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Care sheets--Post any animal related care sheets here..

  • 25-03-2003 3:50pm
    #1
    Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,822 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Ok heres a care sheet for my two tarantulas.If any one else wants to make a care sheet Ill sticky it here.
    Richie.




    Tarantula Keeping.

    Ok so you want to own a Tarantula!!!!!
    Well here is some vital information that you should know BEFORE you buy your first one.


    TYPES OF TARANTULAS
    Tarantulas are categorised into 3 distinct types, Opportunistic burrowers, obligate burrowers and arboreal. And these are then sub-categorised into new world (Americas) and Old world (Africa/Asia). So you can have a New World burrower and an Old world Arboreal etc. This account of Tarantula keeping concentrates on new world species, as the Old World species are extremely aggressive and in my opinion should not be kept as pets or even at that as a look but dont touch pet.

    Opportunistic burrowers: These are Tarantulas that will use a hide of some sort in which they spend most of their time rather than dig their own burrow. These are probably the easiest to keep for a beginner as they don’t really have any special housing requirements-An upturned plant pot makes an ideal home for them. Members of this species include Mexican red knee (Brachypelma Smithi) and Goliath Bird eater (Theraposa Blondi—which is NOT recommended for beginners.

    Obligate burrowers: These Tarantulas need to build their own retreat, preferably by digging a burrow. Because of this be prepared to never see your Tarantula for months on end. Some of them dig burrows with intricate networks of tunnels. Species include the stunning looking Cobalt blue (Halpopelma Minax---Very aggressive).

    Arboreal: These are Tarantulas, which live “off the ground” which can mean on trees, plants, and even peoples dwellings. They have even been known to live in the eaves of houses. Some of them will never touch the ground throughout their lives. These are also fairly easy to keep as they build very strong tube-shaped webs to live in, the only problem being that you have to have a cage, which opens from the side/top as they always build at the tops of their cage. Species include Pink toes (Avicularia Avicularia—extremely docile) and the venomous Poecilotheria species, which are from India and have been known to kill healthy adults**Edit**I cant find one single case of a death from a bite from one of these species so Im editing this.

    Housing: Any container, which is escape proof and can be ventilated, is suitable for a Tarantula. The general rule is that the container should be twice the leg span long and one and a half the leg span high in the case of ground dwellers and no height limit for Arboreal. The reason for this is because some enthusiasts believe that the tarantula would not find its food in a container that is too large for it.

    Personally I put my first Tarantula in an old aquarium 12Lx9Wx8H on the day I got it. It has grown to almost 6-inch leg span now from the 2 inch that it was. It never had problems finding its food. My arboreal is the same-I put it into a purpose built container 24Hx12Lx12W and it has no problems finding its food.

    In the wild a tarantula can roam for miles every day so again in my opinion this cage restriction seems to be a myth.
    The cage also needs a bedding which will retain moisture as most Tarantulas need a relative humidity of greater than 50% and some of the rainforest species need anything up to 95%.

    This poses its own problems as in this type of environment, moulds and mites flourish which can kill a tarantula. Then there are some which need high humidity and high ventilation which is definitely a challenge as the rule is more ventilation = less humidity.

    The ideal bedding Ive found is vermiculite which is an expanded volcanic soil. It retains moisture well and discourages mould growth. And since you only clean a Tarantulas cage once a year the vermiculite is ideal for maintaining a clean environment for the Tarantula.

    So to sum up—If you want a ground dweller any container that is see through, secure and easy to drill holes in for ventilation is ideal. With arboreals the same container is also ideal if you can find a way to open it from the front or side. Even Tupperware containers are suitable for housing Tarantulas in.

    Heating : With these cold Irish winters we get most Tarantulas need supplementary heating. I keep mine in a garage which is not connected to the houses heating system so heating is definitely an issue for me. Most of the New world tarantulas can do quite ok if kept indoors in a house and the ideal temperatures are between 20-25 centigrade during the day and anywhere from 5-15 at night. The Chile rose Tarantula can even live in sub zero temperatures at night for a few nights at a time.

    Most people use heat mats which Ive personally found to be totally useless. Heat mats work by infra-red(which do not heat the air) which raises the ambient temperature by only a few degrees.So if say your house was at 15 centigrade then the heat mat would get the Tarantulas enclosure up to that ideal 20 degrees whereas in my situation the temperature in the garage was 3-7 degrees and the heat mat would only raise the temperatures to 12-15 which was still too cold.

    How did I get around this???
    I use 25 watt red bulbs which heat the air in the enclosures.I experimented with different wattages and found that anywhere from 15-25 watt work for me in all types of weather.So even on a night where its minus 5 degrees the enclosures air temps are still at 15 degrees.The bulbs are red because spiders cant see red light and will act totally natural under this kind of light.

    Feeding : I feed my tarantulas on pet shop bought crickets and locusts(for the Pinktoe as locusts can climb up glass)The crickets are €4.00 per 20 and the locusts are €5.00 per 6.This may sound a lot but 20 crickets will feed my Brazil black for a month and 6 locust will feed my pinktoe for a month or more.Usually a tarantula should be fed twice a week but again here I go against “normal” procedeure.I drop in a cricket every morning and if its not gone in the evening I take it out and try again next day—the reason its taken out is because crickets will nibble on a tarantula if it goes into moult and will possibly kill it.With the pink toe I leave the locust I will leave the locust there until its gone as locusts are not known to nibble on tarantulas which are moulting.

    Moulting: Tarantulas have whats called an exo skeleton and as they grow this is shed in the process called moulting. A new exo-skeleton grows beneath the old one and due to changes in hormones the moulting process is begun. In small spider lings a moult can take place every few weeks but in larger mature adults this is usually one a year.
    What basically happens is that the tarantulas back splits and then the tarantula pulls itself out of its old skin. The entire process can take up to 8 hours to complete and is fascinating to watch.
    A word of warning
    Tarantulas nearly always moult upside down lying on their back. So if you find your pet lying on its back DO NOT turn it right side up. It will probably die. Also tarantulas may go off eating for a few weeks to a few months before a moult and may take the same again to recover from a moult. The rule is not to feed a tarantula for 2 weeks after a moult, as its exo skeleton needs to harden.

    Tarantula defence mechanisms: Tarantulas first line of defence is to run away---They are more afraid of you than you are of them. Their second line of defence is itching hair, which they rub on their attacker. These cause a rash similar to nettle stings and are only caused by certain species, which are all new world species.
    The last line of defence is to bite their attacker and inject venom. The new world species have less potent venom than old world species and the reason is because of the aforementioned itching hairs. A bite from a new world species is similar to a bee sting where as a bite from an old world species can hospitalise you for a few days. I must stress that there has never been a death due to a tarantula bite ever recorded. The above fact is true of even the smallest spider lings and again is why I would never recommend an Old world species as a pet---***Edit***Likewise--Some old world speies can be aggressive but not dangerous as I still havent found a death from a bite from any tarantula species. They are too aggressive and dangerous. And don’t believe that there venom glands can be removed or their fangs. It’s not possible and would kill the spider. It’s a myth.


    Costs and recommendations:

    Generally the largest cost in acquiring a tarantula is the spider itself. If you buy from one of the two shops in Dublin a small spider ling will cost anywhere from 50euro upwards. If you are willing to take a chance and order from the UK then the same spider ling will cost anything from 5 pounds upwards. The danger is that the tarantula could die on the way over. It’s a chance you take.

    A cage can cost as little as 5 euro if you buy one of the plastic storage containers from the likes of Woodies.Likewise the heat bulb and fitting is usually around 5 euro for the whole lot.
    Food is cheap and lasts for weeks.
    So in effect if you were willing to buy from the UK then you could have your whole set-up up for less than 30 euro.

    Recommended species for beginners:
    Chile Rose: Grammostola Rosea or any Grammostola species.
    Mexican Red knee: Brachypelma Smithi or any Brachypelma species.
    Guyana Pink toe: Acicularia Avicularia or any Avicularia species.

    All the above are usually totally docile and do not usually bite. Mind you there are some individuals who have never been told these rules and can be very aggressive---but not dangerous. This is why I would recommend these species, they may bite but their venom is harmless.



    So hopefully this answers any questions regarding tarantula keeping. These are my particular experiences and I hope that they help you in choosing an interesting pet.
    Richie.


«1

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 274 ✭✭FAYESY


    I have a few care sheets on my website it is still a work in progress! so more articles will be added I have info on hamsters & general rodent care at the moment & will be added more soon.


    [mod edit- sorry faye, that link is no longer alive, it just opened pop-ups and ads so I had to delete it]


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,822 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Fayesy
    Put up a care sheet for those Sugar Gliders that you sell.They look very cute.I was going to buy the last lot from you but Ive never even heard of sugar gliders before now.
    Richie.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 274 ✭✭FAYESY


    Richie,

    I am working on my glider sheets at the moment I also have a friend who got a pair of gliders from me sriting up his experience of being owned by gliders! They make superb pets but need lots & lots of care & attention, I still have a pair available & I will only sell them to someone who has done loads of research their are loads of great site with care info just do a search, you could also check out the website [link had to be removed for same reason as the last link you posted, no longer alive - FnF] they have a message board as well that is very good & full of info.

    Regards

    Faye

    ps I will let you know once I've finished the sheet! am also trying to write my Iguana care sheet as I have got 2 crazy maniacs now! :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 400 ✭✭ClonmelMan


    Hey where can someone get a sugar glider from and how much do they cost?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 141 ✭✭boroughmal


    To richie
    Congratulations, what a good read. I never knew anything about spiders before & now I feel like an expert.
    I still think I will stick to fish though. My arachnaphobia is still there somewhere.
    Regards
    www.fishkeepingsupplies.com
    Aquarium and Fish Supply Tropical


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    >They should be housed in same sex pairs, ie pairs or groups of females, or a pair of bonded males.
    An adult male can be introduced to a baby male approx 6 wks old on neutral territory. If a pair of males living together smell a female guinea pig they will fight, keep them well seperate, better still in another room.

    >Housing: Indoors is best for guinea pigs, outdoors is fine in good weather or a shed for winter but indoors is the best way, they can be included more as part of the family and you can control the tempreture of the room. Damp weather effects guinea pigs health.

    >Guinea pigs can suffer from skin ailments, the main ones are mites, lice, and fungal infections. These can be treated at home however if the condition is severe or you are at all worried contact your local small animal vet.
    Visit http://www.gorgeousguineas.com/ for more information on their skin care and how to identify skin problems.

    >Never house them with rabbits, yes it is popular to do so but that doesn't mean it's best for the guinea pig.http://www.oginet.com/pgurney/rabbits.htm

    >Bedding: Hay (never straw), newspaper, carefresh, vet bed are all safe woodchips can cause allergies, skin problems and respiratory problems.

    >Food: Many foods on the market, Burgess Supa is a good quality food, foods that have been re-packed by the shop can lessen it's shelf life.
    Well washed fresh veg and veg is essential daily, broccolli, cabbage, cauliflower, apple..small amounts can cause lip sores if fed too much.
    Never feed ice breg lettuce in fact avoid lettuce as it has nothing much in it of benifit.
    As a treat, parsely, thyme, oregano and rosemary are amongst some safe herbs. Hay is essential, good quality fresh dry hay must always be available.

