How to service your car

denashpot · 29-01-2012 10:17pm

Can anyone recommend a good place to service my Peugeot 206 in Cork city?

T954 · 03-02-2012 11:28am

Theres lots of places doing the 100 euro oil change and safety check thing. Ring around for a price or do it yourself. Just an oil change is very simple.

Ronnie Beck · 23-02-2012 10:38pm

Cill Dara Abu wrote: »

So I attempted my first service yesterday and it didn't exactly go according to plan.

Done the spark plugs first which was easy and also the air filter, then I jacked up the car and tried to turn the oil filter which did not budge as hard as I tried it wouldn't turn so thats that I may get an adjustable wrench to take it off. Bit disappointed with it tbh.

If you get an old bicycle tyre and wrap it around the filter and then around a tyre wrench. Turn the tyre wrench to tighten the tyre around the filter. Then twist the whole lot. Does more are less the same job as the proper yolk.

27-02-2012 10:29pm

Used this guide to do my first oil change on a 00 1.4 Corolla, which is also my first car.

Emptying the oil was handy enough but that oil filter jaysus! It's like it was welded on, screwdriver through it didn't even work. A giant vice grips did though, crushed the living sh1t out of the little b@stard.

MickySticks · 03-03-2012 3:06am

Is 5w/30 fully synthetic oil ok for a 03 Nissan Almera 1.5?

The_Joker · 03-03-2012 3:51pm

Recommended 5W/30 semi synthetic oil API/ACEA SJ/A3
Fully synthetic is even better

Merch · 03-03-2012 4:12pm

pudzey101 wrote: »

I removed my filter the old fashioned way screwdriver straight threw it and give it few tips with a hammer:)

got a lend of a filter remover (not sure the name but theres like a bicycle chain on it lol) no good at all it was on so tight

I would never remove a filter by that method, I have never had a problem removing a filter with any proper tool, I think maybe you weren't using the filter tool correctly or (and no offense but I've seen/heard people do this) maybe you were turning the wrong way and actually tightening it?
if you are lying on your back and craning your neck back/upside down its possible to think ok, turn this way, hang on, no its the other way.
Filter should not be put on that tight anyway if it was.

What happens if you cant remove it and now have a filter stuck on but with two holes in it?? besides other possible problems?

MickySticks · 30-03-2012 10:40pm

Serviced my car for the first time today. Well I changed the oil and oil filter. I had done air filter, spark plugs, wipers, etc a while ago. The filter was a bit of a struggle before so I bought an oil filter wrench and it worked a treat. It's a 03 Almera, I have to say very little oil came out of the sump and when I refilled it only took around 3L.

Next on my list is new tyres and a fog light!

Merch · 31-03-2012 1:33am

MickySticks wrote: »

Serviced my car for the first time today. Well I changed the oil and oil filter. I had done air filter, spark plugs, wipers, etc a while ago. The filter was a bit of a struggle before so I bought an oil filter wrench and it worked a treat. It's a 03 Almera, I have to say very little oil came out of the sump and when I refilled it only took around 3L.

Next on my list is new tyres and a fog light!

So long as you check the dipstick with the car on a level surface, 3 litres doesnt sound like enough to me but not certain, would have thought at least 4 maybe 4.5, if you have the owners manual take a look, but the dipstick will do the same job.

MickySticks · 31-03-2012 3:12am

Merch wrote: »

So long as you check the dipstick with the car on a level surface, 3 litres doesnt sound like enough to me but not certain, would have thought at least 4 maybe 4.5, if you have the owners manual take a look, but the dipstick will do the same job.

Just looked it up there, it's actually 2.7 litres. :eek:

Mar4ix · 31-03-2012 3:35am

yepp... 2.7 l. of oil.

coolant, 6.7 litres :eek:

Merch · 31-03-2012 1:55pm

2.7 well, thats a suprise to me

Know someone with an Almera, they never mentioned that, I even had a haynes for it once, never noticed it either.
2.7 with filter, well if thats what it is, I'd still buy in the 4-5 litre container size as its cheaper and leaves some for topping up if needed.

leeomurchu · 03-09-2012 12:27pm

Has anybody tackled the front pads yet as I'm about to replace them myself.

