STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

bod71 · 26-04-2012 02:58PM

Richard tea wrote: »

I got a rough quote from a Dublin based company to supply and fit the woodwarm 4kw fireview stove for 1900 euro, Does this seem average?

Stove fan, I was looking at the arrow ecoburn 5 inset stove which seem to be going for 830 euro. I would imaging its a good few hundred cheaper than the woodwarm? Is ther really much difference from the ecoburn 5 inset & the 4kw fireview woodwarm stove.

Bod71 - I tried ringing hot stoves but I get no answer, Ill just keep trying I suppose.

Did you try his mobile; it's on the bottom of their web page.

Richard tea · 26-04-2012 03:28PM

bod71 wrote: »

Did you try his mobile; it's on the bottom of their web page.

Yeah just got through. Roughly looking at £900 for the fireview 4kw stove and £800 for installation incl the flue liner.

Thanks bod71

Stove Fan · 26-04-2012 04:49PM

Richard tea wrote: »

Yeah just got through. Roughly looking at £900 for the fireview 4kw stove and £800 for installation incl the flue liner.

Thanks bod71

Hi:) The woodwarm will be much better quality than the arrow ecoburn. Arrow are more the well known budget brand. Not terrible but average whereas the woodwarm is a more top end make.

The extra couple of hundred spent on a top brand now is well worth it when you consider it over the life of the stove. Better stoves have good door seals and so save fuel as they are more controllable so burn fuel slowly and keep the glass clean/cleaner:) Woodwarm stoves last well.
They are around £900 in mainland UK and 800 including fitting and liner is acceptable. I myself was thinking budget £2,000.
Do you have a marble/granite surround etc or does their price include this? I dont think you will be dissapointed in woodwarm. I emailed hot stoves last night and had an email from them this morning.

Stove Fan:)

Richard tea · 26-04-2012 05:01PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi:) The woodwarm will be much better quality than the arrow ecoburn. Arrow are more the well known budget brand. Not terrible but average whereas the woodwarm is a more top end make.

The extra couple of hundred spent on a top brand now is well worth it when you consider it over the life of the stove. Better stoves have good door seals and so save fuel as they are more controllable so burn fuel slowly:) Woodwarm stoves last well.
They are around £900 in mainland UK and 800 including fitting and liner is acceptable. I myself was thinking budget £2,000.
Do you have a marble/granite surround etc or does their price include this? I dont think you will be dissapointed in woodwarm. I emailed hot stoves last night and had an email from them this morning.

Stove Fan:)

I tried since last night up upload a pic but it keeps failing. Im pretty sure its a marble surround on my fireplace. I agree about the woodwarm. The ecoburn has an average rating on whatstove and woodwarm has a top 5 rating. I must ring the place in dublin again and see if their price included the flue.

Barrell · 26-04-2012 09:09PM

I have a existing chimney in which i will be putting a 150mm or 125mm flexi liner in the existing clay flue chimney, the flexi flue is then connected the the 100mm flue pipe using an adapter, how can the chimney now be cleaned?

Stove Fan · 26-04-2012 09:45PM

Barrell wrote: »

I have a existing chimney in which i will be putting a 150mm or 125mm flexi liner in the existing clay flue chimney, the flexi flue is then connected the the 100mm flue pipe using an adapter, how can the chimney now be cleaned?

Hi how is the flue going to exit the fire? Is it top or rear?

So long as the stove flue pipe doesn't have any 90 degree bends and uses 45 degree bends only you should be able to sweep the chimney through the stove itself. Some boiler stoves can't but the instructions will say about providing a soot door for sweeping access.

You can always buy a small length of rigid fluepipe with a sootdoor on it to sweep the flue. This fluepipe connects to the stove and is usually black and connects to the chimney flexi liner.

Stove Fan:)

Damoedge · 27-04-2012 10:23AM

Damoedge wrote: »

Hi All,

I have a Stanley erin stove about a year old now and i have a few questions about it, so thanks in advance.

