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The "Today I did something to my car" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    rocky wrote: »
    No it didn't come from the factory like that. Show me where the options list for the E90 had '///M badges'

    I was of the same opinion as you, until I found out they are aftermarket badges only



    Leave them, it's not an add-on like the boot badge.

    So what?

    It has nothing to do with you.
    It is your preference not to have it there.

    It is his choice to have it their as he is the owner.


    Lovely car bud.
    Just lose the plates :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭rocky


    It was only a suggestion - like yours of changing the plates - so what :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    rocky wrote: »
    It was only a suggestion - like yours of changing the plates - so what :p

    I was suggesting taking off illegal plates.
    Your suggestion was because of?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    tossy wrote: »
    And the 'felt plates :D

    Mmmmmm felt plates.... Must invest in a set.... :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,597 ✭✭✭tossy


    dgt wrote: »
    Mmmmmm felt plates.... Must invest in a set.... :pac:

    Having seen you in action yesterday and seen your 'fred in a shed" remapping i can deem you the king of 'felt :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,280 ✭✭✭✭Eric Cartman


    Various things ive done over the last week to the e38

    Removing the ABS module to be sent to BBA
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    The oil filter mounts definitely need a change
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    Tried to change the pcv valve but the bolts were stripped so off with the intake manifold that had obviously been put back badly before as there were leaves and dirt stuck in the gaskets.
    5PqBu7.jpg
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    the valley pan gasket is leaking so ill need to do that too, also clean off all the oil
    6J9Hjt.jpg

    the lower OSV must be clogged if all this gunk is sitting up here
    5NZ7xE.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Thanks all for your opinions anyway!. Maybe the plates cud do with changing alright, was thinking bout German style plates with BMW Motorsport surrounds (as it would match the m badge!:D) don't have many more pics but here's 2.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    you sure keep it clean anyway!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,280 ✭✭✭✭Eric Cartman


    That definitely needs german plates, the font on those current ones looks terrible on the bm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Yeah and they probably won't drag as much attention from the Feds as the current ones!.
    Yeah too bad the carbon black doesn't stay that clean for very long!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    ...Yesterday I changed the oil on my cousins DC2 integra type R...easy car to work on.

    Today I took some preventative measures on my mr 2: took out the boot liner to check for rust, etc after reading (and seeing) the rear arches can become chocolate on some of the UK cars

    - The initial boot looks good.

    img1836large.jpg

    ....I topped up the factory proofing witj some BiltHamber Dynax S50 Cavity wax

    img1857largeq.jpg


    Check the arches - there is some rust there alright as suspected but thankfully it's only surface:

    img1840large.jpg

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    I tried to sand the rush but its very tight so I had a B&Q dremmel with an extension chuck so managed to grind most it off and then used the bilthamber sulfex degreaser.


    img1858large.jpg

    While the carpet was out it could do with a good clean with FAB interior cleaner (from cleancar.ie) - there was stains and rust spots here and there

    BEFORE:


    img1845large.jpg


    AFTER:

    img1856large.jpg

    ....pcitures dont do this justice but, it's night and day the carpet is now spotless and colour is back & it's like new , I'm waiting for the Kurust to harden in the arches before I dynax that as well, tomorrow at this stage!


    ......................prevention is better than cure ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    I love doing upgrades to my car, I particularly like installing options that were available from the factory that my could have been fitted with if the original purchaser wasn't so tiht fisted with is check book.

    So another OEM based upgrade, this time it was the retrofit of the option S609A (Professional Satellite Navigation). The car had the basic iDrive system from the factory called M-ASK with the 6.5’ screen & Bluetooth with basic voice control (phone only).
    The is an EBA retrofit Guide floating about (I have EBA system myself too). Here’s a link to a copy of the S609A retrofit.

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    This installation is equally applicable to the e60 Series as it is to the 6 Series. Here is a list of the hardware used in this particular installation:

    1. CCC unit

    The CCC unit is the ”brains” of the system with the CD & DVD drives built in

    2. 8.8 Screen (CID)
    This screen is the widescreen; just to note you cannot use this screen with the M-ASK, I tried just out of curiosity, see below.

