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Today I ordered

17374767879174

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    A dual-coil like that would only get going at 5v+, so if you were watching someone using it on a ProVari or something that would make sense.

    Even with the Twist turned up to 4.8v it's amp-limit will keep the voltage at 3.7v max, which is piddly. 5w per coil = piddly vape.

    I like that the word 'piddly' is in my phone's dictionary, gonna use it more often now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭redkid


    grindle wrote: »
    A dual-coil like that would only get going at 5v+, so if you were watching someone using it on a ProVari or something that would make sense.

    Even with the Twist turned up to 4.8v it's amp-limit will keep the voltage at 3.7v max, which is piddly. 5w per coil = piddly vape.

    I like that the word 'piddly' is in my phone's dictionary, gonna use it more often now.


    I'm liking the word piddly too grin. A poor vape hence forward shall be known as a piddly vape :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    It took FIVE HOURS to come up with that...


    piddly *titter*
    (ooh, I like titter as well!)


    RESPONSE?!?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭redkid


    grindle wrote: »
    It took FIVE HOURS to come up with that...


    piddly *titter*
    (ooh, I like titter as well!)


    RESPONSE?!?

    Piddly>titter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    redkid wrote: »
    Piddly>titter

    Sounds like my kind of perversion.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭redkid


    grindle wrote: »
    Sounds like my kind of perversion.

    It's amazing what you can come up with in five hours.

    Btw dictionary has no definition


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    redkid wrote: »
    dictionary has no definition

    :eek:

    jQwKk4E.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭csi vegas


    grindle wrote: »
    It took FIVE HOURS to come up with that...


    piddly *titter*
    (ooh, I like titter as well!)


    RESPONSE?!?

    Grindle stars in new Aldi ad
    - "I like these 'titters' but I like these 'titties' too!"

    No depicting pics shall be posted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    csi vegas wrote: »
    No depicting pics shall be posted.

    Don't you tell me what to do. I'll flood the board with lascivious selfies later once I'm filled beer and mojitos. Then I'll depict the hell out of EVERYTHING ALMOST EVERYTHING LITTLE TO NOTHING NOTHING!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,041 ✭✭✭colly10


    My roller arrived along with a kick clone and i4 charger, hopefully it puts an end to the reliability issues :D

    0be35950-d914-42d5-996c-ba04941517ff_zps72f2f802.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,568 ✭✭✭Ionised


    colly10 wrote: »
    My roller arrived along with a kick clone and i4 charger, hopefully it puts an end to the reliability issues :D

    I have a Dingo...beautifully made. I didn't even realise mine had a bottom cap for a week as I can't see the join!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,041 ✭✭✭colly10


    Ionised wrote: »
    I have a Dingo...beautifully made. I didn't even realise mine had a bottom cap for a week as I can't see the join!

    Would have went for the Dingo myself if they were in stock, prefer the tube to the telescopic. The quality of the work is outstanding, it's pricy but what I love about it is that every individual part can be replaced, I got sick of messing with my VV mods trying to get them fixed.
    I'm willing to spend a bit more now rather than thinking I'm saving only to throw a part away 3 months down the line


  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 3,827 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeloe


    Mech mods FTW! :-)

    As long as you've got good quality batts you're all good! Not much to go wrong!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 758 ✭✭✭platinums


    are the Efest 16350 800Mah safe to use in Mech mods? I really should understand the risks more, anyone have an informative linky? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,568 ✭✭✭Ionised


    platinums wrote: »
    are the Efest 16350 800Mah safe to use in Mech mods? I really should understand the risks more, anyone have an informative linky? Thanks

    Do you mean 18350 ?
    If so they appear to be fine for mechs based on the number of people that use them..including myself.
    Use them in a GP Paps and Dingo...both with and without a kick.

    More info HERE


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 328 ✭✭Stefan_Cork


    I agree i use them daily and the 18500 as my favorite. Best balance between size and durability.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭was.deevey


    are the Efest 16350 800Mah safe to use in Mech mods? I really should understand the risks more, anyone have an informative linky? Thanks

    They are about as safe as batteries get (every battery has risks). The Efests are safe chemistry batteries as opposed to protected batteries, but even on protected batteries the protection circuits can easily fail when faced with heat.

    I use both efest 18350's and 18650's and they both work fine (although I find the 18350 quite underwhelming beyond about 20 drags).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,121 ✭✭✭ghogie91


    Today I ordered a Kanger Pro Tank and an AGA-T2 rebuildable and some wiremesh for wicking :) looking forward to rebuilding it and all that good stuff


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 758 ✭✭✭platinums


    was.deevey wrote: »
    They are about as safe as batteries get (every battery has risks). The Efests are safe chemistry batteries as opposed to protected batteries, but even on protected batteries the protection circuits can easily fail when faced with heat.

