Care sheets--Post any animal related care sheets here..

sillymoo

Thats great Jimkel very much appreciated!!!!

asira

Hi, here care sheets for corals...

www.asira.org/caresheets

Best,
Sara

Sigma Force

My site has moved it has care sheets on all aspects of guinea pig care with links for even more information and also a section on rabbits.
http://www.freewebs.com/guineapigcottage/

If your small animal appears to be or is ill though take it to a good small animal vet this is a basic care site not a substitute for proper vet care

Our man in Havana

Please remember this is a BASIC care sheet more research is essential!

General Rodent Care

Rodents make fantastic pets; the most expensive part of buying a rodent is the cage and set up. There is a vast array of rodents available such as: Mice, Rats, Hamsters, Gerbils, Jirds, and Degus the list is almost endless. Even the smallest of homes has room for a rodent or two, Mice need very little room even rats take up little room, my rats are housed in large wire cages with plastic or wooden shelves. If you are looking for a pet that can be left in a cage but that will entertain you then Roborovski hamsters are a good choice, Robos are the smallest of the Dwarf Hamster, they can be kept in single sex groups of up to 5 individuals. Robos are very energetic very active and great fun, but they are so fast that they are not goof if you want a pet to cuddle and handle. Syrian Hamsters are the most popular of the hamster species; they are solitary and with regular handling will ask to come out of their cages. In my opinion Rats make wonderful pets, they can be kept in single sex group; some rats can be trained in a similar way to dogs. Rats will happily sit on your shoulder whilst you wash up, surf the net or watch telly.

Cages

The type of cage you choose all depends on the rodent you wish to buy. Hamsters and Rats will do well in wire cages or glass cages; they do not make much mess unlike members of the Gerbil and Jird family. Gerbils love to dig and burrow and whilst they will live happily in a wire cage they will kick out all of their wood shavings and make a huge mess on the floor! (I am in the process of putting all my gerbils/jirds in tanks)

Tanks are very suitable for all Gerbils, Jirds, Dwarf Hamsters, Mice, and Steppe Lemmings etc. Perfecto manufacture a range of glass environments with wire mesh lids, the cages also have glass shelves which make use of all the wasted space in a tank, they make small tanks suitable for Mice and Dwarf Hamsters and large tanks suitable for rats and guinea pigs. I use a mid size tank for Gerbil pairs I use approximately 5 inches of wood shavings add a handful of hay for nesting material, then add cardboard tubes, plastic pipes and branches. Gerbils and Jirds are desert animals, they are used to dry arid conditions and little water, as a result they produce very little urine which is great as they need cleaning out less frequently than Hamsters. Plastic or Plexiglas can also be used but some animals may scratch this which will obscure the view of the animals.

Plastic Hamster Cages such as Habitrail, S.A.M. and Rotastak are very popular the added benefit is that you can buy extra levels to increase the living room and help keep small animals happy, although these can work out expensive and will require lots of cleaning. I would only use this type of cage for the smaller rodents such as Roborovski and Dwarf Hamsters, Mice and Steppe Lemmings. I have heard horror stories about Syrian Hamsters getting stuck in the tubes and suffocating to death. These cages can be very popular with children as they are brightly coloured. Some of the smaller animals may need ‘mouse ladders’ to be placed in vertical tubes to make it easier for the animals to room around.

Wire Cages are the most readily available cages come in a vast range of sizes and styles and are more suitable for Syrian Hamsters, Degus, Chinchillas and Rats. One of the most readily available makes in Ireland is Fop they have a nice range, I prefer to purchase Marchioro cages they manufacture huge hamsters cages that I use for my rats all the tubes are large enough for adult rats to move through easily, they have big plastic shelves and have very deep plastic bases. Wire cages have a much better air flow which is suitable for Rats who can suffer with respiratory infections. For larger rodents cages can be made from wood and wire 1inch by ½ inch is best as it keeps in most critters, some rodents will chew wood so all wooden surfaces should be covered by wire. All rodents require some wooden toys to chew on, rodent teeth grow throughout their lives and they can cause a lot of havoc if they escape I have had Jirds, Hamsters and Rats escape and eat my things! Escaped animals go hand in hand with breeding animals.

Bedding & Nesting Materials

I use plain Wood Shavings (not pine of cedar as these contain oils that may harm little critters) as my base litter, for the very smelly animals such as Mice, Rats and Hamsters I use cat litter underneath the shavings. I use hay and straw for the bedding and often give my animals wicker baskets lined with cotton, which will be chewed up to create a soft and fluffy bed (my Nile Rats love to shred straw, hay and cotton) A paper based litter such as Care Fresh can also be used, I have tried this and did not like the way it looked in the cage, grey and lumpy not very nice it seemed to make the cage feel dark and dingy, but I would use it if an animal had respiratory problems.

Food & Water

It may seem a rather ‘stupid’ point to make but Rodents like all animals need Food and water to live. A heavy ceramic food bowl is best as it can not be easily tipped over and can not be chewed. A good quality food mix should be available I will use foods from the Supreme Pet Foods range or from Burges Super Feeds, I feel these mixes address the correct nutritional requirements of Rodents or Rabbits. Water needs to be available for all animals the only exception I know of is Jerboas that do not drink any water at all. Water bottles are much better than dishes of water animals can foul these with wood shavings or toilet waste.

Daily & Weekly Care Routine

All animals need to be checked every day, make sure they have food and water and that they are healthy. Animals need to be handled daily so that they do not bite, animals that are kept locked up in a tiny cage will sometimes start to bite their tails, sometimes this can be so bad that an animal will kill itself, this is not a pleasant experience I lost a Bushy Tailed Jird this way, I tried her in a variety of different cages and tanks but nothing I did helped.

Once a week the cage needs to be cleaned out and disinfected, I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or diluted Milton Sterilizing Fluid. You should also give your pet a thorough check out for signs of illness. If your pet shows any of the following symptoms then Veterinary help should be sought straight away! Blood in the urine, Excessive Scratching, Fur Loss, Stumbling Around, Lumps, Scabs, Sticky Eyes, Lethargy, Shivering, Sneezing, Weight Loss or Wheezing these can all be indications of severe medical problems, also check the droppings, they should be dry pellets.


© Faye Pleydell-Stedman

Our man in Havana

Safe Foods for Rodents

The food designed for small animals will provide the correct nutritional requirements, they also appreciate fresh fruit and vegetables and other tit bits. Imagine if you had to eat the same dinner every day, you would be very miserable that is the way small animals feel if we do not vary their diet.

Animals should only be given a small amount of addition foods once or twice a week as too much rich food can cause diarrhoea and other health problems. I have listed a few of the safe foods, this is just a guide line other foods could be used just make sure that they are not poisonous to small animals. Never ever give a small animal chocolate, even if the smell is interesting your animal, when I was 10 I gave my pet hamster a small piece of chocolate and she died a few days later.

Fruits & Vegetables

„« Apple
„« Banana
„« Blackberries
„« Broccoli
„« Carrots
„« Cauliflower leaves and stalks
„« Celery
„« Cherries ¡V remove the stones
„« Cress
„« Cucumber
„« Figs
„« Grapes
„« Kiwi Fruit
„« Mange Tout
„« Mango
„« Melon
„« Mint
„« Papaya
„« Parsley
„« Peach
„« Pear
„« Plums ¡V remove the stones
„« Raspberries
„« Spinach
„« Star Fruit
„« Strawberries
„« Sweet Potato
„« Swede
„« Sweet Corn
„« Turnip
„« Water Melon

Wild Plants & Flowers

Alyssum
Bramble Leaves
Chickweed
Clover
Corn Flowers
Cow Parsley
Dandelion Leaves and Flower
Dock
Hawthorn Leaves
Marigolds
Michelmas Daisies
Nasturtiums
Phlox
Roses
Sweet Peas
Wallflowers
Watercress

Tit Bits & Other Foods

Acorns
Almonds
Beechnuts
Biscuits - Not Chocolate
Brazil Nuts
Bread
Cake - Not Chocolate
Cereals
Chicken - Cooked
Cheese
Coconut
Crickets
Dog or Cat Biscuits
Dried Fruits
Egg - Boiled
Fish - Cooked
Wax Worms
Mealworms
Pecan Nuts
Pistachio Nuts
Toast

© Faye Pleydell-Stedman

Our man in Havana

Please do more research & consider the problems before you think oh wow I can breed hamsters! It takes money & you need LOTS of time to raise happy tame hamsters!