    Old & new screen:
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    New Screen with MASK:
    33AC3C9A-6EAE-4F11-A38F-AA046CE02B97-4662-000002BBF1C0AF49_zpse75ad453.jpg

    3. High iDrive Controller (with “haptic” feedback)
    You can get away with the existing “low controller” but you will lose the haptic feedback functionality & you’ll also have to have non-standard coding in the CCC to allow use of the “low” controller. I decided not to make this sacrifice.

    null_zps0d67f3ae.jpg

    4. Fan Cable Harness

    The “fan cable harness” is a small lead that connects the main harness going in to the back of the CCC to the fan on the back of the CCC. I’m not sure why they couldn’t have the wiring for the fan inside the CCC but who am I to question it!

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    5.Fakra GPS antenna

    GPSAntenna_zpsbf0d3151.jpg

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    The OEM antenna is about €130 excluding the cabling which is insane! I picked up a Fakra made (OEM supplier) GPS antenna with a 3m cable & the right connector for €8 delivered, no brainer really.

    6. Menu/Voice Control iDrive button
    As for the Menu/Voice Control button, you do not need to swap this out but I wanted to keep the system as OEM as I could, it helped that I got the button free with the iDrive controller.
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    7. Replacement dash centre trim
    This is the only piece that I ended up having to buy new. The original trim only has a slot for the CD drive, not for the DVD drive. It also has a little shelf built in which has to make way for the base of the CCC. There are many different colours available for this trim, Dark Birch, Light Birch, Madera, Brush Aluminium, Piano Black, Carbon to name a few. This just made it difficult to find the right one, the was one in UK but they wanted more for the second hand unit than it cost new! Another one was available in Sweden but that was close to the new price too. Having thought about it further this piece of trim has the most prominent place in the car so it was vital for me that this would be cosmetically perfect.

    null_zps638102a4.jpg



    8. 2013 Premium Sat Nav map discs
    Thanks to member jpwayne2004 for providing the DVDs with 2013 Western, Central & Eastern Europe maps.

    The first job was to remove the centre console. It involves removing the gear knob (pull straight up), the gaitor (unplug 2 connectors), then remove the 4 x Torx srews to remove the wood effect trim. The centre console has 5 Torx bolts holding it in place one up front & four within the rear cup holder compartment.

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    Then I removed the back seat, this was to facilitate the installation of the GPS antenna.

    null_zps8320aaeb.jpg

    I mounted the GPS antenna in the OEM location for the e63 6 Series which is up underneath the rear parcel shelf. The steep rake of the rear windscreen allows this location to work, on the e60 5 Series the “Shark Fin” antenna was deemed necessary.
    Interesting aside: The GPS satellites are not always directly above you as you drive, they can be out in front; to the side; or behind you. Remember the curvature of the earth? Also in order to determine your location the GPS system has to “see” at least 3 GPS satellites in order to report your position.

    With the antenna mounted & the cable fed through to the dash centre I turned to the removal of the old iDrive controller, it is held in place with 4 Torx bolts. There are two Cables plugged in to the Controller/Menu switch.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    In the retrofit guide it called for the insertion of an additional wire for the voice control button, my car already had this.

    Yellow/White wire is for voice control:
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    These were the two hardest jobs. It was plain sailing after this.

    Next up was the installation of the 8.8 Widescreen Central Information Display (CID). I removed the central air vents & central dash trim to create space. The airducts have one Torx screw underneath the Hazard switch, the switch itself simply pops out with a plastic panel removal tool. The central dash trim is held in by 2 Philips screws at the top & 4 spring clips. The old connectors for the CID are identical for old/new screens & the screen is held in place with two Torx screws into the top of the dash. Simples.

    null_zps966c08de.jpg

    null_zps7b2d2eb6.jpg

    Cables on CID:
    3129D567-DF4B-4477-A197-7C6A254956FC-4662-000002BBE9F98DA7_zps5b85de4f.jpg

    A3F5EB61-5051-4A90-907A-85E4571337C2-4662-000002BBE6C49DCF_zps99bb6677.jpg

    The M-ASK unit is held in place with 2 Philips screws & it slides right out. The CCC is held in with 4 Philips screws, so you’ll need to get the right screws & fasteners for the additional mounts.

    null_zps61cb00b1.jpg

    The speaker/power/optical connector is identical, with the exception to the fan cable harness. You need to insert the three wires from the fan in to one of the connectors, see the retrofit guide for which wire goes where.

