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Diet feeders

24

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 171 ✭✭Going forward...


    yes, has problems discharging the final 100 ish kilos though

    A quick blast in the 1000 pto will get most out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    Hi.
    We feed grass silage and chop around a tonne of beet to around 100 head of cattle (cows and fatteners) daily during the winter. We're back almost 30% on last winters silage over two farms, but in the past 12 months I've sold a few hundred bales of barley straw. I'm planning to mix the straw thru the silage to bulk it up and throw the beet into the mix too. Vets and nutritionists have said the cows/cattle should do well with more roughage in the diet.

    1) Of the feeders on the market which type is best suited to the diet I intend to feed? I'm leaning towards a tub at the minute but don't fancy taking several models on trial.

    2) Am I feeding enough stock to justify a feeder? There's about another 100 head of cattle that I could theoretically feed silage/straw to aswell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    lefthooker wrote: »
    Hi.
    We feed grass silage and chop around a tonne of beet to around 100 head of cattle (cows and fatteners) daily during the winter. We're back almost 30% on last winters silage over two farms, but in the past 12 months I've sold a few hundred bales of barley straw. I'm planning to mix the straw thru the silage to bulk it up and throw the beet into the mix too. Vets and nutritionists have said the cows/cattle should do well with more roughage in the diet.

    1) Of the feeders on the market which type is best suited to the diet I intend to feed? I'm leaning towards a tub at the minute but don't fancy taking several models on trial.

    2) Am I feeding enough stock to justify a feeder? There's about another 100 head of cattle that I could theoretically feed silage/straw to aswell.

    its an expensive way of incorporating a bit of straw into a diet. This could be done by just forking a bale at evening time after giving the silage in the morning. root chopper bucket for the beet dumped along on top of the straw would work nicely.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    its an expensive way of incorporating a bit of straw into a diet. This could be done by just forking a bale at evening time after giving the silage in the morning. root chopper bucket for the beet dumped along on top of the straw would work nicely.

    I can see your point alright bob. I have thought about it, it would be a big saving but there are a few things against it.
    I tried feeding straw to dryatock before, there was as much on the slats as there was in their bellies.
    It would mean feeding them 3 times a day.
    I think your method would work better if I was only feeding one side of a passage. I only have a 13ft passage and feed both sides.
    And we banished the sprong from the passage last winter. I can shove silage into both sides, 12 spans in total with a wedge on the 165 in under a minute.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    lefthooker wrote: »
    I can see your point alright bob. I have thought about it, it would be a big saving but there are a few things against it.
    I tried feeding straw to dryatock before, there was as much on the slats as there was in their bellies.
    It would mean feeding them 3 times a day.
    I think your method would work better if I was only feeding one side of a passage. I only have a 13ft passage and feed both sides.
    And we banished the sprong from the passage last winter. I can shove silage into both sides, 12 spans in total with a wedge on the 165.

    do you really need straw in the diet? they might as well be eating fresh air but maybe you need it to keep stomachs working right, maybe this could be achieved with feed ingredient mixed with a bit of ration. What % of animals can feed at any one time


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    do you really need straw in the diet? they might as well be eating fresh air but maybe you need it to keep stomachs working right, maybe this could be achieved with feed ingredient mixed with a bit of ration. What % of animals can feed at any one time

    I don't NEED straw in the diet for digestive reasons. I'm looking at it from POV of having a lot less silage and having a few hundred spare bales of top quality barley straw. I've often noticed after bedding houses there's as many calves and yearlings eating straw as there are eating the fresh silage.

    I suppose if the feeder is big enough I can feed all 100 cattle in one go. The cows and cattle get the same basic mix and I supplement with ration depending on the group of animals. It would also be possible to feed the rest of the cattle with another tub as they are smaller stock.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    lefthooker wrote: »
    I don't NEED straw in the diet for digestive reasons. I'm looking at it from POV of having a lot less silage and having a few hundred spare bales of top quality barley straw. I've often noticed after bedding houses there's as many calves and yearlings eating straw as there are eating the fresh silage.

