STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Stove Fan · 01-10-2012 4:40pm

caitb wrote: »

Thanks Stoveman for earlier reply. Is there any make you would recommend? The Stanley man didnt appear so I'm still in limbo re the make of stove I will go for. Someone recommended a DRU (I never heard of).So if you could maybe list a few of the good makes (parts easily bought etc)I'll start again.

TIA Cait

Hi, I noted the stanley lismore is a 12kw stove so a big heat output for a large room.

What is your budget for just the stove?
What is your actual room size where the stove is going? Are there doors leading off which are left open? Do you want some of the heat to spread to other rooms by leaving the doors open?

Stove Fan:)

caitb · 01-10-2012 7:27pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, I noted the stanley lismore is a 12kw stove so a big heat output for a large room.

What is your budget for just the stove?
What is your actual room size where the stove is going? Are there doors leading off which are left open? Do you want some of the heat to spread to other rooms by leaving the doors open?

Stove Fan:)

Our budget all in is c.€2000 (hopefully)
The stove is mainly to heat the living room (17x18). The kitchen(24x12) and sunroom(16x16) are off this room and we'd hope the heat would kind of flow through. I'm really astray looking and pricing these.
Thanks Cait

Stove Fan · 01-10-2012 10:52pm

caitb wrote: »

Our budget all in is c.€2000 (hopefully)
The stove is mainly to heat the living room (17x18). The kitchen(24x12) and sunroom(16x16) are off this room and we'd hope the heat would kind of flow through. I'm really astray looking and pricing these.
Thanks Cait

Your living room requires 5kw to heat this space. Your kitchen also requires 4.7kw to heat it too. The sunroom requires 4kw to heat it.

The total heat requirement of all 3 rooms is. 13.7kw.

If you went for a stove of this high heat your living room with the stove would be unbearably hot as to heat this room only requires a stove with a 5kw output.
I personally would look for a stove with a max output of 8Kw. The extra 3kw would escape to the other room with the door open.

If you have double doors to the kitchen or open plan to the kitchen I would get a stove with a heat output of 10kw.

The woodwarm Enigma multifuel is in your budget. The stove is £900 in the Uk and available to buy at Cork stoves and fires, Cork.

If I was buying a stove this manufacturer would be my first choice. The enigma has a multiroll grate with two settings Ie grate position Flat for burning wood and the grate bars vertical for burning coal.
The glass is double glazed like clearview stoves and it features a great airwash to keep the glass clean. Also riddling grate.

http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/wildwood-range1/enigma8kwfreestanding.ashx
One burning here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glXbfrNESys

The charnwood island 2 is a superb stove but may be too pricy at £1,500. It depends on installation requirements.
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-ii.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=charnwood+island&oq=charnwood+island&gs_l=youtube.1.0.0l2.529.7384.0.9352.16.12.0.4.4.0.609.2867.2j4j2j2j1j1.12.0...0.0...1ac.1.KxPKW0mceqw

The clearview vision 500 gets fab reviews although similar price to the Charnwood.
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/vision500.htm
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=clearview+vision+500&oq=clearview+vision&gs_l=youtube.1.0.0.2832.11540.0.13259.26.19.0.5.5.2.303.2490.0j11j2j1.14.0...0.0...1ac.1.9XkS5sg2k3I
Clearview have a very good reputation for quality and function and retain their used prices very well.

I don't have any direct experiance with Stanley, Boru and Blacksmith so would only recommend stoves that I would be happy to buy and recommend.

Have a look at www.whatstove.co.uk for general reviews. Not all stove models are there as either new or no reviews yet.

At least if you see a stove you like you can then search for a price online.

There are many stoves out there but it's generally better to buy a stove thats dearer but better quality.

Stove Fan:)

arvydasx · 02-10-2012 9:02am

Hi Stove fan, do u install fireplaces with hot air blowing system thru the ducting. And what do u thing about?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV6nxx72Mis&feature=relmfu

budget1984 · 02-10-2012 2:11pm

We have a Hamco Glenmore stove fitted in our living room. Our house is 2 years old and this was the stove recommended by our plumber. Unfortunately he has since gone to Australia so we can't get him around to help.

the problem is- we do have a mighty fire down in stove for the entire heat but there is little or no heat in the rads- none at all in the ones upstairs. Also after having a fire going all evening there wouldn't be enough hot water for a bath.

Just wondering if anyone can help us with this problem. There is what looked like temperature gauges on the wall of the kitchen and one in our bedroom upstairs but we don't know what these are for either.