1.
I have tried to clean the inside of the fire box a few times especially the back of the boiler itself to get rid of sooth for more heat transfer, my Question is: i cant remember if the back baffel plate should sit right back on to the boiler itself therefore no gap at bottom, just the side gaps at the wall, or should it be sitting as shown in the picture? icant remember which way it was originally.

2.
Is there any kind of spray solution/chemical/cleanner out there on the market that i can buy to dissolve the sooth instead of scrapping it away from the boiler? I usually clean in once every 2 months and the amout of sooth build up is unreal as you can see on the pic, or maybe there might be sort of home remedy that i dont know of.

3.
Does sooth really reduce the performance of the boiler? i know about the safty hazards and all.

any help would be much appriciated,
Thanks all
D

Attachment not found.

Anyone else have any more information? thanks.

Barrell · 27-04-2012 10:46AM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi how is the flue going to exit the fire? Is it top or rear?

So long as the stove flue pipe doesn't have any 90 degree bends and uses 45 degree bends only you should be able to sweep the chimney through the stove itself. Some boiler stoves can't but the instructions will say about providing a soot door for sweeping access.

You can always buy a small length of rigid fluepipe with a sootdoor on it to sweep the flue. This fluepipe connects to the stove and is usually black and connects to the chimney flexi liner.

Stove Fan:)

The flue will be through the top of the stove,

I just read the manula and it says Access for cleaning should be incorporated into the chimney (e.g. soot door, access through the register plate etc)

Can you not just sweep down from the top of chimney and then clean out the stove or is this not possible in boiler stove?

Stove Fan · 27-04-2012 12:34PM

Barrell wrote: »

The flue will be through the top of the stove,

I just read the manula and it says Access for cleaning should be incorporated into the chimney (e.g. soot door, access through the register plate etc)

Can you not just sweep down from the top of chimney and then clean out the stove or is this not possible in boiler stove?

No, It would be a big hassle every year or 6 months to sweep the flue by having to climb on the roof. Much, much safer to incorporate a soot door into the fluepipe just above the stove. You can buy lengths of pipe with the soot door preinstalled:)
Certainly in the UK it's a requirement you can sweep the flue either through the stove or sootdoor.
The majority of sweeps wouldn't want to know if they had to get on the roof for the sake of incorporating a soot door. You can always spray the soot door black to match the pipe if it's silver or brass effect.
If it's a boiler stove and the manufacturers state a soot door needs to be fitted then it can't be swept through the stove as the boiler is in the way.

Stove Fan:)

Mcorriga · 27-04-2012 06:01PM

Hi all,

I was wondering is it possible to get a Double Sided Stove with External Air Supply. It also need to be roomed sealed so that it works with a HRV system.

To add to this I would prefer if it was a freestanding stove

Just about to start on a new build and am toying with the Idea of putting in a HRV system....Although my ideas and plans on heating systems for the house change weekly!!

heinbloed · 27-04-2012 11:38PM

Mcorriga wrote:

I was wondering is it possible to get a Double Sided Stove with External Air Supply. It also need to be roomed sealed so that it works with a HRV system.

There is no room sealed stove, fueling and de-ashing is done via open stoves.

Check the manufacturer's information on his 'room air independant' stove's pressure requirements. They usually require a max. pressure difference between the room/outside of 5 mbar (or the like).
If your air extraction device causes a larger pressure difference a pressure guard/alarm is a must. The external air supply for the stove won't be working if the max. allowed pressure difference is exceeded.

patoinsf · 29-04-2012 08:52PM

I incorrectly posted this question in the general plumbing/Heating section so am repeating it here.

I am in a two story house and want to install a stove with a back boiler (erin or equiv). The problem is there is no existing fireplace in the location I want the stove. Is it possible to install a stove using a different type of chimney preferably one that does not require me busting out the floor slab to put in a foundation.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks

Stove Fan · 29-04-2012 10:25PM

patoinsf wrote: »

I incorrectly posted this question in the general plumbing/Heating section so am repeating it here.

