Camaro or Skyline

Just saw the Camaro interior and I felt ill.

Skyline would be my choice.

Out of those 2 choices I would go for the Skyline - and that's coming from a Muscle Car owner! If you really want a Camaro or other American Car buy '68-'79 - after that they went to sh1te in both style and performance.

It would have to be the skyline!! That model Camaro is rotten!!

Another vote for the Skyline here

itarumaa wrote: »

This one never crossed to my mind, thanks.

Is this one 3.0l V6 Non-turbo?

No V formation engine in the Supras. Its an inline 6 cylinder engine. And as the one that was linked is so cheap im guessing its non turbo.

itarumaa wrote: »

Second option would be:
http://www.carzone.ie/search/Nissan/Skyline/GTS-T-TY/200841190372900/advert?channel=CARS

Nice car, looks clean, 2.5l turbo, rhd. I have driven r34 Skyline GT and it is a nice car.

That's a r33 GTS-T thar. Incase you missed it

Skyline hands down tbh. You could always drop in a RB26DETT off of a GTR if you wanted more power...

Camaro is an anemic turd. Even over here they get laughed at. Very little show and feck all go.
Skyline or Supra all the way.

challengemaster wrote: »

That's a r33 GTS-T thar. Incase you missed it

Skyline hands down tbh. You could always drop in a RB26DETT off of a GTR if you wanted more power...

No need to drop rb26dett in to skyline to make it good, my gtst rb25det got 400hp, more then enought.

You dont need to be GTR to be a skyline is a golden rule, theres tons of 400-500hp rb25det's

On topic: Skyline ofc, but thats not becouse i own skyline and love them. I would LOVE and american muscle car for weakends, but these camaros are just worst thing about muscle cars.

If you really want a class muscle car, get american V8 older stuff.

As for skylines, those are prety reliable things, will go as a tank. My ones goes like a tank for half year, only changed oil in it, and i drive to work daily. The only problem i got with it, as i jumped in to huge pothole and now i get small banging noise sometimes out of steering on low speeds. So basicly my own foult...

There's plenty of different type of Supra specifications so you should look up a bit more about them if your considering one.

There is Jap spec and Uk spec models.

Jap come as n/a and twin turbo. Have the options of auto/tiptronic/5 and 6 speed manual boxes.
Pre 96.5 n/a's come with 5 speed boxes. Post 96.5 to 98 are speed if manual. All have the same auto box if going auto. 98 on come with a tiptronic also.

The uk spec were only made from 94 til 96 I think. They were available with a 6 speed or automatic box Nothing else.

The most desirable model is the uk spec 6 speed twin turbo for enthusiasts in the uk. The car generally will have better service history etc than a grey import. Dependent on who imported the car it may not necessarily be the case. There's one or two guys in the uk who have reputations in bringing in the top spec Supra's from Japan. Jm-Imports is one that springs to mind, he trades on the mkiv supra owners club and has a fantastic reputation on there.

The auto box is a decent one, it has a manumatic mode that offers more feel than the regular manumatic modes on some other cars I have driven, it won't replace the feeling of a manual but it does for a very comfy cruiser if that whats on the agenda. A Skyline generally will handle better than a Supra in the twisties, certainly a 4wd gtr will. Supra's are small money these days to buy but certainly are not cheap to run/maintain. If you can afford that aspect then I'd choose a twin turbo Supra over any gtst/gtt assuming similar budgets similar spec etc. Having been in both the skyline doesn't give the same sense of enjoyment to me.

The R33 GTR and R34 GTR I have been in and driven, the R34 for me was a fantastic experience, luckily I drove one that 550bhp and one that is nearly 700bhp. The 33 gtr was closer to standard not sure of power figures and I'd be hesitant to be able to pick a clear winner between a tt supra and a 33 gtr.

34 Gtr for me would be the pick of the bunch. Havent driven a 32 yet so can't comment. Haven't a bulls notion about camaro's so won't comment .

If your looking for some more info on Supras go to mkivsupra.net
Skylines go to skylineowners.com

Regards
Mark

Skyline hands down from the two choices listed. Supra TT would be the winner for me though.

itarumaa wrote: »

I have deciced to forgot Camaro for the reasons mentioned here. That V6 engine is quite pointless for me.

