STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

darkhorse · 21-05-2012 10:25PM

Planet X wrote: »

Just ordered another 10 bags of Smokeless.
Summer my ass.

I hear ya. I bought 10 bags of smokeless the day before yesterday. This is mad, buying coal near the end of may.
John:mad:

Stove Fan · 22-05-2012 08:11PM

mishkalucy wrote: »

Thanks anyway:)

Anybody else have any ideas???
Is it the stove or the plumbing?

It wouldn't hurt to take some photos of the plumbing:)

Stove Fan:)

Smidge · 22-05-2012 10:06PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

It wouldn't hurt to take some photos of the plumbing:)

Stove Fan:)

The other half was in the local diy today and was chatting to the guy there. He has a stove too. He reckoned the thermostat was set to low, its at 30 at the minute as the plumber set it to. The chap in the diy reckoned there wasn't a hope of getting hot enough water around the pipes at such a low setting.

Stove Fan · 23-05-2012 08:38PM

mishkalucy wrote: »

The other half was in the local diy today and was chatting to the guy there. He has a stove too. He reckoned the thermostat was set to low, its at 30 at the minute as the plumber set it to. The chap in the diy reckoned there wasn't a hope of getting hot enough water around the pipes at such a low setting.

This pipe thermostat won't actually increase the heat output of the stove it just controls the on/off operation of the central heating pump. It is the fuel fed into it that gives the heat output. The electronics just control the pump.

At a set temperature on the pipe thermostat dial the pump would turn on at this set temp and when the water has circulated and mixed with the cooler water in the system would switch off the pump until the water in the system reheated to the pipe stat setting and the sequence would repeat the process until the water in the system is above the pipe stat setting. A normal setting is anything from 40-55 on a low limit pipe stat.

You can try increasing the pipe stat setting but if the stove can't produce the required heat needed then it's not going to make much difference to the actual overall rad temperature, (they will be hotter initially then cool) except take longer to heat the rads as the higher the pipe stat setting the more priority is given to the hot water cylinder. Ie the heat produced is being absorbed and used to heat the domestic hot water in the cylinder rather than being pumped to the rads sooner.

Stove Fan:)

anheneti · 23-05-2012 10:24PM

Hi Guys
I just skimmed over the problem and here is my two cents,
Its sounds to me that your oil boiler is taking the heat from the stove and the pump on your stove should be on at all with the oil, so it also sounds like your stove is taking heat from the oil boiler. the next time your stove is lighting check the oil boiler to see if it is warm.
Hopefully this is some bit of help
Anheneti

rpmcs · 24-05-2012 11:32PM

mishkalucy

To my knowledge the pump should be at setting two, three would be for a very large system, so would be pumping water around too fast away from stove, basically not giving stove chance to reach proper temp,
Also around 55 would be stat temp normally, again at 30 its not giving stove chance to heat up to proper operating temp,

And the stove pump should not be coming on with oil boiler if stove is not on, to my knowledge, so i would check if non return valves are fitted between stove and boiler,

i know the stove and would say the same as stove fan, that your stove is pretty good, much the same as mulbery,or others,

but yes its max 15kw to boiler and it would probably be on its limit to heat your system so if its not plumbed right it will struggle badly, so i would make sure of all above even if it means getting second plumber to check it over!!

ste15 · 26-05-2012 11:17PM

Hello, not sure if im posting this in the right place. I have taken out my fireback so I can fit an insert stove, the Boru Fiachra we were looking at. While researching it though I have found out it would be very simple for me to connect up an insert stove with boiler like the Boru Chietan. The bit I cannot work out is how to get access to actually connect up the flow and return to the boiler without pulling the fireplace surround out. Would I be right in presuming that I cannot use a flexible connection to the boiler similar to an oil or gas boiler?

Stove Fan · 26-05-2012 11:32PM

ste15 wrote: »

Hello, not sure if im posting this in the right place. I have taken out my fireback so I can fit an insert stove, the Boru Fiachra we were looking at. While researching it though I have found out it would be very simple for me to connect up an insert stove with boiler like the Boru Chietan. The bit I cannot work out is how to get access to actually connect up the flow and return to the boiler without pulling the fireplace surround out. Would I be right in presuming that I cannot use a flexible connection to the boiler similar to an oil or gas boiler?