Any comments greatly appreciated

Stove Fan · 02-10-2012 3:08pm

arvydasx wrote: »

Hi Stove fan, do u install fireplaces with hot air blowing system thru the ducting. And what do u thing about?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV6nxx72Mis&feature=relmfu[/QUOTE]

Hi, I'm not actually a stove installer but a great fan of stoves, hence my username:)
The stove you linked to I don't know anything about them as it appears the fire is boxed in and the heat from the fire casing and flue pipe is then ducted to other rooms.

They do a similar system and is made by a French manufacturer. If you imagine a box within a smaller box, the space inbetween gets hot and a built in fan pushes the heat out to the ducts to the various rooms. Similar to this but some have four heating duct outlets. The outer outlets are the hot air outlet ducts and the inner one is the stoves flue exit.
http://www.bricodepot.fr/toulon/node/479808

My Aunt had one but it didn't work very well, but it was an old stone house with minimal insulation.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 02-10-2012 3:27pm

budget1984 wrote: »

We have a Hamco Glenmore stove fitted in our living room. Our house is 2 years old and this was the stove recommended by our plumber. Unfortunately he has since gone to Australia so we can't get him around to help.

the problem is- we do have a mighty fire down in stove for the entire heat but there is little or no heat in the rads- none at all in the ones upstairs. Also after having a fire going all evening there wouldn't be enough hot water for a bath.

Just wondering if anyone can help us with this problem. There is what looked like temperature gauges on the wall of the kitchen and one in our bedroom upstairs but we don't know what these are for either.

Any comments greatly appreciated

Hi, did the stove heat the rads well when it was installed 2 years ago?
How many radiators are in the house?
Are they mostly doubles or single rads?
Is your central heating system zoned, ie upstairs/downstairs and hot water. You can tell this if there is room thermostats for upstairs and/or 3 different time/temp settings on a timer.

Does the rads get hotter the more you turn off? Is there any air in the system? Does the pump run continuously or controlled by a pipe thermostat?

Some pictures of the stoves plumbing and pump and hotpress would help:)
Something certainly isnt correct. Is it linked to another boiler and does that heat the rads well?

Stove Fan:)

dmca · 02-10-2012 6:00pm

I'm Thinking of buying a stoves to fit in front of an existing open fire and wanted to get some advice regarding the size. The location of the stove is the living room (17X17feet) which calculates to 4.3kilowatts, but I would like to heat the kitchen also, by opening the double doors to distribute heat. The Kitchen measures 28x14 feet, which equates to 6.4 Kilowatts. I have been looking at 10-11 kilowatt stoves (the Toulon), and I appreciate that in order to get 11Kws out of a stove, it is a combination of feeding it fuel and controlling airflow.

Another reason I am looking at that particular 11kw stove is that it is the best look and fit for the hearth and doesn't cost much more than the 8-10 variety.
Are there any reasons why I shouldn't get this stove?
If I go for 10/11kw, and build a big fire will the living room be unbearably hot (given that doors will be open to distribute heat to rest of house)?
Is there anything else I should consider?
Thanks a mill

houseinthesun · 03-10-2012 1:52pm

Hi Stove Fan,

well we purchased a stove yesterday, The Stanley Lismore boiler model at a very good price. The other half did not like the look of the Stratford EB12HE, but loved the lismore. Better to keep her happy, and as a bonus we got the Lismore for €1350.
Now the technical stuff, I have the option to 2 pumps, both Grundfos Alpha 2, A energy rating and super efficient, one with a flow rate of 2.7m3/hour and the other with 3m3/hour, I have a standard 2 storey house with 10 rads, the stove is 17kW, will the smaller pumps flow rate be sufficient?

thanks in advance.

Kaylee · 03-10-2012 3:23pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

To have a freestanding stove in the fireplace like in the photo, you would have to have the marble suffound and fireback removed/knocked out. Depending on the age of the house the flue gatherer/support would need to be removed and a new one installed higher. This isn't a simple job as the flue gather supports the clay flue liners and the dry sand/cement backfill.

It might be a better/cheaper option to go for an inset stove?

Stove Fan.

Hi Stove Fan,
I would appreciate your advice again... We have the exact same issue with our house - I got two different guys in to look at the fireplace (I want free standing stove recessed)

Man no. 1 said that it can be done with full day Kango hammer for €700.

Man no. 2 said that he wouldn't recommend doing it at all the gather is too low in our chimney - just put the stove on the hearth with flexi flue up chimney.

