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Grant vortex 50-90

  • 29-01-2014 02:19PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭


    I'm trying to commission one at the moment. Brand new boiler. .50 80EH nozzle in it. CO is through the roof with the air at 5. The air is nearly down to 0 now and co is still well over 100. Smoke pump is 0. Co2 is at 10.3. 02 is around 6.5. I can't really shut off any more air. Pump pressure 7 bar.
    Any ideas??


«134

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 249 ✭✭crock!


    Try a new nozzle.make sure the fga fitting are in right espeicialy around the filter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    crock! wrote: »
    Try a new nozzle.make sure the fga fitting are in right espeicialy around the filter.

    Not sure what u mean by FGA fitting


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Not sure what u mean by FGA fitting

    He means to check that the FGA isn't drawing in air somewhere between the probe and the analyser.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    What kind of flue, low level or vertical?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,052 ✭✭✭jimf


    what model vortex is it balance flu if so is it any better with hose removed

    id say crock means inline filter on your fga itself


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    I tried a new .55 80 eh. Much better. Thanks lads


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    I'm trying to commission one at the moment. Brand new boiler. .50 80EH nozzle in it. CO is through the roof with the air at 5. The air is nearly down to 0 now and co is still well over 100. Smoke pump is 0. Co2 is at 10.3. 02 is around 6.5. I can't really shut off any more air. Pump pressure 7 bar.
    Any ideas??
    291287.jpg

    If the burner has this type of air box, it is not unknown for the dial to show adjustments without the shutter inside moving. If this sort of air box, then take it off and see if shutter is moving when you turn adjuster. Also make sure nothing is preventing a good seal between airbox and burner body.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,052 ✭✭✭jimf


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    I tried a new .55 80 eh. Much better. Thanks lads

    at this stage I nearly always think gammy nozzle if everything else seems ok


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    jimf wrote: »
    at this stage I nearly always think gammy nozzle if everything else seems ok

    Everything's grand now but co is 90. Higher than I'd like


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,052 ✭✭✭jimf


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Everything's grand now but co is 90. Higher than I'd like

    what model vortex dtp


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Everything's grand now but co is 90. Higher than I'd like

    What's your other settings like? Any markings on your smoke paper at this stage? I hate to ask, but i assume you checked the baffles were not knocked about during transport.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jimf wrote: »
    what model vortex dtp

    He said it was a 50-90, same as 15/26 afaik.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,052 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wearb wrote: »
    He said it was a 50-90, same as 15/26 afaik.

    I mean as in utility / boilerhouse / external


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,774 ✭✭✭JamesM


    I would try raising the pressure to 7.5 or even 8 bar.
    Jim


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jimf wrote: »
    I mean as in utility / boilerhouse / external

    Just as I posted the message, I suspected that that was what you meant. :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Ye it's the outdoor module 50-90. I do always check the baffles before I fire for the first time.
    It's not the first time I've seen the CO high on a vortex. I think 90 is the highest I've seen though


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Did you open the top plastic air box cover to see if the air intake plate was actually moving to your adjustment as suggested by Wearb?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Did you open the top plastic air box cover to see if the air intake plate was actually moving to your adjustment as suggested by Wearb?

    Ye it's the first thing I checked. Do you think 90 co is high?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Ye it's the first thing I checked. Do you think 90 co is high?

    Shut down, for me, is 100ppm for oil so I would certainly not be happy with 90. I would expect circa 35 - 45 for a new boiler & that will drop to 5 - 15 once the coatings have been burned off.
    Something is amiss IMO.
    You should also not have to drop the nozzle size in order to get better combustion with that boiler.
    Pump pressure ok?
    Fuel? A lot of iffy fuel about.
    Check again in a couple of days & if still off, out it through as a warranty call.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Shut down, for me, is 100ppm for oil so I would certainly not be happy with 90. I would expect circa 35 - 45 for a new boiler & that will drop to 5 - 15 once the coatings have been burned off.
    Something is amiss IMO.
    You should also not have to drop the nozzle size in order to get better combustion with that boiler.
    Pump pressure ok?
    Fuel? A lot of iffy fuel about.
    Check again in a couple of days & if still off, out it through as a warranty call.