Syrian Hamsters
Mesocrietus auratus

Introduction

Syrian hamsters are solitary hamster, they live alone. If you put adult Syrians together they will fight to the death. In the wild they live in individual burrows, they sleep all day and wake up at dusk. They will travel up to 8 miles foraging for food. In captivity hamsters need a large cage with a wheel they also need lots of exercise out side of the cage. A play ball is a safe way to allow your pet to exercise and explore the environment out side of their cage.

Syrian hamsters are sometimes called the ‘Golden hamster’ after their natural wild colouring, now days there are many different colour and coat markings. There is also a Long-haired or ‘Teddy bear hamster’ another variation is the Hairless or ‘Alien hamster’ The Black Syrian is also know as the ‘Black bear’ or the ‘European black bear’

Syrians are approximately 6-7inches in length, with a very short tail. The feet are hairless with 4 toes on the front and 5 toes on the back feet. They have expandable cheek pouches, which they use to carry food and bedding. Syrians are nocturnal meaning they wake in the evening, although they may wake for short periods during the day. The average life span is 2-3 years although they can live up to 4-5 years.

Feeding

Hamsters should be fed a good quality hamster mix. I use either Supreme Pet Foods Harry Hamster or Burges Supa Feeds hamster mix; both are eaten readily by my hamsters. You can feed additional foods which will be discussed in my Safe Foods for rodents section the hamster should be feed a small amount of food each day and fresh water should always be available, a water bottle is preferable and less messy than a bowl.

Cleaning & Health Issues

The cage must be cleaned weekly all food and bedding MUST be removed. The cage must be disinfected thoroughly I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or Milton Sterilizing Fluid. Once the cage is dry I use wood shavings and hay, I always add a little fresh hamster mix where the food store was. Cleaning the cage is also a good time to check your hamster for signs of ill health, pay attention to the droppings they should be like little pellets. Soft dropping could be diarrhoea, no dropping could be constipation. Hamster eyes should be bright and free from discharge, the nose should be clean and dry, and ears should be held erect. Signs of illness could include: Blood in the urine, soft droppings, scratching, fur loss, lumps, scabs, shivering, sneezing, weight loss and wheezing, if your hamster has any of these symptoms then you should take him or her to a Vet as soon as possible.

Handling
A hamster is normally 4-8 weeks old when you buy it, they should have been handled so that they are not too scared of humans. When you get home you should allow your new hamster time to adjust to its new home, speaking to it softly will help it to get used to you. After a few hours and once the hamster is awake approach the cage slowly speaking softly so the hamster knows you are there (hamsters do not have very good eye sight and may think you are a predator) place your hand inside the cage and let your hamster sniff you then gently lift up your new pet by either placing your hand over the hamster or you may cup both hands together and lift your hamster.

Young hamsters are very fast and can jump very quickly; it is advisable to lift the hamster just a few inches at first. Gently stroke your hamster whilst speaking softly, it should soon get used to be handled and will want to come out often. Make sure your hands are clean and freshly washed before handling your hamster. As I said before hamsters do not see very well but have an excellent sense of smell, the hamster will smell any sweets etc and may try to bite your fingers hoping for a taste.

Breeding Syrian Hamsters

You need think long and hard before deciding to breed your hamsters. You must make sure you can house your babies, Syrians can not live together, once the babies are 3 weeks old I take out all of the males, I leave mum and her daughters together of another week only. Syrians can have up to 15-20 babies although 8-12 is normal, so if you can not find homes you may need to buy another 10 cages or more.

Having thought hard and worked out what will happen to unwanted babies, then it is great watching babies grow and develop. It always amazes me that one week they are fully dependant on their mum, by week 2 they are eating and running around, by week 3 they are miniature adults. The female should be between 3-4 months before being bred from any earlier could lead to complications, also the first litter should be before the female is 8 months old to also avoid complications.

Syrians females come in season every 4 days, so you have to place the male and female together every day until they mate. You must place the hamsters on neutral ground and never put a male into the female’s cage I use a critter box. The mating must be supervised and once mating is over remove the male once the female begins to fight him, mating can last from 20 minutes to an hour or more I always wait until I see signs of aggression in the female. When the female is ready to mate she will stand still with her tail in the air, the male with mate with her more than once.

Once mating is successful make a note of the date, the gestation period is only 16 days (this is one of the shortest period known in mammals) I always avoid grabbing the female just to be on the safe side I cup her in my hands to lift her up. The cage will be cleaned thoroughly 2 days before she gives birth I make sure to give extra bedding so she can make a nice deep nest. The babies should be born on the evening of the 16th day if the hamster has not given birth by day 18 then she should be taken to the Vet. I offer the female extra food whilst she is pregnant often cooked chicken in milk for extra protein and to help her produce plenty of milk for the babies, I often give a few mealworms too.

I usually handle my babies from birth, but I only do this because I known my female will not mind, I handle all my babies from birth and have not had a problem, but a female may cull her litter if disturbed. Once the babies begin to walk around I place some food into the nest with them and provide chicken in milk with cucumber and other fruits and vegetables no more than 3 types of fruit/vegetables in any day.

It is usually safe to handle the babies at 14 days old; mum will often appreciate being let out of her cage for a while at this stage. Once mum is out of the cage I give it a clean out a mum with 7-10 babies really smell after 2 weeks so I place the babies into a plastic critter box with a little old bedding and clean the cage thoroughly. Once the babies are back in the clean cage I put mum back in. I have never had any problems doing this, but every hamster is different.

At 21 days the babies can be separated I always take the male away at this stage and leave the females for another week. Spend lots of time playing with the babies so they are nice, tame and ready for their new homes.


© Faye Pleydell-Stedman

Our man in Havana

A nice simple/basic care guide - do more research into the different species of dwarf hamster - Russian/Roborovski's/Chinese or Winter Whites being the species most often kept in the pet trade.

Dwarf Hamsters


Introduction

There are 4 species of dwarf Hamsters, Russian Campbell’s, Winter White, Roborovksi and Chinese Hamsters. In general dwarf hamster care is very similar to the Syrian hamster. Dwarf hamsters are approximately half the size of their Syrian cousins and tend to be social animals preferring to live in small family groups. In captivity dwarf hamsters can be kept in single sex pairs or groups or a breeding pairs. Dwarfs can make superb pets with gentle handling, but like humans they all have individual personalities. Like all hamsters they are predominately nocturnal but will often be up and about at times throughout the day. Dwarf hamsters have a very cute appearance, they have check pouches like the Syrians but their tails are much smaller.

Russian Campbell’s

Russian Campbell hamsters (Phodopus Campbelli) are the most common of the dwarf species kept as pets. They tend to be very friendly although I have had some that do bite especially when they have young. They are usually brown on top and white underneath with black eyes, there are also albino white Russian with red eyes, and a light caramel colour with ruby eyes, that is a cross between the brown and the albino white Russians. Breeding accurse year round in captivity, a pair can produce a litter of babies every 18 days. The babies are born blind and hairless, they develop very quickly and within 2 weeks miniature Russians are running around the cage. I house the Russians in wire cages without problems although cages designed for mice are best or tanks.

Roborovski’s

Roborovski hamsters (Phodopus Roborovski) are the smallest of the dwarf species; they are very fast and very agile hamsters. In my opinion they are not suitable for children they are very hard to catch and do not appreciate human handling, although mine tend not to bite they just wriggle. They are great fun to watch, they love using their wheels and your often find 2-3 on the wheel at any one time. They perform acrobatics and are very amusing to watch, as they are so small a plastic or glass tank is best. They would be able to fit through the bars of wire mice cages especially baby Robos.

Chinese Hamster

Chinese Hamsters (Phodopus) are longer and thinner than the Russians they have a slightly longer tail and are classed as a rat like hamster. They are usually grey or brown with a dorsal stripe; they have a longer more pointed face. I feel that the term rat like is an unfair term as they are very cute and do not look like rats. I have not kept Chinese hamsters for a long time and am still learning. I have read that they live happily in pairs so I got 2 breeding pairs and in both instances the female killed her mate, 1 female died and I am now left with 1 female. The Chinese hamsters seem to be more timid than the Russians although they do not bite. They love to burrow and because of their slender builds they need to be housed in tanks. They require lots of exercise and spend a lot of time on their wheels; I also furnish the cage with cardboard boxes and tubes. My female loves to burry the cardboard to make tunnels and a bedroom chamber.


