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Ikea have reduced all LED lightbulbs

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Comments

  • #92
    L1011
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 74,559 ✭✭✭✭L1011


    ted1 wrote: »
    nonsense i have replaced 8 50W GU10s with 8 4W gu10s (more matchign 35W but 50W) were to bright and i'm more than happy with the performance

    I was referring to temperature, clearly enough.


  • #93
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    manonboard wrote: »
    All the stickers on the shelves referenced GU10 lights with 3.4 watts with 140lm for 5 euro. However, every light on the shelves there was GU10 4W 200lm for 5 euro. There were no MR16 lights available above 1W.. which was annoying as I wanted 8 for my families home.

    Do you mean the light output 140lm is rubbish for watts? Do you have any links to better performance at comparable prices? I'd love to obviously get better ones for my other 6 lights if I can.

    Looks like they repackaged the mr16 chip on board as gu10 then 200 lumens for a fiver is decent for a gu10. Thats about the same as a decent 35w.

    Saving 31w bulb pays for itself in 900 hours.

    At 140lm the room would be very dark you'd want to be adding more lamps.


  • #94
    vibe666
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    LooksLikeRain wrote: »
    Just converted all my MR16 to GU10 over the weekend. I needed to do it now as adding insulation in the comming weeks.
    I was able to purchase the new fitting from my local expert hardware for only €2! its the GU10 flex connector in the link.
    the attached link shows you how its done.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/LED-Spotlight-down-lighting-conversion-guide-for-GU10-and-MR16-/10000000177609363/g.html
    Has anyone used the GU10 LEDs from Dunnes?

    Thanks

    Rainer
    if you were going to the trouble of changing the fitting anyway, you would have been much better off (imho) going with dedicated LED units with a proper heatsink rather than a GU10. they will be much cheaper and last much longer than the equiv. GU10 LED.


  • #95
    manonboard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    LooksLikeRain wrote: »
    The address is Rathfarnham but its really ballinteer\marley

    http://www.experthardware.ie/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=24:devines-hardware-rathfarnham&catid=7

    Thanks. Popped into that shop today whilst I was out in that area and got two of the flexi connectors. They do not have any more right now, but should have them back in on Friday

    I picked a great 35W CFL which is 175W equiv Daylight color. Really needed something like this for my living room.

    They had this great electric tap aswell. Has one set up on display out the back. Turn it on and hot water in 1-2 seconds. Was quite impressive.
    vibe666 wrote: »
    if you were going to the trouble of changing the fitting anyway, you would have been much better off (imho) going with dedicated LED units with a proper heatsink rather than a GU10. they will be much cheaper and last much longer than the equiv. GU10 LED.

    I thought the idea of this was that the LED 12V MR16 bulbs are much more expensive than the GU10 lights? the GU10 lights will last 25,000 hours (according to packet). That's quite a long time. Do the MR16 last much longer?


  • #96
    vibe666
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,016 ✭✭✭✭vibe666


    i'm not talking about MR16 bulbs, i mean a dedicated sealed LED unit.

    they're slightly bigger diameter than the GU10 socket, but considerably cheaper and have a big fat heatsink on the back to dissipate heat effectively and prolong the life of the lamp.

    somehting like the ones listed in this post about the ibood LED's from the other day.

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=86794104&postcount=59

    compared to GU10's they're significantly cheaper, with better output and a longer lifespan etc.


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  • #97
    manonboard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    vibe666 wrote: »
    i'm not talking about MR16 bulbs, i mean a dedicated sealed LED unit.

    they're slightly bigger diameter than the GU10 socket, but considerably cheaper and have a big fat heatsink on the back to dissipate heat effectively and prolong the life of the lamp.

    somehting like the ones listed in this post about the ibood LED's from the other day.

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=86794104&postcount=59

    compared to GU10's they're significantly cheaper, with better output and a longer lifespan etc.

    Is there any disadvantage to these? Do you know why they are cheaper than GU10 lights which seems to contain less materials(cost)?

    They seem to tick alot of the boxes alright. I never came across them before.


  • #98
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    manonboard wrote: »
    Is there any disadvantage to these? Do you know why they are cheaper than GU10 lights which seems to contain less materials(cost)?

    They seem to tick alot of the boxes alright. I never came across them before.

    Downside is businesses and average home user will need a sparks to install, the expensive ones are very expensive as they are targetted at commercial rather than domestic market and the cheap ones are theusual gamble with chinese stuff - incorrect assembly, overdriven leds, scrapped leds from reputable companies, crude switching circuits, incorrect colour temperature, vastly overstated lumens output etc. etc. You never know what will turn up in the box. That applies to all the cheap bulbs too though, you have a greater chance of success with these because they have better cooling (if you look at even quality manufacturers e.g. philips the difference in lifespan @ 62, 72 and 82 celcius is huge and thats with a reputable supplier). There are lots of suppliers reselling these at several times the price. Obviously buy from a supplier with good reviews.