    >Fresh water in a drip feed bottle, these bottles are often not cleaned properly, you can use a cotton bud to clean the spout and inside it, you can soak it over night (it's good to have a spare bottle handy) in white vinegar. Bottle brush can also be used. If it's a large bottle fill it with white vinegar and some dry rice and shake it well to loosen dirt. Dishwasher tends to warp them.

    >Cleaning: Small pet safe cleaners from the pet shop or Trigene from the vets. Also white vinegar is an excellent and safe all round general cleaner.

    >Cleaning equipment: As above, brush and pan, kitchen roll, bin or bin bags, white vinegar. For stubborn urine stains soak in white vinegar over night. If you have a compost heap in the garden their waste makes excellent compost!

    >Bathing & grooming: Guinea pigs should be bathed every few months, depending on the guinea pig and how dirty they are.
    Every two months it is a good idea to give them a bath with Gorgeous Guinea shampoo to prevent fungal infections.
    A safe nail clippers for cutting their nails. A soft brush for their hair and a nit comb.
    You can bath them in the sink with warm..not hot water.
    Keep them indoors and warm until dry.

    >Worming: Every 3 months with Parazole or Panacur, ask your vet for the correct dosage for your guinea pig, as your guinea pig will have to be weighed.

    >Breeding: Do not breed unless you have full knowledge of their background, health etc. and unless you can find good loving homes and you know how to sex them correctly. At 3 weeks this is easier to do, females have a 'Y' shape and males if you press gently their 'mr man' will pop out (sorry there might be kids reading lol).
    Guinea pigs have a long gestation, it's really better to leave breeding to the experts.

    >Find a good vet! Very important, many vets are not used to dealing with cavies or other exotics, it is very very important to find a knowledgable vet.
    Guinea pigs have died from the wrong information and wrong treatment.
    Baytril is one safe antibiotic but must only be given if they really need it and must be given with a pro biotic like acedopholis.

    >Housing: Hutches are ok as shelter but most are too small. Best thing is if you can is build them a pen, a wire cover can be made if there are other animals living in the house. Puppy and rabbit pens also suit. If outdoors a run and hutch must be very secure and be wired top to bottom, not by cheap chicken wire but by proper aviary wire. It is best for your guinea pig to have a safe warm shed or be housed in the house.
    Lots of out of cage time too, to get used to handling and to give them some quality time.
    Sheds are great for you too, it means in wet or cold weather you can still enjoy sitting with your guinea pigs, and when cleaning them out you don't get soaked.

    >Suitable for children? : Yes they are BUT only under parent supervision, older kids can of course be given more of the responsibility but smaller children must always be supervised ..and sitting down..when handling guinea pigs, these are small fragile creatures who need careful handling.
    With the right care, handling and attention these do make good pets for kids and adults alike.
    Never expect a 5 year old to remember to feed them if getting any pet for any child no matter what age parents must be prepared to foot any vet bills etc.
    Children can help of course but can't be expencted to do everything and if the child gets bored of the pet it is up to the parent to take over.
    They should be taken on only if they are to be made a part of the family. Their life span is anything from 4 to 10 years, research is being done on exactly how long they live.

    >General health: A great website for general info. http://www.oginet.com/pgurney/index.html

    Recommended reading: Guinea Pig by Peter Gurney, published by Collins family guide. Or any of his books.

    http://www.guinea-pig-rescue.com/


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,822 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Fair play GPR.Although my experience with Guinea Pigs has been terrible(lost 5 in as many months).

    I obviously done something wrong but this will help new owners/those looking to start keeping Guinea Pigs.
    Ive stickied this for all to read!!!
    Richie


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Cheers, sorry to hear about your piggies :-(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 620 ✭✭✭RotalicaV


    Curious, do you handle yours often? I heard that even a small drop can be fatal, ie if they walked off your hand and fell a foot to the table or something.

    My mates interested in buying a spider (i hate them personally), thanks for the care sheet.


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,822 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    A low drop with a big Tarantula can rupture its (usually) huge abdomen which is always fatal although there have been successful recoveries using super glue to seal the wound.


    Smaller sub adults are safer in a fall as their abdomen hasnt reached its huge size yet.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 137 ✭✭wexhun


    Hi I just saw your sticky on guineapig care and now I'm worried! We have two male guinea pigs in a large run outside, we don't have a garage or a utility room or anywhere we can keep them inside. I thought that they would be OK as the run has a fairly sheltered small kennel type house for them to huddle up in the bad weather, but the weather here lately has been attrocious. I also saw that their bedding was not to be made up of straw:eek: Thats what I've been getting from the pet shop and the girl there said it was OK:eek: Am I causing them damage? I discovered they LOVE celery and now I'm wondering should they have it at all? Oh dear I thought I knew what I was doing...I need to do more research:( Have you any more tips?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Keep an eye on them for any early signs of respiratory problems over the winter.
    If there is nowhere else for them to go, make sure their run is in as sheltered a spot as possible. You can insulate their housing on the outside with Bubble Wrap, out of the reach of their nibbly teeth.
    Blue tarp is also good to drape over the run and weigh it down with bricks or rocks to help keep out the wind, the tarp is pretty cheap and sometimes Lidil and Aldi sell it, Argos do too.
    Make sure the rain cannot get into their housing, and that their drink area is seperate from their bed area the wetter their bedding the colder they will get. It's best to change them daily. Just replace your straw with hay, it's exactly the same price in the shops as straw anyway. Straw can more easily cause eye injuries, it's very pokey and also not as absorbant as hay, the other benifit is that pigs love to just lie down and stuff their faces in their beds. Hay is softer and warmer too.

    Their bedding area should be draught proof with a solid door give enough hay for them to toally bury themselves in.

    For extra comfort if you were prepared to pay out (they are a good investement) is a snuggle safe heat pad, you just stick it in the microwave every evening and pop it in their bed, it will stay warm all night long.

    I notice that a lot of websites say if your rabbit or pigs water bottle freezes cover it with a sock, my opinion is if a water bottle freezes than the area the animals are in is much too cold to start with.

    Try the tarp and bubble wrap it's cheap and handy to use it will make cleaning them out easier too because everything will be nice and dry and not all soggy.

    Small potting sheds make great little homes for guinea pigs and are cheaper than a lot of large hutches and cheaper than a large shed, also makes it more pleasant for the owner to go out and clean them, nothing worse than having to go out in the lashing rain and wind and try and clean out a run in the garden.

    Hope these tips help


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 137 ✭✭wexhun


    :) Thanks for your reply. My 6 year old loves her guinea pigs and I would hate to have anything happen to them:( I wasn't keen on getting them at first but when I was introduced to her friends guinea pig I have to say I was sold. They are a beautiful pet and hopefully will be a part of our family for as long as possible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Sorry, think I forgot to answer about the celery part. Celery is fine for guinea pigs as long as you shop it up small.
    The longer stringy bits, otherwise, can cause choking..at least that's what I've read so just in case I chop it up into half inch pieces.
    I chop up their veggies in different shapes and sizes, makes it more interesting for them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 32,417 ✭✭✭✭watty


    wexhun wrote:
    Hi I just saw your sticky on guineapig care and now I'm worried! We have two male guinea pigs in a large run outside, we don't have a garage or a utility room or anywhere we can keep them inside. I thought that they would be OK as the run has a fairly sheltered small kennel type house for them to huddle up in the bad weather, but the weather here lately has been attrocious. I also saw that their bedding was not to be made up of straw:eek: Thats what I've been getting from the pet shop and the girl there said it was OK:eek: Am I causing them damage? I discovered they LOVE celery and now I'm wondering should they have it at all? Oh dear I thought I knew what I was doing...I need to do more research:( Have you any more tips?

    I get a bale of hay from local farmer for 4 Euro.

    My pigs have been living outside for over 5 years.
    We had one stolen* and one died in Pregnacncy. One died due to illness despite prompt vet treatment.

    We don't breed anymore. Two boars live in one apartment and the 5 sows in a separtate run.

    During winter the runs are on the patio. During summer moved around on the Grass.

    We buy a sack at a time of Gloria Guinea Pig food (added Vit C) and keep it in the paper sack in a metal rodent proof bin.

    They love snow (rare) and hate wind. Rain and cold they don't mind much. In winter we put down fresh hay in run on Patio.

    They like a carrot stuck through wire before breakfast and get cucumber with the Gloria at Breakfast, but not at Supper.

    The occasionally get apple, fresh peppers, tomato, Dandilion and parsley. They would nearly kill for a sprig of parsley or dandilion. They also love cutting of Beech and hazel with fresh leaves or dried brown autumn leaves. They love raspberrry suckers and Brambles (sharp barbs/stalks and all). They will eat a whole strawberry plant!

    They love sitting in a little tunnel or under a board or head poking out of hay in the sun.

    We keep traps in the garden for Rats and mice especially in start of winter as the rodents will even eat out piggy's bowl in broad daylight with Guinea pig watching or even eating beside them!

    See http://homepage.eircom.net/~watty/cavies/cavies.htm from Jan 2001
    Martina is over five years old and is our oldest currently.

    We have a large cat carrier and small cat carrier and bring them all to vet about once a year for checkup. Unlike cats they LIKE the cat carrier as it is dark and tunnel like and full of lovely fresh hay.

    If a bought run or cage has a wire bottom remove it as it will make their feet go bad. The foot disease is easily fatal.

    *Cats & foxes don't leave a ladder against a nearly 7ft wall and leave the babies behind crawling around the patio.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 919 ✭✭✭Shelli


    I've read that neutering boars will not affect their personality, make them less aggressive or help them to get along with other boars, and that it won't stop them mounting each other and attempting to mate.Is this true?

    I have two young boars from different litters that live together and get along fine at the moment, I was wondering if I should get them neutered and if yes, how old do they have to be?

    What are the adavantages? I'm not planning on getting anymore GPs, so them living with females won't be an issue. Are there any health benefits or would it just be unnessesary to put them through it?

    Thanks,

    Shelli.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Unlike some other pets neutering male guinea pigs won't change their personalities or make them more friendly towards other males.

    If the the two boyos are living together and get on grand then I wouldn't neuter them, they have each other for company and as long as they don't get a whiff of a female in heat and have plenty of space and food they should get on grand for life.

    I don't neuter any males unless they are going to live with a female or if a vet recommended it for health reasons eg if a pig had a tumour etc. because it is an op at the end of the day and the risk is higher than for a cat or dog, as far as I know there is no health benifits for neutering two males that get on well together, perhaps it does cut out the risk of certain cancers like in most animals but it isn't a common ailment as far as Im aware.