Winter Whites

Winter White hamsters (Phodopus Sungorus) have grey backs and are white underneath they are similar in size to the Russians. In the winter they change from grey to white. I have not kept winter whites as pets; I imagine their care and personalities are similar to the Russians.

Feeding

Hamsters should be fed a good quality hamster mix. I use either Supreme Pet Foods Harry Hamster or Burges Supa Feeds hamster mix; both are eaten readily by my hamsters. For the dwarf species I add wild bird seed, and offer the occasional spray millet. Insects can be offered in the wild Dwarf hamsters are often found to have seeds, insects and plants in their food stores. You can feed additional fresh foods which will be discussed in my Safe Foods for rodents section the hamster should be feed a small amount of food each day and fresh water should always be available, a water bottle is preferable and less messy than a bowl.

Cleaning & Health Issues

The cage must be cleaned weekly all food and bedding MUST be removed. The cage must be disinfected thoroughly I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or Milton Sterilizing Fluid. Once the cage is dry I use wood shavings and hay, I always add a little fresh hamster mix where the food store was. Cleaning the cage is also a good time to check your hamster for signs of ill health, pay attention to the droppings they should be like little pellets. Soft dropping could be diarrhoea, no dropping could be constipation. Hamster eyes should be bright and free from discharge, the nose should be clean and dry, and ears should be held erect. Signs of illness could include: Blood in the urine, soft droppings, scratching, fur loss, lumps, scabs, shivering, sneezing, weight loss and wheezing, if your hamster has any of these symptoms then you should take him or her to a Vet as soon as possible.

Handling
A hamster is normally 4-8 weeks old when you buy it, they should have been handled so that they are not too scared of humans. When you get home you should allow your new hamster time to adjust to its new home, speaking to it softly will help it to get used to you. After a few hours and once the hamster is awake approach the cage slowly speaking softly so the hamster knows you are there (hamsters do not have very good eye sight and may think you are a predator) place your hand inside the cage and let your hamster sniff you then gently lift up your new pet by either placing your hand over the hamster or you may cup both hands together and lift your hamster.

Young hamsters are very fast and can jump very quickly; it is advisable to lift the hamster just a few inches at first. Gently stroke your hamster whilst speaking softly, it should soon get used to be handled and will want to come out often. Make sure your hands are clean and freshly washed before handling your hamster. As I said before hamsters do not see very well but have an excellent sense of smell, the hamster will smell any sweets etc and may try to bite your fingers hoping for a taste.

Breeding

Most of the dwarf species will be kept in pairs and should remain in pairs throughout the pregnancy and birth. They generally give birth to 2-6 babies, the females can go into heat immediately after giving birth, so a pair will usually have a new litter every 22-26 days. The male often plays a vital role in rearing the babies, although a pair should be watched to ensure that the female does not attack and kill her mate after giving birth.

©Faye Pleydell-Stedman

Our man in Havana

Very basic care sheet - rats make FANTASTIC pets if you are willing to put in the time & attention etc - more research is ESSENTIAL!

Fancy Rats
Rattus norvegicus

If I had any single thing to recommend rats as pets, it would be their intelligence. Rats were virtually the last rodent I got around to keeping as a pet, I was very wary of their size and the tail! I did loads of research before I got my first rats and am now addicted to the cute, gentle and smart creatures rats are. I was surprised at how smart they were and how social they are. Most rodents will become tame on some basis, but rats honestly seem to enjoy human company and will chase strings, come when called (sometimes), and generally play in ways I was not expecting from a rodent pet. Rats have been likened to dogs for their intelligence and love for human company. Rats are very like cats, dogs and even humans in their characters some crave human contact whilst some simply tolerate it. The most beloved of all my rats was a brown and white hooded female called Lucy. I was asked to adopt Lucy by an American family who were moving back to the States. Lucy loved to spend hours on my shoulder no matter what was going on around her. On one occasion my brother came to collect me from work and brought Lucy with him, as she would not go back into her cage. When my brother walked into my office Lucy wanted to come to me, and just as I was taking her into my arms my boss walked in! he nearly died of fright the look on his face was priceless! Even if I did have a lecture afterwards! Lucy then accompanied Shaun and me into Xtravision to pick a video! Wherever we went Lucy wanted to come too so very much like a faithful dog.
Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the companionship of humans, they thrive in - and need - the company of their own species. No amount of human company can compensate for the lack of rattie companions. Although rats will usually survive if kept as single pets, pet care is not just a matter of keeping animals alive; rats will have happier and more interesting lives when kept with other rats. Rats should never live alone, and ideally should be kept in groups of two or more of the same sex. Biting, out of fear or aggression, is unusual in pet rats.
Rats become much attached to their owners, make playful, sensitive pets, and can be taught to come by name and learn a variety of tricks. Unlike many other rodents, however, rats are a fairly high maintenance pet. They need at least an hour's playtime outside their cage every day. Because they are much more intelligent than many other small animals, rats can suffer greatly if not given enough attention, free-range time, and environmental stimulation. While rats are extremely rewarding pets and will repay any attention and affection you give them a thousand fold, they may not be suitable for everyone; if you cannot guarantee to give your rats at least an hour of quality time every day, then perhaps a lower maintenance pet would be more suitable.

Feeding

Rats should be fed a good quality rat food. I use either Supreme Pet Foods Reggie Rat or Burges Supa Feeds rat food; both are eaten readily by my ratties. You can feed additional foods which will be discussed in my Safe Foods for rodents section. Rats eat a large amount of food each day, fresh water should always be available, and a water bottle is preferable and less messy than a bowl.

Cleaning & Health Issues

The cage must be cleaned weekly all food and bedding MUST be removed. The cage must be disinfected thoroughly I use Supreme Home Help Spray, Hutch Clean or Milton Sterilizing Fluid. Once the cage is dry I use wood shavings and hay, but I always put a layer of cat litter underneath the shavings this helps stop the cage smelling too quickly. Rat urine creates ammonia fumes, so a dirty cage leads to an unhealthy build up of ammonia. Cleaning the cage is also a good time to check your pet for signs of ill health, pay attention to the droppings they should be like little pellets. Soft dropping could be diarrhoea, no dropping could be constipation. The rat’s eyes should be bright and free from discharge, the nose should be clean and dry, and ears should be held erect. Signs of illness could include: Blood in the urine, soft droppings, scratching, fur loss, lumps, scabs, shivering, sneezing, weight loss and wheezing, if your rat has any of these symptoms then you should take him or her to a Vet as soon as possible. Rats should never be housed in a cage with wire shelves, rat feet are very delicate and rats can suffer with a condition called bumble foot (ulcerative pod dermatitis). , this is a painful swelling which cause considerable pain and must be treated by a vet! I use wooden shelves or solid plastic shelves.

Handling
A rat should be 8 – 10 weeks old when you buy it, they should have been handled so that they are not too scared of humans. When you get home you should allow your new rat time to adjust to its new home, speaking to it softly will help it to get used to you. After a few hours approach the cage slowly speaking softly so the rat knows you are there (rats do not have very good eye sight and may think you are a predator) place your hand inside the cage and let your rat sniff you then gently lift up your new pet by either placing your hand over the rat or you may cup both hands together and lift your rat.

Young rats are very fast and can jump very quickly; it is advisable to lift the rat just a few inches at first. Gently stroke your rat whilst speaking softly, it should soon get used to be handled and will want to come out often. Make sure your hands are clean and freshly washed before handling your rat. As I said before rats do not see very well but have an excellent sense of smell, the rat will smell any sweets etc and may try to bite your fingers hoping for a taste.

