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How to service your car

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭Captain Slow IRL


    Depending on the setup, it may be possible. If you are dismantling macpherson struts, the compression tool has to be used - it's a dangerous job even with the tool and something I wouldn't advise you to do if you're unsure.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 174 ✭✭gar_29


    brilliant thread, thanks to everyone who's posted advice...

    just a quick question;

    when you leave your car in for a service, is there not, i dunno, some tuning up or anything they do? is it "just" the oil, filters, maybe brakes? if that's it, i'd defo give it a try!


  • Registered Users Posts: 264 ✭✭getcover


    Thanks for all the advice here.
    How diifficult would it be to change the oil in my Volvo S40, in my own driveway?
    Would I need to park the car over one of those pits for this?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭Volvoboy


    getcover wrote: »
    Thanks for all the advice here.
    How diifficult would it be to change the oil in my Volvo S40, in my own driveway?
    Would I need to park the car over one of those pits for this?

    No you wouldnt need a pit, just jack up the car and put a stand under it also, locate the oil sump nut and filter screw it off and drain the oil, when its finished renew the oil filter and tighten up the sump and filter, put her back down on all four wheels and replace the oil.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,100 ✭✭✭whitelightrider


    Guys I have a 07 Passat thats in need of a service. Im seriously thinking of giving this a go. But when it comes around to selling the car (not that Ill be doing it anytime soon) would you not need a service history?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,714 ✭✭✭no1beemerfan


    Guys I have a 07 Passat thats in need of a service. Im seriously thinking of giving this a go. But when it comes around to selling the car (not that Ill be doing it anytime soon) would you not need a service history?

    Keep the invoices AND MAKE SURE you get the right oil. DO NOT skimp on the oil!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭Kid Nothing


    Guys I have a 07 Passat thats in need of a service. Im seriously thinking of giving this a go. But when it comes around to selling the car (not that Ill be doing it anytime soon) would you not need a service history?

    Think about it yourself, if you were buying a car privately and the guy told you he'd been servicing it for the last few years himself, hoe confident would you be?!!!

    Having said that if you're not intending on selling soon, give it a shot but i'd 100% recommend still bringing the car to a garage at some stage to check out brakes, run diagnostics, etc if you want to keep the car in decent nick.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 589 ✭✭✭danjo


    Just came across this thread. Very good information here.
    Thought the link below might be useful as an indicator of things that need to be checked regularly.

    http://www.bmw-planet.com/2009/03/01/faq-what-is-done-during-inspection/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Guys I have a 07 Passat thats in need of a service. Im seriously thinking of giving this a go. But when it comes around to selling the car (not that Ill be doing it anytime soon) would you not need a service history?

    Just a note to say they usually have a engine cover underneath those passat's. There's a couple of screws holding them on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,496 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    Guys I have a 07 Passat thats in need of a service. Im seriously thinking of giving this a go. But when it comes around to selling the car (not that Ill be doing it anytime soon) would you not need a service history?
    Have a look at this thread. It's for a diesel, but has good pics and might give you some pointers. As others have said, get the correct oil!

    Not your ornery onager



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    Volvoboy wrote: »
    No you wouldnt need a pit, just jack up the car and put a stand under it also, locate the oil sump nut and filter screw it off and drain the oil, when its finished renew the oil filter and tighten up the sump and filter, put her back down on all four wheels and replace the oil.


    I have done this job on alot of cars before so I could nearly do it in my sleep. I dont buy an oil filter wrench when I can use a large hose clip around it and tighten it and then hit the screw thread screw with a screwdriver.I dont put a screwdriver through the filter because 1 it makes a mess and 2 if the filter is the wrong one the old one can be replaced temporarly. Bit tight like that:P.One thing tho is if you are jacking up the car and open the sump it is best to leave the car down off the jack while the oil is been drained cause otherwise the car wouldnt be level and you might not drain all of the oil.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,031 ✭✭✭nogoodnamesleft


    jimmyw wrote: »
    I have done this job on alot of cars before so I could nearly do it in my sleep. I dont buy an oil filter wrench when I can use a large hose clip around it and tighten it and then hit the screw thread screw with a screwdriver.I dont put a screwdriver through the filter because 1 it makes a mess and 2 if the filter is the wrong one the old one can be replaced temporarly. Bit tight like that:P.One thing tho is if you are jacking up the car and open the sump it is best to leave the car down off the jack while the oil is been drained cause otherwise the car wouldnt be level and you might not drain all of the oil.