    So your two lads will be grand as they are, mounting is normal anyway there has to be one boss over the other, even the females with mount other females just a dominence thing eventhough it looks to us like they are batting for the other team :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 919 ✭✭✭Shelli


    Great news, thanks, glad I don't have to put the little guys through it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭hamsterboy


    The best companion for a neutered male is a younger female. We have been told this countless times by experienced owners and it is sooo true. Apparently the boar takes the female under his wing. it's amazing watching her follow him around the house, chirping like crazy!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    A neutered male can live happily with any age female younger doesn't mean they will get on any better, age doesn't come into it except where you are introducing an adult male to a baby male. I have had many neutered males of all ages live happily with groups of females of all ages. If you put an age limit on it where does that leave older female guinea pigs..sad and alone. Personality comes into it too you might sometimes get a grumpy young female but a friendly older female. Age isn't an issue with females.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 Reptile Lover


    ClonmelMan wrote:
    Hey where can someone get a sugar glider from and how much do they cost?
    Sugar gliders are hard to find in Ireland,had a couple when i lived in uk. i know i keep plugging this site to everyone but put wnted advert on http://www.forumsvibe.com/reptiles/ its an irish site for reptile


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 36 tortoise17


    Removed on request of poster.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭gypsygirl


    Hi, I read your care sheet with great interest as I have two Torts and obviously want to do the best I can for them. I got them from a friend last year who was leaving Ireland and couldn't bring them. I think they are African Spur Thighed but can't be 100% sure, Will you give me tips on how to best care for them? How big will they grow?
    I bought a (cheap) greenhouse to house them in last summer and planted all the lettuces, veg, dandelions etc, that they eat, Torts really seemed quite happy in the greenhouse; moved them indoors with a heat lamp & UVB bulb for the winter and am now feeding them Store bought veg & small amounts of fruit weekly, They have access to fresh water at all times;
    I'm using very dried out peat as a substrate and they have a dark hide where they sleep, (the hide has a thermal heatpad beneath the substrate) The greenhouse was destroyed with the high winds over the past few months but I plan to replace that in the next two months or so with a stronger one.
    How much room will these guys eventually need as at this point they're taking over a bedroom. Can I winter them outdoors with a heatlamp & UVB bulb in a secure greenhouse? At the moment they are fairly small, "Smiff" the smallest of the two is about 4 inches diameter & "Jones" is about six inches. Any advice would be welcome.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,083 ✭✭✭sillymoo


    Does anyone have a care sheet on goldfish? My boyfriend is thinking of getting freshwater fish


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 36 tortoise17


    sorry for the very late reply!!
    if you post a pic of your tortoise i will identify it!:D
    african spurred tortoises are the 3rd largest tortoises in the world!!:eek: ,
    the will grow to enormous sizes!!!,

    if they are african spurred tortoises they eat a high grass diet, supplement the diet with calcium powder and nutrobal!!, this is very important,
    especially for these fast growing tortoises!!!
    they of course will need dandilion, sow thistle , panseys etc,
    avoid those super market foods, they are very low in fibre and nutrition.

    cant wait to see a pic,

    i will try and help you further when species is identified!!;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    GOLDFISH CARE SHEET

    (ALSO APPLICABLE FOR SMALL KOI AND ORFE UP TO ABOUT 1.5 YEARS OF AGE)


    Origin


    Many years ago in ancient China carp we're kept in shallow fish farms resembling rice paddy feilds.The fish were being farmed to help feed the ever increasing chinese population. These carp were plain black or brown and unremarkable. One day some farmers noticed a few golden carp we're being hatched from these black carp eggs, taking it as a sign from the heavens they kept these fish and bred them together, creating the first goldfish and giving birth to a hobby thats still very much alive today. Goldfish keeping.

    A few things you should know before you get started

    Types of Goldfish

    GOLDFISH are related to the CARP family of freshwater fish, and cousins of Japanese KOI (Also domestic fish), They are fresh water fish and cold water fish. There are 2 basic types of Goldfish, common and fancy goldfish. The common goldfish is the standard orange goldfish everyone is familiar with, while the fancy varieties include fish of various shapes and colours, some have two caudal fins,( "Tail" fins) others have no dorsal fin (The fin on their back) etc just like the variations in the many breeds of dogs today.

    There are important difference's between the fancy and common varieties, speed and toughness.

    Goldfish with the standard body shape, including common, Shubunkins, and comets etc are faster and more robust then the fancier varieties such as Black moors, Lionheads and oranda's. In an ideal aquarium the fast moving fish should not be kept with the slower fancier types as this can cause problems as the slower fish become stressed by not being able to keep up and compete with the faster goldfish at feeding time, they are also more likely to get sick as a result of this stress and also may not achieve there full potential size and beauty simply because the faster fish eat more and outgrow them. If you choose to keep fancy and common goldfish together it is ok just remember the fancy fish will not grow large in this situation.

    If a first time fish keeper try stick to the tougher types, Common goldfish, Shubunkins, comet's and anything with the average fish like shape.
    Try avoid the stranger shaped goldfish such as the Lionhead, Ryukin, Bubble eye's etc your pet shop will point out the different types of goldfish to you if you ask.

    NOTE: Avoid black moors as a beginner because they require a slightly higher temperature then other goldfish and if this need is not met their life expectancy is low.They will most likely get sick and spread disease to the other fish.

    Goldfish can be kept with many simular size fresh water fish provided you do your research first, Don't add any other animals such as snails or Tropical freshwater fish. Young Koi and Orfe are recommmended but not minnows because they will be quickly become dinner for the Goldfish.



    Requirements (These can be quite expensive so be prepared!:eek: )


    It is a common misconception that Goldfish (or any freshwater fish for that matter) can live in simply fresh water, But in reality they require a carefully cultivated eco system contained within an aquarium which requires cleaning, monitoring, adjusting and maintenance. If you are the type to put a goldfish in a bowl of water and expect it to live as long as you feed it then stop right now! The best advice I was ever given about goldfish was "to keep healthy fish you must keep healthy water". You should spend more time looking after the water then the fish themselves!

    Don't get a fright when you read of all the things required for an aquarium, many pet shops sell complete starter packs containing everything or nearly everything you will need. ok for an aquarium containing goldfish you will need:

    An appropriate sized Aquarium:
    with a hood or "lid" with a place to fit the light. most are sold complete with hoods. You can use a large goldfish bowl provided there is a surface area larger then the widest body of water. Contrary to tradition goldfish bowls are generally not a healthy environment to keep your Goldfish. Always remember surface area is more important than dept to a goldfish, to provide for proper oxygenation.

    You will need at least a 10 Gallon tank for 2 - 3 small goldfish because they will grow quite fast. I recommend a 2 foot long x 1 foot tall x about 1 foot wide to keep about five 4 inch goldfish. Don’t go by what you see in the pet shop set ups, remember these often overcrowded tanks are only temporary homes and not suitable for long term housing.

    Tank placement is very, very important. Do not place in direct sunlight or near a heat source such as a radiator, I cant stress this enough if you want to avoid all sorts of problems be sure to take this advice. The quietest, darkest corner in the house is the best place for your fish. Remember water is very heavy so be careful the surface you place it on can hold the weight.

    Polystyrene sheet: place the tank on a sheet of polystyrene cut to the right size, to evenly spread the weight of the tank and ease strain on the glass. This prevents cracking of the glass as you fill it with water.

    A Filter: many types are available from your local pet shop, remember to check the filters specs against the size of your aquarium, to be sure it can manage the amount of water present.
    Power head filters are probably the easiest to maintain for beginners altough There are better options such as external canister filters whith several layers of chemical and Biological filters.
    Its a good idea to get a powerhead filter that oxygenates the water as well (it sucks in water from the tank and some air from above and pumps out bubbles of air in water). This way you wont need a separate airstone. I use 2 powerhead filters, one large pumping water, one small pumping water infused with oxygen. Again ask in your pet shop.

    A fluorescent light (for freshwater fish, ask in your pet shop) and an electrical starter for it: Goldfish require light in order to keep healthy, stress free and colourful. the amount of light also regulates their seasonal behaviours such as breeding etc.

    A substrate: the pebbles or sand you usually see at the bottom of a fish tank is called the Substrate. It is important as it provides a filter in itself. A place for waste to break down, a place for helpful bacteria to cultivate and some pebbles for the fish to clean there mouths on. Its also natural for the fish to have a substrate so it makes for healthier happier fish. Use small rounded (smooth) Gravel pebbles for the goldfish if possible, I've had a few fish choke on pointy pebbles in the past, luckily I managed to save them all. Don't use coral sands or anything like that, remember goldfish are freshwater fish and are quite messy, sand will cloud the water when these fish go rummaging for food.

    A net: of suitable size for catching and moving Fish

    A magnetic glass cleaner: very handy

    A siphoning kit of some sort and a bucket: For cleaning. a piece of standard garden hose will do.

    A water conditioner specifically for freshwater fish:
    A liquid that breaks down harmful chemicals found in tap water. available at any pet shop costs around 10 euro, Also available is Stress Zyme (tm) and other similar products which help boost the bacteria levels in a newly set up aquarium.
    It is also advisable to invest in a PH testing kit just to make sure the water in your area isnt too acidic or alkaline. Goldfish thrive at the PH 7.2 - 7.6 range, its best if you check these levels regularly as possible, at least every second month.

    Decor: a nice rock or ornament for them to hide behind, be careful the rock isn’t made up of potentially harmful minerals such as Lime or Calcium. Don’t use Concrete either!!

    Plants: are optional, me I don’t use them, they are messy, hard to keep and tend to get eaten and pulled around the tank by the fish. They provide Oxygen and aid in the breakdown of harmful chemicals. As mentioned above a powerhead filter that gives off oxygen does the same job and is easier to maintain.

    A BOOK! Despite all I have said go out and buy a professionals book on goldfish or coldwater fish keeping, it will be an essential tool in understanding your goldfish.

    So now you've probably come to realise there is quite a bit to keeping Goldfish, well there’s more!!

    Maintenance

    As with all animals, wash hands before and after cleaning of the enclosure

    If routine maintenance are not preformed the fish will get sick and eventually die, the following Tasks are ESSENTIAL in caring for your goldfish. NEVER USE ANY DOMESTIC CLEANING PRODUCTS WITH YOUR AQUARIUM (with the exception of glass cleaning agents for the outside glass surfaces, be careful none of this gets in the tank so keep the hood closed!)

    1: Weekly 10 percent water change OR fortnightly 20 percent water change. Don’t change all the water in one go unless absolutely necessary, the water takes a few weeks to develop the right bacteria in order to break down harmful waste produced by the fish, Changing the water completely will remove most of this helpful bacteria. Remember to condition tap water with commercially available water conditioner before adding it to your tank.

    2: Clean the filter medium. basically clean the sponge in the pump.
    Clean the sponge when the water begins to pump slowly, simply remove your pump from the aquarium, (plug it out first:rolleyes: ) and remove the sponge and wash IN WATER FROM YOUR AQUARIUM, not tap water as this will kill the helpful bacteria. Obviously remove some tank water for this purpose, don’t wash in the actual aquarium:o !!

    3: clean the Glass inside with a magnetic glass cleaner. To remove algae build-up from the glass and let in light. Don’t use a tissue or any cloth. Don’t bother cleaning the rear glass of the tank as goldfish may enjoy grazing on the algae here.

    4: Examine your fish regularly. Check their behaviour. are they flicking their fins? is their dorsal fin (back) lowered? are their eyes glazed over? are they having trouble swimming to the top or bottom of the tank? are they listless or rubbing against the decor?

    Check their appearance, Are their bodies bloated or "twisted" in any way? Any Fungus like growths, white spots, parasites etc?

    All of these are signs that something is wrong and should be examined and treated accordingly. I wont dwell on fish health here because that would require a lot of space. Ask your pet shop for the Interpet (tm) guide to fish health, most pet shops have them and they are free and very useful in diagnosing problems.

