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Heat Pumps - post here.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Question for anyone with heatpump, solar , battery storage and EV, did you have to upgrade the standard 12kva esb network' connection?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,618 ✭✭✭JohnySwan


    I didn't, but if you were building a house and it had all of the above, a 16kva connection would be recommended. Having said that, I did upgrade my distribution board to an "enhanced" board. I monitor the board with temperature sensors and there's still some heat building up.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    If you are trying to fit all of it into a three hour window then it helps….I have all of the above but I only got a battery two weeks ago now and TBH I am struggling a bit to fit them all into the 3 hour period even with my 16kVA connection…Im pulling 17.5kW for the three hour slot My Zappi is the one stuggling that is loosing out a bit as that is the one that is modulating to keep me under my 80Amp breaker. The Zappi or the car is giving up at times as there isnt enough headroom it needs a min of 1.4kW, which is ok for now as Im not doing big mileage to need it on for the three hours.

    One caveat is that I do have a big ass inverter that is capable of charging at 200Amps into my battey so thats 10.5kW alone, when you add in the HP Im already up at 14-15kW and then there isnt much left for the EV. If I had an inverter that would charge at 100Amps I would probaly fit them all in no problem. 5kW +(Batt)+ 5kW (HP) + 7kw (EV) =17kW.

    This is only a winter issue as well as from March to November I wont have the space heating on at night so I should have plenty of room then.

    In answer to your question my thoughts are yeah I think it would help a lot and gives you options. If you dont upgrade then you will have to look at maybe the four hour smart plans to spread the load.

    With dynamic pricing coming next year having that headroom to pull the the extra bit might pay off as well. My house was a new build so I went with the enhanced from the get go as I knew I was going down the EV HP all electric house 5 years ago when building. From What I hear to upgrade can cost a couple of grand though.

    image.png

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,618 ✭✭✭JohnySwan


    What inverter have you got? My inverter also has load balancing, I can set a maximum import.

    Esbn costs are about 2k iirc, 25mm2 cable from meter to DB and then DB rewire to enhanced spec. Gets expensive fast, I would say anywhere from 3-4k all in, depending on the individual installation. That also assumes the existing electrical installation doesn't require any further upgrades.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,618 ✭✭✭JohnySwan


    12541.jpg

    €2,142 for upgrade from 12kva to 16kva.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    That's just the esb network's side about 1k for a new consumer board and new earth and potentially new tails



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Yeah the car is losing out on my side as well. Putting 5.4kwh into storage batteries, usually the dishwasher is on so I'm getting maybe 16kwh into the car over the three hours. I know I could push the grid limit on the zappi but I'm not comfortable doing that. Probably would need 20kva to be comfortable..I filled out the forms on the esb network's site so waiting for them to get back to me. No rush with it really. How much would a 6kw heatpump pull at night? 2 or 3kwh max?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    I have a temp sensor in our meter cabinet and smoke alarm. Temp rises a nice bit over the three hour period. Had a brand new meter fitted last year after and issue with the original smart meter

    1000029400.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Thegalwayman


    currently trying Havenwise app to control my heat pump. 3 mth trial. Not sure if it’s making much difference or not. May subscribe for a year after trial. Mitsubishi ecodan



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,618 ✭✭✭JohnySwan




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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    If you have underfloor it may be worth running it at night rate but with radiators your better off putting it into batteries and then using as needed.

    @championc I think yours tops out at about 1.2kW?

    My 12kW one goes to 3.6kW.

    Heat output is dependant on COP, it was at 0 freezing this morning so my COP was at about 3, so heat output is only currently about 10kW.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Victron Quattro 15 kVA, and yeah it has a grid limit of 80Amps and wont pull from the grid more than that but my Zappi also has a grid limit and I am happy its dropping power before the Quattro, it must be more conserative. I also have a few fail safe Node-RED automations that watch out for voltage drop and it will reduce charging if the volatge goes too low. Small bit worried my anti islanding will kick in if it goes mad low, Ive seen it touching 220V