    Thats fine for metal oil filters however a lot of the cars on the market are now using paper oil fiters in order to reduce waste. The oil filter housing cover is a screwtop and made of plastic. Using a strap wrench is only asking for trouble as the strap wrench will invariably slip and you run the risk of the plastic over cracking if you squeze it too tight.


    I would always prefer to have the proper tool for the job rather than damage something or cause personal injury.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    Thats fine for metal oil filters however a lot of the cars on the market are now using paper oil fiters in order to reduce waste. The oil filter housing cover is a screwtop and made of plastic. Using a strap wrench is only asking for trouble as the strap wrench will invariably slip and you run the risk of the plastic over cracking if you squeze it too tight.


    I would always prefer to have the proper tool for the job rather than damage something or cause personal injury.

    Oh absolutely. I was just talking a bit of tongue in cheek:P. I have not come across the newer type but can imagine how a wrench might damage it alright. How are you supposed to remove them new ones as a matter of interest.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,496 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    ^ I think there's usually a long bolt running through the lid to the base of the filter housing. Same idea as the older Mercedes-Benz engines. Piece of cake to change those! :D

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    esel wrote: »
    ^ I think there's usually a long bolt running through the lid to the base of the filter housing. Same idea as the older Mercedes-Benz engines. Piece of cake to change those! :D

    Must be something similar to the older style ones that was on old tractors then:cool: cheers!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,031 ✭✭✭nogoodnamesleft


    jimmyw wrote: »
    Oh absolutely. I was just talking a bit of tongue in cheek:P. I have not come across the newer type but can imagine how a wrench might damage it alright. How are you supposed to remove them new ones as a matter of interest.

    I wrote this thread not so long ago. http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055757452

    There is pics in the thread of the oilfilter wrench i picked up off ebay especially for this purpose.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,915 ✭✭✭GTE


    the pic were ya turned the bottle into a funnel, i looks like ya cut the bottle with the grinder... a bit overkill dont ya think ;)

    Nice job VB. good to see it in pics

    Sure if you have it use it haha.


    Great write up. Im determined to do mini services like that by myself. I may get some axel stands once I get some money in. See how im positive there? "one I get money in" . . . :o

    Great post!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,915 ✭✭✭GTE


    Guys I have a 07 Passat thats in need of a service. Im seriously thinking of giving this a go. But when it comes around to selling the car (not that Ill be doing it anytime soon) would you not need a service history?

    Oh dear god, I agree with the poster who said use the right oil!
    Its the #1 cause of problems with the TDI engine. Im not familiar with the petrol at all but make sure you use the right spec oil if you want to sell it on or want the engine to last.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭greglo23


    Here's a handy online Oil Advisor from Millers Oils.

    http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_AUTO_WHICH_ENGINE_OIL.htm

    As bbk said above the oil spec is especially important for the PD engine as using the wrong oil will wear the cams which drive the injectors.

    A few people have referred to driving a screwdriver through the oil-filter. This is a very dodgy thing to do as you can damage the threads on the block if you have a very long threaded tube which the filter screws onto. A good filter removal tool is a great investment which will more than pay for itself over time.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    Also, if you fail to get the filter off you are screwed


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,881 ✭✭✭mle1324


    Nicely done VB :).

    Ive only started to do the basic standard service stuff very recently and find it very easy,and have being thought just the way you demonstrated.
    The 7up bottle idea is cool,its a pain when you spil a bit of oil.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,399 ✭✭✭Bonito


    I only have one question. Anybody know where the fuel filter and pollen filter are on a 02 Impreza RX and how often would they need to be changed?

    Also would anyone suggest changing the oil in the rear diff at every service? I know how to do it and what oil to use just don't know how often if even it needs to be done? Surely the more I change the oil in it the better?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭Tonto86


    Fuel Filter

    Pollen Filter (scroll down for instructions)

    as for the driff, I do 30k a year and change it once a year


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    I have got premission from the author to link to this 'how to'. Hopefully it will be of use to the members here. This job was done on a mk1 focus and thanks goes to Liam from Fordfocusworld.com .