Normally you need to knock a hole out in the side of the chimneybreast to connect the pipes and then make good.

You could phone the manufacturers and ask them what the procedure is for access to fitting the pipes. I would definately presume you would need to knock out a hole.

Have a look at the aarrow ecoboiler or the Esse 350 greenswitch. Make sure the room heat isn't overpowering and the boiler isn't undersized:).
It's normal to use rigid copper piping. Make sure you have an open vented system.

Stove Fan:)

ste15 · 26-05-2012 11:45PM

Hi Stove Fan, thanks for the reply. You confirmed my fears for me. Really dont want to go to the hassle of punching through the side of the chimney. I thought if I could drill a wide enough bore hole through and then try and angle the stove in with pipes connected I might get away with it. I doubt it though, far too tight unless its flexible pipes. The only websites I have seen flexible copper pipe on are american ones though so I am guessing they aren't used here.
I will probably just go for the non boiler model.
Just out of curiousity, if punching through the chimney for access would I need some sort of acro or prop to support the chimney above?

Stove Fan · 27-05-2012 08:37PM

ste15 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan, thanks for the reply. You confirmed my fears for me. Really dont want to go to the hassle of punching through the side of the chimney. I thought if I could drill a wide enough bore hole through and then try and angle the stove in with pipes connected I might get away with it. I doubt it though, far too tight unless its flexible pipes. The only websites I have seen flexible copper pipe on are american ones though so I am guessing they aren't used here.
I will probably just go for the non boiler model.
Just out of curiousity, if punching through the chimney for access would I need some sort of acro or prop to support the chimney above?

At the side of the chimneybreast so long as you don't knock out all the side supporting brickwork then you wont need to support. If you are altering the opening height and remove the existing lintel then you will need to use supports.

A boiler stove is a good thing especially if you have no mains gas.

Stove Fan:)

ste15 · 27-05-2012 09:48PM

That sounds easy. Really would like to be getting the full house heated from the fire opposed to just one room. I already have mains gas but I always have the fire lit in the winter so for the same fuel I am currently using I could heat the house and then only use the gas maybe for convenience. Very, very tempted. I will do some more research. Thanks Stove Fan.

guy bono · 28-05-2012 03:49PM

Hi, to cut a long story short, i have a stove installed but the flue is installed incorrectly, which i discovered when i used wet timber and the sap flowed down the outside of the pipe. my OH has given me loads a grief (probably deserved) so not looking for any here! i'm looking to find a reliable installer who could fix my problem. based in laois; any recommendations appreciated. thanks

emg74 · 02-06-2012 06:13PM

emg74 wrote: »

Hi Stove Man, Thank you so much for your advice. Definitely we will be able to pull the stove out onto the hearth more.

We are hoping to go looking properly in the next few weeks. Need to organise someone to take the kids some Saturday so we can look in peace.

I will ring the supplier that does the stratford stoves and see if they have the Stratford Ecoboiler EB12 HE in stock and get an idea of price. We are hoping to get the work done over the summer.

Thanks again for your help and I will keep you updates as to how things are going

Hi Stove Man, Just have a quick question for you - Would there be a huge difference between the EB12 & the SEB20 ??

We finally got looking at stoves earlier - were in 2 suppliers. One was recommending the EB12 stove - He didn't have one in stock but would be able to get one within a couple of days if we decided to order one..

The other was recommending the EB18 & to go for something bigger than we needed in case we ever wanted to put all the rads in the house onto the Stove boiler.

He however had 2 other shop display stoves there of the SEB20 which he said fell somewhere between the EB12 & the EB18 in terms of output. These would work out a lot cheaper to buy - €400 cheaper than the price of the EB12 - Only problem we had was that they had what he was calling a "soft roll top" which we did not like the look of. He is going to check next week to see if he can get a "slab" / flat top for it. I know this is a personal preference and does not affect performance

I would like your opinion on this stove. I know it is an older model than the EB stoves but would it be okay. The price is very attractive if the stove is a good one and would be okay for our needs

Thanks in advance

Stove Fan · 02-06-2012 11:25PM

emg74 wrote: »

Hi Stove Man, Just have a quick question for you - Would there be a huge difference between the EB12 & the SEB20 ??

