Project bike

magicbastarder · 16-10-2020 8:38pm

Blanchy90 wrote: »

How much paint would you need for a frame and fork?

i found that a standard small can was enough for my bike - i used etch primer first, then the paint coat, and sprayed lacquer over the top.

one thing that surprised me - not having done this before - is how long it takes for the paint to cure. i.e. even after the paint has been on for a couple of days, spraying fresh paint over it can liquefy the layer underneath.
i think my paint can claims seven days to fully cure, and the lacquer 14 days.

Blanchy90 · 17-10-2020 9:14pm

8valve wrote: »

the beauty of Montana cans is that, as graffiti paint, they're extremely opaque, require no primer, stick to nearly everything, and are very resistant to the elements..

remember, this stuff has to be blasted off subway carriages in New York!

I painted an entire VW Transporter using 18 Montana cans a few years ago and it lasted for years.

I would recommend you overcoat it with montana clear gloss varnish/lacquer to avoid oil from the bike components staining the paint, as it has a natural satin/matt finish.

No primer? Sounds ideal ha I'll order some in the next couple of days.

I'm getting excited about this project again. I have a Kellys arc 10 for the road now so I'm not sure what I'll use this one for when I'm done.

@magicblaster thanks for the tip on the drying time. It'll be out in the shed so it'll be slow to dry with the colder weather too

magicbastarder · 17-10-2020 10:21pm

i've taken the frame indoors to leave it sit for a week anyway. the paint is usually touch dry quite quickly, but the lacquer still felt tacky hours later.

2 Wheels Good · 18-10-2020 12:48am

I bought paint from spray.bike and extra primer / clear coat from Vinny Byrne in Dublin, found them reasonable and super fast delivery even during lockdown.

I ended up using about 1 ½ tins of primer as i cleaned a lot of rust off it so really don't want it coming back.
Went with 2 colours, frame/fork so had plenty in a tin of each.
For the clear coat i ended up buying a tin of 2k off Vinny Byrne instead of the Spray.bike transparent finish as 2k has a tougher finish.

Harrybelafonte · 18-10-2020 9:29am

I believe artmaterials.ie are cheaper than Vinny Byrne for Montana

magicbastarder · 18-10-2020 10:15am

vinny byrne were more expensive than my local motor factors place too, but my local motor factors place stock two brands, and vinny byrne probably stock 15 or more; not so much of an issue if you're buying online, but i had called around so it was easier then to buy in vinny byrnes (who also gave me good advice in person).

Blanchy90 · 18-10-2020 12:15pm

I had planned to go with spray.bike but the fact that the Irish suppliers the have on their website don't stock it (and never have) really put me off them

8valve · 18-10-2020 3:38pm

graff-city in the UK have a humongous stock of Montana cans; that's where i got them for painting the van.

Cahills art shop in Tramore ( not sure if they do online sales) just got a big Montana delivery in the last couple of weeks, too...was out there like a kid in a sweet shop recently. €6.99 a can!

Treat yourself by spending an extra fiver on a pistol-grip rattlecan holder as well; allows for greater control when spraying, fits 99.99% of rattlecans out there....and stops the tip of your finger getting numb!!

magicbastarder · 21-10-2020 3:44pm

was looking at getting a headset for the bike, and read this comment and another few like it on chain reaction cycles; is that likely to be an issue on a british frame?

"if like me you decided to take on a resto-project, just make sure your frame is ISO 1 inch and not JIS 1 inch (26.4mm vs 27mm). It is possible to use the ISO with at JIS spec frame, but you have to sand down the cup frame plugs to allow them to fit into the frame. You may also have to do the same with the fork crown racer. It is a massive hassle so best off just getting a JIS version!"

also, any other sites to recommend for buying older spec components? CRC seem to be sold out of a lot of their 1" threaded headsets.

jimm · 21-10-2020 10:43pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

was looking at getting a headset for the bike, and read this comment and another few like it on chain reaction cycles; is that likely to be an issue on a british frame?

"if like me you decided to take on a resto-project, just make sure your frame is ISO 1 inch and not JIS 1 inch (26.4mm vs 27mm). It is possible to use the ISO with at JIS spec frame, but you have to sand down the cup frame plugs to allow them to fit into the frame. You may also have to do the same with the fork crown racer. It is a massive hassle so best off just getting a JIS version!"

also, any other sites to recommend for buying older spec components? CRC seem to be sold out of a lot of their 1" threaded headsets.

Can't help with your first question but I bought a Campagnolo Record headset from Pro Bike Kit for an Olmo Competition which I am restoring. Want to keep frame parts Italian as much as possible.

https://www.probikekit.co.uk/cycling-headsets/campagnolo-record-threaded-bicycle-headset/10779467.html

magicbastarder · 22-10-2020 9:15pm

i stuck the old one back on. it's a bit rusty and slightly notchy, but definitely usable.

this evening i''ll be trying to get the seat tube to happily take the seat post. i had to stand the frame upside down and stand on the saddle to get leverage to work the seatpost out when i was disassembling, and it's similarly tight trying to reinsert one. can get one in by hand but it's tight enough that it's scoring the seatpost again, so i'll have to dig around to see if i can get some double sided tape to tape some sandpaper to a broomstick as a rudimentary way of cleaning/fractionally reaming the inside of the tube.

iwillhtfu · 22-10-2020 9:52pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i'll have to dig around to see if i can get some double sided tape to tape some sandpaper to a broomstick as a rudimentary way of cleaning/fractionally reaming the inside of the tube.

