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Now Ye're Talking - to a woman travelling South America
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Spent 3 months in SA about 11 years ago before heading on to New Zealand and absolutely loved it. When you said "I never travel by a Lonely Planet instead go by other travellers advice. But only travellers I know I am similar to.
I avoid the irish party hostels like the PLAGUE." I agreed with 100%, while it is nice to bump into people from home every now and then I wouldn't go seeking them out and so many do, it baffles me.
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I spent 6 weeks in Argentina - Ushuaia was a real highlight. I loved Peru and Boliva- unfortunately didn't get to Colombia - but hope to some day.[/font]
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I'm going to PM you for your blog address if that is OK?[/font]
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]So my question... how often would you treat yourself to the full cama?
[/font]
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Safe travels - looking forward to the updates![/font]0 -
Do you speak Spanish fluently?
I've been to Peru, Chile, Argentina and Bolivia and without the guides I would have been stuffed.
Saying things is one aspect, understanding the reply is something else. I also felt I missed out on some great conversations with locals due to my lack of Spanish. Still deeply regret this years later
I've always felt very aware when out and about. Being a pale faced gringo does get you a lot of stares and looks. However, I've only had a few people hassling me to buy stuff or begging, so it has not been too bad.
I understand what you mean about Argentina. Never really liked it or the people.
Loved Bolivia, although in all my travels it is the only time I got food poisoning. Lying on a boat on Lake Titicaca puking and skittering was not the dream.
Who did you socialise at night with? I am a bit older than you and prefer to stay in hotels - meaning that I never got the whole hostel party crowd to interact with. My evenings were a mixture of dining alone and/or a walk along some of the main streets.
I loved some of the country towns in Peru and places like Potosi in Bolivia where I could sit in the plaza major in the evening and people watching. Never went to a pub or dance as I felt I would be too vunerable.
At times I felt that a companion to share the experiences with would have made good trips/experiences soo much better. Although the alternative would be sitting at home...
I've been to Cuba too, so if you have any questions, just ask
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Thanks for the question
Visas have been fine on an Irish pasaport, I have gotten them all at the borders. The borders themselves can be a different tale tho haha.
Bolivia is the cheapest without a doubt, Argentina/Brazil and Ecuador the most expensive - on par to home. Colombia and Peru just sit in the middle somewhere.
I have met very few Irish, maybe 10 in total? Where as I am pretty sure Germany, France and Holland are empty of 20-35 year olds as they are all in Latin America!
Germans etc more money to splash I guess0 -
makeorbrake wrote: »Take the Metro/MetroCable to Parque Arvi - nice chilled out day after your bus journey from hell!
Guatape and El Penol well worth a day trip; Sante Fe might be worth a look too (although if you've seen one small pueblo...). Probably a better option to go to Jardin. I know it's going back the way but you get to recover a missed opportunity. It's an easy enough journey from MDE.
Jardin will be done for sure - maybe as a way to recover from what looks to be a hectic saturday night in Medellin 0 -
Spent 3 months in SA about 11 years ago before heading on to New Zealand and absolutely loved it. When you said "I never travel by a Lonely Planet instead go by other travellers advice. But only travellers I know I am similar to.
I avoid the irish party hostels like the PLAGUE." I agreed with 100%, while it is nice to bump into people from home every now and then I wouldn't go seeking them out and so many do, it baffles me.
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I spent 6 weeks in Argentina - Ushuaia was a real highlight. I loved Peru and Boliva- unfortunately didn't get to Colombia - but hope to some day.[/font]
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I'm going to PM you for your blog address if that is OK?[/font]
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]So my question... how often would you treat yourself to the full cama?[/font]
[font=Open Sans, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Safe travels - looking forward to the updates![/font]
I wouldn't mind putting the blog on here, will run it past Niamh but sure thing, PM and I'd be happy to share
I actually cama quite regularly, I know #flashpack! But the way I see it, night busses absolutely murder me, even Cama. So if there is any chance I can sleep I take it. I usually travel through the day lately, find it better on the ole body.
I didn't get to Patagonia - I am saving that and the entire Chile for another trip. I was just ill prepared and in July it was mostly unpassable. I've heard the most amazing stories tho - and the pictures are beautiful!0 -
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funkey_monkey wrote: »Do you speak Spanish fluently?