When it comes to pushing back the pistons do you have to buy the kit (link posted earlier) or would a G clamp and metal plate do the job.

I've been told to compress them slowly so as not to turn the seals in the piston and a smearing of copper grease on the back of the pads where the piston contacts the metal backing plate and nowhere near front of pads or disk

Anyway a walk through on this would be helpful if someone had the time.

Great post volvo boy and nissan doctor.

Hal1 · 03-09-2012 1:30pm

I would only wind back the caliper piston if the pad was really worn (down near to metal). As the piston extends at the same rate as the pad wears. Winding the piston back can force brake fluid up into the resevoir fill cap. I open the bleed nipple on the caliper to relieve the pressure on the caliper seals, and just have a tube and bottle to collect the fluid.

Nissan doctor · 03-09-2012 10:58pm

leeomurchu wrote: »

Has anybody tackled the front pads yet as I'm about to replace them myself.

When it comes to pushing back the pistons do you have to buy the kit (link posted earlier) or would a G clamp and metal plate do the job.

I've been told to compress them slowly so as not to turn the seals in the piston and a smearing of copper grease on the back of the pads where the piston contacts the metal backing plate and nowhere near front of pads or disk

Anyway a walk through on this would be helpful if someone had the time.

Great post volvo boy and nissan doctor.

A metal plate(or the old pad) and a G clamp will work fine.

The correct way to change pads is to clamp the brake hose and open the bleed nipple when pushing back the piston. This not only relieves pressure on the master cylinder but it bleeds the worst of the brake fluid(the brake fluid within the caliper will be subject to the most heat).

If the new pads have anti rattle clips/plates on the rear then they shouldn't need copper grease but it will do no harm if you use it. A light covering on the rear of the pad and a small amount on the points where the pad slides on the caliper.

When you have the caliper off check the seal around the piston for rips or other damage and check the caliper sliders move freely and evenly.

What car is it BTW?

leeomurchu · 04-09-2012 9:14am

Nissan doctor wrote: »

A metal plate(or the old pad) and a G clamp will work fine.

The correct way to change pads is to clamp the brake hose and open the bleed nipple when pushing back the piston. This not only relieves pressure on the master cylinder but it bleeds the worst of the brake fluid(the brake fluid within the caliper will be subject to the most heat).

If the new pads have anti rattle clips/plates on the rear then they shouldn't need copper grease but it will do no harm if you use it. A light covering on the rear of the pad and a small amount on the points where the pad slides on the caliper.

When you have the caliper off check the seal around the piston for rips or other damage and check the caliper sliders move freely and evenly.

What car is it BTW?

It's actually 2 cars an 03 renault megane scenic 2 1.6 and an 02 VW polo.

I've not got a brass washer to my name these days so needs must but reading this thread and your advice with pictures i'm feeling a bit more confident.

Fair play to you by the way there's many who'd say F off and pay for a service in a garage. I appreciate any help and advice

Nissan doctor · 04-09-2012 9:27am

leeomurchu wrote: »

It's actually 2 cars an 03 renault megane scenic 2 1.6 and an 02 VW polo.

I've not got a brass washer to my name these days so needs must but reading this thread and your advice with pictures i'm feeling a bit more confident.

Fair play to you by the way there's many who'd say F off and pay for a service in a garage. I appreciate any help and advice

You will need a 7mm hex/allen key to remove the caliper bolts on the Polo at least. Most socket sets don't incude one but you can get a specific caliper allen key in Halfords pretty cheap.

leeomurchu · 04-09-2012 9:35am

Nissan doctor wrote: »

You will need a 7mm hex/allen key to remove the caliper bolts on the Polo at least. Most socket sets don't incude one but you can get a specific caliper allen key in Halfords pretty cheap.

I got a loan of that big socket set halfords sell off a neighbour so hopefully it's in there. Do you know where the fuel filter is on either car as the polo has a bit of a stutter at idle.