Breeding

Rats are born after 21-28 days gestation, although the normal term is 22-23 days. Rats have poor eyesight but their senses of hearing and smell are many times more sensitive than ours. Baby rat’s eyes open when they are between 13-16 days old, although they can hear and smell a few days after birth. They often start to nibble solid food as soon as their eyes open, but they still need their mother's milk until they are at least four weeks old. As with all mammals, mother's milk is the best food for young rats - they should not be weaned from the mother, or fed milk substitutes/animal formula, without good reason. Their bodies are designed to thrive on rat milk, not cat formula! There is no need to offer soft weaning foods; unlike human babies, young rats have teeth and can gnaw from the moment they start to eat solids. They do not need purees.
Rats normally leave their litter at 6 weeks of age; they are fully weaned from their mother at 4-5 weeks, but benefit greatly from staying with their breeder and being socialised until 8 weeks, since the period from 2-6 weeks of age is a crucial stage in the rat's mental and social development. It is important that rats are allowed to stay with their litter until this age, and the UK's National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS) does not allow baby rats to be sold through its shows or register before they are six weeks old.
A rat usually become fertile between 5-12 weeks of age, but does have been known to get pregnant as young as 3 1/2 weeks. This is only an issue if young does are introduced to older males who can mate with them; their litter brothers will not become fertile until after 5 weeks of age. If litters are not separated by sex at 6 weeks old, some does are likely to be pregnant. We are aware that most rat books say that does do not become fertile until 8 weeks old, but unfortunately, many baby female rats have not read the books, and get pregnant a lot younger than this! Such early pregnancy places a great strain upon the mother and her babies; please don't take the risk.
Rats grow rapidly until they reach 12-14 weeks. After this, the growth slows down but they continue to fill out until they reach six months of age. Adult bucks usually weigh 400-700g, does around 200-500g. As long as a rat has been handled as a youngster, it will bond to you no matter how old it is when you first get it. Rats usually live for around two years, although some make it to three and beyond. A big cage, other rats for company, a healthy diet, and lots of exercise is the best way of making sure that your rats have a long, happy life.

©Faye Pleydell-Stedman

tallus

Excellent Care sheets.
Are rats really good pets? they give me the shivers tbh. I can't touch my cat for ages after he has killed one and usually have to get someone to remove the killed rat when he does manage to kill one. I just can't stand them

Our man in Havana

Rats really do make FAB FAB FAB FAB pets & I was unsure about getting them at first because of the tail - but I LOVE them & wish I had some more but they do take a lot of care etc. & fancy rats are soooooooooo differnt to wild rats which make me shiver! Especially when my birds wake us cause a rat is trying to get into the avairies!

racso1975

Some info on bloat in dogs http://www.thepetcenter.com/sur/bloat.html

Hip Dysplasia http://www.workingdogs.com/vchipdysplasia.htm

and here is a whole list of articles http://www.thepetcenter.com/gen/petcare.html

Jimkel

I'm working on a bearded dragon care sheet so Ill have that up here soon;)

SCI

My caresheet on cornsnakes,based on my own experiences both
keeping and breeding them.If you need help with snakes in
general pls pm me I'll do my best.
http://www.freewebs.com/scissnakes/cornsnakecaresheet.htm

SCI

Here's a few more caresheets on snakes.
Royal pythons.
http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/
And another site full of care,information and history on
boa constrictors.Both Bci and Bcc's.
http://www.boa-constrictors.com/com/com.html

Jimkel

Bearded Dragons care sheet:D

I'm sure allot of you have seen them in pet shops around Ireland, They (And reptiles in general) have gone through a bit of a boom over the past 2 years, so for anyone considering getting them here's a basic idea of what’s involved.

What is a bearded Dragon?

A Bearded Dragon, also sometimes known as a bearded Lizard, Is a Moderately sized Lizard From central and eastern Australia. They are Semi Arboreal Reptiles., which means they live on the ground but also like to climb. Mainly to bask in the sun.They are also, like all Reptiles, Ectotherms, Which means they use there environment to regulate their body temperature, unlike mammals who generate there own heat. In short reptiles require external heat sources.

Us Mammals (Yes we are Mammals too!:p) need to eat allot of food in order to have the energy to make our own heat, But reptiles, Like the Beardy, can go without food for quite some time because they rely on the sun, Earth and Environment to heat them, and cool them down. Hence the term "Cold Blooded".

Do they make good pets?

Well yes and no, as far as reptiles go they are one of the best Pets out there. But compared to other common pets like Dogs, Hamsters etc they are not as "Cuddly" nor do they enjoy human contact as much. So if your looking for a pet to handle, cuddle, dress up and play with then reptiles are not for you. They are more Akin to Tropical Fish keeping. In saying that Bearded Dragons do enjoy some handling, as your warm blooded body is a nice thing for a reptile to sit on. They are also one of the easiest Lizards to handle.

Do they bite?

In general no. They are an extremely tame and docile Lizard although occasionally a vicious beardy is born that will attack anything that comes too close. Sometimes an altogether docile baby Beardy can grow into a nasty little Juvenile. These are rare, maybe 1 in every 100 beardies born. But an average beardy will never bite. However if you disturb them while they are sleeping or startle them they may snap at you. Like any animal would.

Do they Carry Salmonella?

Many Reptiles carry Salmonella, you can get them tested for this by a vet and treated if it bothers you. Although despite the scare stories about reptiles and Salmonella the risk of Zoonosis (Catching a disease from an animal) is low. You would have to be kissing the lizard, or placing your hands in your mouth or on food after touching their faeces (eugh) but I doubt anyone is that Unhygienic! So long as you wash your hands after handling them or cleaning the enclosure you are quite safe even if they do carry Salmonella.Are they a suitable pet for a child?In a word no, Children may find Beardies fascinating but they must be cared for by a responsible
adult. For reasons stated above, children would be at a much greater risk of salmonella poisoning. so If you plan on getting one and have kids, make sure they wash their hands with antibacterial soap after touching a beardy or any reptile.

Are they intelligent?

Yes, as far as reptiles go they are in the top 10. For example They will recognise their owner and some are wary around strangers. I had to return a bearded dragon recently to a shop because he was too small to keep with the bigger beardies I had, and a few weeks later I went in. The Beardy was still their and as soon as he saw my he ran to me and followed me around the glass as I moved around the room. (This was quite heart breaking for me as I couldn’t keep him although he had become my little buddy). A more accurate description for the is that they are very socially intelligent. They have earned the name Puppy dog of the Reptile world.

Can I keep one, or do they need a companion?

You can keep a beardie alone, Males are recommended for this as they are more social. Although, You will never get to see the full range of Bearded dragon behaviour (Which is fantastic to watch!) if you just keep one, They are a semi social animal in the wild, Spending much time alone but "hanging out" with other beardies when they find them, and gathering to Mate. They are best kept in groups of two or 3, always 1 male to every 2-3 females. But this presents its own problems I will discuss later. I cant say that I think a beardy would be as happy alone as it would be with others to interact with.

How big do they Grow?

An adult male in a dominant position in a community can grow quite large, 26 inches has been recorded and there may be bigger ones out there. The average length for an adult female or Subordinate male is between 19 and 22 inches. If kept alone a male can grow to about 24 inches, females slightly smaller.

What do they eat?

Bearded dragons food should be dusted with a vitamin and calcium supplement, these are available from pet shops. The Frequency of dusting is based on the age and diet of the animal.

As Neonates (Hatchlings) and Juvenile’s they eat Insects, which means Live Crickets, Lots and Lots of them! An average growing young beardy will eat about 1 box of crickets a week with occasional veg. Dust Crickets every second feeding. To do this place crickets in a small container like a beaker, place a pinch of the supplement into the vessel, cover the top and swirl
the crickets around. Mealworms and locusts should be avoided at this age, mealworms have been known to eat their way out of young beardies guts, killing them in the process.

Sub adult, 6 - 8 months
feeding of crickets should be reduced to once every second day. This is when Veg should become a steady part of their diet, lest they become obese.Things like Kale, Courgette, Spinach, Chickaree and Dandelions are perfect for them. Things like carrots, peas, corn etc should be avoided as they contain substances that interfere with the Bearded dragons ability to absorb Calcium. As a general rule of thumb, Dark Green Leafy veg = good. Sweet colourful or light green veg = bad. This should be made available on a dish all day, so they don’t go ahead and try eating each other! With a good diet like this dusting with supplements can be reduced to about once every second day.

Adults from 18 months
From here on in all high protein diets should be reduced, crickets and other live foods should be fed to them twice a week first and finally reduced to once a week, veg will be the main diet from now on. with supplementation once every 3 days. Pinkies, and other rich foods should be on a treat only basis, never often. This may be altered if prepareing them to breed.

the above diet brings me to my next question:

How long do they live?