I've been to Peru, Chile, Argentina and Bolivia and without the guides I would have been stuffed.
Saying things is one aspect, understanding the reply is something else. I also felt I missed out on some great conversations with locals due to my lack of Spanish. Still deeply regret this years later
I've always felt very aware when out and about. Being a pale faced gringo does get you a lot of stares and looks. However, I've only had a few people hassling me to buy stuff or begging, so it has not been too bad.
I understand what you mean about Argentina. Never really liked it or the people.
Loved Bolivia, although in all my travels it is the only time I got food poisoning. Lying on a boat on Lake Titicaca puking and skittering was not the dream.
Who did you socialise at night with? I am a bit older than you and prefer to stay in hotels - meaning that I never got the whole hostel party crowd to interact with. My evenings were a mixture of dining alone and/or a walk along some of the main streets.
I loved some of the country towns in Peru and places like Potosi in Bolivia where I could sit in the plaza major in the evening and people watching. Never went to a pub or dance as I felt I would be too vunerable.
At times I felt that a companion to share the experiences with would have made good trips/experiences soo much better. Although the alternative would be sitting at home...
I've been to Cuba too, so if you have any questions, just ask
Hi!
Great post, thank you
My Spanish is fine now, thank god. I spent 3 weeks in an intensive course in Bolivia but didn't really use it again until Ecuador. Thats the thing with SA, you are always surrounded by English speaking travellers in hostels and the locals you meet always speak English to you if they can as they are so proud! But I found few who had English in Ecuador and here in Colombia I dated a local who had no Spanish so I had no choice but to learn, and fast!
I still only believe I have basics though and similar to you, feel I missed out on real connection many times. I should have taken more courses before coming here but I thought I'd be fine. It is a wonderful language though, I don't think I will ever stop learning it.
Today was a pretty bad day for the gringo-spotting. I had comments and catcalls for 3 hours before I almost ran back to my hostel. Some places worse than others, Bolivia I found the best for a single white female. The local men there were almost afraid to look at you (maybe cos I am bigger than most of them haha!!)
I am a bit of a nana traveller and usually in bed by 10ish, I love my sleep. I also have been lucky to make friends easy so if I find a good crew in a hostel that are heading out I will join in. I've not had many MASSIVE party nights, most of the best craic I've had have been in hostels.
Cuba may be scrapped this time - I am seriously low on days and moving way too slowly. BUT I will keep you in mind for when I do attack it, surely in the coming year or so 0 -
corks finest wrote: »Germans etc more money to splash I guess
Mmm.. would you think?! I don't know - I always put it down to them having 80mil so they could spare 1 or 2 mil rambling around South America 0 -
What's your favourite type of cheese?
On your travels what is the most peculiar/weirdest type of cheese you've encountered?
Have you come across any really good cheesemongers and if so, what country has the most?
SO MANY CHEESE THEMED QUESTIONS!
I wouldn't be a massive lover of cheese TBF . . but if my life depended on it I would say haloumi.
Cheese here in general is terrible. Colombia have a lot of goat cheeses which aren't bad, but they're still nothing on the quality we have at home.
They also love those plastic cheese in wrapper single things.
I am sorry, I feel I am disappointing you in my answers to your cheestions.0 -
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stop animal cruelty wrote: »Did u make a detailed plan before( e.g. booked a hostel in very place u planned to travel to). u arrived in SA or just went with the flow?
Where do u keep ur cash? Or just use a bank card??
Hey, thanks for the questions
I booked 1 night accommodation in a private room at a hostel in BA when I landed and 6 more in a dorm. Which, hindsight was a bad idea as I didn't fall in love with BA and 7 days is quite a long time there. I had 6m to plan my trip before flying out but I didn't actually plan the itinerary, i just go with the flow. If someone has been to X town and thinks its worth a visit then I go . . I love being so fluid and free in that regard
I have an NZ and an Irish account. I left my flipping bank card in a bank in Bolivia... so stupid, but lucky I had another account in NZ I could transfer the funds to.