The Renaults a whole different kettle of fish great practical family car if only they put a little more effort in when building it. I've the 1.6 which has a known fault with a dephaser pulley so it sounds like a bag of spanners are in the cylinders on start up might take 2-3 goes to start I'll see about changing that when the timing belt needs doing (don't think I'd want to tackle that one)

cletus · 04-09-2012 10:10am

It wont be, you'll have to buy it seperately, about €6 from halfords

michelleD · 24-09-2012 9:30am

Good you had managed to do it alone through the help of that guide. Some people have always reason about not changing their own oil, which often get us wrong, weak and an excellent humiliation. In fact, Margaret Dunning, a 102-year-old retiree, still changes her very own oil and has been keeping her 1930 Packard running since she bought it 83 years ago. Indeed, one of the most incredible women Margaret Dunning, at 102, still changes her own oil.

:cool:

davehey79 · 02-10-2012 1:50pm

lads i hav a 99 h/b bug eyed corolla, the timing belt was done at 132,00 miles and the car is now nearly at 155,00 miles when would anyone here thats in the know reccomend changing the timing belt as i wouldnt have a notion. did a mini service myself but timing belt know how is a no no

leeomurchu · 02-10-2012 8:30pm

davehey79 wrote: »

lads i hav a 99 h/b bug eyed corolla, the timing belt was done at 132,00 miles and the car is now nearly at 155,00 miles when would anyone here thats in the know reccomend changing the timing belt as i wouldnt have a notion. did a mini service myself but timing belt know how is a no no

Another 20k before you'll be needing a belt change I think. they're usually good for 40-50k

Nissan doctor · 02-10-2012 11:50pm

davehey79 wrote: »

lads i hav a 99 h/b bug eyed corolla, the timing belt was done at 132,00 miles and the car is now nearly at 155,00 miles when would anyone here thats in the know reccomend changing the timing belt as i wouldnt have a notion. did a mini service myself but timing belt know how is a no no

Every 60,000 miles OR 5 years so you'll need to know how long ago it was changed as well.

pappyodaniel · 09-11-2012 4:03am

I recently done an oil/air filter and oil change on my E30 and it all went well. Saved myself well over €100 doing it myself and being my first time to do so, it was very satisfying.

Now one specific question regarding the E30.
How do I reset the service lights on the dashboard? It's an early 1985 model 320 automatic Cabriolet. I'd say it's something to do with the diagnostic but I'm a complete noob when it comes to auto electrics/mechanics.

Any help would be well appreciated.

Slidey · 09-11-2012 7:36am

I remember doing this before. Had a quick look online and what you need is here

pappyodaniel · 09-11-2012 5:25pm

Slidey wrote: »

I remember doing this before. Had a quick look online and what you need is here

Sound.

So just a small piece of electrical wire attached to the right connectors. That sounds easy. Thanks Slidey.

JJJJNR · 11-11-2012 10:07pm

Car: Seat Altea 2.0TDi
Year: 2005
KM's: 253,000

Issue: I have upgraded my front brakes to 312mm disk and calipers from a Mk5 GTI I used the old pads from the original 288mm setup but now there is a 10mm groove going around the disks? do I need to change the pad's to the same size..?

joujoujou · 11-11-2012 10:33pm

Yep, get the pads for Mk5 GTI.

Nissan doctor · 11-11-2012 10:49pm

JJJJNR wrote: »

Car: Seat Altea 2.0TDi
Year: 2005
KM's: 253,000

Issue: I have upgraded my front brakes to 312mm disk and calipers from a Mk5 GTI I used the old pads from the original 288mm setup but now there is a 10mm groove going around the disks? do I need to change the pad's to the same size..?

Why would you not have used GTI pads too? Brake pads are matched to the disks.

Ronnie Beck · 11-11-2012 11:37pm

JJJJNR wrote: »

Car: Seat Altea 2.0TDi
Year: 2005
KM's: 253,000

Issue: I have upgraded my front brakes to 312mm disk and calipers from a Mk5 GTI I used the old pads from the original 288mm setup but now there is a 10mm groove going around the disks? do I need to change the pad's to the same size..?

You might want to change the discs again too if the smaller pads have cut a decent track into them.

