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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus


    There's a few things you can try. First thing I'd do is remove the valve core (if you haven't already). Secondly, if there's mesh in the pump head, remove that.

    If it still won't seat, you can try putting a ratchet strap around the tyre while it's on the wheel, with the hope of pushing the bead out a bit.

    What size compressor are you using?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 421 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi cletus,

    thanks for the reply.

    Should have said, I have tried with the value core out with the track pump. The adaptor for the compressor won't screw on with out the valve core in place. No mesh on pump head that i can see.

    I don't have ratchet straps, but have tried using an old inner tube to do the same. with a few different degrees of tightness on the tire by the tube none of which have worked.

    Going to try using the tire levers to pull the tire out to the rim before i try inflate it again. Example from 4:20 in this video….https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rkbkjNvPdk

    If I cannot get it then I expect I'll be calling to the LBS in defeat tomorrow as I have put more time than I'd like to admit into getting this done!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus


    Try the valve core out with the compressor. Really, I don't bother trying to seat tubeless tyres with anything other than a compressor.

    Do you have a full compressor (i.e. with a tank, so you have an initial 'blast' of air) or is it one of those small tyre inflators that just continually compress?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 421 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi - just a small cheap compressor that continually inflates to a set pressure, no tank unfortunately. Tried connecting it without the value core in and again no luck. Never had the need for anything other than the track pump to seat any tubeless tires before, although they were all road bike tires - tubeless on the gravel bike is only recent enough for me and this was my first time changing tubeless tire on that bike. I Just spent most of my lunch break trying the way as mentioned in the youtube clip, again no joy there. Expect that is it for my attempts to do it, and the experts in the bike shop can be the hero now!

    Thanks for your suggestions.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus


    Yeah, those small compressors won't have the initial blast of air to seat the bead.

    If you're anywhere near me, I can give it a go with my compressor, but you're probably closer to your LBS



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,556 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I had a 'mare trying to do the same last year. The previous tyre (same wheel) had seated easily, but that one wasn't having any of it. Even getting it on and off the rim was proving impossible (I broke 2 plastic tyre levers trying). Over the course of a week or so trying I added a pair of tyre pliers, a tyre glider, and an Airshot to my arsenal, and the airshot seated it instantly. As it happens, I actually changed said tyre yesterday, and between those 3 items the entire process including adding the sealant was about 10 minutes - with a very limited amount of swearing involved! It was more initial expense than I'd have liked, but at least I now have them in the toolbox.

    I'd imagine the right compressor in place of the Airshot would do the job as well though, and would possibly be of use for other things.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 377 ✭✭slideshow bob


    No advice really, only that I have had easy and impossible tubeless experiences.

    On one set of rims the only way the tyres seated was after everything you tried plus LBS fail. I left tube in for a week, carefully slid tube out, then used an electric car tyre inflator with a band around outside of the tyre& rim, soapy water to help seal it. It was not worth the effort. Those wheels are now tube only after the tubeless tyres wore out.

    I replaced tubeless tyres on another set last weekend. Had to lever tyres onto the rims, so tyres started out tighter. But they seated with a couple of quick pumps from an ordinary track pump.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,030 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Have to say, copius amounts of Fairy Liquid or some other lubricant around the bead has done the job for me in the past. As well as the comedy bubbles from the tyre if it is one of the more porous ones that needs micro sealing.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 348 ✭✭RunDMC


    I went to the LBS as suggested and they scrounged up 4 M5*20mm stem bolts. They weren't on the system so he just said "You can have them for a tenner." I said "No, thanks" and went home and ordered a set of 10 bolts for €7 on Amazon. I'm all for supporting local businesses, but not if they are taking the piss.

    Thanks for the suggestions.

    R



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,556 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I remember ordering some "official Shimano HollowSet" crank bolts a few years back (why do they use butter to make the heads) before realising they were just slightly shorter M5 (or whatever) bolts and the extra couple of mm wouldn't make any difference. I can't remember the price now but it was absolutely outrageous (circa €20 for 4 springs to mind)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus


    Almost all of the "bolts" we talk about on bikes are machine screws. The difference is bolts are designed to pass through an unthreaded hole and be fastened by a nut, machine screws are designed to fasten into a threaded hole.

    There's nothing particularly special about most of the fasteners on our bikes either, with a few exceptions (e.g. stem bolts might have a narrower than usual head)

    Once you know the size of the fastener, the only other info you need to be able to order from any hardware supplier is the head type. This image might help people in that regard

    1000023967.png

    Button hex and cap hex would be the most common type, obviously the same head types can be gotten with Torx instead of hex



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭thereiver


    IIs there a place I can go to get a chain cut ,eg I have only one key I lost it , the chain is wrapped around the handlebar 1/4 inch chain

    I must have dropped the key on the ground when I was near the bike rack . Eg the chain is locked to a lock around the handlebars .



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,030 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I'm going to disagree, I think you don't value your time, their time and the benefit of having an LBS who can pull Thai sh1t out of nowhere in a pinch. Yes a local providers would probably have gotten them for your for less but that's a side story. You needed 4, he went and searched for them, got them, and you had it in a few minutes. Amazon, morally questionable to their lowest paid employees, forcing unfair conditions on small businesses.

    Yes a little pricey, but it's no difference than the penalty I pay for milk and biscuits in my local shop compared to a supermarket.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 808 ✭✭✭fiacha


    What type of lock is it ?

    Might be handier to pick or shim the padlock.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭thereiver


    https://ecobox.co.za/product/iron-padlock-38mm/ similar to this one i, have no idea how to shim a lock its hanging down 4 inchs below the handlebar

    eg i just removed it from the handlebar ,it was loose ,eg lock is still locked to the chain ,

    i can just buy a new lock i have a spare bike chain 3 ft long .new lock is only 2 euro in dealz



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭thereiver




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus


    Easiest thing is a bolt cutters, if you know anyone with one.

    Angle grinder is an option, but watch the direction of the sparks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭thereiver


    https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Padlock-Shim this link shows how to shim the lock i have exact model 60mm



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭thereiver


    i could just buy a hacksaw and cut the chain



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,762 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I've just bored the living **** out of my wife because I simply had to relate this information to her.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,762 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Photo of the handlebar? Curious whether you could remove the bar and thus the chain without cutting it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭thereiver


    no i cut nothing , the chain was wrapped loosely around i just unwrapped it and removed it, i found the key to the lock today .sorry for wasting your time.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,042 ✭✭✭nicksnikita




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,712 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Alright lads/ladies.

    Should be easier than this to get off a freehub.
    Tried a 10mm allen in there, no luck.

    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 210 ✭✭nialljf


    Hi all. I'm moving to wheels with a wider internal rim (24 mm) and wider tyres (32 mm). Can I continue to use the latex tubes from my previous narrower tyres (28 mm) or are there compatibility issues?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,423 ✭✭✭cletus


    Latex tubes don't have the same stretchibility that butyl tubes do. I'd err on the side of caution, and buy appropriately sized ones



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,622 ✭✭✭BoardsMember


    Not quite the purpose of this thread, but wondering if anyone here knows of an lbs that can work on sram gears/drive train. I've a mountain bike that I think needs new chain and cassette. The lbs, which is very good to be fair, is quoting 180 euro, but I think this is to replace with shimano. Probably a good price and maybe good for future proofing so servicing. But would like a price/view of keeping the sram.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,624 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    Most tubes have a range so can you check on the tube as it might be stamped on? I use 20-25 for instance for my 23's and would have no issue using them on 25's. Worth checking the tube and what range it can fit.



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