riello 40 oil pump problem

okeedokee · 30-11-2011 01:30PM #1

i cannot adjust the pump presssure. i have a gauge on and it flickers from 16 to 20 bar. no matter what way i adjust the screw there is no change. any ideas gladly welcome

DoneDL · 30-11-2011 05:14PM

Gauge might be on its way out but aiir in the oil pipe, drive coupling worn, bypass screw fited when it shouldn`t be, blocked filter. 16 or 20 bar is not welome on a domestic oil burner, its far, far too high.

Billy Bunting · 30-11-2011 06:35PM

okeedokee wrote: »

i cannot adjust the pump presssure. i have a gauge on and it flickers from 16 to 20 bar. no matter what way i adjust the screw there is no change. any ideas gladly welcome

Why did you want to adjust the oil pressure ?

okeedokee · 01-12-2011 11:15PM

thanks for the help, problem was air. turned the oil off ,fully drained the pump and lines then re-primed and burner fired up first time.

Micky Dolenz · 01-12-2011 11:27PM

okeedokee wrote: »

thanks for the help, problem was air. turned the oil off ,fully drained the pump and lines then re-primed and burner fired up first time.

Nice one,

And there was me changing the pump :P

DGOBS · 02-12-2011 03:37PM

Wildly fluctuating oil pressure is nearly always a sign of oil starvation, the gauge jumps about (assume you had tried turning it up, when it was jumping at so high a pressure) but would usually be more of partial blockage that air.

If in doubt, always fit a vacuum gauge (see they do have uses!!) and check to see if the pump is ok, and if you see a pressure generated on the vacuum, it's a fuel/filter/blockage (assuming the tank isn't below the pump level)

chimmy chonga · 18-01-2012 01:35PM

My Riello 40 pump works intermittently what can cause this? This happened over the Christmas so I took the pump off and checked the filter gave it a general clean re installed it and off she went. It kept going until I switched it off but when I tried to re start –nothing. Any ideas? I checked the fuel supply and all is wel, I’m getting a spark but the nozzle is dry.

Billy Bunting · 18-01-2012 03:27PM

It kept going until I switched it off but when I tried to re start –nothing.

Is the motor/pump actually running

DGOBS · 18-01-2012 04:16PM

Sounds like a pump or solenoid from the limited info given

chimmy chonga · 18-01-2012 05:03PM

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Is the motor/pump actually running

Yes the pump runs for about 5 seconds then lock out.

DGOBS · 18-01-2012 05:29PM

If solenoid is good, you have fuel, and blast tube remains dry (ie no fuel into chamber) then your pump is knackered

chimmy chonga · 18-01-2012 05:45PM

DGOBS wrote: »

If solenoid is good, you have fuel, and blast tube remains dry (ie no fuel into chamber) then your pump is knackered

I have to agree with you there - I checked around and they have one in Heatmerchants €95. Can I just replace the old pump or do I need to have it commissioned?

okeedokee · 18-01-2012 09:41PM

chimmy chonga wrote: »

DGOBS wrote: »

If solenoid is good, you have fuel, and blast tube remains dry (ie no fuel into chamber) then your pump is knackered

I have to agree with you there - I checked around and they have one in Heatmerchants €95. Can I just replace the old pump or do I need to have it commissioned?

Are you sure the link from the motor to the pump is ok , they do get worn. Do you have a gauge to fit on the pump to check the pressure to make sure the pump is turning.

Billy Bunting · 18-01-2012 09:58PM

chimmy chonga wrote: »

I have to agree with you there - I checked around and they have one in Heatmerchants €95. Can I just replace the old pump or do I need to have it commissioned?

Have you eliminated the solenoid? because if not and you replace the pump you will be back to square one. You will at least need a oil presure gauge, ideally it should be commissioned.

The link (Drive coupling) okeedorkee refers to will be visible when the pump is removed

DGOBS · 18-01-2012 10:51PM

I have only ever really come across worn couplings where the appliance is very old, or there is a pump issue causing excessive wear

chimmy chonga · 19-01-2012 09:57AM

okeedokee wrote: »

Are you sure the link from the motor to the pump is ok , they do get worn. Do you have a gauge to fit on the pump to check the pressure to make sure the pump is turning.

