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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,182 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    not a question, just a pleasant maintenance task completed - i took the fork off the winter bike to check the headset, which is original to the bike (bought new in late 2014 AFAIK); and it's a task i'd had on the mental checklist for probably a year or two, it's been at *least* two years since i last looked. so i was thinking 'what horror awaits here' and i was pleasantly surprised to find it's still pristine; didn't even need new grease.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,564 ✭✭✭RugbyLover123


    Has anyone picked up a bike gps from Decathalon? If so, would you recommend? I saw for €50 today, I’d only want one to tell me distance and time really. I got on on Amazon for like €30 a few months back and it only last 3 rides.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,182 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    If you just need distance and time, you probably don't even need gps, just a basic bike computer which calculates distance and speed using a sensor counting wheel revolutions. Gps - especially if you can upload to one of the fitness tracker sites - may be more useful though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Yeah if you don't want anything fancy I'd just use Strava and stick it in your pocket.

    If you want it on your bike, you can get very good phone mounts.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I presume it was something like this?

    A dedicated GPS dose have a major advantage over a phone which is battery life no way a phone would last anywhere near as long a dedicated GPS unit plus when you pair it with a speed sensor it's more accurate than just relying on GPS for speed and distance.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,182 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    my cheapo garmin would not last nearly as long on a charge as my phone does.

    a speed sensor, one based on a magnet on the wheel, will be more accurate for speed over short (or very short) distances, but GPS will be more accurate over long distances.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,863 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    Covid idleness got the better of me and I said I'd see how much rims had worn.

    They felt concave and front wheel braking felt odd.


    It is hard to know how much of surface is left without getting hacksaw out

    Quite a bit but not sure if it was enough!

    Circa 0.9mm wear and about the same left.

    Yeah I know I need a new blade 🙂



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,182 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i wouldn't be riding on that rim again if i were you.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,458 ✭✭✭✭AndrewJRenko


    Thanks for the suggestions. I've put a patch over it, so hopefully that will be enough. I'm due back at the dentist next week, so I'll ask them to have a go at it with the Dremel maybe? ;-)

    Almost looks like a drop of solder or something, but I can't think how it got in that location, and how I didn't notice it for two years!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    I've a Dremel, and like every other offer I've made on boards, if you're anywhere near Naas, pm and we can sort something out



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,458 ✭✭✭✭AndrewJRenko




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Front wheel was jumping a small bit on breaking and discovered a small dent and raised spot on the braking surface where it must have taken a bang. Smoother it out as best I can but a little worried about the small chip out of it. Thoughts on this and if I need a new rim/wheel




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    I'd imagine it's small enough that it won't make any difference. What thickness is left on the braking surface? The pads will do a fair job if evening it out over time



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 956 ✭✭✭nicksnikita




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    That’s what I was hoping to hear. I think there’s a decent amount left still on the braking surface. Light file and sand brought down the raised edge and didn’t seem to affect braking too much today. Thanks again



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 650 ✭✭✭jimm


    Isn't that a wear indicator on the rims braking surface?

    I.E. when it's worn away and no longer visible, the wheel is not safe to ride.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    If it were just an indentation, it could well be that, but the post described a "raised spot" which wouldn't correspond to the wear indicator.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,997 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    Yeah no it’s not the wear indicator. On these rims There’s a line around them which is the west indicator. This was definitely a bang as the material which had filled that spot was raised up and I could feel the breaks hitting it every rotation until I cleaned it up.


    pretty sure on the tyre you can see some signs of the same bang as the rim as it’s a bit scuffed there

    Post edited by 68 lost souls on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    This is sort of a cross between a stupid question and Today I Did Something...


    Shifting on the rear derailleur is off a little in some of the middle cogs. Figured too much slack in the cable, maybe, so threw the bike in the stand, chain on smallest cog, took out the slack and wound in the barrel adjuster.

    Cue much feckacting around, as I tried to fettle the gear changes. Most of the difficulty is in moving back to the smallest cog.