I was also considering briefly Subaru Impreza WRX but I think my main interests are now either Supra 3.0l auto or that r33 Skyline.

My friend actually checked the Skyline today and he said that is really clean and since he drives Skyline himself, I think he knows something at least:)

For the Supra, it still interest me, a nice, sporty cruiser a bit like Camaro would be with decent engine.

I think I have to go and see the Supra as well and start to think over this.

Thanks all the advice so far and keep them coming:)

Supraman: How do I know the difference between UK and JapSpec Supra?

face palm, don't get an auto....

The SZ-R is the base model.
NA engine, 5 or 6 speed manual gearbox only, and a limited range of optional extras.
The SZ is the top-spec NA hardtop model.
NA engine, auto, 5 or 6 speed manual gearbox, a few more options.
The SZ-R Aerotop is the only NA Aerotop model.
NA engine, auto only, a few more options.
(So the SZ has more standard fittings than the SZ-R, but the SZ-R Aerotop has the same
fittings as the SZ)
The 'original' RZ is the entry-level TT model.
TT engine, auto or 6-speed manual, limited range of optional extras.
The RZ-S replaces the RZ as the entry-level TT model.
TT engine, auto or 6-speed manual, limited range of options.
The 'new' RZ is the middle spec TT version.
TT engine, 6 speed manual only, a few more options.
The GZ (inc. Aerotop) is the top-spec TT model.
TT engine, auto only, some options fitted as standard.
(When the GZ stopped production the RZ became the top spec model.)


Common problems.

Toyota has an enviable reputation for reliability and the Supra is no exception. The engine
is absolutely bullet proof; easily able to take enormous power increases without major
modification.

Both the auto and manual gearboxes are also robust units, as is the
transmission. Turbos are generally reliable, again able to withstand higher boosting without
significantly shortening their lifespan.

So what does go wrong?
Valve stem seals are the most common fault. These tend to start leaking around the 10
year or 80,000 mile mark and a puff of blue smoke on start-up or with a blip of the throttle
is the most common sign. While the seals themselves aren’t expensive the labour is, and
this isn’t really a job for the DIY-er. Expect to pay at least £400 for replacement.
Turbo seals are another item that can require replacing at around the same time.
Unfortunately again the seals themselves are relatively cheap but it’s the labour that puts
the cost up, and removing the turbos is a job that can at best be described as ‘difficult’.
The turbos themselves can go of course, and typically it’s No.1 turbo that goes first.

As above, labour costs will be high, and the turbos themselves won’t be cheap. It’s tricky to
put a price on the cost of turbos since prices vary considerably. Forget about buying new
ones from Toyota (way too much) and instead consider second-hand or after market
turbos. Many people take the option to ‘go single’ when turbo seals or turbos need
replacing, although obviously this is considerably more outlay. Turbo life is unpredictable –
some let go on stock boost well before 100,000 miles, while others will happily take more
boost for 150,000. Generally Supra turbos have a good lifespan compared to other
turbocharged cars. Turbo replacement couldn’t really be described as a ‘common’ fault on
Supras.
Heater matrix replacement is probably the worst job from a labour point of view and it has
to be said a piece of poor design on the Supra. If your heater stops working and the matrix
needs replacing then the entire dashboard needs to be removed. That’s not just the panels
you can see around the steering wheel, it’s that entire front section, from side window to
side window. One Supra specialist told me ‘I usually charge £1000 in the hope that it will
put them off, it’s a terrible job’. Again though this isn’t a common Supra fault, it’s just a
nightmare job if it needs doing.
Other than that most other faults are minor and easier to fix. The right hand warning lights
on the dashboard can stop working, electric aerials conk out, the auto selection lights
behind the dashboard can blow bulbs, engine hoses can pop off – all faults that have been
seen quite a few times over the years, but all easy to fix. Many Supras are past 100,000
miles now, a few are over twice that. Despite being a performance car it’s still a Toyota at
the end of the day. When things do go wrong there's loads of 'how to' information around,
as most of the common modifications and fixes have been carried out and refined over
time.