    I use both efest 18350's and 18650's and they both work fine (although I find the 18350 quite underwhelming beyond about 20 drags).

    yeah i usually have to put it back on charge half full when the voltage starts dropping. a kick may be in order.. that should keep the same voltage longer till the battery is fully used?

    As for safety i meant more for wattage, i was vaping .5/.6 Ohm @ 3.9V = 30 watts, the spring got warm so i assumed it was going ok. no exploding batteries yet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    platinums wrote: »
    yeah i usually have to put it back on charge half full when the voltage starts dropping. a kick may be in order.. that should keep the same voltage longer till the battery is fully used?

    As for safety i meant more for wattage, i was vaping .5/.6 Ohm @ 3.9V = 30 watts, the spring got warm so i assumed it was going ok. no exploding batteries yet.

    With the battery fresh at 4.2v you're taking a risk with a .5/.6ohm setup. They're rated for a max of 6.4A and when fresh you're drawing 8.4A with a .5ohm coil, so watch out for yourself because you're really stressing an 18350 with that.

    The original Kick won't allow you to get near that wattage either, so it's a trade-off. Consistent performance @ 10w and then it shuts off at a relatively high voltage. The Sigelei clone (the Stomp) does 10w as well but the low voltage cut-off is more reasonable/lower so you get extra life out of it that way.
    Some people complain about that but they tend to be the guys who change batteries once they get to 3.7v, which is overkill considering IMRs are okay with being discharged to 2.5v before needing a charge.

    Since there's a new Kick coming out you might find some old ones on sale soon if you'd prefer to buy the original, or get the new one which can go to 15w but still has a fairly high low-voltage cut-off and a reassuringly high price.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    So basically you can't use a kick with a dual coil set up? That sucks, there goes my plan to get more than a couple of hours out of a battery.

    How are you getting on with the chorge and chimbus Grindle? Made a bit of a mess of my chimbus by drilling a hole that was too big in the side but the chorge is good enough. I still think both work better in single coil mode but I keep trying to put 2 coils in there anyway. Maybe I'll just try drilling one more hole...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Yup, Kick limit is retarded but as someone pointed out, it probably helps them sell DNA20s.
    I've found I prefer using the mech mod with 18650s anyway, I just have to switch batteries halfway through the day. The 18350 w/Stomp Is only
    1cm smaller than the 18650 with no Stomp and the lack of a dual-coil hurts more than the voltage droop.
    Chimbus/Chorge: They never ever came. 20-something quid down the drain. Wish he'd've kept the spares for something like this rather than throwing them onto the classes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 913 ✭✭✭heliguyheliguy


    I think there is a new kick coming with a higher amp limit. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Yeah, but still just 15w and the low-voltage protection is still ~3.5v. Not sure why they made it that high, makes an 18350 last about 3 hours.
    You'd use approx. 1,000,000,000,000 batteries a day.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,213 ✭✭✭was.deevey


    considering IMRs are okay with being discharged to 2.5v before needing a charge.

    The Efest's stay pretty constant @ 3.7v after the initial 4.2v drop for ages and then almost immediatly drop to about 3.2 and become un-vapeable. I have not been able to discharge to anywhere near 2.5 EVER and thats with a very LR coil.

    I'm using about a .8 ohm and thats really as far as I'd want to push it wattage wise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    was.deevey wrote: »
    I have not been able to discharge to anywhere near 2.5 EVER and thats with a very LR coil.

    I'm using about a .8 ohm and that's really as far as I'd want to push it wattage wise.
    Oh yeah, the same, it'd be unvapable with a dual-coil if it got to 2.5v (probably 2.2v under load, 6w, great...), I was just noting about the Kick and the mech fans' over-cautiousness or battery-preening - some guys are all "You should really switch batts at 3.7v-3.5v!!!" because the batteries hold their capacity better when kept at 60-80% charge (which is true). But they talk like it's a no-no to ever go below nominal voltage. Having to change batteries every few hours... bleh. The lack of battery changes in a day would help me past batteries dying a couple of months sooner.
    A booster like the Kick would be fine working with a battery that's down to 3v (the Stomp proves this, drags it down to 3.0v and cuts off...if only it went to 20w. Wouldn't even have to stress the battery with a 1.5ohm dual-coil - that's ~4A taking the boosting into consideration!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,121 ✭✭✭ghogie91


    Today I received my AGA-T2 and Kanger Protank

    Today I ordered 320mls of PG/VG/ VG Nic Concentrate and some 10ml PG based flavouring with blunt syringes for filling and mixing, 3 x 10ml juice bottles, 3 x 30ml juice bottles, mixing non needled syringes, 2 dripping atomizers (can't remember models right now) some titanium and stainless steel drip tips

    Really liking the look and reviews on the Pipe Sauce liquids so might pick up one of each to give a try!