    I only dropped the nozzle size to suit the heat demand of the house. Pump pressure is 7 bar. What checks can I do for dodgy fuel except test for water?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,052 ✭✭✭jimf


    as all on here know I don't do installs but have commissioned quite a few vortex for diff plumbers in my area and I can honestly say I have never come across one any way near your reading dtp

    I think the average would be along the 30/50ppm range

    the good thing is you have a great company to go back to and have great pride in their products


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    I only dropped the nozzle size to suit the heat demand of the house. Pump pressure is 7 bar. What checks can I do for dodgy fuel except test for water?

    I used to have a 25 litre drum with some kerosene and with a connection that I could use to fire up new boilers that didn't have oil in new tank. I loaned it to a person that had run out of oil and they ended up breaking it. Perhaps it had gotten brittle anyway. I never replaced it, but it would be good for checking for bad oil.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Try put it back to MI with a 0.65 on 8.5bar pressure. MI's is a 0.50 on 7bar, but that shouldn't make much of a difference. By increasing the pump pressure to 7.5bar that will use up a decent amount of XS air & the CO will drop more.

    I made up a small container to attach a temporary supply of my fuel to test burners. This will eliminate customer fuel supply concerns.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Try put it back to MI with a 0.65 on 8.5bar pressure. MI's is a 0.50 on 7bar, but that shouldn't make much of a difference. By increasing the pump pressure to 7.5bar that will use up a decent amount of XS air & the CO will drop more.

    I made up a small container to attach a temporary supply of my fuel to test burners. This will eliminate customer fuel supply concerns.

    So basically try .5 80 EH at 7.5?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,052 ✭✭✭jimf


    I suppose if you could try and take a positive from dtp experience today is the importance of having boilers commissioned


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    So basically try .5 80 EH at 7.5?

    You put in a 0.55 80EH nozzle set to 7.0 bar pressure, correct?

    MI is 0.50 80EH at 7.0 bar or a 0.60 at 8.0 bar or a factory set 0.65 at 8.5 bar. You have increased the fuel from the minimum but decreased the pressure, resulting in too much air.
    So, either decrease the fuel or increase the pump pressure, by leaving your 0.55 & increase the pressure to 7.5. This will use up the XS air, which will lower your CO.

    Or re-instate factory settings & see if all is ok, then make your amendments. If you cannot achieve factory settings, you can prove fuel supply is good, then put through a warranty call.

    Is door on or off whilst analyising?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 12,948 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    shane0007 wrote: »
    You put in a 0.55 80EH nozzle set to 7.0 bar pressure, correct?

    MI is 0.50 80EH at 7.0 bar or a 0.60 at 8.0 bar or a factory set 0.65 at 8.5 bar. You have increased the fuel from the minimum but decreased the pressure, resulting in too much air.
    So, either decrease the fuel or increase the pump pressure, by leaving your 0.55 & increase the pressure to 7.5. This will use up the XS air, which will lower your CO.

    Or re-instate factory settings & see if all is ok, then make your amendments. If you cannot achieve factory settings, you can prove fuel supply is good, then put through a warranty call.

    Is door on or off whilst analyising?

    Door always on. I only out in the .55 because that's all I had in the van I originally had the .5 in but was getting crazy high CO that nozzle


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Id agree with shane and set it up to factory settings with a proven fuel supply,ie. 23kw.If you can achieve factory settings,then you could set it up to get 15kw.The burner head should be changed from a T2 to T1 when setting boiler below 23kw


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Ok. Could have been a dodgy 0.5 nozzle. Increase pump pressure to 7.5 for the 0.55 & see how that is. You might find it will bring the CO down to the 40's or less & for the first few fires that would be perfectly acceptable.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    agusta wrote: »
    The burner head should be changed from a T2 to T1 when setting boiler below 23kw

    Very good point, I never even thought of the required head change. This would also have an effect on combustion.

    RTFM :eek::D


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