    Front pads and discs renewal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Hal1 wrote: »
    I have got premission from the author to link to this 'how to'. Hopefully it will be of use to the members here. This job was done on a mk1 focus and thanks goes to Liam from Fordfocusworld.com .

    Front pads and discs renewal.

    I edited the link as it had changed on the site. Bump for this thread too. :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,104 ✭✭✭Swampy


    Brilliant thread. Definitely going to try and do some myself soon.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 Omega1987


    I'm considering servicing my avensis, a 2.0 TDi, and was wondering is there's anything I need to know? I realise I need to have the right oil for these types of engines, but asides from that, should I expect any bother with the oil/fuel filters?

    Also, I read through the posts and I noticed that no-one has commented on handbrake tightening. Can anyone provide a rough guide to doing this, as my handbrake is quite loose at the moment and needs a good tightening. Also, is there a way to cehck if I need to have the cables replaced, and is this a job that's as simple as changing the oil?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Omega1987 wrote: »
    I'm considering servicing my avensis, a 2.0 TDi, and was wondering is there's anything I need to know? I realise I need to have the right oil for these types of engines, but asides from that, should I expect any bother with the oil/fuel filters?

    Also, I read through the posts and I noticed that no-one has commented on handbrake tightening. Can anyone provide a rough guide to doing this, as my handbrake is quite loose at the moment and needs a good tightening. Also, is there a way to cehck if I need to have the cables replaced, and is this a job that's as simple as changing the oil?


    For the avensis, from memory, there should be an adjustment screw under the handbrake lever itself, usually a 10mm accessed by lifting the rubbery handbrake gaitor.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Continuing on from the previous info people have posted in this thread I thought I would do a photographic run through of what a full service in an independant garage consists(read should consist) of.(yes work was a little quiet for once today:P)

    It might give you some pointers as to other relitavely straight forward things that people may not think of checking if they are doing their own car at home.

    I admit that some things are much simpler on a lift but you'll get the idea...hopefully:D


    Vehicle is a 2005 Ford Focus 1.4 with 72k on it.


    The first step is a test drive, this shows up any driving/handling/noises etc that may be present, not really relevent if you servicing your own car of course.

    Back in the garage and start with the external checks,

    So lights,
    DSCF1420.jpg
    DSCF1421.jpg

    Check the light alignment,
    DSCF1422.jpg

    Check the wipers, both an inspection for torn/cracked blades and for streaks and poor clearing of the winscreen, Also test the washers work and spray correctly on the windows.
    DSCF1427.jpg


    Next, a check under the bonnet for levels and fluid condition etc,

    Power steering fluid, was overfilled on this car so some was removed.
    DSCF1428.jpg

    Brake fluid level and boiling point checked. Most manufacturers specify that the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years.
    DSCF1429.jpg

    Coolant level and strength checked, the lower the coolant ratio, the less freeze protection the car will have,
    DSCF1430.jpg

    Also check the auxiliary belts for fraying, cracks or other damage,
    DSCF1431.jpg

    ........


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Next, with the car raised, or on axle stands,

    Check CV boots, Inner and outer as well as steering rack boots.
    DSCF1434.jpg

    This car had grease leaking from the inner CV boots which required two new retaining clips,
    DSCF1436.jpg
    DSCF1435-1.jpg

    Anti roll bar links, checking for damaged rubber boots, leaking grease, or play in the link joints,
    DSCF1437.jpg
    DSCF1439.jpg

    Suspension arm bushes etc, again checking for cracking, excess play etc,
    DSCF1441.jpg
    DSCF1440.jpg


    Also checking the exhaust system for corrosion, leaks at the joints, worn or damaged mounting rubbers etc,
    DSCF1438.jpg


    Then remove the wheels and inspect the tyres for wear, damage etc

    Front tyres in this case are only just above the safety limit, although well above the legal limit,
    DSCF1443.jpg

    However there is signs of misalignment on the inside edge(right in the pic)
    DSCF1444.jpg

    A rear tyre was found to be badly cracked/perished,
    DSCF1446.jpg

    The age of the tyre is likely to blame, 6 years is the recognised age limit for tyres before deterioration of the rubber and steel belts etc sets in. Manufacting date of the cracked tyres is feb 05(0805 = week 8, 2005),
    DSCF1447.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Onto the brakes next,

    Measure the disks and pads against manufaturer minimum tolerances.

