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immersion overheating water

  • 07-06-2012 05:18PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40


    Hi my immersion seems to be overheating the water. would have it on sink for a half hour and the water is scalding. It only seems to be drawing 3amps aswell only using a fluke open jaw meter. new thermostat maybe?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    Hi my immersion seems to be overheating the water. would have it on sink for a half hour and the water is scalding. It only seems to be drawing 3amps aswell only using a fluke open jaw meter. new thermostat maybe?

    doubt if its only drawing 3amps to be honest
    rough guide 1kw=5amps

    possibly wired wrong


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    using a fluke open jaw meter

    you need to be on the individual core to test correctly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    seems to be wired correctly bath and sink are switching on fine and get 230 across them. just fitted a timeclock for the sink only.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    just fitted a timeclock for the sink only.

    should have fitted the clock before the switch
    this would give you the option to choose sink/bath


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    i get a reading of 24ohms on the sink and 16ohms on the bath. i took a feed+n + sw to the timeclock and joined the black cable in the immersion switch. they seem to be switchin over fine cant understand why its geting so hot.i thought that would be fine maybe not? just bought a fluke t5-600 thought i would of being able to measure current through the leads. but only seems to measure current through the jaw.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    i get a reading of 24ohms on the sink and 16ohms on the bath. i took a feed+n + sw to the timeclock and joined the black cable in the immersion switch. they seem to be switchin over fine cant understand why its geting so hot.i thought that would be fine maybe not? just bought a fluke t5-600 thought i would of being able to measure current through the leads. but only seems to measure current through the jaw.

    seems complicated(cant understand what you done tbh)
    live neutral earth into timeclock
    live neutral earth from clock to switch
    cable from switch to immersion(blue/neutral black/sink brown/bath)newer immersions


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    if you need to test the current drawn(amps)
    put the jaws of your meter around the neutral wire and test for sink and then bath
    do not do this if you are not competent as the power needs to be on to test this


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    i have a l+n+e from a 13a spur to the immersion switch. took a l+n+sw to timeclock the sw at the timeclock is used to switch the sink wire which is the black cable i joined it in the immersion switch in a connector.And the brown cable for the bath is still switched at the immersion switch. hope it is clearer m8. maybe there is no problem but seems very hot to me!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    i have a l+n+e from a 13a spur to the immersion switch. took a l+n+sw to timeclock the sw at the timeclock is used to switch the sink wire which is the black cable i joined it in the immersion switch in a connector.And the brown cable for the bath is still switched at the immersion switch. hope it is clearer m8. maybe there is no problem but seems very hot to me!


    no its not clear at all

    my advise now is to get someone competent to have a look at this for you

    you shouldnt have a 13amp spur for starters
    think you need professional help here


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    13a spur should be ok on a ring circuit??


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    13a spur should be ok on a ring circuit??

    immersion should be on its own circuit(rcd protected)
    an immersion will draw 13amps on bath alone


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,423 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    what sort of thermostat is fitted? what is its setting? can you see it turning on / off on your clamp meter?

    The time switch should be fitted before the bath/sink switch as others have said...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    its an old element maybe 10 years old no thermostat is on the element. i have tested it and is switching on and of on the element no problem getting 230 when timeclock is on and 230 when immersion sw is on. and nothing when they are of. i am just finished my apprenticship but immersions are fairly new to me. the whole tank seems to be scalding when the timeclock is on for 30mins and checked for power when its on and only getting power on the black cable. its a 3kw element top entry cylinder


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    what is the problem with taking the supply for the timeclock of the immersion sw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,423 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    its an old element maybe 10 years old no thermostat is on the element. i have tested it and is switching on and of on the element no problem getting 230 when timeclock is on and 230 when immersion sw is on. and nothing when they are of. i am just finished my apprenticship but immersions are fairly new to me. the whole tank seems to be scalding when the timeclock is on for 30mins and checked for power when its on and only getting power on the black cable.

    There has to be a thermostat, i'm wondering has someone removed it cause its faulty. The thermostat is usually in a pipe that goes down inside the cylinder and allows you to set the temperature.