    In general a healthy fish is alert, swimming freely (except at night, when they rest) clear eyed and all fins are extended like sails. There should be no wounds, white freckle like spots, rotting of the fin or mouth or bloating.

    When purchasing fish look for the above signs of health and disease, do not buy a healthy looking fish that has been kept with sick fish, only accept fish from tanks that contain healthy fish:cool:

    Adding the fish to your new Aquarium:


    Ok here's the part no one like's to hear but it's necessary I’m afraid. You must set up the tank and let the pumps run for 2 weeks before buying and adding the fish. This is in order to give the bacteria needed by the fish time to cultivate, a head start if you like. If you don't let the water settle like this you are basically dropping the fish into "dead" water which is completly unlike carps natural habitat of freshwater teeming with microscopic life. It's not recommended as the fish may die or develop disease within the first 2 weeks.
    To add the goldfish, float the bag they came in in the tank water for 10 minutes to allow the temperatures to even out gradually. Goldfish don't take well to sudden changes in temperature.

    Eco System


    Heres a basic layout of the mini ecosystem in an aquarium. Goldfish eat and produce waste containing harmful ammonia (other causes are the breakdown of uneaten food, decaying plant matter, and dead fish) The bacteria which grows on the filter medium converts the ammonia to less harmful Nitrate and finally the plants or algae in the tank convert nitrite to harmles nitrate. If ammonia or Nitrite is not Broken down in this way the water will become Toxic to the Fish. The Filter, Algae and Plants take care of this.This is why It's so important to let the tank run for 2 weeks before adding the fish as a new aquarium set up does not have the ability to break down these chemicals. It is also the reason a large tank is required and an adequate filtration system is installed, And why overcrowding of fish is to be avoided.

    The objective of a fish keeper is to maintain a balance between:

    1 The amount of water.
    2 The amount of water the filtration system can handle.
    3 The amount of fish.
    4 The amount of Oxygen being supplied to the water through bubble creating pumps or plantlife.
    5 The amount of algea and bacteria.
    6 The amount of light recieved daily ( 14 hours summer, 12 hours winter)
    7 The amount of regular partial water changes.

    This sounds hard but trust me the right aquarium set up will provide all this for you without you really having to worry about anything beyond maintenence, feeding and fish health.


    Feeding


    Each owner has his or her own ideas feeding for goldfish. To be safe stick with the specifications on the fish food container. Goldfish can live for up to 46 years of age and Koi have been recorded at over 220 years of age!! the secret to this longevity?? simply put " Maintain Good water quality and Do not overfeed" I feed my fish small amounts every day in the morning and evening, with one day a week when I do not feed them at all. Buy a high quality fish food, I find the small pellets the best because they don’t dirty the water and they digest well. Supplement Their diet with other foods such as freeze dried live foods like tubifex worms. Also some greens can be fed to your fish (Research first!!) as well as the occasional live earthworm. (Chop up for small fish). Generally speaking feed twice daily as much as the tank can consume in 2 minutes, and have one day a week when they are not fed, to encourage foraging for uneaten food particles. Also remember that a fish will eat anything edible that fits in it's mouth, including smaller fish so be careful when choosing different size fish.


    This is just my general guide to keeping Goldfish, This also applies to Koi and what are commercially marketed (mistakenly) as "orfes", but these must eventually make there way to a pond as they will outgrow the aquariums quickly.


    So why go to all this trouble?:confused:

    well It's a very rewarding hobby if like me you can appreciate the beauty and grace of these fish and there really isn't much work involved once the initial setting up period and teething problems have been worked out.

    I hope you either learned enough to get started or learned enough to know you've changed your mind about getting goldfish!! Either way my job is done so last but not least remember: A Goldfish will live a long time, so think about the commitment your making before Purchasing these animals.

    (Note: all information here is based on my lifelong experience keeping coldwater fish, However I urge potential and new fish keepers to purchase a good book on Goldfish/coldwater fish keeping written by a certified professional as they will go into greater dept about all the issues raised here, and will provide invaluable referance in years to come)


    Best of Luck and enjoy!!!:D

    Regards
    Jim


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,822 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Merged for you Jimkel.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    Hellrazer wrote:
    Merged for you Jimkel.
    cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,324 ✭✭✭tallus


    That's excellent jimkel


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    tallus wrote:
    That's excellent jimkel
    :D Thanks very much:D If I missed anything just let me know and i'll add it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,083 ✭✭✭sillymoo


    Thats great Jimkel very much appreciated!!!! :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 asira


    Hi, here care sheets for corals...

    www.asira.org/caresheets

    Best,
    Sara


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    My site has moved it has care sheets on all aspects of guinea pig care with links for even more information and also a section on rabbits.
    http://www.freewebs.com/guineapigcottage/

    If your small animal appears to be or is ill though take it to a good small animal vet this is a basic care site not a substitute for proper vet care ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29,473 ✭✭✭✭Our man in Havana


    Please remember this is a BASIC care sheet more research is essential!

    General Rodent Care

    Rodents make fantastic pets; the most expensive part of buying a rodent is the cage and set up. There is a vast array of rodents available such as: Mice, Rats, Hamsters, Gerbils, Jirds, and Degus the list is almost endless. Even the smallest of homes has room for a rodent or two, Mice need very little room even rats take up little room, my rats are housed in large wire cages with plastic or wooden shelves. If you are looking for a pet that can be left in a cage but that will entertain you then Roborovski hamsters are a good choice, Robos are the smallest of the Dwarf Hamster, they can be kept in single sex groups of up to 5 individuals. Robos are very energetic very active and great fun, but they are so fast that they are not goof if you want a pet to cuddle and handle. Syrian Hamsters are the most popular of the hamster species; they are solitary and with regular handling will ask to come out of their cages. In my opinion Rats make wonderful pets, they can be kept in single sex group; some rats can be trained in a similar way to dogs. Rats will happily sit on your shoulder whilst you wash up, surf the net or watch telly.

    Cages

    The type of cage you choose all depends on the rodent you wish to buy. Hamsters and Rats will do well in wire cages or glass cages; they do not make much mess unlike members of the Gerbil and Jird family. Gerbils love to dig and burrow and whilst they will live happily in a wire cage they will kick out all of their wood shavings and make a huge mess on the floor! (I am in the process of putting all my gerbils/jirds in tanks)

    Tanks are very suitable for all Gerbils, Jirds, Dwarf Hamsters, Mice, and Steppe Lemmings etc. Perfecto manufacture a range of glass environments with wire mesh lids, the cages also have glass shelves which make use of all the wasted space in a tank, they make small tanks suitable for Mice and Dwarf Hamsters and large tanks suitable for rats and guinea pigs. I use a mid size tank for Gerbil pairs I use approximately 5 inches of wood shavings add a handful of hay for nesting material, then add cardboard tubes, plastic pipes and branches. Gerbils and Jirds are desert animals, they are used to dry arid conditions and little water, as a result they produce very little urine which is great as they need cleaning out less frequently than Hamsters. Plastic or Plexiglas can also be used but some animals may scratch this which will obscure the view of the animals.

    Plastic Hamster Cages such as Habitrail, S.A.M. and Rotastak are very popular the added benefit is that you can buy extra levels to increase the living room and help keep small animals happy, although these can work out expensive and will require lots of cleaning. I would only use this type of cage for the smaller rodents such as Roborovski and Dwarf Hamsters, Mice and Steppe Lemmings. I have heard horror stories about Syrian Hamsters getting stuck in the tubes and suffocating to death. These cages can be very popular with children as they are brightly coloured. Some of the smaller animals may need ‘mouse ladders’ to be placed in vertical tubes to make it easier for the animals to room around.

    Wire Cages are the most readily available cages come in a vast range of sizes and styles and are more suitable for Syrian Hamsters, Degus, Chinchillas and Rats. One of the most readily available makes in Ireland is Fop they have a nice range, I prefer to purchase Marchioro cages they manufacture huge hamsters cages that I use for my rats all the tubes are large enough for adult rats to move through easily, they have big plastic shelves and have very deep plastic bases. Wire cages have a much better air flow which is suitable for Rats who can suffer with respiratory infections. For larger rodents cages can be made from wood and wire 1inch by ½ inch is best as it keeps in most critters, some rodents will chew wood so all wooden surfaces should be covered by wire. All rodents require some wooden toys to chew on, rodent teeth grow throughout their lives and they can cause a lot of havoc if they escape I have had Jirds, Hamsters and Rats escape and eat my things! Escaped animals go hand in hand with breeding animals.

    Bedding & Nesting Materials

    I use plain Wood Shavings (not pine of cedar as these contain oils that may harm little critters) as my base litter, for the very smelly animals such as Mice, Rats and Hamsters I use cat litter underneath the shavings. I use hay and straw for the bedding and often give my animals wicker baskets lined with cotton, which will be chewed up to create a soft and fluffy bed (my Nile Rats love to shred straw, hay and cotton) A paper based litter such as Care Fresh can also be used, I have tried this and did not like the way it looked in the cage, grey and lumpy not very nice it seemed to make the cage feel dark and dingy, but I would use it if an animal had respiratory problems.

    Food & Water

    It may seem a rather ‘stupid’ point to make but Rodents like all animals need Food and water to live. A heavy ceramic food bowl is best as it can not be easily tipped over and can not be chewed. A good quality food mix should be available I will use foods from the Supreme Pet Foods range or from Burges Super Feeds, I feel these mixes address the correct nutritional requirements of Rodents or Rabbits. Water needs to be available for all animals the only exception I know of is Jerboas that do not drink any water at all. Water bottles are much better than dishes of water animals can foul these with wood shavings or toilet waste.

    Daily & Weekly Care Routine

    All animals need to be checked every day, make sure they have food and water and that they are healthy. Animals need to be handled daily so that they do not bite, animals that are kept locked up in a tiny cage will sometimes start to bite their tails, sometimes this can be so bad that an animal will kill itself, this is not a pleasant experience I lost a Bushy Tailed Jird this way, I tried her in a variety of different cages and tanks but nothing I did helped.

    Once a week the cage needs to be cleaned out and disinfected, I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or diluted Milton Sterilizing Fluid. You should also give your pet a thorough check out for signs of illness. If your pet shows any of the following symptoms then Veterinary help should be sought straight away! Blood in the urine, Excessive Scratching, Fur Loss, Stumbling Around, Lumps, Scabs, Sticky Eyes, Lethargy, Shivering, Sneezing, Weight Loss or Wheezing these can all be indications of severe medical problems, also check the droppings, they should be dry pellets.


    © Faye Pleydell-Stedman


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29,473 ✭✭✭✭Our man in Havana


    Safe Foods for Rodents

    The food designed for small animals will provide the correct nutritional requirements, they also appreciate fresh fruit and vegetables and other tit bits. Imagine if you had to eat the same dinner every day, you would be very miserable that is the way small animals feel if we do not vary their diet.

    Animals should only be given a small amount of addition foods once or twice a week as too much rich food can cause diarrhoea and other health problems. I have listed a few of the safe foods, this is just a guide line other foods could be used just make sure that they are not poisonous to small animals. Never ever give a small animal chocolate, even if the smell is interesting your animal, when I was 10 I gave my pet hamster a small piece of chocolate and she died a few days later.

