the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Old tyre below. Might not be visible with older tyre, but the thin metal strips are exposed, as they are in the new tyre.

That actually makes a lot of sense as I changed the rim brakepads on that wheel not so long ago, and the new brakepads were bigger.

When I set them, I avoided any overshoot, but with my weight on the bike, I can see things happening as you describe.

Not sure why would affect just one spot though, but maybe all it takes is one strong application of the brake to set things in motion.

You could try putting some two part epoxy between the lip of the rivnut, and the body of the fork, and then try tightening down the rivnut a little with a rivnut gun (if you have access to one)

A squeeze or two might be enough to make it seat while the epoxy sets.

I have a rivnut gun, but I don't think I'm very close to you, from memory. Feel free to pm if you want a loan of it, regardless.

One of my bikes is a 12 speed and the chain seems to need replacing much quicker than on my 10/11 speeds. Is this normal?

I have to change it at around 3,500kms whereas it's around 5,000kms on the other bikes. Is it because the components are 'thinner'?

Thanks.

An odd one that people may or may not have come across. I have Ultegra DI2 R8170. I was on a 100km spin yesterday and 90km it was fine but then it developed an issue where it wouldn't shift the rear derailleur up. It does work if I really really press the shifter but its like the contacts are contacting or at least only doing so intermittently. I can here the contacts on the left shifter up and down and the right shifter down but not so much up unless I push it super hard nearly bending it. Once I do hear the contacts it shifts fine. Perhaps something got into it? There is less than 800km on it.

Yeah, charged to about 50% I will try charging it fully and see. I see there are updates available for the shifters but need to be hard wired rather than over the air with the app. I think I may need to go to the LBS to get this done as I only have the EC300 charger cable which I don't believe will allow me to update.

So i threw on the 12 speed groupset today. Started indexing the gears and when i got to 12, i ran into a little issue. The chain is rubbing against the derailleur bolt.

Dunno if the hanger might be a bit bent or if i can just throw a washer on the derailleur bolt, to move it slighty out. Anyone else haf this issue?

Didn't know you could get 105 Di2 in rim brake. Looks lush

Are you using that with Shimano breaks, I'd be interested to know if it works as well as the original levers…

Like to go from 42t 1x upfront to 36t.

Have put on 36t,lots of slack on 11t on cassette.

Wondering on how much to reduce chain by,is it simply 3full links? 6 teeth,1/2link per tooth.

Also like to have the option of running 11-36 for Cross and 11-42 for gravel on back.

Is there a sweet spot chain length?

56inches/links?

Thanks

So I want to buy inner tubes, and simply replace the tube.

 Size is 26 x 1.95, I don't know what the 1.95 refers to.

The 1.95 is the width in inches. Tubes have a range of widths, e.g., this https://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bike-parts/inner-tubes/schwalbe-schrader-bike-inner-tube---700c-161657.html fits tyres between 18-28mm (NB example only- this isn't the one you want!) so in your case you'd probably be looking at something like 26" x 1.75-2.25 I'd imagine. If your tyre falls in the range, you should be grand, but if you were to put the 18-28mm in a 45mm tyre, things mightn't be ideal.

As for brand, I wouldn't bother with Conti of Schwalbe personally. The own brand Halfords or Decathlon are fine and are cheap. Online not showing up anything, but if you're handy to either, they'd usually have them in stock. Local bike shops will also sort you out, and there's a lot to be said for supporting them as well!