We finally got looking at stoves earlier - were in 2 suppliers. One was recommending the EB12 stove - He didn't have one in stock but would be able to get one within a couple of days if we decided to order one..

The other was recommending the EB18 & to go for something bigger than we needed in case we ever wanted to put all the rads in the house onto the Stove boiler.

He however had 2 other shop display stoves there of the SEB20 which he said fell somewhere between the EB12 & the EB18 in terms of output. These would work out a lot cheaper to buy - €400 cheaper than the price of the EB12 - Only problem we had was that they had what he was calling a "soft roll top" which we did not like the look of. He is going to check next week to see if he can get a "slab" / flat top for it. I know this is a personal preference and does not affect performance

I would like your opinion on this stove. I know it is an older model than the EB stoves but would it be okay. The price is very attractive if the stove is a good one and would be okay for our needs

Thanks in advance

Hi, certainly don't go for the EB18 as it has a massive 9kw output to the room and even with the doors open would roast the main room out.
It's a good idea in some instances to buy a slightly bigger boiler output to the water incase you add more rads but not to add more room heat than whats needed. Your main rooms requires 2.5kw each of direct room heat.
It is in a dealers interest to sell a bigger stove as more profit;)

The arrow EB12 and SEB20 are very similar in every way both producing 12kw to the water. The SEB20 has a slightly lower room heat output of between 2.7kw-5kw. The EB12 has 12kw to water on coal and produces 6kw to the room.

The SEB20 as you say is an old discontinued model but being discontinued you should get a good deal on it:D

I prefer the fast heat up of the current EB12 but the SEB20 wins on price and slightly less room heat in which with your room size may be a good thing.

A review of the SEB20.

Good luck with your choice.

http://www.whatstove.co.uk/aarrow-stoves/aarrow-ecoboiler-seb20.html

Stove Fan:)

emg74 · 03-06-2012 08:41AM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, certainly don't go for the EB18 as it has a massive 9kw output to the room and even with the doors open would roast the main room out.
It's a good idea in some instances to buy a slightly bigger boiler output to the water incase you add more rads but not to add more room heat than whats needed. Your main rooms requires 2.5kw each of direct room heat.
It is in a dealers interest to sell a bigger stove as more profit;)

The arrow EB12 and SEB20 are very similar in every way both producing 12kw to the water. The SEB20 has a slightly lower room heat output of between 2.7kw-5kw. The EB12 has 12kw to water on coal and produces 6kw to the room.

The SEB20 as you say is an old discontinued model but being discontinued you should get a good deal on it:D

I prefer the fast heat up of the current EB12 but the SEB20 wins on price and slightly less room heat in which with your room size may be a good thing.

A review of the SEB20.

Good luck with your choice.

http://www.whatstove.co.uk/aarrow-stoves/aarrow-ecoboiler-seb20.html

Stove Fan:)

Hi StoveMan, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly and glad to hear that the SEB20 is a good stove - I was afraid that there was going to be a huge efficiency difference between that and the EB12

You mentioned that you prefer the EB12 for the fast heat up - On the days that I work( 3 days a week) , the fire wouldn't be going on till approx 6pm, how long roughly would it take the SEB20 to get the water hot and some heat in the rads in comparison to the EB12 - We use a mix of well seasoned softwood logs, turf & also always have a couple of bags of regular coal in the shed.

I want to make sure that we make the right choice.

Also do you think the supplier will be able to get a flat top rather than the roll top for the display stove that he has in stock... really don't like the top that is on the stove in the showroom. Would that be a spare part the he would easily be able to get from Stratford?

I am going to send you a PM with details of the prices to see if you think they are competitive.

Thanks again, Eilis

Chippy01 · 03-06-2012 04:11PM

I've been reading about stoves all weekend, and I'm getting fairly cross-eyed in the process.
Hopefully, someone here will be able to point me in the right direction with some tips on installation.

I have worked out that a 5kw multifuel stove (no backboiler) will be ample for our needs. We will be burning logs, sticks, coal,....... virtually anything that the stove manufacturer reccomends.
Our fireplace ope is 560mm high, by 490mm wide; which is just about the size of the majority of most 5kw stoves I have looked at.
I have no desire to break apart the fire surround, so the stove will have to sit just in front of the ope.