JJJJNR · 13-11-2012 10:49pm

offline for a few days, the track isn't too bad its hardly noticeable, but its there anyway, i'm fitting the rear calipers/disk/pads and will change the front pads also, the fronts pads fitted very flush with the caliper so didn't think there would be an issue, hope they haven't gone too far !.

monkeysnapper · 20-03-2013 12:12pm

Can I ask a silly question. When changing oil how much roughly should I be putting back in. I have a Audi a4 1.9 tdi 2003 . I'm going to scare the life out of myself and do a oil change by my self.

Last year I decided to buy some clippers and groom my own dogs and got away with it saving myself a small fortune on my 3 dogs so I reakon I'm defo qualified in trying to do a oil change

Harcrid · 20-03-2013 1:39pm

At least the car wont squirm around on you trying to run away while you work on it... :-)

biko · 20-03-2013 2:39pm

monkeysnapper wrote: »

Can I ask a silly question. When changing oil how much roughly should I be putting back in. I have a Audi a4 1.9 tdi 2003

I think that car takes 4.5 litres total (it's in the manual if you have one) but not all oil will leave the system during the drain.
Buy 5 litres and after having drained the old oil and changed the filter put the car down on the ground (make sure you put sump plug back).
Then fill with about 3 litres or so and check the dip stick. Fill a bit more and check. Keep doing this until you've hit the right mark on the stick.
Keep the rest of the oil and check the level the next morning, you may have to top up a bit more.

There's vids on youtube on how to do the change, watch a few to get the hang of it.

BUBBLE WRAP · 20-03-2013 2:54pm

biko wrote: »

I think that car takes 4.5 litres total (it's in the manual if you have one) but not all oil will leave the system during the drain.
Buy 5 litres and after having drained the old oil and changed the filter put the car down on the ground (make sure you put sump plug back).
Then fill with about 3 litres or so and check the dip stick. Fill a bit more and check. Keep doing this until you've hit the right mark on the stick.
Keep the rest of the oil and check the level the next morning, you may have to top up a bit more.

There's vids on youtube on how to do the change, watch a few to get the hang of it.

That's good advice there. But just to ad, it's also good to have the car on an even level. other wise if it's on a slope the dipstick won't give as good of a reading.

Esel · 20-03-2013 9:21pm

BUBBLE WRAP wrote: »

That's good advice there. But just to ad, it's also good to have the car on an even level. other wise if it's on a slope the dipstick won't give as good of a reading.

Good advice alright.

Remember though to allow a few minutes for the new oil to drain into the sump before checking the level. Also, after you are happy with the level, run the engine for a couple of minutes then check the level again (after waiting for the oil to drain back to the sump again).

BUBBLE WRAP · 20-03-2013 9:27pm

Esel wrote: »

Good advice alright.

Remember though to allow a few minutes for the new oil to drain into the sump before checking the level. Also, after you are happy with the level, run the engine for a couple of minutes then check the level again (after waiting for the oil to drain back to the sump again).

Yup, that's also a very important point.

monkeysnapper · 22-03-2013 1:11am

I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didnt say in all the others was when your rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter ,not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

I was going to do service today but weather was so bad i put it off. Im feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if i cant get the oil filter off.

Ive seen people saying smack a skrewdriver through it but that sounds like a knightmere waiting to happen. ill use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesnt work ....uuughhh ill just cry i think

Hal1 · 22-03-2013 1:18am

Just have a bit of faith and plan each step in advance. Have a container at the ready to collect the waste oil, a funnel might be a good idea for draining and filling. Get an oil filter wrench from your motor factors it will save a lot of swearing. I've been at one before with a screw driver on an old golf and it took an eternity to remove it, bits of it were everywhere

.

Esel · 22-03-2013 1:23am

monkeysnapper wrote: »

I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didn't say in all the others was if you're rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter, not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

Not if, but when...

monkeysnapper wrote: »

I was going to do service today but weather was so bad I put it off. I'm feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if I can't get the oil filter off.

I've seen people saying smack a screwdriver through it but that sounds like a nightmare waiting to happen. I'll use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesn't work ....uuughhh I'll just cry I think

Are you talking about rubber gloves? Good luck with that! Apart from the heat, I don't think you will loosen a cartridge filter by hand. Buy yourself a decent removal tool - You'll be using it again and again (hopefully).