Lately I've also (naughtily!) been using my credit card...! 0 -
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makeorbrake wrote: »Can I pick your brains once again? I've been so lax in terms of prep'ing for this trip ....I've done no research whatsoever. I usually just look stuff up before I move somewhere...that's the extent of it.
Going to leave Cali behind. Did you stay anywhere between Cali and the border? eg. Popayan, Pasto or Ipiales? What's to check out?....are one or more of them worth stopping off in?
We travel very similarly then
I took a very dangerous night bus from Ipiales to Cali - which I absoluetly shouldn't have done as its notorious for hijack. But it took me hours to cross the border and I just wanted to move.
Oh the border. Oh my heart. Okay, you have probably heard about the Venezuelans making the border longer right? I crossed in the other direction from Ecuador and got there at 6am, it took me 6hours. To walk about 200m. BUT, I was crossing for a holiday these people flee for their lives. It humbles you SO much!
My advise is to get there as early as you can. That means staying a night in Ipiales which isn't a bad spot and the church is flipping stunning. The entry and exit line is the same line, an the Colombian side and Ecuador side are as bad as each other. I've heard reports of 2h and 12h in recent weeks so there is no rhyme nor reason.
When you get to Ecuador the nearest town is Tulcan but its a bit of a dive (as all border towns are!) I stayed in a fairly decent hotel across from the bus station for 15USD private room. The bus from Tulcan to Quito takes 5hrs.0 -
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Brazil
This one is so hard as I did so much ..... top 5 is almost impossible.
But here goes
1 Salvador. AMAZING city!
2 Cristo
3 Beaches of Praia do Forte, Bahia.
4 Sunset over Rio from Sugar Loaf
5 Beaches of Barra do Lagoa, Florianopolis0 -
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Getting grumpy in my old age so I need my comforts...so may not stay at the hostel depending on whats available #flashpacker!I volunteered at Beehive Hostel in Sucre and they also arrange tuition. Get this, I had 1:1 tuition with a university professor for 2h a day for ... drum roll please... 8EUR . . so, 4EUR an hour! I wanted originally to do 4h per day but its so taxing on the brain that the 2h was enough. It was perfect!
However, I'll take the tuition all day long. Can't pass up an opportunity like that. I had been told to wait until Equador/Bolivia for this alright. Would solve 2 problems;
1. I need to engage with something. When you're travelling for a year, the dynamic is different. It's ok being on the beer for a month or so but after that, need a sense of purpose as when out of routine, I find it very hard so stay away from the grog (when a beer is 80 cents or less).
2. Get to improve my Spanish for next to nothing.
I thought those days were over? Is this guerrilla related or just opportunist bandits? I know the FARC have taken the peace process route but talks with the ELN broke down..and if memory serves me, they're active down that corner..?We travel very similarly then
I took a very dangerous night bus from Ipiales to Cali - which I absoluetly shouldn't have done as its notorious for hijack. But it took me hours to cross the border and I just wanted to move.
For the benefit of people back home, what is going on in Venezuela is a complete and utter travesty. Having spend a month in Panama and another month in Colombia, the amount of Venezuelans that are in both countries (and scattered throughout S./C. America) is unreal..and they're pretty desperate. Nicolas Maduro and his cronies is/are robbing their own people blind. I don't think it's getting the publicity it deserves in the International Media. Not only is it a case that westerners can't travel to Venezuela, displaced Venezuelans won't go home as if they come back, they will be targeted. The rationale being that if you've been outside the country and come back, you'll have brought $$ with you. They'll turn you upside down for that $$. A friend of a Japanese traveller I met was robbed in his own hotel in Venezueala. It got worse...later on, he was kidnapped! It took a major effort to get him released.Oh the border. Oh my heart. Okay, you have probably heard about the Venezuelans making the border longer right? ....BUT, I was crossing for a holiday these people flee for their lives. It humbles you SO much!
Ipiales it is. I have time so for comfort, I don't mind stopping there. Did you stop anywhere else between Ipiales and Cali? eg. Pasto or Popayan? Any value in stopping in those places?My advise is to get there as early as you can. That means staying a night in Ipiales which isn't a bad spot and the church is flipping stunning.