The chimney stack (block built with a 10" terracotta liner), sits outside of the extension that the fireplace is in, so that the internal wall is flat from end to end (no recesses). The stack itself finishes about 5 feet above the flat roof of the extension. So total height would be about 14 - 15 feet?

With the information I have learnt so far, I will need to install a 6 inch flexible flue liner into the stack, from the top all the way down to where the stove will sit. Then the chimney stack will be backfilled with an insulating material (from the top), to about 4 feet from the floor; as my chimney has some sort of reducing hole (about 7 inches in diameter) a foot or so above the firechair.
This will result in my chimney being flued and insulated, but the fireplace inself will be left open.

Now comes the bit I need some help with.

My idea is to remove the firechair, and block off the original fireplace ope, leaving a hole level with the rear flue outlet of the stove so that the flue liner could be connected to it.
I was thinking of a metal sheet, with a hole cut in the appropriate place and a sleeve welded into/onto the hole.
With the steel sheet held in a partially closed postion in the fireplace ope (like a door), the flexible flue liner could be attached to the sleeve on the fireplace side of the sheet. Once attached, the sheet could then be fixed to the fireplace ope by means of brackets (or something similar), effectively blocking the original fireplace ope.
Once that is done, the stove can then be pushed into place, with the rear outlet spigot entering the sleeve on the room side of the sheet.

Sealing these joints is one thing that has been running around my head, but I think some firerope and firecement could be carefully installed if the sleeve used left enough of a gap that could be filled.

It all sounded good in my head, until I started reading about the need for cleaning of the flue liner from time to time.

Pulling the stove from it's postion would leave me access to the base of the flue liner. Could I clean it from there? Or would I have to remove the steel plate, disconnect the flue liner and once it's been straightened a bit, clean up from there?

Is this a bad idea? A workable idea? Is there anything that I have missed?

Stove Fan · 03-06-2012 10:16PM

emg74 wrote: »

Hi StoveMan, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly and glad to hear that the SEB20 is a good stove - I was afraid that there was going to be a huge efficiency difference between that and the EB12

You mentioned that you prefer the EB12 for the fast heat up - On the days that I work( 3 days a week) , the fire wouldn't be going on till approx 6pm, how long roughly would it take the SEB20 to get the water hot and some heat in the rads in comparison to the EB12 - We use a mix of well seasoned softwood logs, turf & also always have a couple of bags of regular coal in the shed.

I want to make sure that we make the right choice.

Also do you think the supplier will be able to get a flat top rather than the roll top for the display stove that he has in stock... really don't like the top that is on the stove in the showroom. Would that be a spare part the he would easily be able to get from Stratford?

I am going to send you a PM with details of the prices to see if you think they are competitive.

Thanks again, Eilis

I would guess the EB12 would heat the rads 50% quicker than the SEB20. The seb20 would probably take around 45minutes as opposed to the 20 minutes of the EB12. Both these stoves would heat the domestic hot water first so may take longer than what I said.
Our ordinary boiler stove, non baffled it can take around 30-90minutes from cold to heat the rads to hot. If the domestic hot water is already hot the rads heat up quicker. If the domestic hot water is cool it takes longer for the rads to start to heat up.
There was someone on here who had the EB12 inset boiler stove installed and he said the rads heated up hot in around 20 minutes.

The main difference with the EB12 is that the backboiler has baffles in it that make the water flowing through take the longest route to get maximum heat transfer to the water inside.

The SEB20 doesnt have the baffles inside the boiler and so takes longer.

You say it's a display stove? It must not of been lit being dry and not connected and filled with water. The heat from a fire can ruin the boiler.

The supplier should be able to get the different top from his suppliers. I think most suppliers buy from Micon distribution but they only deal to the trade. The supplier may go direct to aarrow direct.

I have replied to your PM:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 03-06-2012 10:44PM

Chippy01 wrote: »

I've been reading about stoves all weekend, and I'm getting fairly cross-eyed in the process.
Hopefully, someone here will be able to point me in the right direction with some tips on installation.

I have worked out that a 5kw multifuel stove (no backboiler) will be ample for our needs. We will be burning logs, sticks, coal,....... virtually anything that the stove manufacturer reccomends.
Our fireplace ope is 560mm high, by 490mm wide; which is just about the size of the majority of most 5kw stoves I have looked at.
I have no desire to break apart the fire surround, so the stove will have to sit just in front of the ope.