    I suppose if the feeder is big enough I can feed all 100 cattle in one go. The cows and cattle get the same basic mix and I supplement with ration depending on the group of animals. It would also be possible to feed the rest of the cattle with another tub as they are smaller stock.

    your going to allot of expensive to feed a product with no feed value that you dont need to feed. Can you just restrict the diet to the animal and spare it that way. Make up the shortage in barley as the cost of running a feeder for a year will buy you 15ton of grain min

    Im forming my view as someone who uses a feeder every day of the year and am an advocator of the feeder when circumstances are correct.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 216 ✭✭tim04750


    Google "kuhn 1460" or "kverneland 612" thats the type of feeder you want , twin augers in the bottem ,very easy to drive, never blocks no matter what kind of bales you toss in , dont break shear bolts or chains, and you can drive five miles with it loaded and there's no problem restarting with settled silage. Just make sure there is plenty of metal left in the augers worn ones are expensive to replace, and make sure the weigh cells are working. Its nice to have them if you intend to sell it on after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    do you already have a beet chopper box?

    like bob says the diet feeder can be expensive to run but can also be of benfit. however if you want to feed beet straw and silage as a short term solution that might help uout for this year then i sugesst a more simple approch. we do this from time to time to add in straw and to strech out the silage

    roll out a bale of straw along the feed barrier, then drop you silage on top of the straw you can then run your chopper box to drop the beet on top of the silage. the cattle will eat their way down through teh silage to the straw. if you passage is wide enough you can put in 2 days worth of feedign one go (the bale is 4 feet wide) and the catlle will only eat out about half way. the next day push the rest into the barrier and they clean it off. If you make up a silage pusher from and old tyre it'll push in the feed and mix it up a bit too.

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo_Z1glMcD0


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    yellow50HX wrote: »
    do you already have a beet chopper box?

    like bob says the diet feeder can be expensive to run but can also be of benfit. however if you want to feed beet straw and silage as a short term solution that might help uout for this year then i sugesst a more simple approch. we do this from time to time to add in straw and to strech out the silage

    roll out a bale of straw along the feed barrier, then drop you silage on top of the straw you can then run your chopper box to drop the beet on top of the silage. the cattle will eat their way down through teh silage to the straw. if you passage is wide enough you can put in 2 days worth of feedign one go (the bale is 4 feet wide) and the catlle will only eat out about half way. the next day push the rest into the barrier and they clean it off. If you make up a silage pusher from and old tyre it'll push in the feed and mix it up a bit too.

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo_Z1glMcD0

    Are you feeding both sides of a passage or along a feed barrier, What width is your passage?

    I have a Tanco cleanafeeder, I wash and chop 2 hoppers 7 days a week. I also got a wedge made for the 3 point linkage that pushes silage into both sides and then can drag out old feed too.

    The problem I see myself having is that a bale won't roll the full length of the passage like one of the old farmhand bales would and I'd need to roll out to both sides. The passage is 13ft wide and with that I'd imagine there would be an awful amount of straw to drive over for to feed the silage and then the beet. And with all the driving over the straw would it not go to **** if you were coming in off wet yards.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,925 ✭✭✭stanflt


    tim04750 wrote: »
    Google "kuhn 1460" or "kverneland 612" thats the type of feeder you want , twin augers in the bottem ,very easy to drive, never blocks no matter what kind of bales you toss in , dont break shear bolts or chains, and you can drive five miles with it loaded and there's no problem restarting with settled silage. Just make sure there is plenty of metal left in the augers worn ones are expensive to replace, and make sure the weigh cells are working. Its nice to have them if you intend to sell it on after.


    Neighbour has one of these Kuhns and he had stopped using it- when putting in dry bales they get wedged between the augers and takes hours to clear out- kinda opposite to what you said would happen


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    lefthooker wrote: »
    Are you feeding both sides of a passage or along a feed barrier, What width is your passage?

    I have a Tanco cleanafeeder, I wash and chop 2 hoppers 7 days a week. I also got a wedge made for the 3 point linkage that pushes silage into both sides and then can drag out old feed too.

    The problem I see myself having is that a bale won't roll the full length of the passage like one of the old farmhand bales would and I'd need to roll out to both sides. The passage is 13ft wide and with that I'd imagine there would be an awful amount of straw to drive over for to feed the silage and then the beet. And with all the driving over the straw would it not go to **** if you were coming in off wet yards.