    3B0BFD12-8B28-4B3F-AF46-AB7C7A4EA41C-4662-000002BBE2832FDD_zpscd79bb8e.jpg

    The radio antenna connector is black & the GPS antenna connector is blue

    MASK sitting on top of the CCC for comparison:
    null_zps27a39350.jpg
    The connector on the cable that goes to the CID needs to be modified, there is a locator tab on the connector meaning it can only be plugged in one way (Poka Yoke) however it is incorrect for CCC so this tab needs to be trimmed off.

    With all that connected up & fitted it simply comes time to reassemble everything

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    With everything installed it was time to fire it up! It initially loaded in Polish (I think).

    null_zps7b2d2eb6.jpg



    null_zps0f578f66.jpg

    So I set about coding the unit to match my car & also telling the car that it now had S609A (Professional Satellite Navigation). First up was to add $609& $620 to the Vehicle Order (VO), this is done with NCS Expert in “Expertmode”. By doing this you are essentially changing the DNA of the car.
    The next job to be done was to code the CCC to match my car. This involves coding 5 units with the default build of the car (again using NCS Expert):
    - CAPPL
    - CAUDA
    - CGATE
    - CHOST
    - CTUNE


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    The idea of this is to ensure the options fitted to the car are known to the CCC, for example the climate control type, Bluetooth system, etc. The screen & CCC came from an e60 535d & the controller came from an M6 but after coding they are now e63 630i components. Here’s an example of the e60 VIN number showing up in the Bluetooth menu prior to coding (Other VIN: CU 783333):

    null_zpsb945f692.jpg

    Then I disconnected the battery to let everything “settle”.


    You may have noticed that I added $620 to the VO. S620A is called “Extended Voice Control”, this allows you to control everything in the car including heating, nav, Bluetooth, etc. Originally the voice control system in my car worked just with the Bluetooth phone (option S644A), however when you install the Prof Sat Nav (S609A) you lose your basic voice control. Initially I thought this as some coding error. Unfortunately BMW designed the system to do this. After a bit of searching I discovered the only way to re-enable voice control is by the use of an enablement code called an FSC code which can only be supplied by BMW. The only way to load the FSC code is using Progman or ISTA. I have not sorted out the Voice Control yet, but it is on my “to do” list.

    Here are some shots of the system in action. I also benefited from this install as the new CCC had the updated software version meaning it had the silver (as opposed to brown) background. This allowed me to add the following options in to the iDrive menu:
    - Cornering lights
    - Welcome Lights
    - Auto-light sensitivity
    (these tied in nicely with my recent LM2 module retrofit)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


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    I got a little help from the guys at Germaniks, which was much appreciated. They have done similar installs in the past so it was good to talk to someone who has done it before. If you were looking to get it done without going to all the complication I did, give them a call.

    Will I use the Navigation? Ha ha, probably not that often but the maps look OK. I do like the wide screen though, I also like the “haptic” feedback controller.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    ^ love retrofits....fair play ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 890 ✭✭✭dh0011


    do you need to change fuses or anything like that or is it just get the parts and stick them in?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 234 ✭✭dryadssaddle


    Today i chopped up a Mk3 Golf splitter and fitted it to my Mk2 Polo.

    Also in the last few months i have lowered it 80/60, got some Mk2 Golf GTI steels, refurbed them and fitted some 155/55/r14 nangkang tyres with a slight stretch, got a bonnet bra, classic pressed plates and painted the bumpers and spolier with some satin black paint. got some yellow lens tint too :) great little car.

    2cxx1u8.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    dh0011 wrote: »
    do you need to change fuses or anything like that or is it just get the parts and stick them in?

    Most of the wiring is already in place. There's a lot of ripping to install the 8 different parts that I talked about above. The other important job is the coding. These BMWs (& other modern cars) are literaly more related to a PC than a car from the past! There are about 30 control modules (maybe more in my car) these are all networked on various types of inter-communication systems (fibre/K-bus, D-bus, etc.). So the coding is most important to ensure each item is integrated together. The way these cars are wired differently to cars of the past. I've had cars from the 70's, 80's 90's & noughties. If you were to use the same type of individual wire/fuse set up that was used in carsof the past you woudl have one hell on an amount of copper wiring in the car! :eek: So the new solution is to use intelligent networking rather than physical switching.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,813 ✭✭✭rizzee