Many pet shops will tell you 5 years is a good age for them to reach, this is an unfortunate result of poor husbandry, in fact a bearded dragon can live for 20 years!

Now here’s the science of it
very important!! Forget everything you know about mammals, Bearded dragons are reptiles, they do not make there own heat and therefore require less food then mammals, In the wild a bearded dragons goal from birth is to grow fast. The faster they grow the more likelihood that they will survive to mate and lay or fertilise eggs. for this reason Bearded dragons are programmed to seek out Protein, namely insects and small mammals, lizards and snakes. Bearded dragons age and life stages are accelerated as they eat protein, so keeping your beardy on crickets and pinkies all their life will greatly reduce their lifespan, hence the 3 -5 years they tend to live in captivity. In zoo's, who understand this process beardies can live till 20, maybe more provided that the high protein diet is gradually replaced by nutritious, high calcium veg within the first year.So if you want to have a beardy for a long time, follow the above guidelines.


What equipment do I need to keep them?

ahh the big question, Ok Firstly a reptile Enclosure is called a Vivarium. Sometimes if plants and water features are involved this is called a Terrarium. But for Beardies its a Vivarium or Viv for short.

HOUSING:

Beardies are best house in a viv suitable for large snakes. My recommendation is a long wooden box with 2 sliding glass screens on the front and a suitably placed vent. Size is very important and if I may be so bold to quote myself here is an excerpt from one of my posts explaining this:

"If your gonna get them at roughly 6 - 8 weeks old, which is the usual age they become available in pet shops, then there are things to consider. Before I start though forget about the mesh terrariums you see in pet shops, suitable for several pet lizards yes, but not beardies, beardies are a Large lizard compared to many others on the pet market and have different
requirements.Don’t use an aquarium to keep them in, it can be done with a mesh top, but the cleaning will be difficult, Amongst other problems.

A cage like set-up as seen with Chameleons is not suitable, nor is a vivarium that is just tall and not long. Beardies are SemiTerrestial, which means the live on the ground and climb to bask. they need lots of floor space.

Firstly I recommend a snake enclosure like vivaria, made of melamine faced wood with sliding glass at the front.This set up makes access easy and more importantly holds heat well, I can heat my 7 foot vivaria with one 60 watt spotlight, which they bask under. I placed polystyrene sheets on the top of the vivarium for insulation, although I also have a vent on the top too. but bare in mind they are in a warm apartment so I cant vouch for this in a cold room like a garage, which may require more heat sources.

The reason I recommend melamine faced wood is that its water proof so it wont get spoiled or damp and is wipe clean.They are allot cheaper to build yourself or have a friend who’s handy with wood knock one together for ya,

the most expensive piece is the glass,
your looking at 100 euro for two sheets with polished and rounded edges. lengths of plastic glass runners (the slots in which the glass fits into, and slides upon) are available DIY stores, I got mine from homebase but they were a bit pricey for two lengths of plastic, around 17 euro each.
The wood cost me 80 euro, so all in all it cost around 300, (Including the lights and heat mat) to build a 7 foot by 2 by 2 vivarium.

If I was to buy that premade, It would easily cost me 1000 euro.

So bearing in mind that Beardies grow fast and they don’t like to feel exposed (as in the wild an easily visible beardie is a soon to be dead beardy) your faced with a Problem: Having A Vivaria that’s small enough for two baby beardies to feel comfortable and safe, and having a vivaria big
enough to house the two fully grown adults, which they will soon become.

You have two options;

1: Buy a small 2 - 3 foot vivaria only to have to keep buying larger ones as they grow, eventually getting to the full size Which would mean buying 2 or possibly 3 vivariums in one year.(very expensive!)

or 2: do what I did, I built a 7 foot Vivaria as I said, but made a petition wall inside made out of melamine faced wood and placed it at 3 foot thus making it smaller (This was for 5 babies). Then as they grew I moved the "Wall" back to 5 foot which is where it is now, as they are not fully grown. When I need to I will simply remove the "Wall". Although the spare 2 foot is ideal for raising newly hatched neonates if I manage to breed them.
so this Saved me buying or building larger ones every few months.

So for 2 Baby Beardies I would recommend at least a 2 foot long, 2 foot high,(to keep the spot light at a safe distance) Vivarium. This will minimize fighting as they wont always be "in each others face".

For two 6 - 8 month old Beardies You will need 4 foot long minimum

For two adult Beardies you will need at least 5 foot. You will see Big beardies being kept in pet shops in small enclosures, but these are not permanent homes and therefore should not be taken as the correct way to keep them. They need space to explore, exercise, hunt, "get away from it all"(ie;Hide), And they certainly need a big enough enclosure so he/she doesn’t end up sitting in their own faeces!


SUBSTRATE:

NEWSPAPER
For babies Up to 5 months I recommend using Newspaper, Beardies kept on sand when small run the risk of Impaction of the gut caused by swallowing sand, this can be fatal. Young beardies are also messy because they eat more, so newspaper makes cleaning easy.

After 5 months you can think about a more attractive substrate like sand or bark. Both of these are good options. But if you want an ultra safe, Hygienic viv and don’t care what it looks like, newspaper is the best option, Needs to be changed every 3-4 days.

SAND
I only recommend using Coral sand designed for fish tanks with beardy's, its not a fine sand and will be easily noticed and spat out by a beardy if some gets on his food. Bearded dragons Do not come from a sandy desert, they are from a semi-arid region featuring rocks and shrubbery, like a dry cracked wasteland. sometimes they can even be found on the outskirts of forests. So a fine sand I don’t recommend, it gets up their nose, in their mouths, and can cause serious problems. Also there is a new product on the market which is a sand made from Calcium, the idea is that if they swallow some accidentally then at least its good for them, again I don’t recommend this, Beardies don’t and shouldn’t eat sand or be encouraged to do so.

Many people don’t use coral sand and get along fine, but I’m not taking the risk, I like to provide a naturalistic environment and creating a sandy desert for them is not naturalistic. Coral sand doesn’t have the sandy desert look, but it is Cheaper, Safer and still quite nice. It also lets beardies dig which they enjoy doing. Coral sand needs to be replaced or topped up once every 12 months provided that faeces, urates and soiled sand is removed daily and that once every 2 months or so the sand is removed, and the floor area cleaned and disinfected and allowed to dry before returning the sand. Sand can also be washed but it takes a long time to dry.

BARK
Bark is a good option but it does soak up liquid and can start to smell quickly. Its a good place for bacteria to live in so it needs regular changing. In saying that beardies don’t really live on bark chippings in the wild but its a functional, safe, relatively cheap option.

PAVING SLABS
These are a great idea to incorporate into the vivarium, they make a good feeding area and are good for the beardies nails. They need to be taken out and washed, disinfected and well dried out about once a month.

LIGHTING:

Bearded dragons require UVA/UVB lights, usually available in the form of a fluorescent tube the runs the length of the viv. They have a range of about 20 inches so this should be taken into account when positioning the tube. anything after this and the light is useless, Having a climbing area allows beardies to get closer to the light and benefit from the rays. The UVA/UVB is used by the beardies to absorb vitamin D3, which is needed by beardies to use the calcium they eat. It is also essential for its other physiological and even psychological effects. These need replacing every 6 - 8 months as they loose their effectiveness, but they are cheap enough to buy. Make sure the Tube light has the correct spectrum for the beardies, the easy way to do this is to buy lights specifically made for Desert Lizards, such as Reptiglow (tm) lights. I use a Reptiglow (tm)10.0 tube in my Viv.

In conjunction with this a spot light should be used over a basking area made from raised rocks or wood. A spot light will heat the Vivarium and the beardies will come here to bask when they want to heat up. These are available in different colours although for beardies I recommend yellow
light, as it provides a natural light colour. Studies have Shown that Bearded dragons are healthier and happier in A Brightly lit Vivarium. This is why I don’t recommend blue, green etc, lights.

You can buy Mercury Vapour bulbs which give off heat and UVA/UVB light, these cost around 100 euro and need replacing every 6 - 8 months so are not very economical, also because beardies require large vivariums the light will only have an effective range above the basking spot. For this reason Tube lights are recommended. Take great care when placing the Lights, the basking spot should not reach above 35 Degrees and the Beardies should not be able to reach either the Spotlight or the Tube, as they may get
burned.