    We have a 4 bay feed passage but its only about 9-10 feet wide. I actually have to roll the bale back to get one into the passage. I usually throw 2 bales on top so don't dirty the bale much.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭jersey101


    I dont know if they still fo it but keenan used to rent out diet feeders to farmers for the winter. That could sort you out for this year and then you can see if you really need one


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 216 ✭✭tim04750


    Neighbour has one of these Kuhns and he had stopped using it- when putting in dry bales they get wedged between the augers and takes hours to clear out- kinda opposite to what you said would happen

    You're sure its a twin auger and not a four auger mixer ?
    If there's even half a set of knives on it you couldn't block it , unless you threw in a bale of rope.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    jersey101 wrote: »
    I dont know if they still fo it but keenan used to rent out diet feeders to farmers for the winter. That could sort you out for this year and then you can see if you really need one

    There was an Abbey 1250 delivered to the yard this morning, I have the heifers in the cubicles for training before scanning. I had baled silage yday evening, two bales had burst so I threw them in with a bale of straw. Did a good job of chopping and mixing and heifers and cows swept it.
    I'm do a lot I business with the this garage so I'll try a rent to buy deal to see if it suits my needs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    Ok lads,

    I've been playing with the feeder for the last 2 days and I can see a place for it here. Only thing I can't determine is how big a feeder do I need, ie what capacity do I need to feed 100 cows for 1 day? Can any of ye tell me an idea of how much I need?

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    lefthooker wrote: »
    Ok lads,

    I've been playing with the feeder for the last 2 days and I can see a place for it here. Only thing I can't determine is how big a feeder do I need, ie what capacity do I need to feed 100 cows for 1 day? Can any of ye tell me an idea of how much I need?

    Thanks.

    bigger than you think you will need ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,246 ✭✭✭sheebadog


    16 to 17 cubic meters should be enough I reckon. However I would prefer to go for 24 or 25 cube. Something I will have to be looking into for next year as I just have had mine relined.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,190 ✭✭✭jersey101


    I have a 10 cubic meter keenan feeds 60 cows. 14 cubic meter will feed 100 cows no bother


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,082 ✭✭✭td5man


    Anyone know how much it would cost to reline a 10m keenan??


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    Surely the OP could do 2 loads.

    Also if he wants the MF 165 to drive it that will govern size too?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    nashmach wrote: »
    Surely the OP could do 2 loads.

    Also if he wants the MF 165 to drive it that will govern size too?

    I have the 165 set up for shoving in silage only, starting her every day keeps the battery charged in her.

    I'll be driving it with a Landini 9880 or JD 6900. I want to be able to feed with as few mixes as possible


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    nashmach wrote: »
    Surely the OP could do 2 loads.

    Also if he wants the MF 165 to drive it that will govern size too?

    you will mix one big load allot faster than two half loads.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,949 ✭✭✭delaval


    lefthooker wrote: »
    Ok lads,

    I've been playing with the feeder for the last 2 days and I can see a place for it here. Only thing I can't determine is how big a feeder do I need, ie what capacity do I need to feed 100 cows for 1 day? Can any of ye tell me an idea of how much I need?

    Thanks.

    Minimum 14cum. If using dry bales bigger may be required


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    delaval wrote: »
    Minimum 14cum. If using dry bales bigger may be required

    I was talking with my neighbour, he bought a 12cubic abbey after trying 4-5 makes. He feeds 40 cows for 2 days easily. That wouldn't be too far off my goal.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,786 ✭✭✭✭whelan1


    td5man wrote: »
    Anyone know how much it would cost to reline a 10m keenan??
    theres a guy near edgeworthstown called david campbell that does them, pm me if you want his number, oh transports feeders over and back to him, he does a great job


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    td5man wrote: »
    Anyone know how much it would cost to reline a 10m keenan??

    Would think 2200 wouldnt be too far out


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nashmach


    lefthooker wrote: »
    I have the 165 set up for shoving in silage only, starting her every day keeps the battery charged in her.

    I'll be driving it with a Landini 9880 or JD 6900. I want to be able to feed with as few mixes as possible

    Oh okay.

    Given the 9880, has about 90 PTO hp and is the less powerfull of the two there it will have no issues with a 14 or even a 16 cubic metre feeder.

    There is a 14 HiSpec paddle mixer with chopper on the back and being driven by a 75hp old Lamborghini.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    I done a season with a 165 driving a 14 cube, used to pull the handle throttle about 90% of the way down and load up. No cobwebs in that engine and nowadays is nearly a pioneer on diesel :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭lefthooker


    So I've been playing with the feeder over the weekend and am pretty sure I'm going to invest. Still tossing over whether the 12 cubic is big enough or go up to 14.

    Now, "Question of the day" time. Side or rear discharge??? For my purposes rear might be a good option. Is there much difference in the rate of discharge between the two? Is it hard to judge how much your putting out since the view is obstructed and you rely on the weight cell to tell you?

    Sorry for all the questions but I like to toss up every scenario.


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