STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

an update on my last post i put the stove on today to see exactly what it does i notice that it takes a long time to heat cyclinder + return was only luke warm but another concern is that when the pump came on it took all the hot water from top and bottom pipes of coil in the cyclinder and then put all the cold water into the boiler ie flow and return were cold
any idea what is going on:(

New Stove Stanley Oisin
Hi All

I am new to the forum and have a question in relation to solid fuel stoves. We have decided to opt for the Stanley Oisin stove to heat our new single storey extension room. We will need to get a new flu installed and would like to know who to chat to about this. If anybody knows a good registered Stanley Agent who could advise, install flu, stove could you PM me?

Thank a mil
J

I've found a modena 21kw back boiler stove for 700 euro. This comapres to the henley druid 21kw for 1200 Euro. Anyone got any idea why there is sure a big difference in price and if the modena stove is any good. Thanks.

Hi Everyone, I am fitting a Cara Stanley insert stove & have attached the flexi fuel to the spigot using the grub screws provided but how do i seal this joint correctly before i move flexi to its final position.

Has anyone installed one of these?

any help would be greatly appreciated

Robbie.G wrote: »

Flexi should not be connected directly to stove there should be a 600mm solid pipe first then flexi.Flexi should also be 6in even though the collar on stove is 5in you use a 6-5 adaptor

Hi Robbie

Thanks for your response. We have fitted a 5" flexi and connected it to the spigot. Is this dangerous or just not best practice?

arse..biscuits wrote: »

Hi, I'm building a cabin out the back garden and I have a pot belly stove that I want to put in. I'm thinking the flue will go straight up and through the roof. The roof is 4*2s with an OSB sheet on top (built) and I want torch-on felt on top of that (not done yet). Anyway, I'm not sure what sort of flue I need, especially with regards to passing through a wooden material. Also, is it best to do the flue first and torch-on felt after?
I have already built a small brick wall behind where the stove will sit.

Any advice would be appreciated as I want to get the job finished soon.

Thanks,
Colin.

has the cabin concrete block walls, and put the flue out there rather than through the roof, which is a danger in my opinion

Robbie.G wrote: »

You can use twin wall flue.Dont attempt to do this yourself get in a professional as there are also a lot of other things that have to be taken into account

Know anyone near Firhouse that could price it?

a boiler stove brings the clearance to combustibles requirement right down to 150 or 160mm

Hi all, looking for some suggestions/advice
Need to install back boiler multi-fuel stove as we have a supply of turf, after 8 months in the house existing OFCH is totally inadequate. The problems are the existing heating system is pressurised, the single-coil cylinder is downstairs, can't really connect pipework under the floor, opening of the stonework fireplace is only 2ft by 2ft and we have 5 cast irons radiators downstairs presumably holding way more water than conventional ones aswell a 5 ordinary ones. Plumbers are all suggesting different solutions, house is 1700 sqft and poorly insulated which will be addressed later. Should i widen fireplace for bigger stove, change cast iron radiators, change tank upstairs???? Any advice would be appreciated

Galway84 wrote: »

I am now going to add a 600mm flue pipe using this MI adaptor
But would the 5" flexi flue be safe.

The flexi is the wrong size.It should be 6in.

DaisyBeeton wrote: »

Hello Stove Fan, or anyone who can help, please,

I would greatly appreciate your superb, expert advice, please.
I am really at my wit's end with a new build with my heating system. I have had three plumbers look at the problems and each one is contradictating the other and having conflicting solutions. I contacted the manufactuers as well, who told me have a plumber look at it - a 4th one??!
I am so confused now that I don't know where to turn, or what to do.

I have a Hamco Glenmore 30B Boiler Stove. It is supposed to offer 23 KWs to the water and "service the largest of homes and the most demanding of central heating requirements". But, it won't even heat 8 double rads for me! My new build house is 3,300 sq feet, with excellent insulation.

I have oil central heating with a Firebird Boiler C44. The back boiler stove was an after thought. It is located in a recessed inglenook style fireplace, (see the photo of the location that I have attached, please), with 8" clay flue pipes, with a 30 degree bend on it, through masonry wall. The room is an open plan area of 25' X 20', with 8' ceilings, with excellent insulation.

But, the stove/plumbing system aren't heating my rads. The upper inch or so of the rads gets bearly luke warm, while the rest of the rad remains ice cold. This is in spite of a coal fire for 10 or 11 hours a day. The water in the taps is steaming hot and even the skim on the wall where the clay pipe is passing through, above the mantle beam, has a single crack on it (another upset), so there seems to be massive heat being emitted from the stove itself.