I don't have a gauge I thought that the pump would have been tested in the factory.
The plastic link is a bit floppy so I'd need a new one of those anyway. I've since found out that the burner is about fifteen years old and it doesn't look as though anyone has be at it in quite a long while.

chimmy chonga · 19-01-2012 09:59AM

DGOBS wrote: »

I have only ever really come across worn couplings where the appliance is very old, or there is a pump issue causing excessive wear

OK thanks - the burner is in an old house and I believe it's about fifteen years old.

DGOBS · 19-01-2012 11:10AM

At 15 years old, the wise move would be replace the burner (comes with a 1 year warranty) not just the pump

The pumps are preset in the factory, but have found plenty pre-set to 6.5bar!, and different appliances and fuels require different set pressures

chimmy chonga · 19-01-2012 07:06PM

DGOBS wrote: »

At 15 years old, the wise move would be replace the burner (comes with a 1 year warranty) not just the pump

The pumps are preset in the factory, but have found plenty pre-set to 6.5bar!, and different appliances and fuels require different set pressures

Yeah I agree, however due to overspending at Christmas I don't have the 3-400 for a new burner, I'm up to my goolies in debt just to have this place! Thanks for your help

okeedokee · 19-01-2012 07:59PM

Sometimes you can pick up 2 nd hand burners complete and serviced for 100 - 150 euro. Check some of the smaller companies that are upgrading boilers at the moment, you might pick one up that was replaced

okeedokee · 19-01-2012 08:02PM

chimmy chonga wrote: »

okeedokee wrote: »

Are you sure the link from the motor to the pump is ok , they do get worn. Do you have a gauge to fit on the pump to check the pressure to make sure the pump is turning.

I don't have a gauge I thought that the pump would have been tested in the factory.
The plastic link is a bit floppy so I'd need a new one of those anyway. I've since found out that the burner is about fifteen years old and it doesn't look as though anyone has be at it in quite a long while.

The reason for the gauge is to check the oil pressure, on mine I had no oil and the pressure was really high, pressure for kerosene is 8 - 10 bar

chimmy chonga · 19-01-2012 08:58PM

okeedokee wrote: »

Sometimes you can pick up 2 nd hand burners complete and serviced for 100 - 150 euro. Check some of the smaller companies that are upgrading boilers at the moment, you might pick one up that was replaced

Great idea! Can you suggest a place?

okeedokee · 19-01-2012 11:30PM

chimmy chonga wrote: »

okeedokee wrote: »

Sometimes you can pick up 2 nd hand burners complete and serviced for 100 - 150 euro. Check some of the smaller companies that are upgrading boilers at the moment, you might pick one up that was replaced

Great idea! Can you suggest a place?

Golden pages, don't know anyone direct. Try a fresh post specifically for a 2nd hand burner , you never know your luck

Billy Bunting · 19-01-2012 11:55PM

Try adverts.ie or donedeal.ie, remember! you will still need to commision it for your boiler. :eek:

chimmy chonga · 20-01-2012 10:01AM

okeedokee wrote: »

Golden pages, don't know anyone direct. Try a fresh post specifically for a 2nd hand burner , you never know your luck

Thanks !:)

chimmy chonga · 20-01-2012 10:02AM

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Try adverts.ie or donedeal.ie, remember! you will still need to commision it for your boiler. :eek:

Gotcha ! Thanks.....

chimmy chonga · 21-01-2012 02:18PM

I put a new pump in and it worked well – for about a minute. The burner clicked off and then back on again and kept doing this. There is fuel getting to the nozzle and I’m getting a spark. The vent at the side is opening so I presume the pump is doing it’s job. I checked the solenoid and it’s working.
I removed the photo cell and cleaned it and tried starting again without the cell and it made no difference. What else can I try?? Please…..

DGOBS · 21-01-2012 03:08PM

Sounds like its either incorrectly set (too much air?) or recycling flue gases, again with no pressure gauge your at nothing!

chimmy chonga · 21-01-2012 04:52PM

DGOBS wrote: »

Sounds like its either incorrectly set (too much air?) or recycling flue gases, again with no pressure gauge your at nothing!

I took the burner out of the boiler and switched it on (in an open garage space) and I get a good flame but it switches off after a couple of seconds starts again and stops and so on...

DGOBS · 21-01-2012 05:52PM

Again, this tells you nothing and a dangerous practice

.243 · 21-01-2012 09:07PM

chimmy chonga wrote: »

I took the burner out of the boiler and switched it on (in an open garage space) and I get a good flame but it switches off after a couple of seconds starts again and stops and so on...

open up the air intake another cpl of notches and see what happens

riello 40 oil pump problem

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