    Fruits & Vegetables

    „« Apple
    „« Banana
    „« Blackberries
    „« Broccoli
    „« Carrots
    „« Cauliflower leaves and stalks
    „« Celery
    „« Cherries ¡V remove the stones
    „« Cress
    „« Cucumber
    „« Figs
    „« Grapes
    „« Kiwi Fruit
    „« Mange Tout
    „« Mango
    „« Melon
    „« Mint
    „« Papaya
    „« Parsley
    „« Peach
    „« Pear
    „« Plums ¡V remove the stones
    „« Raspberries
    „« Spinach
    „« Star Fruit
    „« Strawberries
    „« Sweet Potato
    „« Swede
    „« Sweet Corn
    „« Turnip
    „« Water Melon

    Wild Plants & Flowers

    Alyssum
    Bramble Leaves
    Chickweed
    Clover
    Corn Flowers
    Cow Parsley
    Dandelion Leaves and Flower
    Dock
    Hawthorn Leaves
    Marigolds
    Michelmas Daisies
    Nasturtiums
    Phlox
    Roses
    Sweet Peas
    Wallflowers
    Watercress

    Tit Bits & Other Foods

    Acorns
    Almonds
    Beechnuts
    Biscuits - Not Chocolate
    Brazil Nuts
    Bread
    Cake - Not Chocolate
    Cereals
    Chicken - Cooked
    Cheese
    Coconut
    Crickets
    Dog or Cat Biscuits
    Dried Fruits
    Egg - Boiled
    Fish - Cooked
    Wax Worms
    Mealworms
    Pecan Nuts
    Pistachio Nuts
    Toast

    © Faye Pleydell-Stedman


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29,473 ✭✭✭✭Our man in Havana


    Please do more research & consider the problems before you think oh wow I can breed hamsters! It takes money & you need LOTS of time to raise happy tame hamsters!

    Syrian Hamsters
    Mesocrietus auratus

    Introduction

    Syrian hamsters are solitary hamster, they live alone. If you put adult Syrians together they will fight to the death. In the wild they live in individual burrows, they sleep all day and wake up at dusk. They will travel up to 8 miles foraging for food. In captivity hamsters need a large cage with a wheel they also need lots of exercise out side of the cage. A play ball is a safe way to allow your pet to exercise and explore the environment out side of their cage.

    Syrian hamsters are sometimes called the ‘Golden hamster’ after their natural wild colouring, now days there are many different colour and coat markings. There is also a Long-haired or ‘Teddy bear hamster’ another variation is the Hairless or ‘Alien hamster’ The Black Syrian is also know as the ‘Black bear’ or the ‘European black bear’

    Syrians are approximately 6-7inches in length, with a very short tail. The feet are hairless with 4 toes on the front and 5 toes on the back feet. They have expandable cheek pouches, which they use to carry food and bedding. Syrians are nocturnal meaning they wake in the evening, although they may wake for short periods during the day. The average life span is 2-3 years although they can live up to 4-5 years.

    Feeding

    Hamsters should be fed a good quality hamster mix. I use either Supreme Pet Foods Harry Hamster or Burges Supa Feeds hamster mix; both are eaten readily by my hamsters. You can feed additional foods which will be discussed in my Safe Foods for rodents section the hamster should be feed a small amount of food each day and fresh water should always be available, a water bottle is preferable and less messy than a bowl.

    Cleaning & Health Issues

    The cage must be cleaned weekly all food and bedding MUST be removed. The cage must be disinfected thoroughly I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or Milton Sterilizing Fluid. Once the cage is dry I use wood shavings and hay, I always add a little fresh hamster mix where the food store was. Cleaning the cage is also a good time to check your hamster for signs of ill health, pay attention to the droppings they should be like little pellets. Soft dropping could be diarrhoea, no dropping could be constipation. Hamster eyes should be bright and free from discharge, the nose should be clean and dry, and ears should be held erect. Signs of illness could include: Blood in the urine, soft droppings, scratching, fur loss, lumps, scabs, shivering, sneezing, weight loss and wheezing, if your hamster has any of these symptoms then you should take him or her to a Vet as soon as possible.

    Handling
    A hamster is normally 4-8 weeks old when you buy it, they should have been handled so that they are not too scared of humans. When you get home you should allow your new hamster time to adjust to its new home, speaking to it softly will help it to get used to you. After a few hours and once the hamster is awake approach the cage slowly speaking softly so the hamster knows you are there (hamsters do not have very good eye sight and may think you are a predator) place your hand inside the cage and let your hamster sniff you then gently lift up your new pet by either placing your hand over the hamster or you may cup both hands together and lift your hamster.

    Young hamsters are very fast and can jump very quickly; it is advisable to lift the hamster just a few inches at first. Gently stroke your hamster whilst speaking softly, it should soon get used to be handled and will want to come out often. Make sure your hands are clean and freshly washed before handling your hamster. As I said before hamsters do not see very well but have an excellent sense of smell, the hamster will smell any sweets etc and may try to bite your fingers hoping for a taste.

    Breeding Syrian Hamsters

    You need think long and hard before deciding to breed your hamsters. You must make sure you can house your babies, Syrians can not live together, once the babies are 3 weeks old I take out all of the males, I leave mum and her daughters together of another week only. Syrians can have up to 15-20 babies although 8-12 is normal, so if you can not find homes you may need to buy another 10 cages or more.

    Having thought hard and worked out what will happen to unwanted babies, then it is great watching babies grow and develop. It always amazes me that one week they are fully dependant on their mum, by week 2 they are eating and running around, by week 3 they are miniature adults. The female should be between 3-4 months before being bred from any earlier could lead to complications, also the first litter should be before the female is 8 months old to also avoid complications.

    Syrians females come in season every 4 days, so you have to place the male and female together every day until they mate. You must place the hamsters on neutral ground and never put a male into the female’s cage I use a critter box. The mating must be supervised and once mating is over remove the male once the female begins to fight him, mating can last from 20 minutes to an hour or more I always wait until I see signs of aggression in the female. When the female is ready to mate she will stand still with her tail in the air, the male with mate with her more than once.

    Once mating is successful make a note of the date, the gestation period is only 16 days (this is one of the shortest period known in mammals) I always avoid grabbing the female just to be on the safe side I cup her in my hands to lift her up. The cage will be cleaned thoroughly 2 days before she gives birth I make sure to give extra bedding so she can make a nice deep nest. The babies should be born on the evening of the 16th day if the hamster has not given birth by day 18 then she should be taken to the Vet. I offer the female extra food whilst she is pregnant often cooked chicken in milk for extra protein and to help her produce plenty of milk for the babies, I often give a few mealworms too.

    I usually handle my babies from birth, but I only do this because I known my female will not mind, I handle all my babies from birth and have not had a problem, but a female may cull her litter if disturbed. Once the babies begin to walk around I place some food into the nest with them and provide chicken in milk with cucumber and other fruits and vegetables no more than 3 types of fruit/vegetables in any day.

    It is usually safe to handle the babies at 14 days old; mum will often appreciate being let out of her cage for a while at this stage. Once mum is out of the cage I give it a clean out a mum with 7-10 babies really smell after 2 weeks so I place the babies into a plastic critter box with a little old bedding and clean the cage thoroughly. Once the babies are back in the clean cage I put mum back in. I have never had any problems doing this, but every hamster is different.

    At 21 days the babies can be separated I always take the male away at this stage and leave the females for another week. Spend lots of time playing with the babies so they are nice, tame and ready for their new homes.


    © Faye Pleydell-Stedman


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29,473 ✭✭✭✭Our man in Havana


    A nice simple/basic care guide - do more research into the different species of dwarf hamster - Russian/Roborovski's/Chinese or Winter Whites being the species most often kept in the pet trade.

    Dwarf Hamsters


    Introduction

    There are 4 species of dwarf Hamsters, Russian Campbell’s, Winter White, Roborovksi and Chinese Hamsters. In general dwarf hamster care is very similar to the Syrian hamster. Dwarf hamsters are approximately half the size of their Syrian cousins and tend to be social animals preferring to live in small family groups. In captivity dwarf hamsters can be kept in single sex pairs or groups or a breeding pairs. Dwarfs can make superb pets with gentle handling, but like humans they all have individual personalities. Like all hamsters they are predominately nocturnal but will often be up and about at times throughout the day. Dwarf hamsters have a very cute appearance, they have check pouches like the Syrians but their tails are much smaller.

    Russian Campbell’s

    Russian Campbell hamsters (Phodopus Campbelli) are the most common of the dwarf species kept as pets. They tend to be very friendly although I have had some that do bite especially when they have young. They are usually brown on top and white underneath with black eyes, there are also albino white Russian with red eyes, and a light caramel colour with ruby eyes, that is a cross between the brown and the albino white Russians. Breeding accurse year round in captivity, a pair can produce a litter of babies every 18 days. The babies are born blind and hairless, they develop very quickly and within 2 weeks miniature Russians are running around the cage. I house the Russians in wire cages without problems although cages designed for mice are best or tanks.

    Roborovski’s

    Roborovski hamsters (Phodopus Roborovski) are the smallest of the dwarf species; they are very fast and very agile hamsters. In my opinion they are not suitable for children they are very hard to catch and do not appreciate human handling, although mine tend not to bite they just wriggle. They are great fun to watch, they love using their wheels and your often find 2-3 on the wheel at any one time. They perform acrobatics and are very amusing to watch, as they are so small a plastic or glass tank is best. They would be able to fit through the bars of wire mice cages especially baby Robos.

    Chinese Hamster

    Chinese Hamsters (Phodopus) are longer and thinner than the Russians they have a slightly longer tail and are classed as a rat like hamster. They are usually grey or brown with a dorsal stripe; they have a longer more pointed face. I feel that the term rat like is an unfair term as they are very cute and do not look like rats. I have not kept Chinese hamsters for a long time and am still learning. I have read that they live happily in pairs so I got 2 breeding pairs and in both instances the female killed her mate, 1 female died and I am now left with 1 female. The Chinese hamsters seem to be more timid than the Russians although they do not bite. They love to burrow and because of their slender builds they need to be housed in tanks. They require lots of exercise and spend a lot of time on their wheels; I also furnish the cage with cardboard boxes and tubes. My female loves to burry the cardboard to make tunnels and a bedroom chamber.


    Winter Whites

    Winter White hamsters (Phodopus Sungorus) have grey backs and are white underneath they are similar in size to the Russians. In the winter they change from grey to white. I have not kept winter whites as pets; I imagine their care and personalities are similar to the Russians.

    Feeding

    Hamsters should be fed a good quality hamster mix. I use either Supreme Pet Foods Harry Hamster or Burges Supa Feeds hamster mix; both are eaten readily by my hamsters. For the dwarf species I add wild bird seed, and offer the occasional spray millet. Insects can be offered in the wild Dwarf hamsters are often found to have seeds, insects and plants in their food stores. You can feed additional fresh foods which will be discussed in my Safe Foods for rodents section the hamster should be feed a small amount of food each day and fresh water should always be available, a water bottle is preferable and less messy than a bowl.