Just wondering if you think man no. 1 or man no. 2 is correct??

budget1984 · 03-10-2012 4:04pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, did the stove heat the rads well when it was installed 2 years ago?
How many radiators are in the house?
Are they mostly doubles or single rads?
Is your central heating system zoned, ie upstairs/downstairs and hot water. You can tell this if there is room thermostats for upstairs and/or 3 different time/temp settings on a timer.

Does the rads get hotter the more you turn off? Is there any air in the system? Does the pump run continuously or controlled by a pipe thermostat?

Some pictures of the stoves plumbing and pump and hotpress would help:)
Something certainly isnt correct. Is it linked to another boiler and does that heat the rads well?

Stove Fan:)

Hi I have attached some pics- hope you can help from these

thanks again

cavan4sam · 03-10-2012 8:47pm

cavan4sam wrote: »

have ordered the blacksmith forge so i'll update on its performance soon , now i'm looking for a 36x36 heart stone curved at the front , preferably in black slate

almost done , all the pipework done and hearth tiled on floor , stone being built 2moro so i should have some pics up next week all going well

Moggaman · 03-10-2012 9:05pm

Hi . I have an ongoing problem with my solid fuel stove. It is a large stove with a straight up flue into a normal chimney flue. There is a baffle plate horizontally about 2 inchs above the door. Since I have it I have experienced lots of smoke billowing out when I open the doors. There seems to be no problem with the draw cause it flames up massively when air gets to it.
The funny thing is if I ave the doors fully open it will probably smoke out into the room but if I close the double doors on it by three quaters it doesn't smoke...ie the smoke goes where it is meant to....I fitted a anti down draught cowl on top also...can anybody put sense on this..first I thought the baffle plate extended too far out towards the door and it might be deflecting the smoke out but again if I three quarters close the door the smoke goes where it's meant to....it's a pain...what's the story.....

Stove Fan · 03-10-2012 9:10pm

Kaylee wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
I would appreciate your advice again... We have the exact same issue with our house - I got two different guys in to look at the fireplace (I want free standing stove recessed)

Man no. 1 said that it can be done with full day Kango hammer for €700.

Man no. 2 said that he wouldn't recommend doing it at all the gather is too low in our chimney - just put the stove on the hearth with flexi flue up chimney.

Just wondering if you think man no. 1 or man no. 2 is correct??

To be honest they are both correct, it really depends if you have the additional budget to alter the fireplace.
The main thing with enlarging the opening is supporting the chimney breast and clay liners properly. One way to support the clay liners is to drill a 1/2 inch drill bit straight through them and leave the bit in while the work continues. When drilling through the liners though use the non hammer position on the drill. Support the chimneybreast blockwork as well.

The other issue is to keep the cavity intact if the fireplace is on an external wall or the chimney is built externally on a gable wall. Ie leave 4 inches of the internal cavity blockwork for damp protection.

option 2 would be cheaper and less dusty as just the hearth would need extending.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 03-10-2012 9:27pm

budget1984 wrote: »

Hi I have attached some pics- hope you can help from these

thanks again

Hi on stove picture 5 could you say which pipes lead where? Ie pipe on left of pump.
Large pipe from T leading upwards?
Large bore pipe on far right of compression T.

The pipework at the back of the stove with the pipe thermostat on (stove pic2) does it come straight across in line with the boilers top outlet? It looks to me as it may head down after leaving the boiler outlet.
If this is the case it would trap air and not circulate.
Does the stove make boiling noises like a kettle boiling?
How many pipes are connected on the boiler outlets? 2 or 4? Are they diagonally connected example top left, bottom right?

The pipe thermostat and pvc electric trunking shouldn't be in the fireplace.
It would be better if the pipe thermostat was moved to the pipe on the left of the chimneybreast.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 03-10-2012 9:35pm

Moggaman wrote: »

Hi . I have an ongoing problem with my solid fuel stove. It is a large stove with a straight up flue into a normal chimney flue. There is a baffle plate horizontally about 2 inchs above the door. Since I have it I have experienced lots of smoke billowing out when I open the doors. There seems to be no problem with the draw cause it flames up massively when air gets to it.
The funny thing is if I ave the doors fully open it will probably smoke out into the room but if I close the double doors on it by three quaters it doesn't smoke...ie the smoke goes where it is meant to....I fitted a anti down draught cowl on top also...can anybody put sense on this..first I thought the baffle plate extended too far out towards the door and it might be deflecting the smoke out but again if I three quarters close the door the smoke goes where it's meant to....it's a pain...what's the story.....

