STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

BarryD · 13-10-2015 02:07PM

I guess the basic questions might be; when was the house built and if relatively modern, were clay liners installed etc. Why was a fire 'never lit' in this chimney before? And are you sure? Did you check it for soot/ tarry deposits etc? Who installed the stove and what assurances did they give you?

If all is in order, one would assume that there is a drying out process at play and that is causing the plaster to dry and paint to crack. If however, a 'sticky substance' is appearing - that might well mean that there is no liner and that the mortar between the blocks/ brick/ stonework is a bit skimpy. Is there a smell off the chimney in the room? You might well need to get someone in to take a closer look at it, particularly if you suspect there is leakage from the chimney to the interior of the house. My two cents

MiskyBoyy · 13-10-2015 03:05PM

Please make sure you have a carbon monoxide alarm fitted somewhere in the room. Goes for everyone with a stove or fire.

VandC · 13-10-2015 07:20PM

I am trying to respond to your posts but it won't let me!! Either via the app or webpage!!! Grrr. Bet it will let this up!

VandC · 13-10-2015 07:21PM

MiskyBoyy wrote:

Please make sure you have a carbon monoxide alarm fitted somewhere in the room. Goes for everyone with a stove or fire.

Yep have one installed in the room where the stove is

VandC · 13-10-2015 07:31PM

1 of 2

BarryD: House built 97 so I would consider relatively modern. But don't know re clay liners - how would that be checked?

Both people who were out to inspect the chimney both said that it had never been used. (They were from different companies that do these installations). They commented on how "clean" the chimney was so guessing they checked for soot and tar. And I had my suspicions from the look of the open fire. It just didn't look used. And the pieces of it didnt look new so it wasn't a case of them being replaced. If that makes sense. God only knows why it wasn't lit before. Neighbour has open fire so chimneys were def built for fires. Or is that a silly assumption?

I won't name companies but it was done by a longstanding company. I suppose I could ring them. But are there particular types of assurances I should have gotten?

VandC · 13-10-2015 07:33PM

2 of 2
What does a chimney smell like? There was a plastic type smell when we lit the fire which seems to be lessening which I thought was the paint curing on the stove given that its just had it's first few lightings.

The leak I would best describe as like coke. You know if you spill some on a table say and leave it a couple of hours? Could a leak take a few days to appear (fire lit sat night only appearing today).

Should I get the same crowd out again to check or someone else for independent opinion?

If no liner is it a big job? I would have thought that after 18 years that all the drying out would be done. Or is it a case of the extra heat further dries it out?

Sorry for all the (stupid) questions.

TIA

BarryD · 13-10-2015 08:44PM

Hi VandC, I can only comment of what chimneys I've seen in houses we've lived in. If build was 1997, the chimney should be properly lined with fireclay liners (a column of short pipes that slot into each other) - from what I recall these fit inside the rectangle of blockwork comprising the rising chimney and the space between the liner and block is backfilled to insulate and support the liner. Once the smoke enters this column it shouldn't leak back to the inside unless there is a crack or deficiency of some sort. I presume your stoves flue is connected up into the chimney proper?

Chimneys get damp, particularly over summer/ early autumn months when fires are not lit. Partic if there is no raincowl on the chimney pot - rain comes down and is absorbed into the chimney. So you might get a slightly heavy damp smell at first but after chimney is used for a week or so this dissipates.

The leak you describe sounds like a tarry substance, you can get this from burning firewood etc. But it shouldn't be appearing through your wall, unless there is a way through? Crack? Stove flue pipe not connected properly? Sometimes plaster gets blotches when drying etc., but you'd think this should have sorted itself out over the past 15 years or so.

Does the chimney get particularly warm to touch where the paint is flaking/ substance appearing?

Go get someone to look at it.

VandC · 13-10-2015 10:31PM

Thanks barryd. Not sure if it gets warm where the chimney is. I'll check that out next time I light it. I'm hoping where the sticky stuff is has nothing to do with chimney maybe just coincidental and drying up, maybe something to do with installation of fireplace. Will have to get It checked. Ugh, hope it doesn't turn out to be big and expensive. :-/ thanks for your help

The lips · 14-10-2015 07:09AM

Hi guys looking for a little help here.

I had a Stanley Cara dry stove fitted this week.

The clay liners were cleaned and inspected prior to installation, the rotating brush went all the way to the top, hitting the crow stopper cone.

The provided reducer and piping was used to connect it to the existing chimney.

It is like there is no draw on the chimney now, the stove fills with smoke and starts to pour out the primary air vent and everywhere else.

We had great success with the open fire here the last two winters so I was confident of a great draw.

The room has a vent and stove does the same with both windows open.

Could a back draught suddenly appear? There is no change in exterior of house or neighbours, no high trees etc

bootser · 14-10-2015 08:37AM

The lips wrote:

The provided reducer and piping was used to connect it to the existing chimney.

