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Heat Pumps - post here.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭championc


    @fitzparker Can you adjust the flow temperature of you oil boiler ? If so, simulate a heatpump by reducing the flow temperature

    A heatpump should be able to be clipped onto the oil flow and return, but with even the grant, I think you will rarely escape with under €10k net 😮 - which is completely nuts.

    I hope someone proves me wrong on this



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭championc


    @Grey123 Your data there to me looks like short cycling. So your curve is still too high (as I previously pointed out)

    Look back at the graph I posted with the red line, and set your heatpump for the values on the black line under the red line, at +15 and -5

    So +15 = 25 and -5 = 35



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭Jo Satan


    image.png

    Here is the load from my house this morning, charging 2am to 5am with washing machine and dryer running.
    Heat pump rated 3kw using between 300w and 600w. The rest of the house using about 200w. So my heat pump is probably pushing 1.2 to 2.4 kw out.


    Regarding your heat pump short cycling when you lowered the flow temp.
    Did you put the room thermostat back to 20c?
    What power is the heat pump rated at?

    Heat pumps have minimum outputs based on their size, you mentioned having an 8kw Heat Pump, your minimum output could be 2 to 3kw which will cause the heat pump to short cycle at low flow temps if the system only needed a 4/5kw Heat pump.
    Weather compensation may not help an oversized system if the minimum power output is too high.
    You could look to see if the heat pump has a silent mode which may lower the minimum output.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Where you seeing the short cycle?, maybe a little bit on Sunday but Saturday looks like defrosts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Grey123


    Thanks for sharing this.

    I think my heat pump might be a 6kw but that’s based on asking ChatGPT. The model written in the machine is:

    • ERLQ006CAV3

    I left the thermostats at 30deg although have now turned them off. Not sure if they are really off or just have displays off? The quick spikes look to have stopped, not sure what I will see though. Too early.

    Your graph doesn’t have any real spikes does it just run smooth?

    It does have a silent mode I can see from there display although I don’t want to change multiple things at once.

    is 6kw pump more in size?

    The kitchen is now 23 degrees! A record! My wife will love me but only sustainable today as solar is paying for it.

    Edit: thinking of this now has burning off the thermostat has that turned off any signal to heat?



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  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,899 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Hadn't thought of defrosts but I thought the spikes look to be too often for that.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    A short cycle should have a period of little to no power (just circulation pump running) until the flow temperature gets low enough again



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭championc


    @Grey123 I feel that fact that the kitchen is suddenly hot confirms the heat curve being too high and short cycling.

    Essentially the unit is shutting itself down before it has a chance to really add heat into the UFH or Rads.

    So I expect further lowering will help further.

    Can I suggest you start by lowering the curve to 38 @ -5 and 27 at +15

    Wait 24hrs

    If still plenty hot, then lower by 2 at the cold end and -1 at the warm end every 24hr until you hit a sweet spot



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,899 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    That graph is showing full house load not just the heat pump I thought. It's spiking up to 2kw every 20 minutes or so between 8am and 12 today.I would expect to see a continuous draw under 1kw if the system was running well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭Jo Satan


    It runs smooth when its cold and cycles when its over 5c/6c outside.
    If your house is 23c when the flow temp is 40c you can try dropping it further if the cycling has stopped.


    It is a 6kw HP, it might be a little oversized, depends on your HLI
    Its minimum output is 1.8kw
    Its recommended minimum flow temp is 25c.
    It has a cold climate cop of 4.3 at a flow temp of 35c



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I was looking at ALM's graphs.. :facepalm: It does look like short cycling.

    The Heat curve being too low would cause cycling more than too high, If on radiators especially, as the flow temperature lowers the amount of heat that can be put into the house via each radiator reduces, Usually means either bigger radiators, or more radiators. I've done this myself by bumping up the temperature "limit" on all my rooms, to at least 20c - they cant call for heat but will take it if its there.

    is @Grey123 on radiators or underfloor?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭winklepicker2025


    hi all

    Any input on Nilan heat pump ???
    Thoughts on testing & commissioning of them ??

    Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Grey123


    Thanks. I finally found the menu so will drop my flow to 38 @ -5 and 27 at +15.

    For anyones (or my) future reference the how to is here:

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uDBTc5r0-og

    I will see how that runs for a day and go from there.

    Thank you. Will try now for a day.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 568 ✭✭✭Dont Be at It


    Some crazy comments in here about timers, and boosting, etc.

    Set the thermostat to your desired temperature and walk away. Don't touch it. No need to turn it down in summer or up in winter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Grey123


    By temperature limit do you mean the temperature on the thermostat? And how do they not call but take it?

    I am actually very confused by all this!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭championc


    For temperature limiters, it's a case of setting the temperature slightly higher than the desired temperature, ensuring there is a constant call for heat, rather than setting it for a temperature that you actually want, which will cause the unit to be turned on and off.

    So just set thermostats to 22 if you want rooms at 21, and if they hit 22, the curve is too high.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Grey123


    So I changed my weather compensation settings last night. Is this cycling? Bad for the pump?