Sweep the chimney first to rule this out if been using for a few months.
What stove is it? Is it top or rear flued?
There was a case with a stove here that had to have a part removed if using the rear flue outlet. This was causing smoke emmisions. Look in the stove manual to see if this is mentioned.
If you open a window or external door in the room with stove does the smoke go up the chimney? Is there a wall vent in the same room as the stove? Is your house quite new and quite airtight.

Stove Fan:)

Moggaman · 03-10-2012 9:42pm

Thanks for reply.House is 5 years old. Insulated concrete formwork house..airtight....not really I think..can feel draughts from windows etc.had a vent in room but blocked It up cause of cold coming in....chimney swept 15 months ago. The flue is pretty clean I think..stove is not on all a every day....I think it doesnt improve when window is opened.....Stove is top flued

Stove Fan · 03-10-2012 9:57pm

Moggaman wrote: »

Thanks for reply.House is 5 years old. Insulated concrete formwork house..airtight....not really I think..can feel draughts from windows etc.had a vent in room but blocked It up cause of cold coming in....chimney swept 15 months ago. The flue is pretty clean I think..stove is not on all a every day....I think it doesnt improve when window is opened.....Stove is top flued

I would get the chimney swept and uncover the wall vent and see if it cures the problem. The vent should not be covered, it's there to let air in for the fire for combustion air. If not get it investigated as fumes into the room are a no-no. If the vent is in a bad position have it moved/ installed to a less windy/exposed external wall.

Stove Fan:)

RoscommoLad · 03-10-2012 11:27pm

budget1984 wrote: »

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, did the stove heat the rads well when it was installed 2 years ago?
How many radiators are in the house?
Are they mostly doubles or single rads?
Is your central heating system zoned, ie upstairs/downstairs and hot water. You can tell this if there is room thermostats for upstairs and/or 3 different time/temp settings on a timer.

Does the rads get hotter the more you turn off? Is there any air in the system? Does the pump run continuously or controlled by a pipe thermostat?

Some pictures of the stoves plumbing and pump and hotpress would help:)
Something certainly isnt correct. Is it linked to another boiler and does that heat the rads well?

Stove Fan:)

Hi I have attached some pics- hope you can help from these

thanks again

Hi,

I think the stat looks like it is set a little low as it looks a little closer to 45 degrees than it is to 50. However I assume it is not as simple as this. It maybe worth adjusting the pump speeds or even bleeding the pump.

RoscommonLad.

Kaylee · 04-10-2012 9:11am

Stove Fan wrote: »

To be honest they are both correct, it really depends if you have the additional budget to alter the fireplace.
The main thing with enlarging the opening is supporting the chimney breast and clay liners properly. One way to support the clay liners is to drill a 1/2 inch drill bit straight through them and leave the bit in while the work continues. When drilling through the liners though use the non hammer position on the drill. Support the chimneybreast blockwork as well.

The other issue is to keep the cavity intact if the fireplace is on an external wall or the chimney is built externally on a gable wall. Ie leave 4 inches of the internal cavity blockwork for damp protection.

option 2 would be cheaper and less dusty as just the hearth would need extending.

Stove Fan:)

Thank you very much Stove Fan - really appreciate you taking the time to answer queries like this, you are very giving of your time and expertise

Don't know what to do now... we like the option 2 stoves (Clearview) but we really want the stove recessed and they aren't willing to do it. Just complicates things again...typical!

Surfn · 04-10-2012 9:27am

we put in a clearview 750 boiler stove last december, it replaced a converted solid fuel to oil cooker. i can tell you its the best thing we ever done. clearview 750 sure can produce heat. its heating keeping our bungalow nice and toasty. 8 rads and hot water, a few of the rads are doubles. from what ive seen with it so far, dry seasoned sticks is definately the key. but anybody putting in a big boiler stove, these things eat sticks. we have alot of sticks of our own so we are not to bad. overall couldnt be happier, the house nearly gets too hot at times, but hey not a bad complaint

Kaylee · 04-10-2012 11:28am

Surfn wrote: »

we put in a clearview 750 boiler stove last december, it replaced a converted solid fuel to oil cooker. i can tell you its the best thing we ever done. clearview 750 sure can produce heat. its heating keeping our bungalow nice and toasty. 8 rads and hot water, a few of the rads are doubles. from what ive seen with it so far, dry seasoned sticks is definately the key. but anybody putting in a big boiler stove, these things eat sticks. we have alot of sticks of our own so we are not to bad. overall couldnt be happier, the house nearly gets too hot at times, but hey not a bad complaint

Yea, I believe they're really good stoves. Heard it from a few people who installed...