I have attached a photo of the stove's enamel flue pipe attached to a stainless adapator, which in turn is attached to the clay liners. Should this adapator be clay too, to suit the clay liner? Is this why the clay liner seems to be absorbing so much heat from the stainless adapator, which might have caused the crack on the wall, above the mantle beam?

There are four pipes at the back of the stove, but only two are connected. Only 1 out of the 3 plumbers said that the 4 pipes should be connected. The other said that 4 pipes won't make any dramatic difference. The pump and stat are located on the opposite side of the masonry wall immediately behind the stove, I attached a photo of this too.

The stat is set at 50 degress, but the pump only comes on for two minutes, every 10 minutes, regardless of whether I burn turf, wood, or coal, for 10 hours a day. Surely it should remain on for longer than just 2 minutes. Is the stat located on the correct pipe? One plumber moved it to vertical pipe and then the 2nd plumber came and put it back on the horizontal pipe again! It didn't seem to make any difference.

I have 15 double rads installed and there are 6 more yet to be installed (3 cast iron Victorian style rads - totalling 18,300 BTUs and 3 towel rails, totalling 10,100 BTUs.

The 15 rads that are presently installed comprise of:-
2 X (1600mm wide x 500mm high), double
1 X (1400mm wide x 500mm high), double
1 X (1300mm wide x 500mm high), double
4 X (1000mm wide x 500mm high), double
3 X (800mm wide x 500mm high), double
4 X (500mm wide x 500mm high), double.

I know that this is a very high demand on the stove, so I tried to reduce the load on it by closing down 7 of those rads, which left just 8 double rads to be heated, but there wasn't any big difference in the temp of the rads - still just bearly lukewarm on the top area.

I have a 300 litre triple coil, unvented Joule cylinder in the hotpress if that information is needed.

I would be grateful for any advice, please.

Thanks a million for your time.

Hi DaisyBeeton, I saw your posting when i was looking at possible improvements for the same stove Hamco Genmore 30B and though i would share what i found. I'm no expert and I'm not a plumber if anyone sees problems with what i advise feel free to correct me. Even though your information is from a year and half ago i thought you may still have the same issue.

My Setup
Solar tank
Solar panels
19 rads ( 17 of which are doubles)
Oil boiler ( second heat source to heat water and rads).
Every room is zoned with its own thermostat.

My stove is setup with all 4 outlets on the back of the stove connected. The stat for switching on the transfer of heat for the rads is mount behind the stove on the top left output. For a year i was getting the similar situation as you where the rad's only got hot on the top area. Following some testing myself i found i could only heat a few rad's if all the others where switched off, even though the stove was fully loaded and damper open. Also hot water from the hot taps was roasting.

A few points that help me:
1. Stat replaced on stove:
I noticed that the stat didn't kick in at the set temperature.
I ended up getting the stat on the back of the stove replaced and it made a big difference.
2. Hot water
Also i find the hot water tank has to be heated before you see any benefit to the radiators. I have a 300litre tank so the stove has to be lit for an hour or more before it will heat the radiators. But i think this is normal with back boilers. After the stat change it is perfect. The Stat change also fix the roasting hot water tap issue.

3. Amount of Radiators being heated.
When i bought the stove i was told the stove would only heat 20 standard size rads. The fact i have 17 doubles i now accept the stove will only really only heat 8 large double rads. I now set the temperature in the main rooms (sitting room and living space) to 19-21 degrees and all other rooms (bedrooms) to 10-12 degrees. Change them as required. Seems to have helped alot. Also my stove is in my sitting room that opens through double doors to the kitchen. I use the stove to directly heat these rooms and leave these rads off.

Hope some of this helps.
I would be interested to hear if you found any solution to your problem.

Thanks,

I'm currently in the process of renovating my house. I'm installing solars and a boiler stove and already have oil fired central heating in the house. I would of though that I would need a new triple coil cylinder but my plumber says I won't. That a dual coil cylinder with the boiler stove and oil running off the same system will be fine (with the solars on their own system).

I don't know the plumber and I have no reason not to trust him but I want to be sure he's not taking a short cut. The new solars and stove are accounting for a large chunk for my overall spend so I want to make sure I'm getting the best possible system.

I'd really appreciate any advise. Thanks.