HEAT MAT:
A heat mat about a 3rd the length of the Viv should be placed under the substrate and turned on at night, to provide a nigh time ambient temperature of around 22 degree Celsius. There are many scare stories about heat mats burning beardies, most modern heat mats designed for
reptiles are safe, although there should be a few inches between the heat mat and the surface so the beardies cannot sit directly on the mat, I can place my hand on my heat mat indefinitely and it does not burn, its just a nice warm temperature. the Idea of the heat mat is to warm the whole Viv, so it should be hidden and the beardies not encouraged to sit upon it. Mine don’t, preferring to dig little hollows in the corners or under rocks to sleep in.

HOT ROCKS:
Should be avoided for beardies, in my opinion. Beardies have evolved to seek heat from above, so they cannot judge temperature from below, and may get burned by hot rocks. Unlike heat mats hot rocks are not designed to heat the whole Viv, but for the animal to sit upon it, this is why I
believe they are an unnecessary risk. With good a quality heat mat and lighting, these are not required.

DECOR AND DESIGN
Decor should include of a climbing area, such as Java wood. A basking spot big enough for all the beardies to sit separately on it, a large dark rock is a good idea, as it absorbs heat and stays warm at night, helping to keep a nice ambient temperature. Other alternative basking spots are required if you plan on keeping more then 3 beardies, especially if you keep more then one male. This reduces fighting. Rocks should be dotted around the viv too, as well as a cave for retreat. The cave must be placed in a cooler part of the viv and not above the heat mat or below the light, as the cave can trap heat and become a death trap for beardies. Also a nice open space for running should be included.

FEEDING DISH:
A small dish full of a fresh mix of veg should be placed in the same spot every day for adults.

WATER:
Several shallow water dishes should be placed in the warm end of the viv, make sure the dish is easy to get out of if they fall in, and shallow, but deep enough to immerse the beardies Nares (Nostrils). I like to use a saucer for babies. Beardies may also like to sit in the water, which is good for them as it helps them to shed their skin. Beardies often defecate in their water so this should be monitored and cleaned if required. water should be changed daily.

VENT:
A vent should be placed on an exposed part of the beardies Viv, to allow air to circulate, but make sure it doesn’t let out all the heat (Or the Beardies!). Its a good idea to air out the beardies viv daily for a few minutes, under supervision to avoid escapees of course.

That’s the main equipment and accessories required, as you can see now there is more to keeping reptiles the just putting them in a hot box and adding crickets.

What happens if they fight?

Beardies will fight, especially in a crowded or too small viv. that’s why you see so many adults missing toes or the ends of their tail. Feeding twice a day for babies and having adequate space and multiple basking arrangements reduces the chances of interspecies mutilation or worse, A
hungry beardy will try to eat another smaller beardie even if they have always lived together without a hitch. For sub adults and adults having a plate of fresh veg available all day means that they have an easier option then killing one of their friends for food, so this should be made
available. Keeping a beardie alone id the easiest way out of this.

Why do they wave their arms and bob their heads?

This is the beardies way of communicating and one of the most fascinating things about these lizards.

ARM WAVING:
An arm wave usually means submission, It is seen in subordinate males, when establishing a
pecking order, when feeding, and when a female accepts a male to mate.

For instance if two beardies are stalking the same cricket, the smaller of the two will usually "wave" as if to say "take the cricket I wont fight you, your bigger then me" This is a submissive display.

Its also seen when a smaller beardy mounts a larger on a basking site, this means "I’m just basking, I don’t mean any harm, so don't attack me"

Its also a way for beardies to recognise their own species, they can be seen in the wild waving around newly encountered lizards, if they wave back its another beardie and is safe be around and maybe mate with!

HEAD BOBBING:
Head bobbing signifies Dominance, accompanied by a blackening and puffing out of the "Beard". It is usually followed by arm waving from nearby smaller beardies. Typically the Largest male will head bob the most and display the blackest beard. It is seen when establishing a pecking order, or reminding the other beardies who the boss is.It is also a pre mating display of vigour, and is very impressive to watch I dominant males.

TAIL CURLING:
Another behaviour is tail curling, when a beardie wants to show that he is alert and active, his tail raises in a slight curve. It can be seen when a beardie is startled, Running, Hunting.

STALKING:
Bearded dragons also stalk prey like a cat, they get very low and flat and move in very slow, fluid steps. Its another very entertaining to watch behaviour.

There are many more behaviours which can be seen, this is the benefit of keeping 2 or 3 beardies.

In Conclusion
I cannot go into Health issues or Breeding here, because they are a whole subject in themselves and I fear I’ve already taken up some serious space here!:o But there ya go, that’s my guide to the basic requirements, care and feeding of the Bearded Dragon. It really is a fantastic animal to keep, but as you can see there is allot of things to learn and consider, If anyone reading this is considering one I recommend two things first:

1: Buy a professionals book, like the ones published by Advanced Vivarium Systems ltd (tm)For all my advice I cannot compare to an actual herpetologist on this subject and for this reason I recommend a good book, it will go into greater detail the I can here and provide invaluable reference in the future.

2: If your in Dublin Talk to Ben!! of reptile haven in Dublin’s fishamble street, he has been keeping reptiles of all kinds before most of them were ever available here and can give great, solid advice. If you live in Kilkenny or surrounding counties take a trip to the Reptile village and talk to the guys there, they are professional zoologists and are only too happy to offer advice, the kind you wont find in books.:cool:

In fact Just about everything I've said here, if not based on my own experience is based on exactly the advice given by Reptile village’s owner, (Who also does research for National Geographic on reptiles), Ben of Reptile Haven, and several much more experienced friends of mine.

So there you all go, hope I didn't bore you all to tears, And happy Beardy keeping.;)

BlackCat2008

Hi, I am new to boards but have been running a small rescue centre for cats and dogs for 18yrs I will post a care sheet as soon as i can mean while if u have any questions on cats or dogs i'll be happy to try to answer them. here's a start all cats and dogs male and female should be neutered and vaccinated and any animal u are not sure of thier back round should be tested for diseases so u know were u stand with them.Testing is now cheaper with nearly all vets useing the new testing kits available FOR EXSAMPLE: Cats testing positive for FIV can live long and healthy lives, but should only be kept as house pets so they don't spread the disease to other cats. Never and I repeat never be afraid to ask your vet questions, write anything you want to ask down and bring them with you along with pen and paper to write the answers.If you are paying for a service you feel you are getting no answers from change to another vet a good vet will be willing to answer any questions you have.

BlackCat2008

These are recipe's from the book "The secrets" I was sent free in an e-mail and share them with you's.

Bad Breath Banishers - Dog food Recipe

2 cups brown rice flour.
1 Tablespoon activated charcoal (find this at drugstores, not the briquet's!)
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 egg
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
2/3 cup low fat milk

Preheat oven to 400F. Lightly oil a cookie sheet. Combine flour and charcoal. Add all the other ingredients. Drop teaspoonfuls on oiled sheet, about 1 inch apart. Bake 15-20 minutes. Store in airtight container in the refrigerator.

Pavlov's Mouth Watering Treats.

2 eggs - beaten
1 cup cooked rice - or bulgur
1 cup cooked veggies - see note
1 tb chopped parsley - opt.
1 cup grated cheese
1 tb brewers yeast

Note: Veggies could be potatoes, zucchini, peas, carrots, etc.and should be grated or mashed.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix all ingredient, well. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake for about 12 minutes or until set and lightly browned. Cool and store in airtight container in the refrigerator.


Bacon Bits For Dogs

6 slices cooked bacon, crumbled
4 eggs, well beaten
1/8 cup bacon fat
1 cup water
1/2 cup non-fat dry milk powder
2 cup graham flour
2 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup cornmeal

Mix ingredients with a strong spoon; drop heaping tablespoonfuls onto a greased baking sheet. Bake in a 350 oven for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and leave cookies on baking sheet in the oven over night to dry out. Yields about 4 dozen dog cookies.