Surfn · 04-10-2012 11:33am

kaylee, they are not the cheapest stove, but im glad we spent that bit extra and got 1 of them, id highly recommend them anyhow, we dont have oil now at all. this stove, has no probs heating the home.

Ky Abu · 04-10-2012 11:37am

Stove Fan wrote: »

I don't know anything about them but the person we bought our house from has the blacksmith forge boiler stove in their home. I should be seeing them in a week or two. I will ask them what they think of it:)

Stove Fan:)

Hi

Am looking at the Blacksmith Forge as a possible option also, any update on this installation??

Ky Abu · 04-10-2012 11:43am

Anyone able to help me a bit on this??

I have looked at the following in Stoves with a back boiler

Stanley Ashling, This can be got with a Hotplate or without. It could possibly replace the Range, but the access into the ash tray is very poor I think.

Blacksmith Forge Looked at this a few times in different places and the stores seem to suggest it is a cheaper but more efficient version of the Stanley Ashling

Stratford Eco Boiler Looks more modern but no reviews only the recommendation from the store.

Solid Fuel Ranges
Stanley Donard Solid Fuel Range

Rayburn Solid Fuel Range

So really, just looking for anyone who has experience of any of these, where they purchased, best price etc? Or any close comparisons to these.

what_traffic · 04-10-2012 11:46am

Great thread - a wealth of information in it.

Can anybody here in Galway City(County) recommend a Solid Fuel Stove Installer whom they have employed in the last year or two. Can you please PM me. Have an Oisin Stanley Stove to install into an Open Fireplace which originally had an open fireplace with a back boiler.

Thanks

what_traffic

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 12:43pm

Kaylee wrote: »

Thank you very much Stove Fan - really appreciate you taking the time to answer queries like this, you are very giving of your time and expertise

Don't know what to do now... we like the option 2 stoves (Clearview) but we really want the stove recessed and they aren't willing to do it. Just complicates things again...typical!

How about a clearview insert?
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/visioninset.htm

Not sure on the Kw output you were looking for but clearview vision produces up to 5kw.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 12:47pm

Surfn wrote: »

we put in a clearview 750 boiler stove last december, it replaced a converted solid fuel to oil cooker. i can tell you its the best thing we ever done. clearview 750 sure can produce heat. its heating keeping our bungalow nice and toasty. 8 rads and hot water, a few of the rads are doubles. from what ive seen with it so far, dry seasoned sticks is definately the key. but anybody putting in a big boiler stove, these things eat sticks. we have alot of sticks of our own so we are not to bad. overall couldnt be happier, the house nearly gets too hot at times, but hey not a bad complaint

Clearview have a great reputation and certainly a well regarded make. In the UK a secondhand one on ebay can get serious money!!

We heat our 2 bed bungalow with a villager berkley boiler stove and find coal the cheapest for running costs. Around 600euro over 7 months.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 12:56pm

Ky Abu wrote: »

Hi

Am looking at the Blacksmith Forge as a possible option also, any update on this installation??

I didn't actually install it but replaced 4 old rusty radiators for her. The client had about 12 rads off it but mos,t about 9 were between 700- 1000mm singles.

It did heat them all ok and the firebox was huge. I would say the room heat seemed less than they said. The client burnt wood, natural turf and smokeless ovals on it. Took about 2 hours to get the rads to a reasonable temperature from cold and the door glass wasn't totally clean but acceptable.
I think personally a smaller firebox would be better as the fire more contained against the backboiler, like in the Aarrow EB series.
The customer was happy with it and had it to replace expensive oil central heating.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 1:31pm

Ky Abu wrote: »

Anyone able to help me a bit on this??

I have looked at the following in Stoves with a back boiler

Stanley Ashling, This can be got with a Hotplate or without. It could possibly replace the Range, but the access into the ash tray is very poor I think.

Blacksmith Forge Looked at this a few times in different places and the stores seem to suggest it is a cheaper but more efficient version of the Stanley Ashling

Stratford Eco Boiler Looks more modern but no reviews only the recommendation from the store.

Solid Fuel Ranges
Stanley Donard Solid Fuel Range

Rayburn Solid Fuel Range

So really, just looking for anyone who has experience of any of these, where they purchased, best price etc? Or any close comparisons to these.

Hi, do you know the boiler output of your existing range? This needs to be established as all the above have different boiler outputs from 10kw to 17kw.

