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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread
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Zaiden Fit Schoolmarm wrote: »On my last gsxr myself and a mate jumping on a 5 foot breaker bar wouldn't take it off, had to bring it to a tyre shop to use their air gun lol
Then it was massively overtightened, and I'd be wondering what that might have done to the gearbox if it was put into gear to tighten it
If the shaft isn't worn, it's torqued up to spec and lockwashered properly then it's never coming loose by itself, there's no point loctiting it or overtightening it. If the shaft is damaged then you're screwed sooner or later anyway.
Rear wheel nut and hub nut were 146Nm on my Triumph, that's a lot, but were still easy to do up / loosen with a metre long bar.
You get more leverage pulling upwards than pressing downwards, using your thigh muscles instead of just your body weight.
Air wrench / electric impact wrench for a bike would be a waste of money tbh. Impact driver (cheap hand tool you whack with a hammer
) can be handy for undoing seized engine case bolts though. But if they're seized badly they usually just break! Scrap the cap!
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Then it was massively overtightened, and I'd be wondering what that might have done to the gearbox if it was put into gear to tighten it
If the shaft isn't worn, it's torqued up to spec and lockwashered properly then it's never coming loose by itself, there's no point loctiting it or overtightening it. If the shaft is damaged then you're screwed sooner or later anyway.
Rear wheel nut and hub nut were 146Nm on my Triumph, that's a lot, but were still easy to do up / loosen with a metre long bar.
You get more leverage pulling upwards than pressing downwards, using your thigh muscles instead of just your body weight.
Air wrench / electric impact wrench for a bike would be a waste of money tbh. Impact driver (cheap hand tool you whack with a hammer ) can be handy for undoing seized engine case bolts though. But if they're seized badly they usually just break!
If my memory serves me right and it usually does, there was damage done to that gsxr.
146nm seems crazy tight doesn't it.
Is that what it said in the manual?
I wouldn't take manuals as gospel though.
My Aprilia manual says 120 for the rear wheel but that's too tight.
100 is enough.
Fellas damaging their bikes over manuals isn't unheard of.0 -
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Ah right, single sided swingarm, forgot about that! :rolleyes:Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Not really, single sided swingarm so that 46mm nut was the only thing holding the rear wheel on
Yep and every single sided swingarm Triumph model is the same.
A speed triple, is it?0 -
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Put a Scottoiler E system on the bike, expected it to take about an hour. 4 hours later..
I'm going to put a new screen on it soon too as I get fair bit of buffeting at 100Km or so.
Will look to get an exhaust also but the stock exhaust sounds quite nice and it spits and pops too.
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well I eventually got around to doing the valve shims on the V
5 of the 8 valves were out of spec and some weeks ago I ordered a box of various sized shims
I was pleasantly surprised to see that the shims in the inlet valves were not the stock 2.95mm that the V came out of the factory with which means that at some point in its 40'000 mile history it did get some tlc
So for example inlet valve
The installed shim was 3.15mm
Measured clearance was 0.10mm ( spec is 0.15-0.2mm
So to increase the gap I installed a 3.05mm shim which brought the gap to the upper limit of 0.2mm
Used one of the telescopic magnet tools to lift out the bucket with the shim attached worked a treat
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Last Monday - bank holiday - I finally got round to starting to strip my forks.
Blew the seals on my first post-lockdown ride in April - faffed around for a few weeks before ordering the parts - took a few weeks for them all to arrive, and in the meantime I injured my knee pretty bad and was on crutches for a while.
So here we are
Using my cheap-ass paddock stands I just about managed to raise the sump up enough to get wooden blocks under it, I had just enough clearance to roll the front wheel out, but only just :rolleyes:
There's a special tool to tighten/loosen the cartridge, with the springs and fork caps still in I was able to undo the bolt at the bottom of each fork easily, may need to use the same method in reverse to tighten them, or can cut teeth into the end of a suitably sized pipe.
Some bubbling in the finish, sand off with fine sandpaper and then some Hammerite smooth silver do you reckon? Brush or spray?Scrap the cap!
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Last Monday - bank holiday - I finally got round to starting to strip my forks.
Blew the seals on my first post-lockdown ride in April - faffed around for a few weeks before ordering the parts - took a few weeks for them all to arrive, and in the meantime I injured my knee pretty bad and was on crutches for a while.