I guess if I don't have enough daylight hours left to move on from Tulcan, then I'll make a utility stop there.When you get to Ecuador the nearest town is Tulcan but its a bit of a dive (as all border towns are!) I stayed in a fairly decent hotel across from the bus station for 15USD private room. The bus from Tulcan to Quito takes 5hrs.
- would you have any objection to swapping email addresses if I PM you? You have done the route I'm taking (in reverse). Given that it's relatively fresh in your mind, the intel you have is pure gold to me. In return, any info on Panama I can provide.
- how did you swap from Brazil to the West Coast? Did you skip Chile completely?0 -
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Not to be a Nervous Nellie or anything but are you still planning to go to Honduras? It’s homicide rate is very high. At least in South Africa, I know what some of the people are saying so I can get a heads up.
Hiya Thanks for your question and your concern. Yes I am... I've heard amazing things about it! Again tho, will depend on the speed I move myself.
I believe as long as you keep your witts about you, 9.9/10 you are fine. Lets hope that remains true!0 -
mistersifter wrote: »great thread. Shame that you didnt take to Argentina - it's a brilliant country.
Buenos Aires is undeniably "European" - its the capital of a country founded on immigration from Europe. Areas like Recoleta and Palermo, for example, are like Madrid to look at. Other areas are more 'indigenous' Latin American and these tend to be poorer areas.
Buenos Aires is also a city that you need to spend some time in and get to know. I can tell you after spending a few years there that 7 days is nothing there. It's huge and I wouldnt even know where to start with advising you what to do there. What did you do in BS AS? One of the things I loved about it is that it never sleeps.
Argentinian people are great craic. It's ridiculously easy to make contacts and form social circles there. I always found them very eager to know why you are there too and chuffed that you chose their country. They do have a reputation for being very big-headed, which they will admit to being!
There is so much outside of BS AS too, so I'd highly recommend Argentina to anyone thinking about it.
Hey!
100% agree that 7 days iant enough to see a city but I simply didnt like it. As i said earlier, it may be because it was the beginning of my trip but I never warmed to Argentina, even when I went back after Uruguay, Brazil and 6 weeks on thr road.
I have wonderful Argie friends who are gems, one of them showed me BA. We danced tango almost nightly, San Telmo sunday markets, Boca, i spent a few hrs at the Cemetary, quite liked Palermo, did a walking tour. I also spent 2 days in the delta at Tigre where my friend has her holiday home.
I will return back as I want to do Patagonia. Maybe it will grow on me! 0 -
mistersifter wrote: »great thread. Shame that you didnt take to Argentina - it's a brilliant country.
Buenos Aires is undeniably "European" - its the capital of a country founded on immigration from Europe. Areas like Recoleta and Palermo, for example, are like Madrid to look at. Other areas are more 'indigenous' Latin American and these tend to be poorer areas.
Buenos Aires is also a city that you need to spend some time in and get to know. I can tell you after spending a few years there that 7 days is nothing there. It's huge and I wouldnt even know where to start with advising you what to do there. What did you do in BS AS? One of the things I loved about it is that it never sleeps.
Argentinian people are great craic. It's ridiculously easy to make contacts and form social circles there. I always found them very eager to know why you are there too and chuffed that you chose their country. They do have a reputation for being very big-headed, which they will admit to being!
There is so much outside of BS AS too, so I'd highly recommend Argentina to anyone thinking about it.
Hey!
100% agree that 7 days iant enough to see a city but I simply didnt like it. As i said earlier, it may be because it was the beginning of my trip but I never warmed to Argentina, even when I went back after Uruguay, Brazil and 6 weeks on thr road.
I have wonderful Argie friends who are gems, one of them showed me BA. We danced tango almost nightly, San Telmo sunday markets, Boca, i spent a few hrs at the Cemetary, quite liked Palermo, did a walking tour. I also spent 2 days in the delta at Tigre where my friend has her holiday home.
I will return back as I want to do Patagonia. Maybe it will grow on me! 0 -
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I will return back as I want to do Patagonia. Maybe it will grow on me!
I hope it does! If you get a chance (although it seems unlikely at this point!) Cordoba is good. Not the city, but the towns on the outskirts like Villa Carlos Paz you can see some beautiful places. Didnt find out if you went to Bariloche but that's beautiful too and might be easier for you to pass through.