    Now I have a battery I have stopped putting on dishwasher, clothes washer at night, too much going on as it is…its great to be able to put on the dishwater when you want and wash the clothes etc Ive a 12kW HP and when its cold outside and its doing the DHW I could see it go over 5kW and nearly 6kW (but thats rare) here is the HP from the night before which would be a typical night. At 2am to 3am its just doing DHW so its ramping up to 5.5kW then from 3:30 am its just space heating and the heat requiment is lower so its hovering around 3.7kW. If you are planning to get a 6kW HP could you half these numbers since I have a 12kW? probably not that simple🤔

    image.png

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    is there anyone doing independent heat loss calculations around north county dublin? Id like to get a heat loss calc done independently of my plumber. He is good but wouldn't be that hot on heat loss calcs. He installs heat pumps so if i knew the right size to fit i'd be comfortable having him do it if i ever pull the trigger on it. I ran everything through heat punk and it came in at 5.7kw heat loss. I'm not sure how accurate i have been with things like rad etc. I'm thinking 5kw might be risking.. 6kw might be the size to go for but i don't want to finger in the air it.. he uses Panasonic heat pumps which I hadnt heard much about but the newer ones seem to have a good reputation..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Did a bit of googling and it suggests if you have the heat loss indicator, Floor area m2, and design temp you can calc the heat pump size.

    Heat Loss Indicator

    Floor area m2

    Temp Difference

    Heat pump Size

    1.91

    121

    24

    5.54664

    These are the numbers for my house based on design temp of 21 degrees at -3.

    So it looks like 5kw is probably too small. 6kw might be the right size.. or 7 for a bit of oversize protection? Reassuringly heatpunk and these numbers match



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Anyone know if you can just use the monobloc part of this Panasonic heatpump with an existing heatpump cylinder?

    https://www.aircon.panasonic.eu/IE_en/happening/aquarea-l-generation/

    It looks like you need the indoor unit as well?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,737 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Like you I used the HLI method, heat punk and this form from the SEAI and all gave a similar figure give or take a few 100 watts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    thanks ive k2? double fin rads upstairs.. how do you measure their output? have large column steel ones downstairs.. two triple, one double and and one remaining older panel thats double but very big in the office/garage.. the bathroom has a single panel steel but its not a big bathroom



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,900 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    heat punk should show you the output relative to the chosen flow temp, see here where I've highlighted with the red rectangle:

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,737 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    I took values from Stelrad and then converted the output based on the flow temp I was hoping to achieve, here is the conversion table



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭rathbaner


    Anyone here know of a heat pump firm who can maintain Nordic brand heatpumps?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    have a question on where folks put their heatpump thermostat in the house? we will have one zone. At the moment our 'nest' is on the landing. Downstairs we have open living space but i don't think we can put it there as we run a stove which would overheat the space and the heatpump im guessing would switch off and leave everywhere else cold. We have one room downstairs which tends to be the 'coldest' room. Should it go there? The landing ive been told is never a great choice. I guess if we put it there we can figure out the temp for there that will maintain the other rooms temp? sorry if this is a dumb question!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,123 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    if you put it in the coldest room itll be running to get that room to temp and you could have the stove on downstairs and be heating via the HP as well

    Ideally you need an upstairs and downstairs zone, why isnt that possible?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    im sure it is possible.. with motorised valves etc.. we never split it for the gas heating..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,123 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    if you are going down the HP route it probably makes sense if you have another heat source in the from of the stove?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Not sure if we will always use the stove.. probs will for a few more winters but maybe not longer term.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,123 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,123 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    possible to get a mobile stat with the unit you are looking at ? then get some cheap temp sensors for all the rooms and see yourself where makes the most sense to have it,

    Really with a HP you want it running low and slow not cycling.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    yes i think so.. im lost in the looking.. i'm thinking of the grant 9kw r290 unit.. it cycles down to something like 300 watts.. which is as low as it can go.. i asked the urban plumber on youtube and his choices were grant, viessman or valiant.. im wondering about placement restrictions with r290.. its a little confusing. the best position for mine is under a window beside the back door.. window is never opened.. there is a manhole cover to the side of the placement position. Its the closest run for my hotpress/cylinder. up back of house, into attic and down..



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,123 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus




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