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********Motors Chat - Round 8 ********

18586889091323

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Mycroft H wrote: »
    Tested pre 1994 standards regardless whether it has a cat or not. If your planning on leaving the cat out at least connect it up to an emissions tester and see if it's worth your time. I doubt it will pass without one to be honest; most cars we're designed with them in mind from the early 80's onwards.

    I might take it off and use it when need be, just have two clamps for it
    CianRyan wrote: »
    I must come up and see it soon actually, haven't been up your way since you got it!
    I'll come and critique the rest of the terrible welds. :p

    You may do! just gimme a shout before hand :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Mycroft H wrote: »
    And I think that's a silencer pickles.

    I think it is too, I've been mixing the two up since forever :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    SEems to just check co. Limit is 3.5 instead of the usual 0.3! For 86-94. 4.5 before that again. Cant be too hard to pass. Once it smells like its running ok should be good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,730 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Mycroft H wrote: »
    and if the welds are airtight I couldn't care less. It's an exhaust. Doesn't have to be pretty.

    Inconsistent width, running the torch too cold, not enough gas and there's snots all over it.
    In no world is that an alright weld. That's how you end up with a blow in your exhaust and similar with lads blowing up turbo manifolds.
    Cowboy welder a destroy cars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    Imagine you owned this car

    I'd sell it and get a couple of nice project cars (such as Nissan S13, Gen3 Legacy, MK1 Golf VR6) + have lots money left over.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭wotzgoingon


    GvidoR wrote: »
    I'd sell it and get a couple of nice project cars (such as Nissan S13, Gen3 Legacy, MK1 Golf VR6) + have lots money left over.

    I suppose that would be good, you took it in a different direction, I would probably do the same as you but with different cars, but if you owned that and some prick jumps on top of it with a bike, you'd be well pissed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    Obviously yeah, but it didn't look like he did much damage, if any. Therefore it shouldn't affect the sale value. :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,306 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    CianRyan wrote: »
    Inconsistent width, running the torch too cold, not enough gas and there's snots all over it.
    In no world is that an alright weld. That's how you end up with a blow in your exhaust and similar with lads blowing up turbo manifolds.
    Cowboy welder a destroy cars.

    I'd say it's fine for the moment. Always see welds as temp repairs in an exhaust, if you need to weld it, it's not far off the bin.

    I've done it with a buzz welder on my old clio. Held up okay, though it was messy as I'm a ham fisted ****er who should stick to welding gates and box iron.

    Fair enough, not on an a nice GTI but on something old? Carry on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    I think a trip to a fabricator is in order soon so!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    I think a trip to a fabricator is in order soon so!

    Drive it till it falls off! Would be good to know if it would pass without a cat. Id nearly stick it through with a bodge decat and if it works get a ss straight pipe made up. cats are the turbos enemy.

    might be picking up another fixerupper tomorrow. Seller seems honest about the issues...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,730 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Mycroft H wrote: »
    I'd say it's fine for the moment. Always see welds as temp repairs in an exhaust, if you need to weld it, it's not far off the bin.

    I've done it with a buzz welder on my old clio. Held up okay, though it was messy as I'm a ham fisted ****er who should stick to welding gates and box iron.

    Fair enough, not on an a nice GTI but on something old? Carry on.

    All the finest exhausts in the world are welded so that logic is out the window.
    If you're adding a new section of pipe there should be 3 options.
    1. Permanently welded in by a professional.
    2. Weld on flanges and bolt together with correct gaskets.
    3. Use a V Band Clamp if it's a part that's going to be taken off and put back on a lot, like a cat for NCT.

    What ever age the car, as long as it's something you car about, it should be done right.
    Good clean TIG will give the best results and a long lasting weld/exhaust.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Interslice wrote: »
    Drive it till it falls off! Would be good to know if it would pass without a cat. Id nearly stick it through with a bodge decat and if it works get a ss straight pipe made up. cats are the turbos enemy.

    might be picking up another fixerupper tomorrow. Seller seems honest about the issues...

    See thats the thing, it is falling off the only thing holding it on is that fire gum crap :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,730 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    See thats the thing, it is falling off the only thing holding it on is that fire gum crap :pac:

    And that's my point proven. :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    See thats the thing, it is falling off the only thing holding it on is that fire gum crap :pac:

    Looks fairly bodged together but another 30 quid should get you some more bodge. Wouldn't spend more than that on it. Id save up for a new one instead. 2.5 inch stainless from the turbo back would sound sweet!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Interslice wrote: »
    Looks fairly bodged together but another 30 quid should get you some more bodge. Wouldn't spend more than that on it. Id save up for a new one instead. 2.5 inch stainless from the turbo back would sound sweet!

    It is 2.5 ;)

    It's fine up until that point then something along the line went wonky and im trying to get it straight piped to the back from where it connects together, its the original exhaust, and the new ones are north of 600 quid :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,306 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    CianRyan wrote: »
    All the finest exhausts in the world are welded so that logic is out the window.
    If you're adding a new section of pipe there should be 3 options.
    1. Permanently welded in by a professional.
    2. Weld on flanges and bolt together with correct gaskets.
    3. Use a V Band Clamp if it's a part that's going to be taken off and put back on a lot, like a cat for NCT.

    What ever age the car, as long as it's something you car about, it should be done right.
    Good clean TIG will give the best results and a long lasting weld/exhaust.

    Yes, yes. We can all see that it's welded to start with.

    If your short of cash and there is a big split in the pipe or the box, usually any sort of a weld will sort it out temporarily. It's a bodge. I've done it when I've been stuck and will do it again if I have to.


