riello 40 oil pump problem

okeedokee

i cannot adjust the pump presssure. i have a gauge on and it flickers from 16 to 20 bar. no matter what way i adjust the screw there is no change. any ideas gladly welcome

DoneDL

Gauge might be on its way out but aiir in the oil pipe, drive coupling worn, bypass screw fited when it shouldn`t be, blocked filter. 16 or 20 bar is not welome on a domestic oil burner, its far, far too high.

Billy Bunting

okeedokee wrote: »

i cannot adjust the pump presssure. i have a gauge on and it flickers from 16 to 20 bar. no matter what way i adjust the screw there is no change. any ideas gladly welcome

Why did you want to adjust the oil pressure ?

okeedokee

thanks for the help, problem was air. turned the oil off ,fully drained the pump and lines then re-primed and burner fired up first time.

Micky Dolenz

okeedokee wrote: »

thanks for the help, problem was air. turned the oil off ,fully drained the pump and lines then re-primed and burner fired up first time.

Nice one,

And there was me changing the pump :P

DGOBS

Wildly fluctuating oil pressure is nearly always a sign of oil starvation, the gauge jumps about (assume you had tried turning it up, when it was jumping at so high a pressure) but would usually be more of partial blockage that air.

If in doubt, always fit a vacuum gauge (see they do have uses!!) and check to see if the pump is ok, and if you see a pressure generated on the vacuum, it's a fuel/filter/blockage (assuming the tank isn't below the pump level)

chimmy chonga

My Riello 40 pump works intermittently what can cause this? This happened over the Christmas so I took the pump off and checked the filter gave it a general clean re installed it and off she went. It kept going until I switched it off but when I tried to re start –nothing. Any ideas? I checked the fuel supply and all is wel, I’m getting a spark but the nozzle is dry.

Billy Bunting

It kept going until I switched it off but when I tried to re start –nothing.

Is the motor/pump actually running

DGOBS

Sounds like a pump or solenoid from the limited info given

chimmy chonga

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Is the motor/pump actually running

Yes the pump runs for about 5 seconds then lock out.

DGOBS

If solenoid is good, you have fuel, and blast tube remains dry (ie no fuel into chamber) then your pump is knackered

chimmy chonga

DGOBS wrote: »

If solenoid is good, you have fuel, and blast tube remains dry (ie no fuel into chamber) then your pump is knackered

I have to agree with you there - I checked around and they have one in Heatmerchants €95. Can I just replace the old pump or do I need to have it commissioned?

okeedokee

chimmy chonga wrote: »

DGOBS wrote: »

If solenoid is good, you have fuel, and blast tube remains dry (ie no fuel into chamber) then your pump is knackered

I have to agree with you there - I checked around and they have one in Heatmerchants €95. Can I just replace the old pump or do I need to have it commissioned?

Are you sure the link from the motor to the pump is ok , they do get worn. Do you have a gauge to fit on the pump to check the pressure to make sure the pump is turning.

Billy Bunting

chimmy chonga wrote: »

I have to agree with you there - I checked around and they have one in Heatmerchants €95. Can I just replace the old pump or do I need to have it commissioned?

Have you eliminated the solenoid? because if not and you replace the pump you will be back to square one. You will at least need a oil presure gauge, ideally it should be commissioned.

The link (Drive coupling) okeedorkee refers to will be visible when the pump is removed

DGOBS

I have only ever really come across worn couplings where the appliance is very old, or there is a pump issue causing excessive wear

chimmy chonga

okeedokee wrote: »

Are you sure the link from the motor to the pump is ok , they do get worn. Do you have a gauge to fit on the pump to check the pressure to make sure the pump is turning.

I don't have a gauge I thought that the pump would have been tested in the factory.
The plastic link is a bit floppy so I'd need a new one of those anyway. I've since found out that the burner is about fifteen years old and it doesn't look as though anyone has be at it in quite a long while.

chimmy chonga

DGOBS wrote: »

I have only ever really come across worn couplings where the appliance is very old, or there is a pump issue causing excessive wear

OK thanks - the burner is in an old house and I believe it's about fifteen years old.

DGOBS

At 15 years old, the wise move would be replace the burner (comes with a 1 year warranty) not just the pump

The pumps are preset in the factory, but have found plenty pre-set to 6.5bar!, and different appliances and fuels require different set pressures

chimmy chonga

DGOBS wrote: »

At 15 years old, the wise move would be replace the burner (comes with a 1 year warranty) not just the pump

The pumps are preset in the factory, but have found plenty pre-set to 6.5bar!, and different appliances and fuels require different set pressures

Yeah I agree, however due to overspending at Christmas I don't have the 3-400 for a new burner, I'm up to my goolies in debt just to have this place! Thanks for your help

okeedokee

Sometimes you can pick up 2 nd hand burners complete and serviced for 100 - 150 euro. Check some of the smaller companies that are upgrading boilers at the moment, you might pick one up that was replaced

okeedokee

chimmy chonga wrote: »

okeedokee wrote: »

Are you sure the link from the motor to the pump is ok , they do get worn. Do you have a gauge to fit on the pump to check the pressure to make sure the pump is turning.

