38kWh Ioniq

Interesting, I wasn’t aware of the opening/closing door knack to power down the Ioniq. I always just keep the car powered on when sitting in it as I like to keep the radio on.

My smax will fully power down automatically after approx 5 min once engine switched on in order to save the 12 volt. A bit of a pain at times but I suppose it’s better than a flat battery

Same applies in the eNiro - if I'm stopping and waiting in the car for a bit, I know not to actually power off. Means that even in winter, running the cabin heating on a low setting, heated seat etc uses very little juice and the 12v battery stays topped up from the traction battery.

On a related note - you can press the power button twice in quick succession without pressing the footbrake to switch on all cabin electrics, allowing you to adjust anything you want to such as charge timer, radio, steering wheel heating etc. As my car doesn't have an app, I've done that a few times over the winter when I know I'm only 5-10 minutes from setting off on a trip. However, every time I've done so, the car was still plugged in and charging, meaning that any electricity used was coming from the house mains - bar on one particular morning last month. What this taught me is that the double-press of the power button will switch everything on alright, but not activate the topping up of the 12v battery! We were slightly longer than we expected to be, so the car was running heated seats, steering wheel, rear windscreen defroster and heated cabin air solely from the 12v for about 15 minutes, giving me all sorts of warnings and reduced functionality when I actually got in to set off … for the airport. It was a bit stressful wondering if the car was going to just stop on the way there and cause us to miss our flight. As it turned out, the 40 minute drive was enough to charge it back up and I made sure to leave the jump starter easily accessible inside the car before locking it, just in case. Thankfully we had no issues unlocking or driving home three (frosty) days later, but the possibility of coming back to a dead 12v in the airport car park was at the back of my mind the whole time we were away.

Bjorn Nyland have reported that the Hyundai have a tendency of non-linear charge meter and the low power mode kicks off quite early compared to some other car. If you consider 60% indicated 50% remaining you won't be far off I think.

Yes - I always turn the car fully on when hoovering it etc.

yeah it definitely considers at least AC anyways as the figure goes up if you sit in a parked car.

I dunno about the buffer. In my mind it shouldn't come into the equation as either the buffer was used up as part of the journey and should be considered in efficiency or it was still in the car. I had charged to 100% the day before the trip so buffer should have been full (if it gets charged at all, I always thought the buffer was so you didn't need to charge the cells to their max to get to 100%)

The figures are a little complicated by the fact they don't include the first 4% off the battery but that's 1.5kWh or even round it up to 2kWh.

In my mind it doesn't add up that a car that is charged to 100% can use 28kWh (26 from efficiency + 2 being a guess) of power and then take 30kWh(allowing for 10% charger inefficiency) of charge to bring it back to 100%. A difference of 2kWh is over 5% of the battery in the difference.

The only things I can think of that explain it are:

• Car incorrectly read SoC at the start of the journey or the end (so I didn't actually use 75% of the battery)
• Car incorrectly displayed the efficiency
• Zappi incorrectly measured the energy used
• There is a difference between charging to 100% on the charger in work and the zappi

The negative should be attached last and on a chunky something earthed to chassis away from the battery to minimise the risk of a hydrogen explosion. An explosion triggered by a spark is a very remote possibility but why risk it by connecting directly at the battery.

I cant really see a suitable place for the negative on the chassis

Is it ok to connect the positive clamp to that lug circled above (is this what the lug is there for?) or should the clamp be placed directly on to the nut/bolt of the positive?

grand and for negative, do you use the other little lug circled also?

Found the same problem after buying a 38KW last year.
Any road surface dampness, and needed care accelerating from start, or breaking quickly in the wet.
Had a few slides and near misses. Started to feel as unsafe as in my previous old bangernomics diesel.

When I bought the car, it had on the front almost new pair of "Autogreen Sport Chaser SC2" , and rear were a pair of "Michelin Energy Saver", plenty of thread depth. However the front appear to be budget summer tyres, which is probably a problem combination, along with some previous comments that the car doesnt have much front weight.

Anyway, there were some recommendations here and on reddit for the Ioniq 38KW, to go for the Michelin CrossClimate 2 or 3.
I got 4 of them fitted a month ago, and no more problems with quick acceleration or quick braking regardless of the weather. Ive not noticed a loss in range, although I think the biggest impact on range is my speed.

Also using cross climates. On about 30k km on them, rear ones are down to 3.2mm so probably need to go soon, front still on 4.6mm. I did rotate them and one stage.

I only really notice the lack of grip pulling off at some junctions. Cross climates definitely did help

Yes notice a good bit of wheel spin with Firestone Firehawks, due a change in next couple of months so may try the cross climates.

The name Autogreen Sport Chaser, along with previous comments about ditch finders, makes me think "Autogreen Ditch Chaser".

Would it matter that the Hankook Ventus Prime 4 are summer tyres?