I am in a two story house and want to install a stove with a back boiler (erin or equiv). The problem is there is no existing fireplace in the location I want the stove. Is it possible to install a stove using a different type of chimney preferably one that does not require me busting out the floor slab to put in a foundation.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks

Hi, you can have built a twin wall insulated stainless steel chimney, (Double skin). This doesnt require a foundation and is self supporting by using the manufacturers supports. This system can run internally or out the wall and up.
See website for flue components.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/flue-and-chimney.html
http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Negarra_MD_Plus.html

It's an expensive system but there are plenty of manufacturers. It is very quick to install and is an ideal way to create a new chimney.
Get three quotes for the work. Either competent builder or stove installer.

Stove Fan:)

darkhorse · 29-04-2012 10:30PM

Hi Stove Fan,

I am just getting back with a progress report, after getting all my work finished. I got an Erin multifuel with back boiler installed in my sitting room, which heats my eight rads comfortably and also gives us hot water.:) I got a Tara oil stove installed in my dining room, which is very hot just having it on the 1st, 2nd or 3rd setting(there are 6 settings) and I dont have it on most evenings as the rad is adequate enough to heat the dining room.:):)
Anyway, so far, I am very happy with everything. More important, my wife is very happy and very warm. May I just say again, Stove Fan, thank you for all your advice when I was starting this project several weeks ago.:):):)
John

Stove Fan · 29-04-2012 11:29PM

jbyrne10 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

I am just getting back with a progress report, after getting all my work finished. I got an Erin multifuel with back boiler installed in my sitting room, which heats my eight rads comfortably and also gives us hot water.:) I got a Tara oil stove installed in my dining room, which is very hot just having it on the 1st, 2nd or 3rd setting(there are 6 settings) and I dont have it on most evenings as the rad is adequate enough to heat the dining room.:):)
Anyway, so far, I am very happy with everything. More important, my wife is very happy and very warm. May I just say again, Stove Fan, thank you for all your advice when I was starting this project several weeks ago.:):):)
John

No problem:). Glad it all worked out, and that you are both pleased:D

Thanks, Stove Fan:)

Barrell · 30-04-2012 10:23AM

Has anyone got experience of Dunsley Highlander 8 boiler model? Are Dunsley a good make?

Stove Fan · 30-04-2012 05:27PM

Barrell wrote: »

Has anyone got experience of Dunsley Highlander 8 boiler model? Are Dunsley a good make?

Hi Dunsley are a good UK made stove.

Well known in the UK. I have only heard one person who had the grate warp on a 8 central heating stove.

Everyone on the forum thought it unusual.

See the post here.
http://www.thegreenlivingforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=105317&p=627832&hilit=dunsley+highlander+8#p627832

Stove Fan:)

patoinsf · 30-04-2012 07:20PM

Hi Stove Guy
Thanks a million for the information I will go ahead and do some reading on the systems and also look to price what I will require to do a proper job.

Tumadoir · 01-05-2012 12:10PM

Help!!!

Am fitting a 20kw stove, integrating into a sealed GFCH system, using systemlink.

Stove is not sufficiently pressure rated (2.1bar Test pressure, 1.7 bar operating pressure) to fit on a sealed system so I need to look at a header tank on the stove side of the system.

My question - what height does the header tank need to be? If I can avoid putting it into the attic this would save a lot of hassle - I am thinking of putting it at ceiling height (9') in the room the stove is in, but dont know if this would give enough head pressure to keep everything safe.

Equally, what is the minimum size of header tank required?

Any informed wisdom much appreciated!!

Thanks

heinbloed · 01-05-2012 02:54PM

@Tumadoir:

There are several problems you'll encounter when installing boilers, the legal ones first:

http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/sectors/pressure-and-gas/documents/ped/

Tumadoir · 01-05-2012 03:11PM

Thanks Heinbloed, but I'm not sure that answers my question... which is if there is a specific height a header tank needs to be at? - ie does it simply need to be higher than the boiler it is supplying, or is there additional height (and therefore head pressure) required?

I think the answer lies more in physics/common sense arena. As I say in original post, I am hoping to avoid siting tank in the attic, which will involve bringing pipes through a floor and two ceilings, if it is possible to site it high up in the room where the boiler is.