Enjoy and take care!0 -
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Blackeyemac wrote: »Lovin' this thread, keeping up with yer adventures.. Have you heard of Spencer James Conway? just back from year and half motorbiking around South America, enjoyed his stuff too on FB. Very funny guy.. enjoy your travels.
I haven't! I shall check him out 0 -
Duffy the Vampire Slayer wrote: »It really isn't these days. It's nowhere close to even being the most dangerous in Colombia.
Totally! But, when you're travelling all day, have been in a bus crash and are arriving at night, after months of reading all literature you can find on Escobar and the war on drugs.... well then your imagination runs wild.
Now I've been here 2 days I can report I LOVE THE CITY. I may never leave 0 -
Ecuador
Ecuador confused me, I felt the culture blended into a mix of Peru and Colombia. It also left me broke as I did 2 weeks in Galapagos. I will post the Top 5 pics from Galapagos separately but for now my favourite Ecuador pics!
1 Quilitoa Loop. Similarly to Peru, I trekked what felt like the entire country. This trek took my breath away, probably my favourite trek I've done so far.
2 Christmas in Cuenca. Even the goats get amongst
3 Vilcabamba. STUNNING part of the South. The mountains - oh my heart!
4 Banos. Good spot. Climbed lots of rocks
5 I ADORED QUITO! And I am not usually a fan of capital cities but this was unbelievably beautiful.0 -
Galapagos!
This one is HHAARRDD!! I cruised for 6 days and stayed island bound for 8, each day was different and simply magical.
I also have some amazing dive videos.... but they are the wrong format
After going back over these about a hundred times, they aren't the best 5. I couldn't pick. There are SO many....!
1 Sea lion asleep on the beach. We saw this x 1,000.
2 This beach was ..... I N C R E D I B L E. Sand was that white. Water was that clear.
3 A proud pelican.
4 Our first snorkelling spot and island stop on our cruise. This beach and this setting will always have a special place in my heart.
5 We saw and swam with tens if not close to a hundred of turtles.0 -
Last pic spam I promise - Colombia
1 Filandia A beauty of a town. The entire country is this colourful tho!
2 Cocora Valley. The wax palm trees are a sight to be seen!
3 Never knew how much of a streetart fan I was until I hit this continent. These people are talented, man! Some Cali grafitti for you.
4 Ipiales Church. A beauty.
5 Medellin. Today
Also, I am okay with my blog being posted here. It's www.gingergypsy.ie
Of course it waives all anonymity but I'm a pretty open book. But, if any of you know my family and tell my Mammy I've been carrying on with Latino men I will choke ye 0 -
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Mariethorn wrote: »I’m going travelling around South America in 5 weeks time for 6/7 weeks, starting in Lima and working our way down to bolivia and then flying up to Colombia. We plan on doing Machu Picchu, rainbow mountain, death road etc so a good few activities, just wanted to know how necessary hiking boots are? Can you make do with a good pair of runners instead?
WONDERFUL question! I say this because for the 6m before my trip I ANTAGONIZED over this!
Firstly, I paid over $200NZD for Asics cross trainers that were told to be the creme of the crop, runners and great for hiking which I thought would serve me well. Until I noticed they were quite slippy. Worst was when I was walking down the street in Salvador in Brazil on a wet day, slipped on a drain and wore my assbone off the ground. A a cute old Brazilian man who had been casually drinking from his coconut rushed to my aid, dropping the coconut on me in the process almost knocking me out and SOAKING me in coconut water. JOY!
Anyway. After that I bought hiking boots. And while I had a shocking 2m breaking them in I legitimately would have been lost without them.
You never know when the monsoons will come, nor when you have to cross a stream or walk through wades of donkey sh!t.
Hiking boots all. the. way. Every day. But get them from a reputable retailer and break them in well beforehand. Soloman are a good brand as are Keen and Merril. I got North Face on special in Peru (USD70 for a brand new pair from the real NF shop) and as I said they murdered me to break in.
Anyway, hope that helps. If you need any more packing tips let me know... 12 months / 46L. I'm deathly proud of that 0 -
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