The chimney stack (block built with a 10" terracotta liner), sits outside of the extension that the fireplace is in, so that the internal wall is flat from end to end (no recesses). The stack itself finishes about 5 feet above the flat roof of the extension. So total height would be about 14 - 15 feet?

With the information I have learnt so far, I will need to install a 6 inch flexible flue liner into the stack, from the top all the way down to where the stove will sit. Then the chimney stack will be backfilled with an insulating material (from the top), to about 4 feet from the floor; as my chimney has some sort of reducing hole (about 7 inches in diameter) a foot or so above the firechair.
This will result in my chimney being flued and insulated, but the fireplace inself will be left open.

Now comes the bit I need some help with.

My idea is to remove the firechair, and block off the original fireplace ope, leaving a hole level with the rear flue outlet of the stove so that the flue liner could be connected to it.
I was thinking of a metal sheet, with a hole cut in the appropriate place and a sleeve welded into/onto the hole.
With the steel sheet held in a partially closed postion in the fireplace ope (like a door), the flexible flue liner could be attached to the sleeve on the fireplace side of the sheet. Once attached, the sheet could then be fixed to the fireplace ope by means of brackets (or something similar), effectively blocking the original fireplace ope.
Once that is done, the stove can then be pushed into place, with the rear outlet spigot entering the sleeve on the room side of the sheet.

Sealing these joints is one thing that has been running around my head, but I think some firerope and firecement could be carefully installed if the sleeve used left enough of a gap that could be filled.

It all sounded good in my head, until I started reading about the need for cleaning of the flue liner from time to time.

Pulling the stove from it's postion would leave me access to the base of the flue liner. Could I clean it from there? Or would I have to remove the steel plate, disconnect the flue liner and once it's been straightened a bit, clean up from there?

Is this a bad idea? A workable idea? Is there anything that I have missed?

PM sent:)

emg74 · 03-06-2012 10:50PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

I would guess the EB12 would heat the rads 50% quicker than the SEB20. The seb20 would probably take around 45minutes as opposed to the 20 minutes of the EB12. Both these stoves would heat the domestic hot water first so may take longer than what I said.
Our ordinary boiler stove, non baffled it can take around 30-90minutes from cold to heat the rads to hot. If the domestic hot water is already hot the rads heat up quicker. If the domestic hot water is cool it takes longer for the rads to start to heat up.
There was someone on here who had the EB12 inset boiler stove installed and he said the rads heated up hot in around 20 minutes.

The main difference with the EB12 is that the backboiler has baffles in it that make the water flowing through take the longest route to get maximum heat transfer to the water inside.

The SEB20 doesnt have the baffles inside the boiler and so takes longer.

You say it's a display stove? It must not of been lit being dry and not connected and filled with water. The heat from a fire can ruin the boiler.

The supplier should be able to get the different top from his suppliers. I think most suppliers buy from Micon distribution but they only deal to the trade. The supplier may go direct to aarrow direct.

I have replied to your PM:)

Stove Fan:)

Hi - From your explanation above, I think we might go for the newer EB12 model, I know it will maybe be a bit more expensive initially but we will probably see results quicker. Esp on the evenings when I am coming in from work and want to get things heated up quickly. We don't use the oil very much but if there was heat in the rads within 20-30 mins of putting on the fire, we would be looking at getting away without having to use the oil next winter at all..

We will hopefully have a price on the EB12 on Tues / Wed and will hopefully be able to do a deal on our old one. I will leave my dearest husband to do the haggling -- he's way better than me

Thanks again for all your advice. You are the only person in the past couple of days who has been able to explain the actual difference in the SEB20 & the EB12, I just thought that it was the air wash that was a bit more secure on the EB12 - As soon as hubby heard about the baffles, it all made perfect sense as to why one was more efficient than the other - to be honest, It didn't mean a whole lot to me:rolleyes:

Stove Fan · 03-06-2012 11:24PM

emg74 wrote: »

Hi - From your explanation above, I think we might go for the newer EB12 model, I know it will maybe be a bit more expensive initially but we will probably see results quicker. Esp on the evenings when I am coming in from work and want to get things heated up quickly. We don't use the oil very much but if there was heat in the rads within 20-30 mins of putting on the fire, we would be looking at getting away without having to use the oil next winter at all..