    Front disks were worn slightly below minumim, mimimum for this car is 23mm,
    DSCF1448.jpg

    The pads were still above the minimum(2mm) so in this case the customer is advised that they will need replacing before the bext service and given the option to have them done now.
    DSCF1449.jpg

    On the rear, drum brakes fitted to this car so remove the drums and check the brake shoes for uneven wear, cracked friction material and remaining thickness,
    DSCF1450.jpg

    Check cylinders for leaks, early leakage is often contained within the seals so always check the seals as in the pic,
    DSCF1451.jpg

    Finally check the drum condition, wear, scoring etc,
    DSCF1452.jpg

    Then check the brake lines for damage, cracks, corrosion on the fittings and steel pipes, Bend the brake line where it joins the steel fitting to check for cracks,
    DSCF1453.jpg
    DSCF1454.jpg

    A visual check of the shocks and springs for damage, leaks and torn bumpstops/dust shields,
    DSCF1456.jpg
    DSCF1457.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Now the engine service itself,

    The air filter, as on most cars, is straight forward enough, 6 torx head screws,
    DSCF1459.jpg

    Spark plug recess showing the very common corrosion problem that focus's(foci?) suffer from,
    DSCF1458.jpg

    One of the reasons for the focus often suffering misfires, Rusted/damaged plugs due to the water ingress above,
    DSCF1460.jpg

    Checking and setting the spark plug gap before fitting,
    DSCF1461.jpg

    Draining the oil, it can be a good tip to run the engine for a few moments(not up to full temperature) as this will make the oil flow easier,
    DSCF1464.jpg

    Remove the oil filter, made much easier with the correct tool, they are cheap from Halfords,
    DSCF1465.jpg

    Fit the new filter, always put new oil on the seal and check that the old seal has come off with the old filter,
    DSCF1466.jpg

    Clean off the excess oil, customers don't like oil drops on their drive!
    DSCF1467.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    The final items, admittadly most of which can't be carried out at home,

    Diagnostic check of all systems,
    DSCF1469.jpg

    Wheel alignment check, confirms the evidence seen earlier on the tyre,
    DSCF1471.jpg
    DSCF1472.jpg


    And to finish, stamp the service book....This car has no history aside from its first service so its stamped at year 6(service 6).
    DSCF1470.jpg


    :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭I Was VB


    Nice few additions to my original post. A two post lift certainly takes the hardship of crawling under cars on the ground!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,707 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Focus looks very rusty for a 6 year old car. UK import?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,487 ✭✭✭franksm


    Excellent - love the pics.

    Pity about the rust indeed - my MX5 (Belfast-bound most of the time) suffers rotten sills and rear wheel arches.

    Interesting about the brake fluid needing changed every two years - I am betting it doesn't get done on most cars, which is a pity as it's such an easy job. Have just done it on the MX5 and the girlfriend's A4 - it makes quite a difference, and that's with fluid that's only two and a bit years old. Funnily enough,

    I have never managed to get the various 'one man brake bleeding kits' ever to work properly. They either induce bubbles (the pressurised versions) or else the rubber pipe always pops off the bleed-nipple. Never had any issues doing it the 'two people' way


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    unkel wrote: »
    Focus looks very rusty for a 6 year old car. UK import?

    The corrosion in the spark plug recess is a common problem with the focus, they suffer both leaking freeze plugs in the head and water ingress from the top as there is no plug cover fitted.

    The surface corrosion on the suspension arms etc is normal TBH..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,375 ✭✭✭Tefral


    I'd like to point out that Although I have never met Nissan Doctor, he is obviously a mechanic that takes pride in his work.

    The attention to detail by checking and tapping the plugs backs this up. This almost never happens by mechanics. They just fire the recommended plug in. What most people don't know. That model number plug could be used in ten different cars and every one should be gapped to th manufacturers specs especially with a ford focus because they have soft coil packs and this causes them to be damaged.

    Well done.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    cronin_j wrote: »
    I'd like to point out that Although I have never met Nissan Doctor, he is obviously a mechanic that takes pride in his work.

    The attention to detail by checking and tapping the plugs backs this up. This almost never happens by mechanics. They just fire the recommended plug in. What most people don't know. That model number plug could be used in ten different cars and every one should be gapped to th manufacturers specs especially with a ford focus because they have soft coil packs and this causes them to be damaged.