I have never seen a stanley ashling but see my comments above regarding the blacksmith forge.
The stratford ecoboiler SEB20 is an old discontinued model over a year ago. They do an updated version the Aarrow EB boilers series which are a lot better and available in different heat outputs.
If I was going for a reasonable brand stove for a reasonable price I would go for one of these.

Out of the 2 ranges I would buy rayburn. I actually plumbed in a reconditioned rayburn Nouvelle solid fuel cooker and the boiler performance was fab. The 8 rads (5 doubles) and hot water were rated at 14kw and it heated the rads very hot. Thermostatic control on the boiler to maintain the rad temp which it seemed to do.
It did cost 3,400 euros just for the refurbished range from H&F
http://www.handfenterprises.ie/
No idea on the cooking function but the client did use the top for a fry up. The firebox was large so ideal if you were burning logs.

Another option is warmsler. Better than a rayburn and I love the adjustable grate height for summer use. Ie when you want less boiler output you move the grate position higher so as to heat just hotwater.
http://www.wamslercookers.co.uk/html/ch_1100.html

Another option which is very well made is Brosely. These though can only burn wood by the looks of it. May be advisable to see if they can burn coal. The nice thing is though you can view see the fire.
http://www.broseleyfires.com/Range-Cookers/

Stove Fan:)

Kaylee · 04-10-2012 1:42pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

How about a clearview insert?
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/visioninset.htm

Not sure on the Kw output you were looking for but clearview vision produces up to 5kw.

Stove Fan:)

Looks great in that pic... husband prefers free standing stove look

The inset version would be ideal output-wise for our room though.

Fairydust2012 · 04-10-2012 1:46pm

apologys i previously posted this in main forum before I saw the sticky, posting here as i might get more informatin

I got a insert stove fitted about 3 months ago, It has had very little use. Last week I noticed the wall upstairs was very warm so I checked the chimney breast down stairs and it was extremely hot, So hot that 2 small cracks have appeared on the chimney breast.

The fire had been out for about an hour and a half and the stove was cold yet the chimney breast was untouchable.

I Called the fire brigade as I was scared that there may have been a fire in the chimney breast (thankfully there wasn't)
Even the fire men seemed puzzled on how it was so hot and no fire.

The plumber who fitted it has never seen this happen before. He has moved back the flu and insulated it even more but unfortunately it is still happening.
He specialises in fitting stoves and is fully qualified.

The stove is an Antrim 5kw
An hour after a fire has gone out the stove will be cold I thought stoves were meant to retain the heat.

Any advice is much appreciated

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 3:43pm

Fairydust2012 wrote: »

apologys i previously posted this in main forum before I saw the sticky, posting here as i might get more informatin

I got a insert stove fitted about 3 months ago, It has had very little use. Last week I noticed the wall upstairs was very warm so I checked the chimney breast down stairs and it was extremely hot, So hot that 2 small cracks have appeared on the chimney breast.
The fire had been out for about an hour and a half and the stove was cold yet the chimney breast was untouchable.

I Called the fire brigade as I was scared that there may have been a fire in the chimney breast (thankfully there wasn't)
Even the fire men seemed puzzled on how it was so hot and no fire.

The plumber who fitted it has never seen this happen before. He has moved back the flu and insulated it even more but unfortunately it is still happening.
He specialises in fitting stoves and is fully qualified.

The stove is an Antrim 5kw
An hour after a fire has gone out the stove will be cold I thought stoves were meant to retain the heat.

Any advice is much appreciated

From your description it sounds like your house is an older home with an unlined chimney. This would explain the chimneybreast upstairs being warm and the chimneybreast downstairs being very hot.
The plaster would of cracked due to the heat, hopefully the blockwork, stone or brick chimneybreast hasn't actually cracked. A photo would help.

To be honest though as it looks like it isn't lined I would get a stainless steel flue liner fitted. The stove should hopefully have an adapter available to join it to the liner.
It should ideally of been lined.

Stove Fan:)

albert kidd · 04-10-2012 7:10pm

hi stove man..ive a quick question that i think i know the answer to!!..looking to get an inset stove around the 4/5kw..like most these days money is fairly tight and im trawling the internet trying to come across the best deal..the stoves on the like of done deal that some are selling are alot cheaper then most other sites ive looked on..are they a cheaper stove for a reason..would i be better to swerve and pay the extra?

Ky Abu · 04-10-2012 7:28pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, do you know the boiler output of your existing range? This needs to be established as all the above have different boiler outputs from 10kw to 17kw.

The house has been renovated so there are now 12 rad's, whereas the old house had 6 rads. Think it was a Stanley Super 80 we had. The Stanley Donard is on offer at the moment in MD O'Shea's Killarney, €3995 which is €1000 cheaper than the retail price.