We will hopefully have a price on the EB12 on Tues / Wed and will hopefully be able to do a deal on our old one. I will leave my dearest husband to do the haggling -- he's way better than me

Thanks again for all your advice. You are the only person in the past couple of days who has been able to explain the actual difference in the SEB20 & the EB12, I just thought that it was the air wash that was a bit more secure on the EB12 - As soon as hubby heard about the baffles, it all made perfect sense as to why one was more efficient than the other - to be honest, It didn't mean a whole lot to me:rolleyes:

If I was buying I think in your instance the EB12 is the better performer. Let us know how you get on. Glad I was able to help:).

Stove Fan:)

guy bono · 06-06-2012 12:47PM

guy bono wrote: »

Hi, to cut a long story short, i have a stove installed but the flue is installed incorrectly, which i discovered when i used wet timber and the sap flowed down the outside of the pipe. my OH has given me loads a grief (probably deserved) so not looking for any here! i'm looking to find a reliable installer who could fix my problem. based in laois; any recommendations appreciated. thanks

just wondering if anyone can help me on this question i asked last week. thanks

gomamochi1 · 06-06-2012 01:18PM

guy bono wrote: »

guy bono wrote: »

Hi, to cut a long story short, i have a stove installed but the flue is installed incorrectly, which i discovered when i used wet timber and the sap flowed down the outside of the pipe. my OH has given me loads a grief (probably deserved) so not looking for any here! i'm looking to find a reliable installer who could fix my problem. based in laois; any recommendations appreciated. thanks

just wondering if anyone can help me on this question i asked last week. thanks

Hi I did a similiar thing for a self install. Go to your local builders provider and ask their advice as I did and can't go far wrong!

Stove Fan · 06-06-2012 04:11PM

guy bono wrote: »

just wondering if anyone can help me on this question i asked last week. thanks

Sorry can't help with an installer but if you would like any advice regarding the best way forward then message me.

It sounds very much the flue pipe is upside down or the clay adapter isn't suitable or should be fully relined if the clay adapter can't be fitted properly to stop tar leaking out.

Any tar should run internally and not leak out.

Stove Fan:)

07-06-2012 09:12AM

I know there's loads of threads on this topic already, but most are about putting a stove in instead of a fireplace. Our house is 2,900 sq ft and was built 4 years ago - sorriest thing we ever did was not putting in a stove. Anyway there's an open fire in the sitting room, aswell as oil used to heat the house. We want to put a free standing stove in the kitchen. We want it to heat the kitchen and also to be able open the double doors into the conservatory which is just off it, to heat that too, on the not so cold days. The kitchen is 28x17 ft and the conservatory is 17x12 roughly.
So can anyone recommend what stove to get, and a ball park figure. Want to be able burn timber and coal. Just figure we can have that simmering during the day in winter, and light the fire in the sitting room at night, reducing oil consumotion. Any advice appreciated.

guy bono · 07-06-2012 03:37PM

Stove Fan, have found someone to look at it in the next few days so will see how i get on. If not sorted, will PM you then. Thanks

telecaster · 07-06-2012 08:41PM

Hello Stove Fan

Fair play to you for helping out so many people here. I'd like to join the list if possible please!

I am looking to have a wood burning stove with boiler installed to replace my oil heating in a dormer bungalow.

The room which the stove is going in to is sort of open plan with the kitchen (we removed double doors to make it all the one space).

This entire area is 8m x 5.2m and 2.5m high, which I make to be 104 cubic metres. There are 2 double patio doors and a large window in the room so there is a bit of heat loss. From my research I reckon in the ballpark of 7kw should cover the room?

For the boiler, I have 9 rads to heat:
140cm x 50cm
80 x 50 DOUBLE
60 x 50 DOUBLE
180 x 50
180 x 50 DOUBLE
200 x 50
160 x 50
200 x 50
60 x 50 DOUBLE

I was thinking something in the region of 13kw should heat them sufficiently?

What are your thoughts/corrections, or recommendations for a suitable model?