    Cleaning & Health Issues

    The cage must be cleaned weekly all food and bedding MUST be removed. The cage must be disinfected thoroughly I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or Milton Sterilizing Fluid. Once the cage is dry I use wood shavings and hay, I always add a little fresh hamster mix where the food store was. Cleaning the cage is also a good time to check your hamster for signs of ill health, pay attention to the droppings they should be like little pellets. Soft dropping could be diarrhoea, no dropping could be constipation. Hamster eyes should be bright and free from discharge, the nose should be clean and dry, and ears should be held erect. Signs of illness could include: Blood in the urine, soft droppings, scratching, fur loss, lumps, scabs, shivering, sneezing, weight loss and wheezing, if your hamster has any of these symptoms then you should take him or her to a Vet as soon as possible.

    Handling
    A hamster is normally 4-8 weeks old when you buy it, they should have been handled so that they are not too scared of humans. When you get home you should allow your new hamster time to adjust to its new home, speaking to it softly will help it to get used to you. After a few hours and once the hamster is awake approach the cage slowly speaking softly so the hamster knows you are there (hamsters do not have very good eye sight and may think you are a predator) place your hand inside the cage and let your hamster sniff you then gently lift up your new pet by either placing your hand over the hamster or you may cup both hands together and lift your hamster.

    Young hamsters are very fast and can jump very quickly; it is advisable to lift the hamster just a few inches at first. Gently stroke your hamster whilst speaking softly, it should soon get used to be handled and will want to come out often. Make sure your hands are clean and freshly washed before handling your hamster. As I said before hamsters do not see very well but have an excellent sense of smell, the hamster will smell any sweets etc and may try to bite your fingers hoping for a taste.

    Breeding

    Most of the dwarf species will be kept in pairs and should remain in pairs throughout the pregnancy and birth. They generally give birth to 2-6 babies, the females can go into heat immediately after giving birth, so a pair will usually have a new litter every 22-26 days. The male often plays a vital role in rearing the babies, although a pair should be watched to ensure that the female does not attack and kill her mate after giving birth.

    ©Faye Pleydell-Stedman


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29,473 ✭✭✭✭Our man in Havana


    Very basic care sheet - rats make FANTASTIC pets if you are willing to put in the time & attention etc - more research is ESSENTIAL!

    Fancy Rats
    Rattus norvegicus

    If I had any single thing to recommend rats as pets, it would be their intelligence. Rats were virtually the last rodent I got around to keeping as a pet, I was very wary of their size and the tail! I did loads of research before I got my first rats and am now addicted to the cute, gentle and smart creatures rats are. I was surprised at how smart they were and how social they are. Most rodents will become tame on some basis, but rats honestly seem to enjoy human company and will chase strings, come when called (sometimes), and generally play in ways I was not expecting from a rodent pet. Rats have been likened to dogs for their intelligence and love for human company. Rats are very like cats, dogs and even humans in their characters some crave human contact whilst some simply tolerate it. The most beloved of all my rats was a brown and white hooded female called Lucy. I was asked to adopt Lucy by an American family who were moving back to the States. Lucy loved to spend hours on my shoulder no matter what was going on around her. On one occasion my brother came to collect me from work and brought Lucy with him, as she would not go back into her cage. When my brother walked into my office Lucy wanted to come to me, and just as I was taking her into my arms my boss walked in! he nearly died of fright the look on his face was priceless! Even if I did have a lecture afterwards! Lucy then accompanied Shaun and me into Xtravision to pick a video! Wherever we went Lucy wanted to come too so very much like a faithful dog.
    Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the companionship of humans, they thrive in - and need - the company of their own species. No amount of human company can compensate for the lack of rattie companions. Although rats will usually survive if kept as single pets, pet care is not just a matter of keeping animals alive; rats will have happier and more interesting lives when kept with other rats. Rats should never live alone, and ideally should be kept in groups of two or more of the same sex. Biting, out of fear or aggression, is unusual in pet rats.
    Rats become much attached to their owners, make playful, sensitive pets, and can be taught to come by name and learn a variety of tricks. Unlike many other rodents, however, rats are a fairly high maintenance pet. They need at least an hour's playtime outside their cage every day. Because they are much more intelligent than many other small animals, rats can suffer greatly if not given enough attention, free-range time, and environmental stimulation. While rats are extremely rewarding pets and will repay any attention and affection you give them a thousand fold, they may not be suitable for everyone; if you cannot guarantee to give your rats at least an hour of quality time every day, then perhaps a lower maintenance pet would be more suitable.

    Feeding

    Rats should be fed a good quality rat food. I use either Supreme Pet Foods Reggie Rat or Burges Supa Feeds rat food; both are eaten readily by my ratties. You can feed additional foods which will be discussed in my Safe Foods for rodents section. Rats eat a large amount of food each day, fresh water should always be available, and a water bottle is preferable and less messy than a bowl.

    Cleaning & Health Issues

    The cage must be cleaned weekly all food and bedding MUST be removed. The cage must be disinfected thoroughly I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or Milton Sterilizing Fluid. Once the cage is dry I use wood shavings and hay, but I always put a layer of cat litter underneath the shavings this helps stop the cage smelling too quickly. Rat urine creates ammonia fumes, so a dirty cage leads to an unhealthy build up of ammonia. Cleaning the cage is also a good time to check your pet for signs of ill health, pay attention to the droppings they should be like little pellets. Soft dropping could be diarrhoea, no dropping could be constipation. The rat’s eyes should be bright and free from discharge, the nose should be clean and dry, and ears should be held erect. Signs of illness could include: Blood in the urine, soft droppings, scratching, fur loss, lumps, scabs, shivering, sneezing, weight loss and wheezing, if your rat has any of these symptoms then you should take him or her to a Vet as soon as possible. Rats should never be housed in a cage with wire shelves, rat feet are very delicate and rats can suffer with a condition called bumble foot (ulcerative pod dermatitis). , this is a painful swelling which cause considerable pain and must be treated by a vet! I use wooden shelves or solid plastic shelves.

    Handling
    A rat should be 8 – 10 weeks old when you buy it, they should have been handled so that they are not too scared of humans. When you get home you should allow your new rat time to adjust to its new home, speaking to it softly will help it to get used to you. After a few hours approach the cage slowly speaking softly so the rat knows you are there (rats do not have very good eye sight and may think you are a predator) place your hand inside the cage and let your rat sniff you then gently lift up your new pet by either placing your hand over the rat or you may cup both hands together and lift your rat.

    Young rats are very fast and can jump very quickly; it is advisable to lift the rat just a few inches at first. Gently stroke your rat whilst speaking softly, it should soon get used to be handled and will want to come out often. Make sure your hands are clean and freshly washed before handling your rat. As I said before rats do not see very well but have an excellent sense of smell, the rat will smell any sweets etc and may try to bite your fingers hoping for a taste.

    Breeding

    Rats are born after 21-28 days gestation, although the normal term is 22-23 days. Rats have poor eyesight but their senses of hearing and smell are many times more sensitive than ours. Baby rat’s eyes open when they are between 13-16 days old, although they can hear and smell a few days after birth. They often start to nibble solid food as soon as their eyes open, but they still need their mother's milk until they are at least four weeks old. As with all mammals, mother's milk is the best food for young rats - they should not be weaned from the mother, or fed milk substitutes/animal formula, without good reason. Their bodies are designed to thrive on rat milk, not cat formula! There is no need to offer soft weaning foods; unlike human babies, young rats have teeth and can gnaw from the moment they start to eat solids. They do not need purees.
    Rats normally leave their litter at 6 weeks of age; they are fully weaned from their mother at 4-5 weeks, but benefit greatly from staying with their breeder and being socialised until 8 weeks, since the period from 2-6 weeks of age is a crucial stage in the rat's mental and social development. It is important that rats are allowed to stay with their litter until this age, and the UK's National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS) does not allow baby rats to be sold through its shows or register before they are six weeks old.
    A rat usually become fertile between 5-12 weeks of age, but does have been known to get pregnant as young as 3 1/2 weeks. This is only an issue if young does are introduced to older males who can mate with them; their litter brothers will not become fertile until after 5 weeks of age. If litters are not separated by sex at 6 weeks old, some does are likely to be pregnant. We are aware that most rat books say that does do not become fertile until 8 weeks old, but unfortunately, many baby female rats have not read the books, and get pregnant a lot younger than this! Such early pregnancy places a great strain upon the mother and her babies; please don't take the risk.
    Rats grow rapidly until they reach 12-14 weeks. After this, the growth slows down but they continue to fill out until they reach six months of age. Adult bucks usually weigh 400-700g, does around 200-500g. As long as a rat has been handled as a youngster, it will bond to you no matter how old it is when you first get it. Rats usually live for around two years, although some make it to three and beyond. A big cage, other rats for company, a healthy diet, and lots of exercise is the best way of making sure that your rats have a long, happy life.

    ©Faye Pleydell-Stedman


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,324 ✭✭✭tallus


    Excellent Care sheets.
    Are rats really good pets? they give me the shivers tbh. I can't touch my cat for ages after he has killed one and usually have to get someone to remove the killed rat when he does manage to kill one. I just can't stand them :/


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29,473 ✭✭✭✭Our man in Havana


    Rats really do make FAB FAB FAB FAB pets & I was unsure about getting them at first because of the tail - but I LOVE them & wish I had some more but they do take a lot of care etc. & fancy rats are soooooooooo differnt to wild rats which make me shiver! Especially when my birds wake us cause a rat is trying to get into the avairies!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭racso1975




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    I'm working on a bearded dragon care sheet so Ill have that up here soon;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 266 ✭✭SCI


    My caresheet on cornsnakes,based on my own experiences both
    keeping and breeding them.If you need help with snakes in
    general pls pm me I'll do my best.
    http://www.freewebs.com/scissnakes/cornsnakecaresheet.htm


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 266 ✭✭SCI


    Here's a few more caresheets on snakes.
    Royal pythons.
    http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/
    And another site full of care,information and history on
    boa constrictors.Both Bci and Bcc's.
    http://www.boa-constrictors.com/com/com.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel




    Bearded Dragons care sheet:D

    I'm sure allot of you have seen them in pet shops around Ireland, They (And reptiles in general) have gone through a bit of a boom over the past 2 years, so for anyone considering getting them here's a basic idea of what’s involved.

    What is a bearded Dragon?


    A Bearded Dragon, also sometimes known as a bearded Lizard, Is a Moderately sized Lizard From central and eastern Australia. They are Semi Arboreal Reptiles., which means they live on the ground but also like to climb. Mainly to bask in the sun.They are also, like all Reptiles, Ectotherms, Which means they use there environment to regulate their body temperature, unlike mammals who generate there own heat. In short reptiles require external heat sources.

    Us Mammals (Yes we are Mammals too!:p) need to eat allot of food in order to have the energy to make our own heat, But reptiles, Like the Beardy, can go without food for quite some time because they rely on the sun, Earth and Environment to heat them, and cool them down. Hence the term "Cold Blooded".

    Do they make good pets?


    Well yes and no, as far as reptiles go they are one of the best Pets out there. But compared to other common pets like Dogs, Hamsters etc they are not as "Cuddly" nor do they enjoy human contact as much. So if your looking for a pet to handle, cuddle, dress up and play with then reptiles are not for you. They are more Akin to Tropical Fish keeping. In saying that Bearded Dragons do enjoy some handling, as your warm blooded body is a nice thing for a reptile to sit on. They are also one of the easiest Lizards to handle.

    Do they bite?