I don't have a gauge I thought that the pump would have been tested in the factory.
The plastic link is a bit floppy so I'd need a new one of those anyway. I've since found out that the burner is about fifteen years old and it doesn't look as though anyone has be at it in quite a long while.

The reason for the gauge is to check the oil pressure, on mine I had no oil and the pressure was really high, pressure for kerosene is 8 - 10 bar

chimmy chonga

okeedokee wrote: »

Sometimes you can pick up 2 nd hand burners complete and serviced for 100 - 150 euro. Check some of the smaller companies that are upgrading boilers at the moment, you might pick one up that was replaced

Great idea! Can you suggest a place?

okeedokee

chimmy chonga wrote: »

okeedokee wrote: »

Sometimes you can pick up 2 nd hand burners complete and serviced for 100 - 150 euro. Check some of the smaller companies that are upgrading boilers at the moment, you might pick one up that was replaced

Great idea! Can you suggest a place?

Golden pages, don't know anyone direct. Try a fresh post specifically for a 2nd hand burner , you never know your luck

Billy Bunting

Try adverts.ie or donedeal.ie, remember! you will still need to commision it for your boiler. :eek:

chimmy chonga

okeedokee wrote: »

Golden pages, don't know anyone direct. Try a fresh post specifically for a 2nd hand burner , you never know your luck

Thanks !:)

chimmy chonga

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Try adverts.ie or donedeal.ie, remember! you will still need to commision it for your boiler. :eek:

Gotcha ! Thanks.....

chimmy chonga

I put a new pump in and it worked well – for about a minute. The burner clicked off and then back on again and kept doing this. There is fuel getting to the nozzle and I’m getting a spark. The vent at the side is opening so I presume the pump is doing it’s job. I checked the solenoid and it’s working.
I removed the photo cell and cleaned it and tried starting again without the cell and it made no difference. What else can I try?? Please…..

DGOBS

Sounds like its either incorrectly set (too much air?) or recycling flue gases, again with no pressure gauge your at nothing!

chimmy chonga

DGOBS wrote: »

Sounds like its either incorrectly set (too much air?) or recycling flue gases, again with no pressure gauge your at nothing!

I took the burner out of the boiler and switched it on (in an open garage space) and I get a good flame but it switches off after a couple of seconds starts again and stops and so on...

DGOBS

Again, this tells you nothing and a dangerous practice

.243

chimmy chonga wrote: »

I took the burner out of the boiler and switched it on (in an open garage space) and I get a good flame but it switches off after a couple of seconds starts again and stops and so on...

open up the air intake another cpl of notches and see what happens

chimmy chonga

.243 wrote: »

open up the air intake another cpl of notches and see what happens

I opened the air intake a couple of notches and nothing happened. I then closed it a couple of notches and she started I tried going back a notch and she tripped again. So I left it at just one notch and it's been running now for over an hour just stopping once for a second or so and starting again. Can I leave it at that ? Thanks for your help you're a genius.

Billy Bunting

chimmy chonga wrote: »

I opened the air intake a couple of notches and nothing happened. I then closed it a couple of notches and she started I tried going back a notch and she tripped again. So I left it at just one notch and it's been running now for over an hour just stopping once for a second or so and starting again. Can I leave it at that ? Thanks for your help you're a genius.

You really are living dangerously, it may be working now but that could all change with the weather, you have no idea of the CO levels its emitting nor its efficiency levels, do yourself a favour and get in your local Oftec man to commission it correctly.

chimmy chonga

Billy Bunting wrote: »

You really are living dangerously, it may be working now but that could all change with the weather, you have no idea of the CO levels its emitting nor its efficiency levels, do yourself a favour and get in your local Oftec man to commission it correctly.

I think you are right ! I've gone as far as I can go. Thanks

DGOBS

Just book a service, you've done most of the work, even clean out the boiler and have someone come in a set it up for you.

Sounds like the cycling off for a second is either an air setting, or where the burner mounts to the boiler is leaking flue gas and being recycled (collapsing the flame)

chimmy chonga

DGOBS wrote: »

Just book a service, you've done most of the work, even clean out the boiler and have someone come in a set it up for you.

Sounds like the cycling off for a second is either an air setting, or where the burner mounts to the boiler is leaking flue gas and being recycled (collapsing the flame)

Thanks for your help!

chimmy chonga

DGOBS wrote: »

.... where the burner mounts to the boiler is leaking flue gas and being recycled (collapsing the flame)

Spot on! That was exactly the problem. Replaced the flange gasket, called in the experts and had a gas flue analysis done and all is hunky dory - Cheers:)