The lips wrote:

The clay liners were cleaned and inspected prior to installation, the rotating brush went all the way to the top, hitting the crow stopper cone.

The lips wrote:

I had a Stanley Cara dry stove fitted this week.

The lips wrote:

Hi guys looking for a little help here.

The lips wrote:

It is like there is no draw on the chimney now, the stove fills with smoke and starts to pour out the primary air vent and everywhere else.

The lips wrote:

We had great success with the open fire here the last two winters so I was confident of a great draw.

The lips wrote:

The room has a vent and stove does the same with both windows open.

The lips wrote:

Could a back draught suddenly appear? There is no change in exterior of house or neighbours, no high trees etc

Hi I have a cara fitted bout 3 years, worked brilliant till last year, went to light it on a cold morning and something fairly similar to your problem happened. Didn't have any coal on so closed vents and let it burn out then retried, same result! Got installer out to look at it, turned out that "snots of mortar" had fallen down from between the liners and partially covered the flue outlet! Easily fixed with a chimney clean. This may not b ur prob but don't panic get ur installer to look at it. Cara is a mighty stove only regret i have is not getting a boiler type!

BarryD · 14-10-2015 09:36AM

The lips wrote: »

It is like there is no draw on the chimney now, the stove fills with smoke and starts to pour out the primary air vent and everywhere else.

We had great success with the open fire here the last two winters so I was confident of a great draw.

Ditto - try lighting the stove and look at the chimney from the outside. Is any smoke emerging? If there is, is there more smoke in the room than coming out the chimney? Possible blockage in chimney left accidentally by cleaners or installers etc.

If the problem only occurs when the stove is being lit and disappears when it's burning properly, then maybe suspect a draw or downdraft problem.

chubbs2011 · 14-10-2015 09:55AM

Hi all, just Looking for some advice. I'm probably being a bit paranoid but here goes.

I have a cara insert non boiler 2 years old. I bought a ton of stove coal which is a mixture of coal and ovoids not realising it isn't smokeless. It's really dirty and the smoke coming out of the chimney which it's lit or a fresh load is put on the fire is unreal. I have played around with the airflow settings and have figured out how to get it just right so after the initial 'burst' of flames when starting and putting on fresh coal I can get it to a nice simmer and the glass becomes clear. However I'm worried that using this smokey stuff will a) damage my stove and b) set my chimney on fire. We had a chimney fire a few years ago just before putting in the stove and had the chimney professionally cleaned a few weeks ago so maybe I'm just a little paranoid. Also I was cleaning the mantle piece this morning and the chimney breast is still hot even though the last load of load was put on about 7 last night. Is this normal? Thanks in advance

bombs away · 14-10-2015 07:03PM

Had a guy in to take a look at our fireplace with the intention of replacing our old gas fire with a new free-standing stove (Stanley Tara) and a new fireplace and alcove for it. Unfortunately our fireplace is too small and the flue gatherer would need to be raised about 10 inches to accommodate it which apparently is quite a large and expensive job. He suggested that if I knew any builders that could do it cheaper then try and get them.

Anyone recommend a builder or fireplace installer that would do this for a good price?

cocoman · 14-10-2015 08:34PM

bombs away wrote: »

Had a guy in to take a look at our fireplace with the intention of replacing our old gas fire with a new free-standing stove (Stanley Tara) and a new fireplace and alcove for it. Unfortunately our fireplace is too small and the flue gatherer would need to be raised about 10 inches to accommodate it which apparently is quite a large and expensive job. He suggested that if I knew any builders that could do it cheaper then try and get them.

Anyone recommend a builder or fireplace installer that would do this for a good price?

Would it work by using the rear flue outlet from the stove? Ideally a free standing stove shouldn't be in an alcove. Would work much better if out in the open.
I'd say raising the gather would be a fairly big (and messy) job .

bombs away · 14-10-2015 10:50PM

cocoman wrote: »

Would it work by using the rear flue outlet from the stove? Ideally a free standing stove shouldn't be in an alcove. Would work much better if out in the open.
I'd say raising the gather would be a fairly big (and messy) job .

Hi coco man,

http://www.colwynfireplacecentre.com/images/products-large/Stokesay-chamber-fireplace-limestone.jpg

This was kinda what I had in mind, the stove would probably be only half way in as opposed to the full way. The flue gatherer would need to be lifted and repositioned to accommodate it though. I was quoted 1000 euro just to do that alone. Does this seem reasonable?

BarryD · 15-10-2015 09:53AM

bombs away wrote: »

Hi coco man,

http://www.colwynfireplacecentre.com/images/products-large/Stokesay-chamber-fireplace-limestone.jpg

This was kinda what I had in mind, the stove would probably be only half way in as opposed to the full way. The flue gatherer would need to be lifted and repositioned to accommodate it though. I was quoted 1000 euro just to do that alone. Does this seem reasonable?

We have a little Stanley stove like that - think they used to call it the Shire? Great heat off it and economical on fuel.