    Watching the derailleur as I shift, it seems the derailleur is slow moving outboard. I'm thinking it may need to be taken off and cleaned.

    Other than a new cable, has anyone got any suggestions or comments?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭stevencn88


    I had a "slow" moving derailleur recently. New cable didn't completely solve the issue (it did improve a bit) but a good cleaning and a new cable had it shifting like new.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Disconnect the cable from the derailleur. Place the bike in a stand and turn the pedals. Assuming it does, move the derailleur manually and confirm that it moves up to the largest sprocket.release the derailleur and let it bring the chain back onto the smallest sprocket.

    holed the bottom of the jockey pulley cage and move it side to side (towards the spokes and back) it should feel quite rigid. If it feels loose or floppy, you may need a new derailleur. If it feels ok, hold the cable and move the shifter lever and confirm it’s operating correctly. If it feels “knotchey”, it could be a frayed inner cable wire.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,652 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Another job for when I get a chance. Old bike not happy shifting through them right



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,517 ✭✭✭hesker




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Cassette is on the bike from new, so about 1500 miles on it. Chain was replaced a little over a year ago, there's about 760 miles on it. Checked it with a chain checker, it's close to 0.5 stretch, still a way off 0.75. It's 9 speed Sora, so should be a bit of life in it yet. I think it's most likely a sticky derailleur/cable combo issue, so I'll start with the cheapest option 😁



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,182 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    so I'll start with the cheapest option

    ignoring the problem?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    Well, I'll ignore it for tomorrow morning's cycle.


    Then I might take off the derailleur and clean it ( or maybe I'll just have a cup of tea, depends)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,288 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    How often to people replace inner and outer cables? Think I'm due a full replacement as the brakes don't pull very smooth. Also think the factory cables could do with being a bit shorter to tidy up the front of the bike. I don't think it's very cheap to get a full replacement in the bike shop though even with rim brakes and basic internal routing.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,652 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Not very often.

    I've to do the back brake annually main bike. Gets a light rub where it comes out from frame.

    From the above seems I may have to do rear gear cable on old bike.

    Never done front cable or outer on a bike.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,458 ✭✭✭✭AndrewJRenko


    Just to follow up on this one, I got some expert advice, which found it to be a drop of paint, that scraped off fairly easily. Very curious that it had got there during manufacture and hadn't been noticed by anyone, including myself.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    No play in the cage, and the derailleur returns to the smallest cog when released, and not connected to the cable.

    I'm thinking that I might have inadvertently caused the issue myself. When I was initially taking slack out of the cable, I opened the cable clamp and pulled the cable tight, then tightened it back up.

    It could be that I was over enthusiastic, and that in 'neutral', as such, the cable was pulling inboard, preventing me from fully releasing the derailleur.


    I'll check it out tomorrow



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,107 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    How often to people replace inner and outer cables?

    I've had my road bike 12 years now and I've never replaced a single cable - gears and brakes all still working fine (Shimano 105).

    My hack bike, I replace them as required which is usually at least one cable a year, but it lives outside, and is a piece of junk. It also has the rear cables running open along the top of the top tube which seems a bad design (actually the road bike has them running open as well, but along the underside of the tube, don't know if that make a difference)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I've got a Shimano CS-HG-700 11-34 (11 speed) cassette on the way to me. This is 105 equivalent for 11-34. I'm a bit confused looking at the Shimano website about freehub compatibility as I know it is one of those rare cassettes that works with both 10 & 11 speed Shimano.

    I want to fit it to a normal 11-speed freehub body - do I need a spacer?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,747 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    Check it will work with your RD as well.

    Post edited by MojoMaker on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    Yes you will! But I think it will come with it.

    Edit - yes, it does come with the 1.85mm spacer. See here for HG800 which is the same.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,441 ✭✭✭Rosahane


    Any harm asking where you got it? I want to get exactly the same.

    Also, does anyone know where to get the best comparable front 36 tooth chainring? The person from whom I bought the bike had replaced the Praxis Albs 50/34 with a single 36 tooth which works perfectly for my elderly cycling. The one on it is a Hope and it doesn't have a chain guard. Does this mean I need a "Narrow Wide" type?