So here we are
Using my cheap-ass paddock stands I just about managed to raise the sump up enough to get wooden blocks under it, I had just enough clearance to roll the front wheel out, but only just :rolleyes:
There's a special tool to tighten/loosen the cartridge, with the springs and fork caps still in I was able to undo the bolt at the bottom of each fork easily, may need to use the same method in reverse to tighten them, or can cut teeth into the end of a suitably sized pipe.
Some bubbling in the finish, sand off with fine sandpaper and then some Hammerite smooth silver do you reckon? Brush or spray?
Looking good dude, if that bike or similar rwu Suzukis are gona feature in yer garage you might wanna make a cheap and quick tool so you can torque the 8mn Allen at the bottom.
https://ibb.co/tK6hVSR
https://ibb.co/bBjb4WD
https://ibb.co/gjpnhwJ
Head into the local coop or tool place and spend 15 quid buying 3 M16 bolts and a length of 16mm threaded rod. Tightened the two bolts together at the end of the rod, red loctite will help. If you're feeling fancy file the bottom of the receiving bolt flat to remove the chamfer for a more positive fit.
For a handle buy a 16mm threaded eye like this https://m.indiamart.com/proddetail/eye-bolts-9931836397.html and join it with another m16 bolt and red loctite.
I'd aerosol paint the lowers, brush marks are gack. Simoniz wheel or cantdecides fav hammerite. Some fine wire wool or wet n dry first followed by degreasing and primer.0 -
Only spotted this, looks lovely!cantdecide wrote: »Got the SV more or less finished. Lots of little jobs and some bigger jobs done...
I missed the Fazer where is she now?0 -
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cantdecide wrote: »Still in my shed!!
I sidelined her when I thought I'd get the SV turned around quickly. Unfortunately, the day job went into overdrive for August and September so neither bike got the attention they needed.
The SV is now done so I stuck the Fazer back up on the bench a few weeks ago and she's getting there. All she needs is brakes overhauled, one last look into the carbs and to get the paintwork done (I have all the materials). After that, if she fires and runs okay and there are no snags, all she'll need is a final torquing and a new owner!
Can't wait. To see er finished, loadsa pics n vids!
SV should fly out the door for you.
Well from a riding perspective that's 2020 done n dusted. Lasts spin of the year just there, filled the tanks and rode the ring off her:eek:
Now to clean and service her for next Yr. She averaged circa 50mpg this season and just needs fluids n filters. Oh and indicators.
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Thanks H, my fork isn't like that though, the cartridge tool has a castellated end like this (1 of the 4 cut outs done) and sv-portal.com describes how to make one. But I may well not have to.
Good call on the alloy wheel paint, it'll be either that or Hammerite spray. Haven't had the chance to do any more with the bike since :rolleyes: better make some time tomorrow.Scrap the cap!
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Thanks H, my fork isn't like that though, the cartridge tool has a castellated end like this (1 of the 4 cut outs done) and sv-portal.com describes how to make one. But I may well not have to.
Good call on the alloy wheel paint, it'll be either that or Hammerite spray. Haven't had the chance to do any more with the bike since :rolleyes: better make some time tomorrow.
Well f me pink if Suzuki the parts bin gods didn't re use that blood multi point damper rod, sorry for the waffle so.
Whack up some picktars as ye go for prosperity Eoin, this end of the forum is quiet bar Japcatis obsessive cleaning, he always had his old rs250 sick n span!0 -
90s gixer 600 forks on SV1k (before the gixer went USD)
Wow if JC is who I think it is then this really is a small world
Thought it was funny you suggesting I go to the co-op though, not many of them round here :pac:Scrap the cap!
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Japcati2020 wrote: »Calipers cleaned,chain cleaned,and new pads in.
Bike totally cleaned down too.
And it's to piss rain tomorrow..... 🤣
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Hotblack Desiato wrote: »Thanks H, my fork isn't like that though, the cartridge tool has a castellated end like this
Like this?
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Question, the gearshift on my project bike works fine but I doesnt have that nice bounce back to centre that my new bike has. Granted its old but is that due to the spring being a bit old (part 4 below)?
No that spring is the return for the brake light switch, the parts that affect the feel of the shift are probably internal springs in the selector drum inside the cases
This spring:
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nsr125r-1992-n-switzerlandkph_model3583/spring-gearshift_24651ky4901/#.X7VBbGj7Sbg0 -
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