Cocoman is suggesting that you can use the rear flue connection as opposed to the top connector, I think. The flue exits at the back, goes through a right angle bend and up to connect to the chimney proper. This might mean you can fit it in existing space but it will sit more out into the room as the flue pipework at rear takes up a little space. Might not be as aesthetic to you and perhaps more of a hazard in terms of children falling against it but it would also throw more heat into the room proper.

€1000 doesn't sound unreasonable to me for the work you describe, if it's done properly. Remember a chimney is constructed from the ground up and there is weight bearing down, so to remove and raise the flue gatherer would require some temporary propping etc., as far as I'd know.

GatsbyGal · 15-10-2015 12:44PM

Would anyone be able to tell me if it's standard practice to pull out the entire fireplace to put in an insert stove which will fit perfectly into the existing fireplace. I had a stove fitter at my house recently who said this would need to be done to install the stove. Thanks.

pippip · 15-10-2015 01:46PM

Does the current fireplace have a back boiler?

GatsbyGal · 15-10-2015 03:38PM

pippip wrote: »

Does the current fireplace have a back boiler?

Hi. No it doesn't. It is a period fireplace so it has a row of tiles along the side but I didn't think that would make any difference to installing it.

lovehathi · 15-10-2015 04:14PM

hi everyone we have riva55 inset, but why does airwash control makes my glass back every time we use seasoned wood, before next use we have clean again. when we close the door after 15 min of starting fire we can see smoke build up and it swirls back on glass from top, so two side of glass are black and centre part is little less black. i have seen people in shop there glass always clean while burning??

lovehathi · 15-10-2015 04:23PM

how much to expect to pay for insulating chimney with vermiculite its a double story building, and we have flue liner already in place.

also any recommendation for good hetas or any good stove installer to check our installation of riva 55 , dublin 12 area

thanks

pippip · 15-10-2015 08:00PM

lovehathi wrote: »

hi everyone we have riva55 inset, but why does airwash control makes my glass back every time we use seasoned wood, before next use we have clean again. when we close the door after 15 min of starting fire we can see smoke build up and it swirls back on glass from top, so two side of glass are black and centre part is little less black. i have seen people in shop there glass always clean while burning??

The air wash only works if the top vent is open, the more the better. The glass will always go black if this is ever closed. If you have it open and it's still happening then it might be blocked.

pippip · 15-10-2015 08:03PM

GatsbyGal wrote: »

Hi. No it doesn't. It is a period fireplace so it has a row of tiles along the side but I didn't think that would make any difference to installing it.

How snug a fit is it? At the top would there be room to line up the flue with the chimney without removing anything?

If you really feel it shouldn't the original guy was making too much work just get a second opinion. Maybe post a few photos here.

GatsbyGal · 15-10-2015 09:08PM

pippip wrote: »

How snug a fit is it? At the top would there be room to line up the flue with the chimney without removing anything?

If you really feel it shouldn't the original guy was making too much work just get a second opinion. Maybe post a few photos here.

I think there would be room but I'm not for certain. There is a hood that will have to go is all I know. Here is a picture of it.

Vote 4 Pedro · 16-10-2015 11:09AM

Finally made a decision on the stove and got an installer booked.
We went for the Dru 55MF in the end, the installer was highly recommended so I'm hoping for a pain free job, 2 weeks until he can do it but I'm so relived the searching is over.
Really looking forward to this now and been warm this winter for the first time in years.

Cass007 · 16-10-2015 12:57PM

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone can recommend a boiler stove that will heat a living room (approx. 5kw required) and 10 rads totalling approx. 14kw?

gotthebug · 16-10-2015 06:50PM

New to the world of stove so sorry for probably a stupid question. Have a solid fuel stove with a backboiler. Have it lighting the last few nights and it's burning very hot. There is a knob on the side numbered 1-8 and it is turned to eight just wondering would adjusting this know on the side turn down the air flow the vent at the front is closed thanks for any help

BarryD · 17-10-2015 02:48PM

gotthebug wrote: »

New to the world of stove so sorry for probably a stupid question. Have a solid fuel stove with a backboiler. Have it lighting the last few nights and it's burning very hot. There is a knob on the side numbered 1-8 and it is turned to eight just wondering would adjusting this know on the side turn down the air flow the vent at the front is closed thanks for any help

Might help if you say what stove model it is! But more than likely, the knob numbered 1-8 controls a damper that lets more or less air in. More air flow, more combustion, more heat, more fuel used etc.

techie · 17-10-2015 03:44PM

We have one of these in our garage and are looking to put a value on it.
It has all the pieces there for it, but it needs to be cleaned up.

The previous residents in our house said they used it until we moved in 11 years ago.

Triboro · 18-10-2015 08:32PM

Just fitted the flue liner adapter to reduce 8 inch flue in chimney down to 6 inch...Is it ok to use a flexi flue to connect directly to back of stove and then onto the 6 inch flue adapter in chimney? Thanks!

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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