    In general no. They are an extremely tame and docile Lizard although occasionally a vicious beardy is born that will attack anything that comes too close. Sometimes an altogether docile baby Beardy can grow into a nasty little Juvenile. These are rare, maybe 1 in every 100 beardies born. But an average beardy will never bite. However if you disturb them while they are sleeping or startle them they may snap at you. Like any animal would.

    Do they Carry Salmonella?


    Many Reptiles carry Salmonella, you can get them tested for this by a vet and treated if it bothers you. Although despite the scare stories about reptiles and Salmonella the risk of Zoonosis (Catching a disease from an animal) is low. You would have to be kissing the lizard, or placing your hands in your mouth or on food after touching their faeces (eugh) but I doubt anyone is that Unhygienic! So long as you wash your hands after handling them or cleaning the enclosure you are quite safe even if they do carry Salmonella.Are they a suitable pet for a child?In a word no, Children may find Beardies fascinating but they must be cared for by a responsible
    adult. For reasons stated above, children would be at a much greater risk of salmonella poisoning. so If you plan on getting one and have kids, make sure they wash their hands with antibacterial soap after touching a beardy or any reptile.

    Are they intelligent?

    Yes, as far as reptiles go they are in the top 10. For example They will recognise their owner and some are wary around strangers. I had to return a bearded dragon recently to a shop because he was too small to keep with the bigger beardies I had, and a few weeks later I went in. The Beardy was still their and as soon as he saw my he ran to me and followed me around the glass as I moved around the room. (This was quite heart breaking for me as I couldn’t keep him although he had become my little buddy). A more accurate description for the is that they are very socially intelligent. They have earned the name Puppy dog of the Reptile world.

    Can I keep one, or do they need a companion?


    You can keep a beardie alone, Males are recommended for this as they are more social. Although, You will never get to see the full range of Bearded dragon behaviour (Which is fantastic to watch!) if you just keep one, They are a semi social animal in the wild, Spending much time alone but "hanging out" with other beardies when they find them, and gathering to Mate. They are best kept in groups of two or 3, always 1 male to every 2-3 females. But this presents its own problems I will discuss later. I cant say that I think a beardy would be as happy alone as it would be with others to interact with.

    How big do they Grow?


    An adult male in a dominant position in a community can grow quite large, 26 inches has been recorded and there may be bigger ones out there. The average length for an adult female or Subordinate male is between 19 and 22 inches. If kept alone a male can grow to about 24 inches, females slightly smaller.

    What do they eat?

    Bearded dragons food should be dusted with a vitamin and calcium supplement, these are available from pet shops. The Frequency of dusting is based on the age and diet of the animal.

    As Neonates (Hatchlings) and Juvenile’s they eat Insects, which means Live Crickets, Lots and Lots of them! An average growing young beardy will eat about 1 box of crickets a week with occasional veg. Dust Crickets every second feeding. To do this place crickets in a small container like a beaker, place a pinch of the supplement into the vessel, cover the top and swirl
    the crickets around. Mealworms and locusts should be avoided at this age, mealworms have been known to eat their way out of young beardies guts, killing them in the process.

    Sub adult, 6 - 8 months
    feeding of crickets should be reduced to once every second day. This is when Veg should become a steady part of their diet, lest they become obese.Things like Kale, Courgette, Spinach, Chickaree and Dandelions are perfect for them. Things like carrots, peas, corn etc should be avoided as they contain substances that interfere with the Bearded dragons ability to absorb Calcium. As a general rule of thumb, Dark Green Leafy veg = good. Sweet colourful or light green veg = bad. This should be made available on a dish all day, so they don’t go ahead and try eating each other! With a good diet like this dusting with supplements can be reduced to about once every second day.

    Adults from 18 months
    From here on in all high protein diets should be reduced, crickets and other live foods should be fed to them twice a week first and finally reduced to once a week, veg will be the main diet from now on. with supplementation once every 3 days. Pinkies, and other rich foods should be on a treat only basis, never often. This may be altered if prepareing them to breed.

    the above diet brings me to my next question:

    How long do they live?

    Many pet shops will tell you 5 years is a good age for them to reach, this is an unfortunate result of poor husbandry, in fact a bearded dragon can live for 20 years!

    Now here’s the science of it
    very important!! Forget everything you know about mammals, Bearded dragons are reptiles, they do not make there own heat and therefore require less food then mammals, In the wild a bearded dragons goal from birth is to grow fast. The faster they grow the more likelihood that they will survive to mate and lay or fertilise eggs. for this reason Bearded dragons are programmed to seek out Protein, namely insects and small mammals, lizards and snakes. Bearded dragons age and life stages are accelerated as they eat protein, so keeping your beardy on crickets and pinkies all their life will greatly reduce their lifespan, hence the 3 -5 years they tend to live in captivity. In zoo's, who understand this process beardies can live till 20, maybe more provided that the high protein diet is gradually replaced by nutritious, high calcium veg within the first year.So if you want to have a beardy for a long time, follow the above guidelines.


    What equipment do I need to keep them?


    ahh the big question, Ok Firstly a reptile Enclosure is called a Vivarium. Sometimes if plants and water features are involved this is called a Terrarium. But for Beardies its a Vivarium or Viv for short.

    HOUSING:

    Beardies are best house in a viv suitable for large snakes. My recommendation is a long wooden box with 2 sliding glass screens on the front and a suitably placed vent. Size is very important and if I may be so bold to quote myself here is an excerpt from one of my posts explaining this:

    "If your gonna get them at roughly 6 - 8 weeks old, which is the usual age they become available in pet shops, then there are things to consider. Before I start though forget about the mesh terrariums you see in pet shops, suitable for several pet lizards yes, but not beardies, beardies are a Large lizard compared to many others on the pet market and have different
    requirements.Don’t use an aquarium to keep them in, it can be done with a mesh top, but the cleaning will be difficult, Amongst other problems.

    A cage like set-up as seen with Chameleons is not suitable, nor is a vivarium that is just tall and not long. Beardies are SemiTerrestial, which means the live on the ground and climb to bask. they need lots of floor space.

    Firstly I recommend a snake enclosure like vivaria, made of melamine faced wood with sliding glass at the front.This set up makes access easy and more importantly holds heat well, I can heat my 7 foot vivaria with one 60 watt spotlight, which they bask under. I placed polystyrene sheets on the top of the vivarium for insulation, although I also have a vent on the top too. but bare in mind they are in a warm apartment so I cant vouch for this in a cold room like a garage, which may require more heat sources.

    The reason I recommend melamine faced wood is that its water proof so it wont get spoiled or damp and is wipe clean.They are allot cheaper to build yourself or have a friend who’s handy with wood knock one together for ya,

    the most expensive piece is the glass,
    your looking at 100 euro for two sheets with polished and rounded edges. lengths of plastic glass runners (the slots in which the glass fits into, and slides upon) are available DIY stores, I got mine from homebase but they were a bit pricey for two lengths of plastic, around 17 euro each.
    The wood cost me 80 euro, so all in all it cost around 300, (Including the lights and heat mat) to build a 7 foot by 2 by 2 vivarium.

    If I was to buy that premade, It would easily cost me 1000 euro.

    So bearing in mind that Beardies grow fast and they don’t like to feel exposed (as in the wild an easily visible beardie is a soon to be dead beardy) your faced with a Problem: Having A Vivaria that’s small enough for two baby beardies to feel comfortable and safe, and having a vivaria big
    enough to house the two fully grown adults, which they will soon become.

    You have two options;

    1: Buy a small 2 - 3 foot vivaria only to have to keep buying larger ones as they grow, eventually getting to the full size Which would mean buying 2 or possibly 3 vivariums in one year.(very expensive!)

    or 2: do what I did, I built a 7 foot Vivaria as I said, but made a petition wall inside made out of melamine faced wood and placed it at 3 foot thus making it smaller (This was for 5 babies). Then as they grew I moved the "Wall" back to 5 foot which is where it is now, as they are not fully grown. When I need to I will simply remove the "Wall". Although the spare 2 foot is ideal for raising newly hatched neonates if I manage to breed them.
    so this Saved me buying or building larger ones every few months.

    So for 2 Baby Beardies I would recommend at least a 2 foot long, 2 foot high,(to keep the spot light at a safe distance) Vivarium. This will minimize fighting as they wont always be "in each others face".

    For two 6 - 8 month old Beardies You will need 4 foot long minimum

    For two adult Beardies you will need at least 5 foot. You will see Big beardies being kept in pet shops in small enclosures, but these are not permanent homes and therefore should not be taken as the correct way to keep them. They need space to explore, exercise, hunt, "get away from it all"(ie;Hide), And they certainly need a big enough enclosure so he/she doesn’t end up sitting in their own faeces!


    SUBSTRATE:


    NEWSPAPER
    For babies Up to 5 months I recommend using Newspaper, Beardies kept on sand when small run the risk of Impaction of the gut caused by swallowing sand, this can be fatal. Young beardies are also messy because they eat more, so newspaper makes cleaning easy.

    After 5 months you can think about a more attractive substrate like sand or bark. Both of these are good options. But if you want an ultra safe, Hygienic viv and don’t care what it looks like, newspaper is the best option, Needs to be changed every 3-4 days.

    SAND
    I only recommend using Coral sand designed for fish tanks with beardy's, its not a fine sand and will be easily noticed and spat out by a beardy if some gets on his food. Bearded dragons Do not come from a sandy desert, they are from a semi-arid region featuring rocks and shrubbery, like a dry cracked wasteland. sometimes they can even be found on the outskirts of forests. So a fine sand I don’t recommend, it gets up their nose, in their mouths, and can cause serious problems. Also there is a new product on the market which is a sand made from Calcium, the idea is that if they swallow some accidentally then at least its good for them, again I don’t recommend this, Beardies don’t and shouldn’t eat sand or be encouraged to do so.

    Many people don’t use coral sand and get along fine, but I’m not taking the risk, I like to provide a naturalistic environment and creating a sandy desert for them is not naturalistic. Coral sand doesn’t have the sandy desert look, but it is Cheaper, Safer and still quite nice. It also lets beardies dig which they enjoy doing. Coral sand needs to be replaced or topped up once every 12 months provided that faeces, urates and soiled sand is removed daily and that once every 2 months or so the sand is removed, and the floor area cleaned and disinfected and allowed to dry before returning the sand. Sand can also be washed but it takes a long time to dry.

    BARK
    Bark is a good option but it does soak up liquid and can start to smell quickly. Its a good place for bacteria to live in so it needs regular changing. In saying that beardies don’t really live on bark chippings in the wild but its a functional, safe, relatively cheap option.

    PAVING SLABS
    These are a great idea to incorporate into the vivarium, they make a good feeding area and are good for the beardies nails. They need to be taken out and washed, disinfected and well dried out about once a month.

    LIGHTING:

    Bearded dragons require UVA/UVB lights, usually available in the form of a fluorescent tube the runs the length of the viv. They have a range of about 20 inches so this should be taken into account when positioning the tube. anything after this and the light is useless, Having a climbing area allows beardies to get closer to the light and benefit from the rays. The UVA/UVB is used by the beardies to absorb vitamin D3, which is needed by beardies to use the calcium they eat. It is also essential for its other physiological and even psychological effects. These need replacing every 6 - 8 months as they loose their effectiveness, but they are cheap enough to buy. Make sure the Tube light has the correct spectrum for the beardies, the easy way to do this is to buy lights specifically made for Desert Lizards, such as Reptiglow (tm) lights. I use a Reptiglow (tm)10.0 tube in my Viv.

