Buying knives

S.R.F.C. wrote: »

Can anyone help me with regards to buying a knife sharpener, should i be going with a standard steel ie http://cgi.ebay.ie/Professional-Knife-Sharpener-Sharpening-Steel-Chef-NEW-/170670839486?pt=UK_Kitchen_Accessories&hash=item27bcc656be or one of these http://cgi.ebay.ie/Kitchen-Craft-Worktop-Knife-Sharpener-/320728502981?pt=UK_Kitchen_Accessories&hash=item4aace892c5 ?

Thanks in advance for any help

Both!

There are people here a lot more knowledgeable on knife sharpening but as I understand it a steel will merely maintain and edge on a knife and you need a separate sharpening system - you should use the steel daily and then every few weeks or months sharpen it.
I bought an oil stone for sharpening but wasn't getting good results so I bought one of these. I found it a bit harsh on the knives and it wore away pretty quickly itself so last week I bought one of these -€35.90. Too early to tell if it's any good or not but the shop (Brennan's, Cork) swore by them and they know me as a customer and are pretty reliable.
I think cheaper sharpeners will wear away your knife quickly so if you have good knives, it's worth investing in a good sharpener.

I'd like to hear other peoples take on this too.

BaZmO* wrote: »

It's strange that that sharpener is described as...



So you'd essentially be using a steel to sharpen your knife? Kinda goes against the principle of what a steel is for.

Yeah I came across that too but was sort of ignoring it:rolleyes:

Has anyone used the JML Nudo Knives before?

http://www.jmldirect.com/N%C3%BCdo-Knife-Set-and-Universal-Knife-Block-PN4420/

mildews wrote: »

Does anyone know if there is a place in Dublin where I can buy Ceramic Knives made by Kyocera?
Thanks.

I want to know this too, or just any place to get any brand. Would TK maxx usually have them?

Here's a handy comparison for (mostly) stainless double-beveled (Western-style) Japanese knives:

http://news.korin.com/media_images/news134/news134.html

These guys ship all over the world:

http://korin.com/Shop/Western-Style-Knives

I have a couple of Masamoto knives and splitting hairs has never been so enjoyable, or quick :pac:

I was a chef and left it in the 70s to go my merry way. One of those merry ways was engineering. When I went back to the cooking there was this thick bladed knife in the kitchen, you know the type, 3mm blade and hard to push through a turnip. Merging my culinary experience with my engineering ones, I brought it home. Laid it on its side horizontally in a 4 inch vice. I plugged in my 110 transformered 4 inch grinder and stuck on a flap disc. I gently sanded the left hand side of the blade edge, then I turned it over in the vice and did it the same on the other side, making sure all the time that the disc is grinding away from the blade edge. The blade should be laid flat and the grinding disc almost flat when grinding. This gets me a knife that will zip through the softest tomatoes and anything you want to put it through.
Ask your husband to do this if he has a 4 inch grinder, the whole exercise takes no more than three minutes and you are left with a knife with a better edge than when it left the cutlers. We (the old culinary ones) use to buy our knives in the United Yeast Company opposite Trinity College, from what I hear they are still there and most helpful.
When I worked in the Russell Hotel on St Stephens Green under Head Chef, Pierre Roland in the 1960's, our knives were sent out regularly to be sharpened. The Meat and vegetable corners would use a steel to keep the sharp.
Cheers.
Tom.

I brought it home. Laid it on its side horizontally in a 4 inch vice. I plugged in my 110 transformered 4 inch grinder and stuck on a flap disc. I gently sanded the left hand side of the blade edge, then I turned it over in the vice and did it the same on the other side, making sure all the time that the disc is grinding away from the blade edge. The blade should be laid flat and the grinding disc almost flat when grinding. This gets me a knife that will zip through the softest tomatoes and anything you want to put it through.

I have a Viell 1x42 belt sander for doing this type of thinning, must fit a motor to it this year. The main thing using power tools on your knives is to watch heat build up at the edge. If it's too hot to hold with bare hands then you need to dip in water quick!

A light touch and keeping the edge cool will give a thinned blade that will cut very well. A quick convexing can be done at the same time depending if you grind on the platen or in the slacker belt section above the platen.
I like a convex on softer steel knives as it supports the edge, and can help hold on to carbides in the edge, rather than having them tear out.

Failing a belt sander, a buffer or power file could be used with great care!

A buffer is one of the most dangerous tools to use with a knife, it can grab and fling the knife in an act.

Eye protection is a must also, let's not hurt ourselves for lack of PPE.

Threads merged.

tHB

All it says is "japanese Molybdenum steel". The only knives I have a good knowledge of are filleting knives and gutting/skinning knives so I don't know what to make of this one. I just thought it looked like a good knife.

I'm cooking a turkey for the first time this year and have just realised that I don't have a carving knife. I usually just use a chef's knife for smaller roasts, but it doesn't make for very neat slices.

Can someone recommend a decent one that isn't too expensive?

And should I got for electric or traditional?

Thanks!

Thanks for all the replies. I'll think I'll buy that one since so many people recommend it.