Mr. Wong · 22-03-2013 1:24am

Atlantic Dawn wrote: »

I'd recommend getting a different tool for removing the filter, there's various types on the market and some will be suited more to your car. In the past I used the chain wrench but find the band one best for my car.

http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_209641_langId_-1_categoryId_212616
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_525159_langId_-1_categoryId_212616
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_525117_langId_-1_categoryId_212616
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_199193_categoryId_212616_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_List_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PLPz1

monkeysnapper wrote: »

I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didnt say in all the others was if your rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter ,not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

I was going to do service today but weather was so bad i put it off. Im feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if i cant get the oil filter off.

Ive seen people saying smack a skrewdriver through it but that sounds like a knightmere waiting to happen. ill use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesnt work ....uuughhh ill just cry i think

nct tester · 22-03-2013 2:28pm

monkeysnapper wrote: »

I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didnt say in all the others was when your rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter ,not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

I was going to do service today but weather was so bad i put it off. Im feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if i cant get the oil filter off.

Ive seen people saying smack a skrewdriver through it but that sounds like a knightmere waiting to happen. ill use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesnt work ....uuughhh ill just cry i think

id say there's a paper filter on your car so putting a screwdriver through it would be a bad choice.

Ronnie Beck · 24-03-2013 7:54pm

nct tester wrote: »

[/B]

id say there's a paper filter on your car so putting a screwdriver through it would be a bad choice.

+1

Them 1.9 tdi's require a cup to remove the filter housing. Like this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199193_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

You have to reuse the outer housing and just replace the paper insert.

You will also need a ratchet to operate the cup.

monkeysnapper · 26-03-2013 12:14am

Ronnie Beck wrote: »

+1

Them 1.9 tdi's require a cup to remove the filter housing. Like this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199193_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

You have to reuse the outer housing and just replace the paper insert.

You will also need a ratchet to operate the cup.

i bought the filter remover but not this one.

I just want to add a few things that i didnt see to much in this thread.

My audi a4 2003 has plastic covers all under the body, has very little gap just by wheels to jack up car for say punchures, but not enough room to chuck in a axle stand so im having to look into this.

Even when i jacked up car on full jack on my trolley jack i still didnt have enough room to put axle stands in. i suppose i should raise trollet jack up a little. (maybe??)

I saw on a site that you shouldn't raise one side with a axle stand leaving other side down . you should raise whole front of car in centre and put in axle stands on each side.

i think ive looked into this to much now and the dreaded internet has just confused me.

Ive got some wheels to put under cars wheels as insurance once i got car up. I just need a little more advice before i under go my challenge.

Slidey · 26-03-2013 9:00am

You could just drive the car up on to a few blocks of wood. It's what I always did

Peanut2011 · 26-03-2013 9:04am

monkeysnapper wrote: »

Can I ask a silly question. When changing oil how much roughly should I be putting back in. I have a Audi a4 1.9 tdi 2003 .

I'd say you are better off consulting a car manual for that. I would also say it depends if you are changing the oil filter or not.

Slidey · 26-03-2013 9:20am

Peanut2011 wrote: »

I'd say you are better off consulting a car manual for that. I would also say it depends if you are changing the oil filter or not.

No need to consult a car manual.

Of course he is going to change the oil filter, it's pretty pointless otherwise, the paper element is about €8

If he buys a gallon of oil he will have some left over

harg90 · 26-04-2013 8:35pm

Peanut2011 wrote: »

I'd say you are better off consulting a car manual for that. I would also say it depends if you are changing the oil filter or not.

why on earth would you change the iol and not the filter?

do people realise that a full service entails ALOT more than just an engine service?

Ilik Urgee · 30-04-2013 7:25pm

The service reminder light is on in my own car,850 miles til service due. It's going in for an NCT on Friday. Will it fail because of the warning light?

Didn't see the need to start a new thread so apologies if it's not allowed here.

Ded_Zebra · 30-04-2013 7:37pm

Ilik Urgee wrote: »

The service reminder light is on in my own car,850 miles til service due. It's going in for an NCT on Friday. Will it fail because of the warning light?

Didn't see the need to start a new thread so apologies if it's not allowed here.

Won't be an issue but, something might be found when the car is being serviced that would be a failure. The light will not be an issue

How to service your car

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