38kWh Ioniq

€12K is probably what you’d get for it to sell it privately. Better off to keep it and forget about the warranty.

I have a 2022 one and my BMS software was updated during the summer. Not sure if its the same update but it had no impact on the charging port actuator. I'd say talk to the dealer before hand with your concerns. Get them to confirm the port is working before the service. If its a case that your the actuator works before the update and doesn't after, I don't see how it wouldn't be covered.

That seems like a relatively realistic number but even at that, without doing much looking there is a 2022 with 20k miles (30k KM) up north for €14.4k. Dropping 70k KM and gaining 2 years of warranty doesn't seem like awful value for €2.4K. It is a bit of faffing though! I would also need to sell our own Ioniq to fund the next one as I unfortunately do not have a spare €14k knocking about!

Car has let me down big time today.

Car drove 50km on the motorway no problem reached Galway but before I made it to where I was going in Galway a "limited power" with a turtle shows up.

I thought it was strange as I still had 20% battery left. But it was worse than I thought, it wasn't like regular turtle mode, I basically couldn't accelerate.

I turned it off an on a few times and the same message comes back within a few seconds of driving.

So currently waiting for breakdown to tow the car to the Galway Hyundai service place (who I've never used before, so I'm not a customer) and get them to have a look at it Monday

Good luck with it but expect not to be believed.

First classic Ioniq I've heard this happen to (on here).

no unfortunately, car was off too.

Take a look at this Leaf.

It goes from 37 percent to showing zero in about 3 kms.

Shows the basic idea of very weak cells.

The thing to remember here is that the car will die when the weakest cell runs out even if there's still plenty of energy in rest of pack.

Does anyone know the typical way a warranty issue like this gets resolved, like who do I contact etc.

I have got minor warranty stuff done before via the crowd I typically use for service, but I could always drive there. Not sure what the process is if the car isn't moving

If the car is still under warranty and with a Hyundai dealer they apply to Hyundai directly to approve warranty work.

Any update on the issue?

Hello. Is the 38 battery recall for all Ioniq 38's or just certain years etc?

hello,sorry to hear about your issues. what year and month is your Ioniq?

Here’s what AI says - might be of help to you OP:

A Hyundai battery dropping from 20% to 0% rapidly usually indicates a failure in the 12-volt battery's ability to hold a charge, a faulty battery management system (BMS), or a parasitic drain. This issue is commonly reported in newer Hyundai models (like Ioniq 5/6, Tucson, and i20) and often requires a software update or battery replacement. Here are the specific faults and causes for this behavior:

• 12V Battery Health (Most Common):The 12V battery is either failing or has reached the end of its life (typically 3–5 years). If the battery's capacity is severely reduced, it cannot hold a charge, causing voltage to drop suddenly.
• Parasitic Drain: Electrical components (such as an aftermarket GPS tracker, or a malfunctioning telematics module/BlueLink) continue drawing power when the car is off, draining the battery.
• Software Glitches/ECU Update: The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or Battery Management System (BMS) may have a bug that fails to properly charge the 12V battery, especially in electric/hybrid vehicles.
• ICCU Failure (EV/Hybrid Only): The Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) may not be properly charging the 12V battery from the main high-voltage battery, often triggering the "Battery Discharge Warning".
• Inadequate Driving Habit: Regular, short trips prevent the battery from fully recharging. 

Recommended Actions:

1. Check for "Battery Discharge Warning": This message indicates the 12V system is below 12.2–12.3 volts, often appearing when the engine is off.
2. Software Patch: Ask a dealership to check for any ECU/BMS software updates, which can resolve bugs.
3. Test Battery/Alternator: Have the 12V battery load-tested at a dealership or local auto parts store.
4. Use the 12V Reset Switch: Many newer Hyundais have a "12V BATT RESET" button to the left of the steering wheel, allowing you to restart the car if the battery has died. 

If you are experiencing this, are you noticing the issue after the car has been parked for several days, or does it happen immediately after turning it off?

It will be interesting to see if a new battery solves the problem ?

Am going to get the car back and replace the 12v myself. It's booked to go into my own dealers to investigate this week. (hopefully I've no issue getting there)

Yeah the 12V caused me some issues shortly after I bought it, so I changed it out. that was about 2 years ago. It's still under warranty from Halfords so I assume I'll get it replaced under warranty. This will be at least it's 3rd 12v battery on a 4 year old car, seems odd. The car is basically daily driven so its not like its being parked up for weeks/months on end.

The thing I fear about this is it a thing that every couple of years the car is going to randomly start reporting 20% more battery than it actually has due to a bad 12v? It's pretty unnerving.

Potential fun times ahead alright, when I get it back tomorrow I will start seeing if I can OBD scan to see cell voltages etc to see if I can see anything.