Of the Stoves, the Blacksmith would be good so from what I have read so far

RoscommoLad · 04-10-2012 7:29pm

Ky Abu wrote: »

Anyone able to help me a bit on this??

I have looked at the following in Stoves with a back boiler

Stanley Ashling, This can be got with a Hotplate or without. It could possibly replace the Range, but the access into the ash tray is very poor I think.

Blacksmith Forge Looked at this a few times in different places and the stores seem to suggest it is a cheaper but more efficient version of the Stanley Ashling

Stratford Eco Boiler Looks more modern but no reviews only the recommendation from the store.

Solid Fuel Ranges
Stanley Donard Solid Fuel Range

Rayburn Solid Fuel Range

So really, just looking for anyone who has experience of any of these, where they purchased, best price etc? Or any close comparisons to these.

Hi Ky Abu,

The Stanley Donard and Rayburn solid fuel ranges are effectively the same range as they are made by the same manufacturers and retail for exactly the same price.

I have the Stanley donard in my own house and would recommend it although I am considering changing it for the Stanley Reginald stove. The donard comes with a summer time grate as stovefan mentioned and I would be almost certain that the Rayburn does as well. The only real difference between the 2 is the Rayburn appears to be a little more traditional looking.

A member of my family has an Ashling with boiler and hot plate and they would recommend it, however this would not have the same output as the ranges or the EB (I don't know anything about the blacksmith).

RoscommonLad.

Robbie.G · 04-10-2012 8:12pm

Fairydust2012 wrote: »

apologys i previously posted this in main forum before I saw the sticky, posting here as i might get more informatin

I got a insert stove fitted about 3 months ago, It has had very little use. Last week I noticed the wall upstairs was very warm so I checked the chimney breast down stairs and it was extremely hot, So hot that 2 small cracks have appeared on the chimney breast.
The fire had been out for about an hour and a half and the stove was cold yet the chimney breast was untouchable.

I Called the fire brigade as I was scared that there may have been a fire in the chimney breast (thankfully there wasn't)
Even the fire men seemed puzzled on how it was so hot and no fire.

The plumber who fitted it has never seen this happen before. He has moved back the flu and insulated it even more but unfortunately it is still happening.
He specialises in fitting stoves and is fully qualified.

The stove is an Antrim 5kw
An hour after a fire has gone out the stove will be cold I thought stoves were meant to retain the heat.

Any advice is much appreciated

Generally speaking the temp of the chimney should be lower with a stove than an open fire due to the efficientcy of a stove
The only time I seen the flue temp very high was due to the incorrect coal been use so just double check the coal is suitable for a closed appliance

Fairydust2012 · 04-10-2012 8:44pm

Robbie.G wrote: »

Generally speaking the temp of the chimney should be lower with a stove than an open fire due to the efficientcy of a stove
The only time I seen the flue temp very high was due to the incorrect coal been use so just double check the coal is suitable for a closed appliance

Thanks a mill for reply.

The stove itself goes cold about an hour after the fire has gone out, whereas the wall holds the heat and is still hot several hours later. Is it possible that the stove is not retaining the heat properly??

Robbie.G · 04-10-2012 9:15pm

Fairydust2012 wrote: »

Robbie.G wrote: »

Generally speaking the temp of the chimney should be lower with a stove than an open fire due to the efficientcy of a stove
The only time I seen the flue temp very high was due to the incorrect coal been use so just double check the coal is suitable for a closed appliance

Thanks a mill for reply.

The stove itself goes cold about an hour after the fire has gone out, whereas the wall holds the heat and is still hot several hours later. Is it possible that the stove is not retaining the heat properly??

Steel heats up very quickly but cools very quickly also.Good quality cast iron will have some sort of heat retention.The wall once heated will hold heat similar to storage heaters or underfloor heating

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 11:03pm

albert kidd wrote: »

hi stove man..ive a quick question that i think i know the answer to!!..looking to get an inset stove around the 4/5kw..like most these days money is fairly tight and im trawling the internet trying to come across the best deal..the stoves on the like of done deal that some are selling are alot cheaper then most other sites ive looked on..are they a cheaper stove for a reason..would i be better to swerve and pay the extra?

Unfortunately you generally get what you pay for. If you can afford the extra look at the Aarrow ecoburn Inset. reasonable quality or the esse 300 series, stovax stockton inset, stovax riva.
A lot of the stoves on donedeal are made in China.