    If there's no thermostat the water can get very warm. You need a thermostat otherwise you'll end up boiling over and sending water up the expansion pipe into the coldwater tank in the attic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    its an old element maybe 10 years old no thermostat is on the element. i have tested it and is switching on and of on the element no problem getting 230 when timeclock is on and 230 when immersion sw is on. and nothing when they are of. i am just finished my apprenticship but immersions are fairly new to me. the whole tank seems to be scalding when the timeclock is on for 30mins and checked for power when its on and only getting power on the black cable. its a 3kw element top entry cylinder

    if its an old immersion then possibly
    blue/sink
    black/bath
    brown/neutral
    this was the old color scheme(all changed since)
    check your wiring again

    all immersions have a thermostat somewhere


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    There has to be a thermostat, i'm wondering has someone removed it cause its faulty. The thermostat is usually in a pipe that goes down inside the cylinder and allows you to set the temperature.

    If there's no thermostat the water can get very warm. You need a thermostat otherwise you'll end up boiling over and sending water up the expansion pipe into the coldwater tank in the attic.

    agree


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,009 ✭✭✭meercat


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    what is the problem with taking the supply for the timeclock of the immersion sw

    best practice to place the clock first

    otherwise there may be a live wire at the immersion even if clock is turned off


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 118 ✭✭Yzf R6


    Definitely thermostat,either faulty or set too high.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    i cant see a thermostat on the element ha it should be visible right?? the connections are correct as i tested for R and got 24ohms across sink (black cable) and 16 across bath(brown cable). seems quiet high for a 3kw element 40ohms?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    guessing ill replace the element it could be 20 years old anyway but never noticed a problem with it b4


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭Diggerdunne


    maybe put up a pic of the immersion and see if we can see the thermostat....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,560 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    i cant see a thermostat on the element ha it should be visible right?? the connections are correct as i tested for R and got 24ohms across sink (black cable) and 16 across bath(brown cable). seems quiet high for a 3kw element 40ohms?

    The readings are not too far off. But there should be a thermostat on the neutral (blue) cable before it joins the common pillar of the elements. Is there a small approx 10mm hole (pocket) in the centre of the unit? This is where the thermostat should be located.
    The immersion should be, as said in an earlier post, be wired directly to the board. Incorrectly wired immersions can cause fires, best to get a qualified person to sort it out for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭Diggerdunne


    maybe there is a wrap around stat on the cylinder????


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    IM AFRAID NOT M8 STRANGE ONE ??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 118 ✭✭Yzf R6


    Take off all lagging and look for a stat,if you can't find one your probably better off buying a new immersion heater for your own peace of mind and not to mention your electricity bill.Have you had the heater long?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,560 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Yzf R6 wrote: »
    Take off all lagging and look for a stat,if you can't find one your probably better off buying a new immersion heater for your own peace of mind and not to mention your electricity bill.Have you had the heater long?

    +1

    That unit looks very odd (and old), I can easy say I have changed hundreds of immersions over the years and not seen one like that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40 alanmc87


    IV LEAVED HERE FOR 25 YEARS (ALL MY LIFE) IT HADNT BEIN USED MUCH ONLY FOR THE BATH,USED THE GAS TO HEAT IT USUALLY AND NEVER GOT NEAR AS HOT (WATER). IT COULD BE THERE LONGER MY DAD IS HERE 35 YEARS ILL FIND OUT 2MORO. ILL GET A NEW ELEMENT. WOULDNT NEED TO DRAIN THAT TANK ATTAL WOULD I ?? I TINK ITS HERE 20 YEARS NOT SURE. IT WAS ON A RADIAL. BUT SOMEONE TAPPED OF IT FOR THE ATTIC CIRCUIT. SO NEW SUPPLY FOR THE ATTIC????


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,560 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    alanmc87 wrote: »
    IV LEAVED HERE FOR 25 YEARS (ALL MY LIFE) IT HADNT BEIN USED MUCH ONLY FOR THE BATH,USED THE GAS TO HEAT IT USUALLY AND NEVER GOT NEAR AS HOT (WATER). IT COULD BE THERE LONGER MY DAD IS HERE 35 YEARS ILL FIND OUT 2MORO. ILL GET A NEW ELEMENT. WOULDNT NEED TO DRAIN THAT TANK ATTAL WOULD I ??

    A certain amount of draining down will be required. Its getting it out without damage to the cylinder I'd be worried about.
    Remember to measure the height of the cylinder as you will need it to size the immersion element correctly.


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