    Well done.


    Many thanks,:)

    TBH gapping plugs is alot more important then most realise. The gap effects the strength of the spark and the temperature it burns at, if this is wrong, you will have less efficient fuel combustion, higher emmissions, more deposit build up which will further reduce economy as well as foul the plugs themselves and effect the cat performance too.

    Its something that takes about 10 seconds before you fit the plugs and yet, as you say, almost no-one does it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,704 ✭✭✭Doylers


    Hi everyone, dont know if this has been asked before, im looking to service my fiesta for the first time. How do I get under the car safely while also having some room to see what im doing? I do have the cars jack.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Doylers wrote: »
    Hi everyone, dont know if this has been asked before, im looking to service my fiesta for the first time. How do I get under the car safely while also having some room to see what im doing? I do have the cars jack.

    The cars jack is really just for emergencies.


    You really need a trolly jack and axle stands to work under a car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,704 ✭✭✭Doylers


    The cars jack is really just for emergencies.


    You really need a trolly jack and axle stands to work under a car.

    Is there anyone that rents them out for a day that you know?? I'm in Waterford. Thanks:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Doylers wrote: »
    Is there anyone that rents them out for a day that you know?? I'm in Waterford. Thanks:D

    There wouldn't really be a market to rent out something so cheap and basic.

    If your anywhere near a halfords you could get youself a jack and stands for easily less then €100 I'd say.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,574 ✭✭✭Padraig Mor


    Doylers wrote: »
    Is there anyone that rents them out for a day that you know?? I'm in Waterford. Thanks:D

    Halfords do a kit with trolley jack, axle stands, chocks and creeper for €65. One DIY service will cover the cost!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,375 ✭✭✭Tefral


    Halfords do a kit with trolley jack, axle stands, chocks and creeper for €65. One DIY service will cover the cost!

    While in there id also recommend getting this: http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_173083_langId_-1_categoryId_212410cm_cr=No+Campaign-_-Web+Activity-_-07-MAR11-WORKSHOP-M-1-_-PRODCAT_ESPOTMAIN_212375-_-07-MAR11-WORKSHOP-M-1

    Comes with their lifetime warranty, you break even one and they'll replace it. I have a couple of their tools after being recommended them, they have stood up to awful punishment. Remember its only their "Advanced" tools are the ones to buy. That kit linked above is well worth the price.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,704 ✭✭✭Doylers


    Halfords do a kit with trolley jack, axle stands, chocks and creeper for €65. One DIY service will cover the cost!

    Was just about to post the exact same link:D Thats a really nice kit for the job. All i need to do now is save up to buy the kit because im broke as **** hence why I want to service the car myself :p


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    LIGHTNING wrote: »
    Nissan Doctor, can you do emissions and electrical timing? Its the two things I cant really do at home to my 924. Its about a simple anengine as you can get but I dont have the gear?


    Unfortunatly we don't have the emmissions testing gear in my garage although its on my list of equipment I want to get in. Cost versus usage etc etc:rolleyes:

    If by electrical timing you mean setting the timing with timing light etc then yes I can do that no problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,707 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Halfords do a kit with trolley jack, axle stands, chocks and creeper for €65. One DIY service will cover the cost!

    Got myself that kit a few weeks ago. Very good value for money. The car on the axle stands (under the jackpoints in the sills) was rock solid.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,707 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Doylers wrote: »
    How do I get under the car safely while also having some room to see what im doing? I do have the cars jack.

    Never go under the car with the cars jack. EVER!!! Don't even do it with a big jack trolley. A man was killed in this country a few days ago doing that :(

    Use axle stands and other precautions too if you have them (trolley jack as backup, wheels, wood, etc.)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,260 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    unkel wrote: »
    Never go under the car with the cars jack. EVER!!! Don't even do it with a big jack trolley. A man was killed in this country a few days ago doing that :(

    Use axle stands and other precautions too if you have them (trolley jack as backup, wheels, wood, etc.)

    I can't understand why anyone would do it. You'd want to be off yer rocker in this day and age to get under a car without axle stands, and yet a wally over the road from me does it every week.:eek:

    NissanDoctor, do you just set the distance on the plugs with the tip of a hammer, down to the feeler gauge?


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