    Smoked back lights this morning


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    what happens to a bonnet bra in the rain or when you wash it? does it just collect up all the water in behind it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 890 ✭✭✭dh0011


    thanks rebel - good to know


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,234 ✭✭✭Ardennes1944


    Installed the Connects2 Aux in kit for the 3er, easiest one ever thank you BMW! Took 7minutes to remove radio, connect it up, remove glovebox, fish wire and connects2 box into glovebox and put everything back. Great sound off it, much better than the CD changer hack I had just done in the boot a few weeks ago


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,704 ✭✭✭Cheensbo


    Shiny shiny :)

    What i did:

    Wash with auto glym bodywork conditioning shampoo,
    Super resin polish, wasnt happy first time, so did it x2
    Meguiars tech carnauba wax
    Demon shine
    Rain-x - lights & glass
    Tyre gel
    Carplan trim wax on the black stuff biggrin.png

    Not bad for a 94 :)

    photopaint.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 113 ✭✭peejay01


    Replaced a part of the air intake in my gf's Audi A3 that had been bodged together with duct tape by the previous owner/mechanic.

    IMAG0328.jpg

    It looks like the original tubing had rotted away and then was replaced by a short length of rubber hose and taped up.

    I also took the opportunity to change the spark plugs, which on the 1.6 L engine is a major pain as you have to remove the lower intake manifold. The Elsawin instructions say you need to remove the timing belt, alternator and secondary air pump to do this but there was no way I was touching the timing belt! A lot of swearing and some scraped knuckles but eventually got the secondary pump and the manifold off.

    IMAG0329.jpg

    One problem in the end though: I couldn't find where one of the small rubber hoses was supposed to go.

    IMAG0330.jpg

    It is the hose in the pic that is white half way up and is draped across the lower manifold.

    Anyone know where this connects to??

    Have looked at the digrams on ElsaWin but couldn't locate the connection point. It is a 2002 Audi A3 1.6 L comfort, BFQ engine code.

    Car is running a little bit rough so think this may be the problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,282 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    At last set up an appointment for NCT.

    Test is due on 18 of May, but Castlerea centre is fully booked until a middle of June.

    So, 21 Jun booked.

    Now must change 2 tyres (have them already), antiroll bar bushings and links. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,813 ✭✭✭rizzee


    Quick ten min wash and shammy and replacement of P logo to front sun strip


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 890 ✭✭✭dh0011


    joujoujou wrote: »
    At last set up an appointment for NCT.

    Test is due on 18 of May, but Castlerea centre is fully booked until a middle of June.

    So, 21 Jun booked.

    Now must change 2 tyres (have them already), antiroll bar bushings and links. :D

    if you ring the nct on the phone they can put you in for a cancelation


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,620 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Today I broke down on the motorway and the temperature gauge all the way into the red.
    Stopped, looked, not a drop of water in the car.
    Got out, had a look around the hard shoulder and found a few discarded water bottles that people had thrown out of the window.
    After that, hopped over the fence and had a look around the fields for a water trough and did indeed find one a few hundred meters up the road from my stricken vehicle. Filled up a 2 liter milk bottle plus a 500 ml coke bottle. This took two trips, ergo nearly 5 liters went into my CMax.
    Drove my usual commute into work (Crusheen to Limerick) with absolutely no problems and not a drop of water lost.
    But back at home and it's all gone again.
    And no time to go looking for a leak today or tomorrow, so will have to drive around with a spare 5 liters of water for a while...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 333 ✭✭mondymike


    Today I broke down on the motorway and the temperature gauge all the way into the red.
    Stopped, looked, not a drop of water in the car.
    Got out, had a look around the hard shoulder and found a few discarded water bottles that people had thrown out of the window.
    After that, hopped over the fence and had a look around the fields for a water trough and did indeed find one a few hundred meters up the road from my stricken vehicle. Filled up a 2 liter milk bottle plus a 500 ml coke bottle. This took two trips, ergo nearly 5 liters went into my CMax.
    Drove my usual commute into work (Crusheen to Limerick) with absolutely no problems and not a drop of water lost.
    But back at home and it's all gone again.
    And no time to go looking for a leak today or tomorrow, so will have to drive around with a spare 5 liters of water for a while...

    thermostat?


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