Just spray in a bunch of degreaser and feed a cloth in and twist most of it will just come away without major drama. Gently prise open the top of the seat tube also it may have been over tightened at some point.

magicbastarder · 22-10-2020 10:16pm

Cheers, I superglued some 120 grit to a broomstick and have given the inside of the tube a good clean but it's only had a minor effect. Time for some brute force.

Type 17 · 23-10-2020 1:04pm

On steel frames, it's worth checking if the seatpost clamp was over-tightened in the past, leading to the rear two ears (either side of the notch at the rear of the seat tube) being closed in a bit too much, making scoring/stiffness an issue. If so, they can be fettled out a bit.

8valve · 24-10-2020 5:41pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

Cheers, I superglued some 120 grit to a broomstick and have given the inside of the tube a good clean but it's only had a minor effect. Time for some brute force.

RJ the Bike Guy had a video of a section of wire coat hanger with a small loop at one end, holding some coarse wire wool, with the other end in a cordless drill; seemed to do a good job of cleaning up the inside of a steel seat tube of decades of rust/gunk/neglect.

As Type17 mentioned above, seat post clamp lug may be slightly crushed also. the beauty of steel is its malleability, so what is bent, can often be bent back into correct form, within reason.

cletus · 24-10-2020 5:49pm

Re. cleaning the inside of the seat tube, if you can get one of these, it should be easy enough to extend the shaft

61p7fCmcthL._AC_SY400_.jpg

magicbastarder · 24-10-2020 6:07pm

cheers, got sorted. a few whacks on the broomstick with a wooden mallet, when it was in the tube, seems to have done the job. it was a combination of corrosion and the ears being tightened in a little too much.

magicbastarder · 24-10-2020 7:02pm

i'm at the point now where i'm starting to build up a shopping list of required parts based on what i have ruled in and ruled out. i picked up a cheap set of handlebars with some suicide levers the other day, but as i'm finding, a lot of parts are very sloppy or worn feeling, and it's usually down to worn bushings and the like. there's original altus shifters on the bike, but one side is a little sloppy and the other side loosens ever so slightly every time you change gear. i'll be able to bodge some fixes there though i reckon.

i've been browsing bankruptbikeparts, and sjscycles - as well as adverts - but this is a real newbie question. on brake levers like these (i'm not considering these ones!), they're missing the mechanism, usually a barrel adjuster on a flat bar brake, which would stop the cable housing from sliding into the lever body; are these easily found?

https://www.adverts.ie/other-bike-parts-accessories/vintage-bike-brake-levers/17840732

Type 17 · 24-10-2020 7:08pm

The wider style of ferrule for these older levers are still available - a good LBS should have them. Get aluminium ones, the plastic ones eventually break. Barrel adjusters are fitted there on some older French/Dutch bikes, but are not that common.

magicbastarder · 24-10-2020 9:57pm

and i decided this evening i'd just nick the wheels from the dawes i'd promised to 8valve, but as it turns out, the frame i'm working on has a 125mm spacing on the rear dropouts but the rear hub from the dawes is 135mm. and i'm not at the point where i want to try cold setting.

magicbastarder · 24-10-2020 11:33pm

decided to strip down the (supposedly not user serviceable) BB that came on the bike - it just felt a bit dry rather than loose or grindy. and it was much easier to take apart than expected, as per the video; mine was identical to strip down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lar7mIMmTRE

Blanchy90 · 25-10-2020 4:03pm

Finally some progress on my project

Very impressed with the Montana spray cans it was touch dry in 2-3 minutes

cletus · 25-10-2020 4:11pm

I like that colour

8valve · 25-10-2020 4:48pm

Blanchy90 wrote: »

Finally some progress on my project

Very impressed with the Montana spray cans it was touch dry in 2-3 minutes

Love it. Well done, that man!

8valve · 25-10-2020 4:49pm

cletus wrote: »

I like that colour

Me too; not a million miles away from Bianchi Celeste.

magicbastarder · 25-10-2020 5:58pm

did you do the fork in the same colour?

Blanchy90 · 25-10-2020 6:10pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

did you do the fork in the same colour?

I haven't yet but I was planning to. Do you have a different suggestion?

Blanchy90 · 30-10-2020 5:35pm

I've done another couple of light coats on the frame and I'm very happy with it.

I'm going to start ordering parts soon, I'll need to see what's worth keeping and what needs to be replaced.

I definitely need new headset bearings

I don't know what I'm looking at haha any help on what I need to order would be much appreciated.