    In the short term I think the likes of the new ikea gu10s manonboard found are ok at a fiver, spec is on the last page here:http://www.ikea.com/ms/en_US/pdf/light_energy_bulb/ledare_20130527.pdf
    In the next 2 years we should be seeing much better bulbs at sensible prices. What are the warranty details on those by the way manonboard?


  • #99
    bennyob
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 703 ✭✭✭bennyob


    I have 4 of these on a strip in my kitchen for the last year or so. Very happy with them.

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006UR5IUY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


  • #100
    manonboard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    popped up to ikea today to finish off replacing the 6 GU10s i needed.

    Just to let everyone know, they've refilled thier stock of MR16/GU5.3 lights. They had none for the last 2 weeks, but they have the 12volt ones in now @ 5euro. 3.8W, 200lum.

    It's handier than picking up the connectors


  • #101
    manonboard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    Just incase it's not an isolated incident.

    I've had bad experience with these MR16 LEDs from IKEA.

    1 transformer seems to have completely broke, and 2 others seem to not fully ignite 2 of the bulbs.

    We previously ran 50W MR16 for the last 8 years with no issues.

    I don't know if the transformers are not suited or if it is bad bulbs.


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  • #102
    clint_silver
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,915 ✭✭✭clint_silver


    manonboard wrote: »
    Just incase it's not an isolated incident.

    I've had bad experience with these MR16 LEDs from IKEA.

    1 transformer seems to have completely broke, and 2 others seem to not fully ignite 2 of the bulbs.

    We previously ran 50W MR16 for the last 8 years with no issues.

    I don't know if the transformers are not suited or if it is bad bulbs.
    You don't run those off transformers.


  • #103
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    clint_silver wrote: »
    You don't run those off transformers.

    MR16? You must have a funny voltage in your house :eek:
    manonboard wrote: »
    I don't know if the transformers are not suited or if it is bad bulbs.

    Likely the case some of the old transformers would be completely unregulated so the voltage at a tiny load like leds could be 16-20v. Also some of the switchmode ones won't start or regulate properly with such a low load.


  • #104
    clint_silver
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,915 ✭✭✭clint_silver


    paddyp wrote: »
    MR16? You must have a funny voltage in your house :eek:



    Likely the case some of the old transformers would be completely unregulated so the voltage at a tiny load like leds could be 16-20v. Also some of the switchmode ones won't start or regulate properly with such a low load.
    Oops. Brain fart, Gu10s I have. Kitted the whole house out last year with 4, 5 and 6 watt LEDs from china. Bought a bag of gu10 adaptors for a couple of euro off ebay and threw out all the old transformers that had been there. Never a problem with any of them.


  • #105
    manonboard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,100 ✭✭✭manonboard


    clint_silver wrote: »
    You don't run those off transformers.
    paddyp wrote: »
    MR16? You must have a funny voltage in your house :eek:



    Likely the case some of the old transformers would be completely unregulated so the voltage at a tiny load like leds could be 16-20v. Also some of the switchmode ones won't start or regulate properly with such a low load.


    I think I might chalk this one down to bad choice and pull out the transformers of the lights giving problems and swap in the GU10s and connectors. Will be sad to waste the MR16 bulbs but the GU10s seem better.


  • #106
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    manonboard wrote: »
    I think I might chalk this one down to bad choice and pull out the transformers of the lights giving problems and swap in the GU10s and connectors. Will be sad to waste the MR16 bulbs but the GU10s seem better.

    I'd say take them back say they don't work and get gu10.


  • #107
    Yakuza
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,130 ✭✭✭Yakuza


    A quick question - can I just whip out my halogen MR16s (the connection looks like two needle points a few mm apart) that I have in the kitchen and straight up replace them with LED MR16s? I read about transformer this and voltage that and am a bit confused. I have 10 50W ones in my kitchen (one circuit of 6 and one of 4, no dimmer switch) and I'd love to replace them with something cheaper to run.


  • #108
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    Yakuza wrote: »
    A quick question - can I just whip out my halogen MR16s (the connection looks like two needle points a few mm apart) that I have in the kitchen and straight up replace them with LED MR16s? I read about transformer this and voltage that and am a bit confused. I have 10 50W ones in my kitchen (one circuit of 6 and one of 4, no dimmer switch) and I'd love to replace them with something cheaper to run.

    It depends on the transformer, also bear in mind that if you have old wirewound transformers they might lose as much power or more than the leds draw so you'd be better converting to gu10.


  • #109
    Yakuza
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,130 ✭✭✭Yakuza


    Thanks, I'll contact the guy who put them in (they were installed in 2004 when I extended my kitchen. I've no idea where the transformer is (I didn't even know there was one!) and see what's involved in the switch over.


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