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Cracks in wallbox pulsar plus front cover
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Going to revive my old post about the wallbox as it suddenly started giving trouble. Copied my post from fb:
I have an almost 5 yo wallbox pulsar plus which worked flawlessly until Friday night /Sat morning (15 to 16 of May). It tripped the breaker 2h into charging. I was able to power it up once in the morning (only after isolating it from the mains power). Then I tried to charge the car, but it tripped again a few seconds. Now even if I reset the breaker and energised it I get an instant trip of the breaker (its hager in case someone asks). No visible damage on the MB inside, but definitely a distinct burned smell on the right hand side of the charger. I filled in a contact form on the wallbox website but the charger is almost 5 yo and the warranty is 3 years so no luck there. I feel that I might be in for an expensive birthday present next week.
UPDATE over w/e: While opening the charger the 2nd time the cover has craked and chipped a piece off. It started showing signs of sun damage again 2 years after i replaced it under warranty. The charger started working again just before i went to bed on Saturday and i managed to charge the car overnight w/o issues (i though i had some overloading issues so charged at 30A). But during sunday afternoon the RCBO tripped again when the charger was idling and not connected to the car. What I have noticed yesterday when I tried to reset the rcbo was that the earth fault indicator was on (see photo below). I didnt pay too much attention to it on Saturday. I just isolated the mains power to the charger and rcbo then reset. Now the fault indicator is back on again. A wiring problem somewhere? Can't re-energize the charger once again, instant trip of the RCBO witht the earth fault indication. Probably time to start looking for a local spark to have a look at the wiring. Also the smell i mentiomed earlier could've come from some high voltage component inside the charger as i see no physical damage on any of the components. And the rust around the ring at the mains cables was there 3 years ago (see previous photos in the post).
UPDATE Monday: Wallbox came to with questions about the rcbo and the timing of tripping events. They're also asking for photos of the charger itself so I'm expecting the conversation going about the chipped cover which only appeared after I tried to open the charger after it stopped working.
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Ours done the exact same thing, only noticed when I took it down on Saturday for external wall insulation.
The cable holder has also snapped and the heat form the charger has literally desoldered the entire connector. Even the small wire connector has desoldered.
I could solder it myself as I do a lot of circuit board repair but I’m not sure I want to try fix the housing, Wallbox won’t sell the part separately and suggested I tape it up(I’m not joking)
I’m calling it a day and getting a zappi, I’ve talked to Wallbox and they don’t want to know.
anyone who has one of these chargers should probably check this, ours never tripped the rcbo either. The plastic these are made from is so brittle after being outdoors a couple of years in our climate.
I was going to redesign a case and 3D print it but I just couldn’t be arsed anymore
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The weight of the cable along with the brittle plastic and the heat definitely caused the main connector to basically desolder itself, although there didn’t seem to be any tension on the cable even with the clip broken as the grommet was holding it tight.
The arcing between the board and the connector block maybe caused the cables to crack and melt, but what’s interesting is even the cables with no power l2, l3 are pretty brittle with some mild cracking too. It just shows the heat inside along with the poor quality solder that the data connector is even desoldered. The cables to the connector block were still well secured to the green block and making perfect contact, I think they weren’t able for the heat caused by the arcing at the solder joints.It’s just an overall **** quality product and the majority of the issue caused by the poor quality plastic housing. But I also would have expected F201 on the board to blow but it didn’t.
I’m going to stick it on adverts for spares/repairs, I will re-solder it for anyone who wants it but I’d advise them to build a new case for it, I’ve a brand new unused front panel.
For anyone reading this who owns one of these I’d try carefully take the front panel off, I’m not sure that’s possible without cracking so get a spare and check that the clip holding your cable hasn’t broken, this cable was attached in the factory so they cannot blame the installer for over tightening.
This clip here on the bottom right.
Exact same break as Rusky above.
Post edited by CathalDublin on0 -
out of interest what screws are holding yours to the wall? These ones(SPAX) definitely seem too big and maybe caused the back housing to originally crack where held to the wall, although that doesn’t explain the areas with no stress that are completely cracked too.
Cough carcharger dot ie installed mine cough
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Not sure about your logic there. For me, the origin of the problem is the connector block (B) in the picture. The arcing from brown to black was hot enough to scorch the outside of the block (A) from the inside and hot enough to partially melt the insulation on the light brown wire. Bear in mind that solder generally melts at above 180°C. It can't be a coincidence that the solder melted directly under the obvious arcing.
That heat would have transferred to the circuit board and because the data block wire is running under the brown wire at C, that slight pressure was enough to lift the end of that block too. Why that didn't trip the RCBO is a mystery, one I'd be sure to investigate.
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