I think I'll pick up cheap handlebars and leavers on Amazon, or would I be better off going second hand?

cletus · 30-10-2020 5:43pm

Blanchy90 wrote: »

I've done another couple of light coats on the frame and I'm very happy with it.

I'm going to start ordering parts soon, I'll need to see what's worth keeping and what needs to be replaced.

I definitely need new headset bearings

I don't know what I'm looking at haha any help on what I need to order would be much appreciated.

I think I'll pick up cheap handlebars and leavers on Amazon, or would I be better off going second hand?

Why are you sure the bearings are shot? I'd clean them up and have a look then.

Blanchy90 · 30-10-2020 5:49pm

cletus wrote: »

Why are you sure the bearings are shot? I'd clean them up and have a look then.

They're at least 10 years old and I'm pretty sure there's ball bearings missing from it.

New ones are cheap too so I thought I'd be better off replacing it. I'll clean it up and see how it looks

8valve · 30-10-2020 6:27pm

Bike shops will stock packs of bearings held in a 'cage'; much handier than flootering about with loose balls.....oooooh matron!

Bring your headset cups and one of the old bearings with you and they should be able to sort you out.

dave_o_brien · 09-11-2020 4:41pm

I thought I'd contribute with my own project here. Inspired by the above, I picked up a modern(ish) steel frame and decided to personalise to a larger degree than I normally would:

Happy so far. Plan is to build in mostly Ultegra 6800 from current bikes and rebuild them another day.

magicbastarder · 09-11-2020 4:50pm

nice!
where did you get the frame?

dave_o_brien · 09-11-2020 4:52pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

nice!
where did you get the frame?

I got it through adverts.ie 2nd hand. A load of them were made in around 2012 for a shop in London, but the brand seemed to fade from view shortly thereafter.

dave_o_brien · 13-11-2020 3:02pm

Quick update below

cletus · 13-11-2020 4:26pm

Looks great so far

dave_o_brien · 13-11-2020 10:12pm

cletus wrote: »

Looks great so far

Thanks! Happy so far. Not as light as my TCR but far from heavy. Besides, I'm no featherweight myself!

iwillhtfu · 13-11-2020 10:20pm

Duck tape was probably not the best idea for the bands but it kind of worked out. If you haven't cleared coated it yet you could wet sand to smooth that transition a bit. Taking the tape off while it's still wet will help also.

A nice colour though, well done.

dave_o_brien · 13-11-2020 10:33pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Duck tape was probably not the best idea for the bands but it kind of worked out. If you haven't cleared coated it yet you could wet sand to smooth that transition a bit. Taking the tape off while it's still wet will help also.

A nice colour though, well done.

Yeah, I'd do a few things differently now alright! I did sand the transitions a bit and clear coated alright. It's imperfect in terms of the finish but it's not bad at all.

dave_o_brien · 14-11-2020 6:15pm

It's functional! Still a few bits to finish but it works

cletus · 14-11-2020 6:21pm

Lovely job, really like that colour

dave_o_brien · 14-11-2020 6:40pm

cletus wrote: »

Lovely job, really like that colour

Montana Tennessee, if you're ever tempted

jimm · 14-11-2020 7:14pm

dave_o_brien wrote: »

It's functional! Still a few bits to finish but it works

Bar tape, a few cable end crimp thingies and switch your front qr skewer to the opp side

. Does everyone put both on the LHS, or is it only the rear one that needs to be on the left?

magicbastarder · 14-11-2020 7:20pm

I always set mine to match the back wheel.

Type 17 · 14-11-2020 7:34pm

Rear skewer levers were on the non-drive side to keep hands away from sharp/oily bits, and the front is traditionally kept the same for orderliness, but there is no technical or safety reason for the front to be on the left.

Disc brakes and some thru-axle designs may now mean a right-side front on some bikes, but even then, they probably could have been designed the other way if required.

dave_o_brien · 14-11-2020 7:53pm

jimm wrote: »

Bar tape, a few cable end crimp thingies and switch your front qr skewer to the opp side . Does everyone put both on the LHS, or is it only the rear one that needs to be on the left?

Haha! I know! I actually can't remember spotting it when installing the wheel but then looked at the photo and cringed!

Also needs bottle cages and a garmin mount. Stem may be 10mm short too, but we'll see.

dave_o_brien · 15-11-2020 5:49pm

Tape, cages and garmin on.

Fugs!! · 15-11-2020 6:04pm

That's lovely.

magicbastarder · 03-12-2020 12:05am

picked up brake levers and a front and rear derailleur for my bike today. the rear derailleur was utterly caked in long dried crud, but i have it clean now; but have run into a problem in that the bolt for the cable clamp is stuck tight. it started to round when i tried a spanner on it and similar when i tried a screwdriver. i guess it's just oil and time i need?
the chap who sold it to me is happy to take it back if there are any problems but i don't want to give up easily on it.

Effects · 04-12-2020 3:56pm

Would you try a vice grips rather than a spanner?

Project bike

Comments