    House temperature seemed decent this morning, not sure if it’s too early to tell

    IMG_1748.png


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Mine is on a tado system, so I have smart trvs., they are also the thermostat.

    I have 1 thermostat that controls the heat to the house, for me it's the hall, as that runs the middle of my house (bungalow), and the doors are open the majority of the time.

    I am trying to have as many radiators open as possible. The smart trv will stop the heat into the room so it doesn't get too hot. Hence limit not target



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭Jo Satan


    Your thermostats are set to the max, so they are calling for heat.
    Your flow temp was at 40c, you have dropped it to 38?
    So the temperature of the water in your system is higher than the flow rate you have set it too.
    So it looks like the heat pump responds to the call for heat, turns on, the water is hotter that the temp set for flow temp so it turns off. This then repeats.

    You could turn the heating off for a while, allow the water in systems temperature to drop, so that when you turn it back on the heat pump heats the water in the system up to to the flow temp you have set. Or you can wait till it drops, which may take a while as your house is just 15c cooler than than the water in your system.

    I do think you should turn your heating off, set your 1st point to 25c @ 15c outdoors and your second point to 33c @ -5c outdoors. Your display should show you your current flow temp somewhere, when it gets down to 33c turn the heating on and let it run for a while. Use a thermometer to measure the temp in your room and adjust the 2nd point up if required.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,659 ✭✭✭championc


    @Grey123 The first thing to look for is an overnight setback schedule, which you should set for maybe 18 or 19 deg. You don't want or need the house at 21 all day and night too.

    And yes, I would reduce the curve down to 25 @ +15 and 35 @ -5 and see how that goes.

    Data is KING !!!

    And it goes to show how much energy was actually being wasted. You are now lowering settings and getting more heat. I bet your daily power consumption is reducing too. Would be interesting to graph your daily meter readings from your HLI file.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 183 ✭✭johndoe11


    Might be worth noting that not all heat pumps operate in the same manner to measure against the heat curve setpoint, my unit a Bosch/IVT, uses a sensor called "radiator forward" (GT4) which is the reference point for measuring against the heat curve setpoint. This is somewhere between the flow and return temperatures, there is a specific sensor on a pipe external to the unit. My understanding is that some units also use return temp as means of controlling, including a Daikan unit my neighbour has.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 486 ✭✭flugel


    90's House - Heat Pump Install

    Hoping to add extension to rear of home and upgrading windows, doors and attic insulation minimum. Have had a BER Assessment / Report. Heat Loss Indicator I'm told would be 1.81 with these upgrades.

    Dont want to go digging up floor for UFH, afraid of what I could encounter.

    Air to Water with rads only, anyone done something similar for a 90's build?

    Lots of what I read as general comments online with people saying Air to Water not worth it in older property and without UFH, but I don't know how many of those commentators have first hand experience etc

    Hoping someone has good reports having gone Air to Water in similar situation



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 470 ✭✭andyd12


    Where can people see their HLI? I dont see it on my Part L report.

    Is it this?

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    HLI will be in the BER report you got when the BER was last done - not sure it can be retrieved from the SEAI but not sure.. you should have gotten a seperate long document with technical information of the heatloss and potential for various improvements



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,737 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Should be on the advisory report you got along with the BER assuming it was carried out using DEAP 4.0.

    Search with your MPRN here and if it is recent it should list both for download



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,737 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    This might be something that may work, not familiar with the app or Daikin.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,899 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Heat pumps not working well in older builds or with radiators is a myth so don't worry about that aspect.

    We only had our retrofit done a month ago but there has been some pretty crap weather to put it through it's pace. House was built in 1998. HLI was higher than yours. The house is more comfortable than it ever has been. We used to run the oil off stats to keep the house 21 degrees all day but it felt different to this.

    The heat pump just chugs along at a low power draw most of the time, consumption is noticeably higher on very cold days but that's to be expected.

    Would advise doing plenty of research, YouTube channels like Heat Geek, Urban Plumber and Glyn Hudson have a wealth of information.

    I found doing my own heat loss survey pretty benefiical, have a look at https://heatpunk.ie/ for doing this. It gave me a good frame of reference when installers were giving their own figures.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Grey123


    @Jo Satan

    I dropped my cold level from 45deg to 38deg and outside temp from 0 to -5deg so flattened my line. LWT was about 32deg this morning.

    Maybe I’m too low. Might turn off if it doesn’t settle.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭Jo Satan


    LWT is the temp of the water returning after heating the rads?
    I am not familiar with your heatpump but a quick google says
    Delta T / dT: This is the temperature drop across your heating system (Flow Temp - Return Temp). A standard, efficient delta-T for Daikin heat pumps is often considered to be around 5°C (dT5), though some systems, particularly with radiators, may be set higher (e.g., 10°C).

    So a delta of 6c looks about right.
    What's the room temp and power usage looking like?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Grey123


    @championc I agree data is key I still need to fix this but I know there is an issue


    Not sure how much I will save. It’s always hard to tell because when I plug the car in it dominates.


    My cold LWT is 37 will go from here. Will have a look at that site later.



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