap tool from the likes of wiggle, or buy one of these fancy hope type expensive screw together ones and associated proprietary tool?? I'd like to keep it simple and go shimano, but Google has me convinced I'll have squeaking noises for ever more, assuming I don't destroy the frame when installing in the first place!! Any recommendations on this or generally on installing pressfit? Overall cost of bike when built will be (for me at least) considerable, so while I'm not looking to spend money, in the scheme of things either option here will have little impact on the budget. I guess I'm trying to say money / price is not the overriding consideration, but definitely would stick with simple and shimano if that's likely to be a good job
07Lapierre wrote: » I'm not an expert but I suspect carbon rims would not be as easy to true. Also the modern straight pull, bladed spokes require a specific tool to hold them while you tighten the nipple. Without it, the spoke will twist.
CramCycle wrote: » I should clarify, at this point, the wheel does not appear out of true. Waiting time in the LBS is 3 weeks. I am tempted as they are new wheels to leave them in but 3 weeks is a long wait. As they are new, I also don't want to go in somewhere else in case they damage them and void the warranty, the shop gave me the spare spoke and apologised about the wait time. I might just try it and drop it in if issues develop.
Large bottle small glass wrote: » The spoke broke for a reason. How new? Unridden?
The fact, I presume a lowish spoke count wheel, isn't out of true with a spoke missing would be a red flag as to the quality of the build.
You should have high and even spoke tension. That at a minimum should be checked.
Is it a broken spoke or the neck of the nipple?
As it's not a cheap wheel I'd be handing it back to be rebuilt if it was me
cletus wrote: » You can buy little brass adaptors to change a Schrader valve to a presta valve. Most bike shops would have them.
slideshow bob wrote: » ... A track pump is great for getting tyres to the right pressure quickly. A good investment if you’re using a bike more than once a month.
CramCycle wrote: » About two months of riding 24, so not really low, it is a CX wheel. It is slightly out of true now. Its monor so maybe I missed it when the spoke broke on the commute. Can't find my tensiometer, somewhere in the shed. Right where it enters the nipple, which is hidden inside the rim Normally I would too but 3 weeks is a long time IMO. Might bite the bullet and bring it back next week. Pain in the ass.
Large bottle small glass wrote: » Nds rear?