Have a look at various manufacturers reviews here by owners. www.whatstove.co.uk

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 04-10-2012 11:08pm

Ky Abu wrote: »

The house has been renovated so there are now 12 rad's, whereas the old house had 6 rads. Think it was a Stanley Super 80 we had. The Stanley Donard is on offer at the moment in MD O'Shea's Killarney, €3995 which is €1000 cheaper than the retail price.

Of the Stoves, the Blacksmith would be good so?

If you give me the measurements in cm of the 12 rads I'll work it out for you the Kw output required on the back boiler. Some will be either double or single rads.

Stove Fan:)

mk2 · 04-10-2012 11:50pm

Just finished installin a Boru chieftain inset boiler stove here's a couple pics!

wait4me · 05-10-2012 10:32am

mk2 wrote: »

Just finished installin a Boru chieftain inset boiler stove here's a couple pics!

Nice job - just like what I want to do!

Stove Fan · 05-10-2012 12:14pm

Hi,

The install looks lovely:D

What do you think of your new stoves boiler performance? How many rads is it heating? A review would help others.

Stove Fan:)

albert kidd · 05-10-2012 5:16pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Unfortunately you generally get what you pay for. If you can afford the extra look at the Aarrow ecoburn Inset. reasonable quality or the esse 300 series, stovax stockton inset, stovax riva.
A lot of the stoves on donedeal are made in China.

Have a look at various manufacturers reviews here by owners. www.whatstove.co.uk

Stove Fan:)

cheers for the reply stove fan

i was off that thinking myself:o

ive seen a few mention the esse alright and think ill go that route..from some posts i gather you dont need a flue going from the esse up to the flue gatherer is that right?.,is it a case of sitting it into the chimney opening..do you need to fill the void left between the stove and the chimney opening on each side?

cheers again.

Stove Fan · 05-10-2012 5:48pm

albert kidd wrote: »

cheers for the reply stove fan

i was off that thinking myself:o

ive seen a few mention the esse alright and think ill go that route..from some posts i gather you dont need a flue going from the esse up to the flue gatherer is that right?.,is it a case of sitting it into the chimney opening..do you need to fill the void left between the stove and the chimney opening on each side?

cheers again.

No, you dont need to connect the stove to the flue gatherer providing the chimney is sound. If not it would need a flexi liner connected to the insert stove.
jYou ust slot it in and follow the manufacturers instructions:D.
With regards to backfilling I have read the instructions and they say being double cased you dont have to but they do say it can give better efficiency so I would backfill with vermiculite to fill any voids. See
http://www.esse.com/support/multifuel-stoves/operating-instructions/300_install-operate.pdf

Stove Fan:)

albert kidd · 05-10-2012 6:02pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

No, you dont need to connect the stove to the flue gatherer providing the chimney is sound. If not it would need a flexi liner connected to the insert stove.
jYou ust slot it in and follow the manufacturers instructions:D.
With regards to backfilling I have read the instructions and they say being double cased you dont have to but they do say it can give better efficiency so I would backfill with vermiculite to fill any voids. See
http://www.esse.com/support/multifuel-stoves/operating-instructions/300_install-operate.pdf

Stove Fan:)

that'll do the finest stove man..i appreciate the replies..hopefully be up and running by this time next week..have to get a plumber in to unhook a gas fire and ill be good to go.

once again thanks for your time.

mk2 · 05-10-2012 6:33pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi,

The install looks lovely:D

What do you think of your new stoves boiler performance? How many rads is it heating? A review would help others.

Stove Fan:)

The performance is great i can't belive the heat in the house,i have 12 rads coming off it and it heats them no problem,the chieftain is 17kw output 15kw to water and 2kw to the room which is about right for me,i would advise anyone thats thinking about getting a stove in to do it its well worth it you would think the heating is on from about an hour after the fire is lit,the materials cost me €690 including pump tank and thermostat,the plumber charged €600 for the work he had to mod the flu reducer to fit and he got a plasterer to patch up the wall and he fitted the chimney cowel,and the stove and fireplace cost €2960 fitted feel free to ask any questions!

Brianne · 05-10-2012 6:50pm

mk2 I'm curious of how much heat it throws out to the room. Do you have a rad in that room and do you think it throws out the same heat as the fire or more or less heat? My room is 16x12 approx. I still have'nt got the inset as I'm worried that the room won't be warm enough.

mk2 · 05-10-2012 6:58pm

It gives out less heat than an open fire but the gain through out the rest of the house more than makes up for it,i do have a rad in the sitting room with the heat from that and the stove its dead on i wouldn't say its not warm enough!

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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