Any information on this is appreciated. Thanks for replying

heinbloed · 01-05-2012 04:03PM

@ Tumadoir:

To achieve a pressure of 1.7 bar a water height of 17 meters is necessary.

1 bar = 10 meters
0.1 bar = 1 meter

Note that boilers designed to operate in pressurised systems are usually not designed to operate in vented systems.

The EU boiler directive is legally binding, for design and installation of pressurised systems a DIY aproach is not recommended.

Barrell · 02-05-2012 03:08PM

Is it ok to cut a 600mm flue pipe to 475mm or can i get 475mm length? if i do end up cutting it will it fit to the flue adapter properly?

Stove Fan · 02-05-2012 04:19PM

Tumadoir wrote: »

Help!!!

Am fitting a 20kw stove, integrating into a sealed GFCH system, using systemlink.

Stove is not sufficiently pressure rated (2.1bar Test pressure, 1.7 bar operating pressure) to fit on a sealed system so I need to look at a header tank on the stove side of the system.

My question - what height does the header tank need to be? If I can avoid putting it into the attic this would save a lot of hassle - I am thinking of putting it at ceiling height (9') in the room the stove is in, but dont know if this would give enough head pressure to keep everything safe.

Equally, what is the minimum size of header tank required?

Any informed wisdom much appreciated!!

Thanks

I'm not up on the systemlink, so can't say if it's suitable or not. Ideally I would use an open vented thermal store (accumulator) This would have a coil in for the gas boiler to heat with the gas boiler side staying sealed.
The other connections on the store would be for your solid fuel boiler which would be open vented. The expansion tank would need to be higher than the highest radiator.

I would get a plumber in who will spec and design the system for you.
It's very hard to advice from afar as plumbing layout greatly influences the spec and design.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 02-05-2012 04:23PM

Barrell wrote: »

Is it ok to cut a 600mm flue pipe to 475mm or can i get 475mm length? if i do end up cutting it will it fit to the flue adapter properly?

Yes it's no problem to cut a flue pipe down. Just make sure you fit the flue with socket uppermost and cut the pipe width part only.

You'll see which end to cut as you see how the pipes/elbows fit together. Angle grinder with thin metal cutting disk works well resting on something soft to prevent scratches.

Stove Fan:)

Barrell · 02-05-2012 05:28PM

Stove Fan wrote: »

Yes it's no problem to cut a flue pipe down. Just make sure you fit the flue with socket uppermost and cut the pipe width part only.

You'll see which end to cut as you see how the pipes/elbows fit together. Angle grinder with thin metal cutting disk works well resting on something soft to prevent scratches.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks again Stove Fan

If I was to install a flue pipe with a pre-installed soot door is there a min distance the soot door shoul be from the stove?

gfgene · 02-05-2012 06:57PM

Sorry about not thanking you sooner about your input.... better late than never Thanks!!

gfgene · 02-05-2012 07:03PM

Mcorriga wrote: »

Hi all,

I was wondering is it possible to get a Double Sided Stove with External Air Supply. It also need to be roomed sealed so that it works with a HRV system.

To add to this I would prefer if it was a freestanding stove

Just about to start on a new build and am toying with the Idea of putting in a HRV system....Although my ideas and plans on heating systems for the house change weekly!!

Its not a stove but its air tight, it has the option of combustion air from outside, might be worth a look, I think Im going with one.... and will prob bring it in from italy direct way way cheeper than here... MCZ Forma b 95.. not freestanding either....

gfgene · 02-05-2012 07:04PM

gfgene wrote: »

Sorry about not thanking you sooner about your input.... better late than never Thanks!!

Dho! @ Stovefan!

Stove Fan · 03-05-2012 12:59AM

Barrell wrote: »

Thanks again Stove Fan

If I was to install a flue pipe with a pre-installed soot door is there a min distance the soot door shoul be from the stove?

Ideally as near the stove as practical or on a 45 degree bend. So long as you can clean the soot from the pipe either pushing upwards or pushing downwards from the soot door to stove, then that is fine. So long as any bends are 45 degrees you'll have no trouble sweeping them.
If top flued then I would opt for soot door on the bend.

Stove Fan:)

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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