    Post edited by Rosahane on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Thanks all for the replies

    @Rosahane - got it on Bike24, was over 50 or even 55 euros though but that seems to be going rate for a 105-level cassette these days, they were much closer to 30 three or four years ago



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 956 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    FSA Gossamer BB30 crank removal issue:

    The retaining ring (left hand thread) is lost and the self-extracting left side crank arm won’t self-extract without the ring in place.

    Rebuilding a friends bike and he sourced a new retaining ring but the diameter is too small. The one we need is approx. M27 or M28.

    Been to all lbs within reach to no avail

    Maybe someone here has a spare I can borrow or buy? Happy to cover postage and post it back to you after using it to remove the crank if that suits.

    Cheers, Nico



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    So, I took off the derailleur, stripped it, cleaned it, and reassembled, took off the cassette and cleaned it, put in a new inner shift cable, replaced some sections of the outer (I had zero interest in removing and rewrapping bar tape), and finally, cleaned the chain while everything else was off the bike.


    Result. Shifting through all the gears, nice clean changes, no ghost shifting, no double shifting.


    I've no idea which of the things I did above fixed the problem, but it's probably a combination of all of them



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    A nice, clean machine of any kind is just my kind of thing. Beautiful!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 956 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Sorted with a hammer and a length of metal bar



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,652 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,700 ✭✭✭54and56


    Has anyone got a left Shimano shifter model ST-R7020 or ST-R8020 they'd sell me? Mine took the brunt of a sudden and unpleasant coming together with a Land Rover drivers door and is leaking hydraulic oil so needs replacing (LBS can't repair) but supplier lead times are nuts so scrambling round trying to locate one.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,182 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    how's the hand that was holding it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,700 ✭✭✭54and56


    For an old fart I managed to bale right fairly sharpish but ended up landing awkwardly on the handlebar and bending it beyond repair which didn't do my hip any favours but my hands were fine. It was possibly me landing on the handlebar which damaged the shifter. I got the handlebar replaced and but didn't spot the damage to the shifter until a few weeks later when I could feel the lever was travelling way too far before biting the brake so LBS checked it out and topped up the hydraulic oil etc but the lever travel continued to grow and the leaking oil started presenting under the hood. The conclusion is there must be a hairline or other type of fracture in the body of the shifter or perhaps a component has cracked or failed somehow.

    Bottom line is the shifter needs to be replaced but no one seems to have them in stock and the "hoped for" lead time is 3-4 months minimum 😥



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,914 ✭✭✭Russman


    Got a wheel question (apologies if its not the correct thread).

    Anyway I have a spare wheel that I've been using on the turbo trainer in the winter, so its an easy and quick swap out. Its a quick release as the bike is/was the same. However I've changed bike and the new one is thru axle. Is it possible to convert this spare wheel with a quick release skewer into one that would fit on my new bike with thru axles ? Would a good bike shop do it ? Also, the new bike is disc brake, could I still run this wheel which is non-disc on the trainer if I got a long enough thru axle, or am I just better off getting whole new "spare" wheel with disc setup ?

    Thanks



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,051 ✭✭✭cletus


    There are lots of thru axle adaptors on the market, just google thu axle adaptor


    Im not sure about the brake question. Theoretically you could, I suppose, as you dont have to brake (I assume) on the trainer. If you have haydraulic brakes, make sure to put a spacer in the caliper to prevent you inadvertantly pressing the brake lever and poppint the piston out



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    R7020 is in stock on Bike Components but not the best price going (180 or so plus delivery).

    I got a pair on Bike24 for 270 ish around Christmas



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,271 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    New spare wheel most likely - some wheels have end caps where you can swap from QR to thru axle, but this is more the case for disc wheels. If it is an older rim brake wheel then very likely it will only work on QR



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,700 ✭✭✭54and56




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,914 ✭✭✭Russman


    Cheers guys, thanks for that. Will let a shop have a look at it I guess and see what's doable (or not !)



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