    Point is, if you have to start welding a pipework, the rest of the system isn't usually far behind. Mild steel is going to fail sooner or later and if your welding it, usually it's better to just to start to replace sections. Otherwise your just going to prolonging the inevitable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,730 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Interslice wrote: »
    Looks fairly bodged together but another 30 quid should get you some more bodge. Wouldn't spend more than that on it. Id save up for a new one instead. 2.5 inch stainless from the turbo back would sound sweet!

    I agree with this too... A full system would be better than an 8" bit of new pipe.
    If there's a welder where you're always working on cars, clean the old weld off to flat, smooth it and around it with an emery pad to remove the rust and get a real welder to throw on a temporary nice run.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    It is 2.5 ;)

    It's fine up until that point then something along the line went wonky and im trying to get it straight piped to the back from where it connects together, its the original exhaust, and the new ones are north of 600 quid :o

    You get a custom ss for less than that. Trying to price one atm for the asti. Around 250/ 300 I think. Not sure.

    your exhaust tip looks like 2 1/4? Looks like a random donor back box!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,730 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Mycroft H wrote: »
    Yes, yes. We can all see that it's welded to start with.

    If your short of cash and there is a big split in the pipe or the box, usually any sort of a weld will sort it out temporarily. It's a bodge. I've done it when I've been stuck and will do it again if I have to.


    Point is, if you have to start welding a pipework, the rest of the system isn't usually far behind. Mild steel is going to fail sooner or later and if your welding it, usually it's better to just to start to replace sections. Otherwise your just going to prolonging the inevitable.

    This doesn't look like a little blow was sorted though, someone took out a piece of the system and added some ****ty mild steel for that "race car" sound effect. It's ****e like, pure ****e.

    A quick fix 'till you can get a proper pipe in is grand but that's not what we're talking about.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Interslice wrote: »
    You get a custom ss for less than that. Trying to price one atm for the asti. Around 250/ 300 I think. Not sure.

    your exhaust tip looks like 2 1/4? Looks like a random donor back box!

    Not so bad so! I'll look into it anyways, I've a few bits lined up so maybe next month or after


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,940 ✭✭✭✭bear1


    I'm ridiculously tempted by this:

    http://cars.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/need-gone-saab-95-3-0-tid-not-running-great/8882463?offset=22

    Wonder what the misfire could be.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Not so bad so! I'll look into it anyways, I've a few bits lined up so maybe next month or after

    Looked at it again. Is it just sitting on the arb?!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    bear1 wrote: »
    I'm ridiculously tempted by this:

    http://cars.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/need-gone-saab-95-3-0-tid-not-running-great/8882463?offset=22

    Wonder what the misfire could be.

    Cps sensor could be shot
    coilpack is fcuked
    Vacuum lines gone
    Shyte plugs

    Its something simple thats for sure, drag a scanner along and you'l know for sure ;)

    Wait just seen its a diesel, scrap the above :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Interslice wrote: »
    Looked at it again. Is it just sitting on the arb?!

    Yep! Its also tacked onto the exhaust with a sorta makeshift bracket so it wont entirely fall off

    It's a bloody disaster!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    bear1 wrote: »
    I'm ridiculously tempted by this:

    http://cars.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/need-gone-saab-95-3-0-tid-not-running-great/8882463?offset=22

    Wonder what the misfire could be.

    No bear. Just no!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,730 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Yep! Its also tacked onto the exhaust with a sorta makeshift bracket so it wont entirely fall off

    It's a bloody disaster!

    This is al hilarious to me. Haha


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,499 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Cps sensor could be shot
    coilpack is fcuked
    Vacuum lines gone
    Shyte plugs

    Its something simple thats for sure, drag a scanner along and you'l know for sure ;)

    Misfire on a 3.0 saab diesel not going to be cheap. Another accord that I reckon bear ;). Injectors fuel pump etc. Hows that going for you now?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    CianRyan wrote: »
    This is al hilarious to me. Haha

    Now that I think about it, it is to me too haha, ah well, i was gona put a 3 inch on it in the future anyway! Seriously though theres so much bodge work around the car its a joke, I'm not looking forward to pulling the dash because god only knows whats behind there wiring wise :o
    Interslice wrote: »
    Misfire on a 3.0 saab diesel not going to be cheap. Another accord that I reckon bear ;). Injectors fuel pump etc. Hows that going for you now?

    I thought it was a petrol, that's what caused any of my misfires :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,940 ✭✭✭✭bear1


    Interslice wrote: »
    Misfire on a 3.0 saab diesel not going to be cheap. Another accord that I reckon bear ;). Injectors fuel pump etc. Hows that going for you now?

    Accord seems to be going ok. Did a fairly long EU trip the other week in it with no problems.
    It's still doing the rattling noise when accelerating that no one seems to know how to get rid of.
    Getting to a point where I'm thinking of just accepting it.
    But the seat rattle has stopped on it's own amazingly :D
    Due a service soon including a nice expensive fuel filter from Honda.
    Had the airbag inflator replaced as well as per recall.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,940 ✭✭✭✭bear1


    Cps sensor could be shot
    coilpack is fcuked
    Vacuum lines gone
    Shyte plugs

    Its something simple thats for sure, drag a scanner along and you'l know for sure ;)

    Wait just seen its a diesel, scrap the above :o

    Googling it seems to suggest it's a common issue. Either there is a problem with the loom or the fuel pump starting to let go which is amazingly expensive they say :)


This discussion has been closed.
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