Many thanks for your help

Stove Fan · 07-06-2012 10:04PM

slookie wrote: »

I know there's loads of threads on this topic already, but most are about putting a stove in instead of a fireplace. Our house is 2,900 sq ft and was built 4 years ago - sorriest thing we ever did was not putting in a stove. Anyway there's an open fire in the sitting room, aswell as oil used to heat the house. We want to put a free standing stove in the kitchen. We want it to heat the kitchen and also to be able open the double doors into the conservatory which is just off it, to heat that too, on the not so cold days. The kitchen is 28x17 ft and the conservatory is 17x12 roughly.
So can anyone recommend what stove to get, and a ball park figure. Want to be able burn timber and coal. Just figure we can have that simmering during the day in winter, and light the fire in the sitting room at night, reducing oil consumotion. Any advice appreciated.

Hi your room requires a stove of 11kw max output. The one stove that would be ideal and great quality is the Charnwood island 2 as it has different heat outputs based on how often you refuel it.
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-ii.aspx

Another stove that would probably be fine heat wise would be the 8kw output woodwarm enigma stove.
http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/wildwood-range1/enigma8kwfreestanding.ashx
A pic and price here.
http://www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/woodwarm-stoves/woodwarm-enigma-8-multifuel-stove/

Personally though if your house is well insulated I think an 8kw stove may prove ample.

The charnwood is the most expensive then woodwarm.

You could also look up stanley etc, but personally the 2 above are a great make.

It's too hard to advice on installation costs, it so depends on chimney construction/condition. Just get 3 quotes.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 07-06-2012 10:20PM

telecaster wrote: »

Hello Stove Fan

Fair play to you for helping out so many people here. I'd like to join the list if possible please!

I am looking to have a wood burning stove with boiler installed to replace my oil heating in a dormer bungalow.

The room which the stove is going in to is sort of open plan with the kitchen (we removed double doors to make it all the one space).

This entire area is 8m x 5.2m and 2.5m high, which I make to be 104 cubic metres. There are 2 double patio doors and a large window in the room so there is a bit of heat loss. From my research I reckon in the ballpark of 7kw should cover the room?

For the boiler, I have 9 rads to heat:
140cm x 50cm
80 x 50 DOUBLE
60 x 50 DOUBLE
180 x 50
180 x 50 DOUBLE
200 x 50
160 x 50
200 x 50
60 x 50 DOUBLE

I was thinking something in the region of 13kw should heat them sufficiently?

What are your thoughts/corrections, or recommendations for a suitable model?

Many thanks for your help

Hi, You were very close. Based on your rad sizes and standard hot water cylinder you need a 15kw back boiler stove. Your rooms require around 7kw max to heat them probably less if well insulated.
The stove that may be suitable but best to get a site visit to see if the max 8kw output would be ok.

The New Arrow EB16HE.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb16-he.html

Stove Fan:)

08-06-2012 03:22PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi your room requires a stove of 11kw max output. The one stove that would be ideal and great quality is the Charnwood island 2 as it has different heat outputs based on how often you refuel it.
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-ii.aspx

Another stove that would probably be fine heat wise would be the 8kw output woodwarm enigma stove.
http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/wildwood-range1/enigma8kwfreestanding.ashx
A pic and price here.
http://www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/woodwarm-stoves/woodwarm-enigma-8-multifuel-stove/

Personally though if your house is well insulated I think an 8kw stove may prove ample.

The charnwood is the most expensive then woodwarm.

You could also look up stanley etc, but personally the 2 above are a great make.

It's too hard to advice on installation costs, it so depends on chimney construction/condition. Just get 3 quotes.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks for the reply. I dunno have you misunderstood my original post, but I just want the stove to heat the rooms...not connecting it to the rads or anything. Ive gotten prices for less than €500 and that is the max I will be spending.

emg74 · 08-06-2012 03:43PM

From recently looking at stoves - I think you will struggle to get a quality stove to heat that size area for less than €500. There are probably chinese imports that are that cheap but you should also look at the availability of parts etc down the line if there is a problem.

We bought a Stovax Stockton 3 room heater stove (3.7kw output) for our small sitting room a couple of years ago. We paid almost €500 for it (incl flue pipe to join into chimney) - It is more than adequate for our room but would be nowhere near good enough for a space the size of yours. This is just to give an idea of price

For some reason, I have a figure of €100 per KW output in my head as being a rough price for a good quality stove

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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