    Currently trying out LiQueen Cuban Tobacco flavour juice but I'm not liking it very much

    Also have to report a slight fault of the Kanger T3, had it in the car while working, came out at lunch and the very gloppy dark vanilla juice I had in it had obviously heated up in the car in indirect sunlight and became very watery, this in turn made the liquid bubble up into my mouth

    Also my ego battery seems to struggle with the T3 on it resulting in poor to non existent capes every 20/25 pulls, I then have to screw it off and screw it back on again to get it working again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭csi vegas


    ^^^
    That's a wonderful batch to emass Ghogie!

    As for the liquid yes it can break down a little if exposed to high temps and as a result you say it bubbled up in to your mouth - partly due to it being thinned out in the heat but mainly because you most likely got a few drops into the centre tube of the T3 while filling and re-filling.
    This happens when we get too excited :D about a new experience (vaping).

    Nothing, no device or piece of kit is perfect, they all have their little quirks which is why there's constant chatter online about this n that and how to make it better, new hardwares being produced etc.

    The T3 on the eGo problem is prolly due to the resistance of the T3 - it just might be too low a resistance - this thought just occurred to me and so I had a little Google and found the following for your reference.

    Taken from http://www.constantvapor.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KANGER%2DT3%2D2%2E5ATOMIZER

    What ohm do I need? - An ohm is a measure of electrical resistance.
    Lower ohm (1.8-2.0) = less electrical resistance = hotter atomizer = greater amounts of warmer vapor;
    likewise higher ohm 2.4-2.6 = greater resistance = cooler atomizer = cooler vapor.
    3.0-3.2 ohm atomizers work best with a variable voltage ego or mod.

    This one says that they are no longer stocking the lower res heads
    http://www.discountvapers.com/kanger-t3-coil-heads/

    "There is only one resistance right now, Kanger has specifically told me all the lower resistance heads do not perform properly. once they get it worked out I will carry them, as of 11/16/2012 they do not sell them unless specifically requested and even then it is discouraged. so I suggest you do not buy them until I post them here. I will only post them when Kanger tells me the issues are worked out. I will not sell a product that the manufacturer says is faulty no matter what"


    Rebuilding your own is really the way to go after a while, simple too but eVods are much, much easier to re-do and they also look so much nicer.


    The LiQueen Cuban Tobacco juice you can mix with another flavour - the vanilla would be a nice combo.

    My good deed is now done for the day. Back to being nasty work :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭rickyjb


    grindle wrote: »
    Oh yeah, the same, it'd be unvapable with a dual-coil if it got to 2.5v (probably 2.2v under load, 6w, great...), I was just noting about the Kick and the mech fans' over-cautiousness or battery-preening - some guys are all "You should really switch batts at 3.7v-3.5v!!!" because the batteries hold their capacity better when kept at 60-80% charge (which is true). But they talk like it's a no-no to ever go below nominal voltage. Having to change batteries every few hours... bleh. The lack of battery changes in a day would help me past batteries dying a couple of months sooner.
    A booster like the Kick would be fine working with a battery that's down to 3v (the Stomp proves this, drags it down to 3.0v and cuts off...if only it went to 20w. Wouldn't even have to stress the battery with a 1.5ohm dual-coil - that's ~4A taking the boosting into consideration!)

    Is there anything out there that will consistently provide 15-20W? I'm not sure if it's the chimbus, the voltage drop on my sig19b, crappy batteries or what but even with 2x1.2 ohm coils I don't seem to be getting enough power.

    What are you all using for your dual coils?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    rickyjb wrote: »
    Is there anything out there that will consistently provide 15-20W? I'm not sure if it's the chimbus, the voltage drop on my sig19b, crappy batteries or what but even with 2x1.2 ohm coils I don't seem to be getting enough power.

    What are you all using for your dual coils?
    A Vamo with stacked 18350s.
    Throathit's twin battery mods (PM him on UKV).
    DNA20 mods. There're a couple of modmakers on FB, cost €120 delivered I think, but they're pretty boxy.
    One of them goes by the name 'Shanmods' I think

    What kind of contacts has the Sigelei got? If they're chromed brass, sand the chrome off and rejoice at the extra .2-.3 you'll probably gain.

    Edit: If you're trying to use an 18350 to power a .6ohm that could be the source of woes too. The internal resistance of the battery itself relative to the current being drawn would cause the battery to drop voltage quicker.


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