BlackCat2008

Doggie Delights

1 up whole wheat flour
1/2 cup grated cheese
1/2 cup cooked peas or carrots
1/4 lb margarine
1 clove crushed garlic

Mix room temperature cheese and margarine together, adding peas/carrots, garlic and flour. Add enough milk to help form a ball. Chill 1 hour,roll onto floured surface and cut into shapes. Preheat oven to 375 F. Bake for 15 min.or until slightly brown.

Vizsla stew.

2 cups barley
1/2 cup wild rice
9 cups chicken broth
4 cups rabbit ~ boned *see note*
1/2 cup kale ~ chopped fine
1/2 cup asparagus ~ chopped fine
1/2 cup lima beans ~ chopped fine
1/2 cup carrots ~ chopped fine
1 cup potato ~ chopped fine
4 cloves garlic ~ chopped fine
1/3 cup canola oil
1 cup yogurt, skim milk

In a large pot, place the bones and the chicken broth. Bring to a rapid boil.
Add the long cooking wild rice and barley, reduce to a simmer and cover. After 20min. add the rabbit, cook another 30 min.
Wash and chop the veg, place in a mixing bowl, add oil and yogurt, mix.
Allow Barley and wild rice to cool. Remove bones. Drain liquid if needed. Pour into mixing Boil and mix well.
Refrigerate or freeze left overs in portions in separate containers.
*note: 2 rabbits, 4-6 pounds, bone the rabbit and cube to the size for your dog. Add the bones to the chicken broth.
Note frozen veg may be used, run under cold water to defrost.

dohc

Any chance on a snapping turtle caresheet i have one a few months he is bout 5 or six inchs in diameter i have a 4 foot tank with a basking light and uv light but no substrate or anything as he is quiet messy just loking for some extra pointers

05D

Hi All, I recently got a new dog which is going to stay out the back during the day and indoors at night. He has a kennel out the back but I'm afraid he is going to be too cold considering the weather we are having!!what is the best way to keep him warm or insulating his kennel? Would dog clothes suit??Help appreciated!Regards.

05D

Hi There,Hope someone can help me. I recently got a ten month old miniature Schnauzer male. I have notices that he shake excessively. I don't mean shaking with fear but shaking his whole body like they do when they get out of the bath for example. He's seems very happy but he must shake like this around 30 times a day! Everytime he gets up from lying down or even when he's playing he has a good shake. Would anyone know any reasons for this? He was at the vet for a check up last saturday she said he looked in great nick. Just don't want him to be going mad!!Some advice would be great!Thanks05D

The Sweeper

Cat and Kitten Care Sheet

“Of all God's creatures, there is only one that cannot be made slave of the leash. That one is the cat. If man could be crossed with the cat it would improve the man, but it would deteriorate the cat.” - Mark Twain

Someone on the forums pointed out recently that there was no care sheet for cats and kittens, so here's my two bob. (Actually it's more like 20 bob, but hey.)

So You Want to Own a Cat?

When choosing any animal for a pet it’s important to do your research. This applies even more readily to the domestic cat, simply because of the sheer number of unwanted cats that are put to sleep every year. A single, un-neutered female cat can be responsible for nearly half a million progeny from her extended (and also un-neutered) family tree in the space of just seven years.

Cats make truly wonderful pets, but they’re different to a dog in one very noticeable way – you get out of a cat only what you put into them in the first place. Dogs are naturally a pack animal so they respond strongly to the slightest interaction. Cats have the capacity to be very independent, and some people translate this into cats needing less time than a dog. While this is true on paper, the more time you put into your cat, the more fun, affectionate, loyal and playful your cat will be.

Keep in mind that one of the top reasons that cats are surrendered to shelters is toileting problems, with allergies, excessive vocalisation and the owner moving house also showing high on the list.

Allergies

A huge number of cats are handed in to pounds and shelters every year because their owners either discover an allergy, or have a new baby and are worried about allergies.

If you have never owned a cat before, get some exposure to a home that has cats, or to cats themselves, so you can judge if you’re going to have an allergic reaction. This can manifest in the form of sneezing, an itchy nose, watering eyes, sore throat, wheezing and swelling of any nicks or scratches you get from the cat during play.

There are ways around your allergies if you still want to own a cat. Your allergic reaction will calm down over time and prolonged exposure to the cats. You can help this process along by reducing the amount of cat hair and dander in your home by vacuuming and dusting more often, restricting your cat to only certain areas of your house (NOT your bedroom!), and also, believe it or not, wiping your cat down once or twice a week with a warm, wet facecloth. Also wipe down furniture where the cat sits, or choose a favourite sitting place and use a throw blanket that you can wash often to protect your furniture.

Pedigree or Moggy?

Pedigree breeding in the cat world results in similar outcomes to pedigree breeding in the dog world. Some pedigree cats will be genetically predisposed to ailments that shorten their lifespan. Additionally, moggies are more susceptible to the survival of the fittest, so a moggy kitten will often be more genetically robust and may live longer than a pedigree cat. (This also strongly depends on each cat’s living situation.)

Keep in mind that there are so many unwanted cats in shelters, you will often pick up a pedigree-look-alike, so if it’s the appearance of the cat you want, then check out your nearest pounds and shelters first.

Should I Adopt a Cat or a Kitten?

A cat will learn most of its behaviour, good and bad alike, in the first year of its life. If you want to have input into that behaviour, you need to be around for that stage. Kittens start to include solid foods in their diets after four or five weeks, and are usually fully weaned off their mothers by six weeks. Leaving kittens with their mother until eight or 12 weeks is useful because this is the point at which they learn that rowdy behaviour – teeth and claws – hurts!

Plenty of human handling and interaction at six to twelve weeks is important to prevent your kitten from turning into a scaredy cat. This age is also when the kittens’ mum will teach them to use a litter tray. They’ll often pile into the litter with her and imitate her actions, scratching about to find a good spot to use.

There are some advantages to adopting a juvenile cat of six to twelve months – they are better able to look after themselves if you are introducing them to a household that already contains pets, but still very trainable. Cats reach fully grown, filled-out maturity by two years of age. Older cats of a year onwards also make excellent pets – they are more independent and able to take care of themselves in a new household, but they are still able to learn better habits – it just might take more persistence to train them.

One cat or two cats?

If you're adopting a kitten or cat, give some thought to adopting two. I've owned cats on their own, and I currently have a multi-cat household. I can honestly say, after seeing the interaction in a multi-cat household, I would never go back to owning one single cat.

Saying that, some cats would prefer to be the only cat in the house, and a good shelter will tell you which cat should be a solo pet. Adopting more than one moggy does double your food bills, worming bills and it runs the risk of doubling your vet bills, so you shouldn't take it on lightly, but some cats truly thrive in a multi-cat situation. They eat, sleep and play together and keep each other company when you're not home.

Inside, Outside or Both?

The argument about keeping cats indoors is a heated one. There are plenty of extremely good reasons to keep cats as indoor-only pets. These are set against the gut-feeling of a lot of people that it is cruel to restrict a cat to the indoors.

Some people feel that cats are naturally inquisitive, roaming animals that like an extended territory and like to exercise their hunting instincts, and if you keep them inside you stifle those behaviours. On the flip side, cats that are allowed access to the outdoors are proven to have a shorter life expectancy, and their life will usually be ended by a traumatic incident, such as being hit by a car or attacked by a dog. Outdoor cats are also susceptible to fatal viruses transmitted through fighting with other cats. The generally accepted averages are that an indoor cat will live on average 12 years, and an outdoor cat will live on average less than five years.

The indoor/outdoor issue is something you need to consider very strongly yourself. If you want your cat to have access to outdoors, you need to accept that one day it just might not come back. Additionally if you allow your pet to roam, you have no control over what may befall it. You also need to accept that there is a good chance you will be exposed to higher vet bills if something happens to your cat. (Also consider your neighbours – you will be extremely unpopular if your cat keeps crapping in their garden.)

Whatever the outcome of the indoor/outdoor argument, you should always lock your cat up at night for its own safety. A daytime solution that compromises for both camps is to allow cats restricted outdoor access by building a cat run or enclosure for them.

Neutering Your Cat

It is essential that you have your cat neutered. Cats can be neutered early, and evidence shows earlier neutering is beneficial to the cat. By early, I mean as young as seven or eight weeks. See the following links!

http://cats.about.com/cs/spayneuter/a/earlyneuter.htm
http://www.cfa.org/articles/health/early-neuter.html

A healthy, well fed female cat can come into season as young as four months of age (though the first season is usually around six months of age). If she isn't impregnated in her first season, she will come into season again every two to three weeks.

