Home heating automation

Probably the easiest replacement kit for the climote is the Drayton wiser Kit 3. A receiver will mount in place of your climote and connect to the three zones. It comes with two wireless Thermostats which are places in the CH zones, living are adownstairs , master bed or landing upstairs. All three zones are scheduled and controlled on the app plus via the wall thermostats. Way superior to the Climote. If your climote is already located in a suitable position for a zone measuring thermostat, the wireless Wiser thermostat can be placed close by.

If you wished to use the Tado system, this is also possible by using a wired thermostat beside the wireless Tado receiver, together they will connect to all to all three zone wires from the climote, then place the wireless Tado thermostat in the upstairs zone. Did you have a remote temperature sensor fir the Climote upstairs zone, or was it just timed segments of on,/off.

Yes, Drayton wiser Kit 3 is 1 box solution for the climote, drops straight in. Two wireless stats located in the most effective places (livingroom and master bedroom are common) will provide time and temperature schedules for the general upstairs/downstairs zones, with HW timimg on the app. With a single zone stat in charge if several rooms, it's important to balance the other zone rooms (the other bedrooms say) by opening or closing the radiators valves such that all rooms heat to roughly the same temperature as the stat controlled master. This is done usually by opening the radiator valves full, then adjusting the lockshield valve at the other end to restrict rads where the room heats quickest. It's a trial and error method, but it works to give colder rooms a bigger bite of the hot flow.

The best method of balance is to have passive mechanical thermostatic valves on the non stat rooms. These will individually cap room temperatures when the zone stat is calling for heat. The ultimate step is to replace these mechanical Trvs (just the non plumbed knob bit), with smart TRV heads. Now the bedrooms will have programmable time/temperature control, and will call the zone heating just like the main zone stat.

I did come across some discussions on this a while back, on Reddit I think. I'll have to look back and see. I have a feeling the app can add another stat, as this might be for TRV firing control. It's a while since I read the Drayton bumf, ideally someone who's played around with a few kits would know.

At €1 per annum per TRV for decent bulk pack AA alkaline batteries, I wouldn't be bothered with rechargeables.

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/varta-longlife-power-aa-alkaline-batteries-40-pack/565PH

I did, you shouldn't have the contacts of the Tado directly powering a boiler, the boiler should have a relayed switched live. An old boiler with just a single live in to turn everthing on and off needs an intervening relay.You'll need to check if the CH Com and NO terminals are fused together internally, by removing the power and checking with a meter.

US

What is the white unit over the 3 channel timer. It's only partially shown. Is that a receiver for a wireless wall thermostat elsewhere, or does it have buttons or a dial that's not shown?

Does this device currently control the UFH?

Is the entire downstairs UFH?

You have two timed radiator zones both upstairs? And a Hot Water timer.

See if you can find a brand name on this unit.

This will do the job If you get the Tado sorted. Could be put inside a wall switch box.

You may have loosened it by jolting it with power off and on, assuming it was contact related rather than any other fault. There are very few circumstances where a mechanical relay will stay closed after solenoid power is removed, fusing is the most likely, and I have seen similar where you can jolt it open and resume operation, until it sticks again. If you want to try this heavy duty Salus relay, you can mount it beside the Tado or place it inside a wall socket box with a blanking lid for safety. It takes permanent Live and Neutral in, linked from the Tado supply. This Live is also linked to the Salus COM. The boiler live supply wire is moved from the Tado NO to the Salus NO, and the Tado NO is then linked to the Salus SL, to trigger the Salus relay and send live to the boiler.