    In conjunction with this a spot light should be used over a basking area made from raised rocks or wood. A spot light will heat the Vivarium and the beardies will come here to bask when they want to heat up. These are available in different colours although for beardies I recommend yellow
    light, as it provides a natural light colour. Studies have Shown that Bearded dragons are healthier and happier in A Brightly lit Vivarium. This is why I don’t recommend blue, green etc, lights.

    You can buy Mercury Vapour bulbs which give off heat and UVA/UVB light, these cost around 100 euro and need replacing every 6 - 8 months so are not very economical, also because beardies require large vivariums the light will only have an effective range above the basking spot. For this reason Tube lights are recommended. Take great care when placing the Lights, the basking spot should not reach above 35 Degrees and the Beardies should not be able to reach either the Spotlight or the Tube, as they may get
    burned.

    HEAT MAT:
    A heat mat about a 3rd the length of the Viv should be placed under the substrate and turned on at night, to provide a nigh time ambient temperature of around 22 degree Celsius. There are many scare stories about heat mats burning beardies, most modern heat mats designed for
    reptiles are safe, although there should be a few inches between the heat mat and the surface so the beardies cannot sit directly on the mat, I can place my hand on my heat mat indefinitely and it does not burn, its just a nice warm temperature. the Idea of the heat mat is to warm the whole Viv, so it should be hidden and the beardies not encouraged to sit upon it. Mine don’t, preferring to dig little hollows in the corners or under rocks to sleep in.

    HOT ROCKS:
    Should be avoided for beardies, in my opinion. Beardies have evolved to seek heat from above, so they cannot judge temperature from below, and may get burned by hot rocks. Unlike heat mats hot rocks are not designed to heat the whole Viv, but for the animal to sit upon it, this is why I
    believe they are an unnecessary risk. With good a quality heat mat and lighting, these are not required.

    DECOR AND DESIGN
    Decor should include of a climbing area, such as Java wood. A basking spot big enough for all the beardies to sit separately on it, a large dark rock is a good idea, as it absorbs heat and stays warm at night, helping to keep a nice ambient temperature. Other alternative basking spots are required if you plan on keeping more then 3 beardies, especially if you keep more then one male. This reduces fighting. Rocks should be dotted around the viv too, as well as a cave for retreat. The cave must be placed in a cooler part of the viv and not above the heat mat or below the light, as the cave can trap heat and become a death trap for beardies. Also a nice open space for running should be included.

    FEEDING DISH:
    A small dish full of a fresh mix of veg should be placed in the same spot every day for adults.

    WATER:
    Several shallow water dishes should be placed in the warm end of the viv, make sure the dish is easy to get out of if they fall in, and shallow, but deep enough to immerse the beardies Nares (Nostrils). I like to use a saucer for babies. Beardies may also like to sit in the water, which is good for them as it helps them to shed their skin. Beardies often defecate in their water so this should be monitored and cleaned if required. water should be changed daily.

    VENT:
    A vent should be placed on an exposed part of the beardies Viv, to allow air to circulate, but make sure it doesn’t let out all the heat (Or the Beardies!). Its a good idea to air out the beardies viv daily for a few minutes, under supervision to avoid escapees of course.

    That’s the main equipment and accessories required, as you can see now there is more to keeping reptiles the just putting them in a hot box and adding crickets.

    What happens if they fight?


    Beardies will fight, especially in a crowded or too small viv. that’s why you see so many adults missing toes or the ends of their tail. Feeding twice a day for babies and having adequate space and multiple basking arrangements reduces the chances of interspecies mutilation or worse, A
    hungry beardy will try to eat another smaller beardie even if they have always lived together without a hitch. For sub adults and adults having a plate of fresh veg available all day means that they have an easier option then killing one of their friends for food, so this should be made
    available. Keeping a beardie alone id the easiest way out of this.

    Why do they wave their arms and bob their heads?


    This is the beardies way of communicating and one of the most fascinating things about these lizards.

    ARM WAVING:
    An arm wave usually means submission, It is seen in subordinate males, when establishing a
    pecking order, when feeding, and when a female accepts a male to mate.

    For instance if two beardies are stalking the same cricket, the smaller of the two will usually "wave" as if to say "take the cricket I wont fight you, your bigger then me" This is a submissive display.

    Its also seen when a smaller beardy mounts a larger on a basking site, this means "I’m just basking, I don’t mean any harm, so don't attack me"

    Its also a way for beardies to recognise their own species, they can be seen in the wild waving around newly encountered lizards, if they wave back its another beardie and is safe be around and maybe mate with!

    HEAD BOBBING:

    Head bobbing signifies Dominance, accompanied by a blackening and puffing out of the "Beard". It is usually followed by arm waving from nearby smaller beardies. Typically the Largest male will head bob the most and display the blackest beard. It is seen when establishing a pecking order, or reminding the other beardies who the boss is.It is also a pre mating display of vigour, and is very impressive to watch I dominant males.

    TAIL CURLING:
    Another behaviour is tail curling, when a beardie wants to show that he is alert and active, his tail raises in a slight curve. It can be seen when a beardie is startled, Running, Hunting.

    STALKING:
    Bearded dragons also stalk prey like a cat, they get very low and flat and move in very slow, fluid steps. Its another very entertaining to watch behaviour.

    There are many more behaviours which can be seen, this is the benefit of keeping 2 or 3 beardies.

    In Conclusion
    I cannot go into Health issues or Breeding here, because they are a whole subject in themselves and I fear I’ve already taken up some serious space here!:o But there ya go, that’s my guide to the basic requirements, care and feeding of the Bearded Dragon. It really is a fantastic animal to keep, but as you can see there is allot of things to learn and consider, If anyone reading this is considering one I recommend two things first:

    1: Buy a professionals book, like the ones published by Advanced Vivarium Systems ltd (tm)For all my advice I cannot compare to an actual herpetologist on this subject and for this reason I recommend a good book, it will go into greater detail the I can here and provide invaluable reference in the future.

    2: If your in Dublin Talk to Ben!! of reptile haven in Dublin’s fishamble street, he has been keeping reptiles of all kinds before most of them were ever available here and can give great, solid advice. If you live in Kilkenny or surrounding counties take a trip to the Reptile village and talk to the guys there, they are professional zoologists and are only too happy to offer advice, the kind you wont find in books.:cool:

    In fact Just about everything I've said here, if not based on my own experience is based on exactly the advice given by Reptile village’s owner, (Who also does research for National Geographic on reptiles), Ben of Reptile Haven, and several much more experienced friends of mine.

    So there you all go, hope I didn't bore you all to tears, And happy Beardy keeping.;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 549 ✭✭✭BlackCat2008


    Hi, I am new to boards but have been running a small rescue centre for cats and dogs for 18yrs I will post a care sheet as soon as i can mean while if u have any questions on cats or dogs i'll be happy to try to answer them. here's a start all cats and dogs male and female should be neutered and vaccinated and any animal u are not sure of thier back round should be tested for diseases so u know were u stand with them.Testing is now cheaper with nearly all vets useing the new testing kits available FOR EXSAMPLE: Cats testing positive for FIV can live long and healthy lives, but should only be kept as house pets so they don't spread the disease to other cats. Never and I repeat never be afraid to ask your vet questions, write anything you want to ask down and bring them with you along with pen and paper to write the answers.If you are paying for a service you feel you are getting no answers from change to another vet a good vet will be willing to answer any questions you have.:confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 549 ✭✭✭BlackCat2008


    These are recipe's from the book "The secrets" I was sent free in an e-mail and share them with you's.

    Bad Breath Banishers - Dog food Recipe

    2 cups brown rice flour.
    1 Tablespoon activated charcoal (find this at drugstores, not the briquet's!)
    3 tablespoons canola oil
    1 egg
    1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
    1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
    2/3 cup low fat milk

    Preheat oven to 400F. Lightly oil a cookie sheet. Combine flour and charcoal. Add all the other ingredients. Drop teaspoonfuls on oiled sheet, about 1 inch apart. Bake 15-20 minutes. Store in airtight container in the refrigerator.

    Pavlov's Mouth Watering Treats.

    2 eggs - beaten
    1 cup cooked rice - or bulgur
    1 cup cooked veggies - see note
    1 tb chopped parsley - opt.
    1 cup grated cheese
    1 tb brewers yeast

    Note: Veggies could be potatoes, zucchini, peas, carrots, etc.and should be grated or mashed.

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix all ingredient, well. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake for about 12 minutes or until set and lightly browned. Cool and store in airtight container in the refrigerator.


    Bacon Bits For Dogs

    6 slices cooked bacon, crumbled
    4 eggs, well beaten
    1/8 cup bacon fat
    1 cup water
    1/2 cup non-fat dry milk powder
    2 cup graham flour
    2 cup wheat germ
    1/2 cup cornmeal

    Mix ingredients with a strong spoon; drop heaping tablespoonfuls onto a greased baking sheet. Bake in a 350 oven for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and leave cookies on baking sheet in the oven over night to dry out. Yields about 4 dozen dog cookies.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 549 ✭✭✭BlackCat2008


    Doggie Delights

    1 up whole wheat flour
    1/2 cup grated cheese
    1/2 cup cooked peas or carrots
    1/4 lb margarine
    1 clove crushed garlic

    Mix room temperature cheese and margarine together, adding peas/carrots, garlic and flour. Add enough milk to help form a ball. Chill 1 hour,roll onto floured surface and cut into shapes. Preheat oven to 375 F. Bake for 15 min.or until slightly brown.

    Vizsla stew.

    2 cups barley
    1/2 cup wild rice
    9 cups chicken broth
    4 cups rabbit ~ boned *see note*
    1/2 cup kale ~ chopped fine
    1/2 cup asparagus ~ chopped fine
    1/2 cup lima beans ~ chopped fine
    1/2 cup carrots ~ chopped fine
    1 cup potato ~ chopped fine
    4 cloves garlic ~ chopped fine
    1/3 cup canola oil
    1 cup yogurt, skim milk

    In a large pot, place the bones and the chicken broth. Bring to a rapid boil.
    Add the long cooking wild rice and barley, reduce to a simmer and cover. After 20min. add the rabbit, cook another 30 min.
    Wash and chop the veg, place in a mixing bowl, add oil and yogurt, mix.
    Allow Barley and wild rice to cool. Remove bones. Drain liquid if needed. Pour into mixing Boil and mix well.
    Refrigerate or freeze left overs in portions in separate containers.
    *note: 2 rabbits, 4-6 pounds, bone the rabbit and cube to the size for your dog. Add the bones to the chicken broth.
    Note frozen veg may be used, run under cold water to defrost.


  • Registered Users Posts: 127 ✭✭dohc


    Any chance on a snapping turtle caresheet i have one a few months he is bout 5 or six inchs in diameter i have a 4 foot tank with a basking light and uv light but no substrate or anything as he is quiet messy just loking for some extra pointers


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 190 ✭✭05D


    Hi All, I recently got a new dog which is going to stay out the back during the day and indoors at night. He has a kennel out the back but I'm afraid he is going to be too cold considering the weather we are having!!what is the best way to keep him warm or insulating his kennel? Would dog clothes suit??Help appreciated!Regards.


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