Research is dispelling the myths around neutering - a neutered cat will not have stunted growth, become lazy or be less affectionate to the owner.

Worms, Fleas, Vaccinations

Your cat needs to be vaccinated against diseases that could be fatal, even if it is an indoor cat. Indoor cats escape outdoors, plus people’s personal situations change all of the time, and plenty of cats that once belonged to ‘forever homes’ end up on the streets and in pounds and shelters.

Talk to your vet about what your cat should be vaccinated against. Kittens should usually be vaccinated at eight weeks with a booster shot at 12 weeks. Vaccinations cover Feline Leukaemia Virus, Feline Enteritis, Feline Respiratory Disease and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus.

Worming – after six months of age, all cats should be wormed every three months. Kittens need to be wormed more often, so ask your vet what regime they would recommend. You can buy a combined flea treatment and treat for fleas at the same time. Treat for fleas more often if your cat shows signs of having fleas.

Worming treatments come in different forms – pills, syringes of paste, pipettes of liquid to be applied straight to the skin. Each method will have instructions on how to administer it. Pills are slightly more difficult to administer, but usually the experience is over more quickly than syringing paste into the cat's mouth. Whatever method you choose, make sure you have the treats handy to reward the cat after you treat them!

NEVER worm a cat using a treatment meant for dogs.

What Do I Need For My New Cat/Kitten?

• Something to eat
• Something to drink
• Somewhere to sleep
• Somewhere to pee and poo
• Something to scratch
• Something to play with

Eating

Cats have a far higher animal-based protein requirement than dogs. Years ago the family dog thrived on the leftovers of dinner only because a dog’s requirement for protein versus carbohydrate is far more balanced than a cat’s. Cats need a very high protein count in their diets. The protein in dried cat food is mostly plant-based protein, and while sufficient it isn’t as good quality as the protein count in a good quality tinned wet food, or even in raw meat.

Subsequently you should mix and match your cat’s food. Always buy the best quality you can afford, and learn to read the labels to judge how much of the protein in the food is from animal sources, and how much is plant protein.

Dry food helps keep your cat’s teeth clean and tartar free. Wet food helps keep the protein balance up high and also helps to keep your cat hydrated. An adult cat will be very happy with two meals a day – one dry, one wet food. Shallow ceramic or stainless steel bowls are the best receptacles for food and water for cats because they don’t retain unpleasant smells the way plastic can.

Drinking

Your cat should always have a supply of clean, fresh water to drink. Change the water every day (have you ever picked up a glass of day-old tap water from your bedside table?) and if you have indoor cats, try having more than one water bowl in the house.

Cow’s milk isn’t good for cats. Some people like to feed it every so often as a treat, but it can give your cat an upset stomach and diarrhoea, especially if your cat is lactose intolerant.

Sleeping

Your cat will, quite famously, sleep anywhere. However, it is a good idea to have a specific cat bed that smells familiar and is comfortable. It comes in useful even after your cat has settled into the household, because if you ever have workmen around to your house, or you throw a party, your cat will be happier in a safe, confined area away from the drama. Move food, water, litter and their bed into a room away from the hubbub, and your cat will weather the change far more happily than if they have free run of the house while you have party guests or workmen around.

Litter Trays

There are a lot of threads on this forum already about which cat litter to use. There are some generic guidelines – multi-cat households should have one litter tray per cat plus one extra. Keeping the cat litter tray clean from the start, by regularly removing the clumped pieces or cleaning the whole tray out, will help to ward off problems with the cat refusing to use the tray and instead using a basket of clothes, or a pile of paperwork, or the ends of the curtains, as a toilet.

A useful tip is to buy a cat carrier big enough to facilitate the litter tray – tray goes inside carrier, providing a covered area that the cat may be happier using as a toilet, and also you don’t have to constantly look at a litter tray. This method has an added bonus - you’ll find that when it comes to take the cat somewhere, they have no problem being put into the carrier.

Scratching

If you have a cat that has access to indoors, it will definitely, positively, no bones about it, scratch your furniture. Scratching has two uses – it’s a work out for the toe muscles, rubbing dead tips off the claws and helping to stretch the tendons in the feet. It’s also a means of scent marking territory. The couch is a common scratching post because it’s a central area that everyone congregates on.

You can ward off destruction of your possessions if you buy scratching posts for your cat from the outset. Lengths of sisal rope wrapped around wood or piping are very popular scratching posts, as are old pieces of carpet. Encourage your cat to use the post by praising them when they scratch it.

Playing

Cats love to play. Playing with them helps you bond with them and helps keep their activity levels and their interest up. Good toys are Ping-Pong balls, tiny fabric mice about the size of your thumb, and shoelaces. The Ping-Pong balls and the fabric mice are especially popular for solo games – the smaller mice are good because the cat can throw them in the air and then dart manically after them. Shoelaces are good for you to join in the game, because your hands will be safe at one end while kitty shreds the bejesus out of the other!

Behaviour

We’re just back from the shelter, and kitty hates me!

Before you bring a new cat or kitten into your home, set up one room that kitty will stay in for the short term. This one room should have bed, food, water and litter tray. This room is the first place your new kitty should be allowed out of the transport cage, and be warned – the first thing they might do is bolt for the nearest piece of furniture, which they’ll hide under. Cats do not like change. Some are bomb-proof, but often kitty will be withdrawn, very quiet and even refuse to eat or drink for the first 24-48 hours of coming into a new home. Many new owners wonder where the hell the friendly, miaowing headbutter they met at the shelter has disappeared to.

It is important not to push or harass your new pet during this settling-in period. Trying to manhandle them out from behind the couch and throwing toys at them are not the way to go. The best thing you can do is stay near your new cat, and talk to it in soothing tones. Praise it as soon as it ventures out from its hiding place, but let it come to you.

The first place the cat will explore will be the room you set up as kitty base-camp. (It’s useful if this can be the room you intend the litter tray to remain in.) It’s a good idea to leave the cat in this room until it shows a desire to leave it and investigate the wider world. In some cats this can take 24-28 hours, in others it might take precisely 15 minutes. Change the supply of food and water you leave out for your new cat, even if it is untouched. Cats respond strongly to smell, and even a calm, adjusted cat may turn its nose up at ‘stale’ food or water.

It usually takes no more than a week for kitty to go from cowering under the dresser to ruling the whole household, which is when the real fun of cat-ownership begins.

Some kitty body language

A straight-up-in-the-air tail is a sign of pleasedness and attachment to the owner - kittens put their tails straight up in the air so mamma cat can clean their bottoms, and this remains in adult domestic cat behaviour as an indication of happiness.

A straight up tail with a kink at the top is a sign of happy curiosity - often it even looks like a question-mark!

A horizontal tail, held out level with the cat's body, is a contented tail. Sometimes if your cat is wandering about with a contented tail, and you call them, they may flick their tail upwards while continuing to walk. This is their version of "Hey there, I hear ya, I'm just doin something else right now!"

A tail tucked under the body or held closely downwards is an unhappy tail.

A flicking tail is a sign of uncertainty in a cat - especially if accompanied by one ear pointing backwards. Kitty is not sure what to do next. A smaller version of this is when just the tip moves - in an asleep cat, this indicates kitty is dreaming. If the cat is awake, it's usually a sign that they're waiting to see what happens next.

A lashing tail is a sign of extreme irritation in a cat.

Ears - cats' ears have stiff cartilage that hold them upright. However they can still move them. When a cat is very relaxed, often their ears will flatten slightly and slope off to the sides. Some people mistake this for a sign of irritation, but if the cat's tail is still and their body is relaxed, it's a sign of being chilled out.

This shouldn't be confused with angry cat, whose ears are flattened against its head!

Finally the most obvious piece of cat behaviour is when they inflate their tail fur and the fur on their back. This is an effort to make themselves look bigger, and is an automatic reaction to feeling threatened or getting a fright. Assuming this isn't a reaction to you, you should be safe if you handle your cat - I've picked up many an inflated cat to remove them from the situation that's causing the reaction!

SCI

Sonoran dwarf desert boa (Bci) aka mexican boa care.
http://www.boa-constrictor.co.uk/sonoranboacaresheet.htm