Has anyone any experience of putting a child seat on a rack? I bought frame mounted yepp maxi for my wife's e-bike last week and it won't fit as doesn't have adequate clearance over the back tyre (I had been warned this might be the case but it's not an issue as I have just installed it on my commuter).
However I now need to try get her a rack and rack mounted seat. However, when I've looked online, most racks look like they have a weight limit of 25kgs. Considering a seat probably weighs over 10kg, I'd imagine I'll be approaching the weight limit soon. Does anyone have any recommendation on a decent rack that can take more than 25kg?
so background is going from 1 x 42T 11-42 (Gravel setup) to 1 x 36T 11-36 for CX.
query is how much to reduce the chain by,so it could handle both 11-42 and 11-36 on the back.
thanks
The new seatpost clamp and tube of carbon paste seems to have done the trick. Huzzah
Also helps that the new clamp has a bolt with a hex head whereas original one had a torx head
I got battery replaced on a Garmin 520 recently as battery was only lasting 1hr. Screen broke during the fix so new screen and seal too. Works great now.
Parts < €30. Labour was free. So long as I ignore the cost of his 4 year degree in electronic engineering.
Yep, which is why I'm fully behind the Right to Repair movement 😄
I think similar applies to any of this type of thing, Garmin watches and Edge being prime examples. Partly as a result of being sealed for water ingress and - with cynic hat on - for enforced obsolescence, they're a pain to get into with hidden none standard screws, glue on the screen, then the batteries themselves being glued. Get through all that and you need to get it back together again so as to be watertight.
Thanks C.
I bought it used, so no, I didn't contact the manufacturers. I suppose I got my moneys worth out of it. I'll do a factory reset, perhaps there's something burdening the battery unduly, but I haven't been using many add-on sensors.
Nice unit, I would be a fan. The easy map zooming seems to be the best noticeable difference between it and my buddy's Garmin.
It looks doable, but finicky, and frankly a pain in the hole. Have you contacted Wahoo to see if they offer some sort of battery replacement service?
Wahoo v1 Roam battery replacement:
Is there anyone on the island who has experience/success with this?
My unit is only good for about two hours, which is effectively useless. I lack the fine motor skills to try it myself.
(Aside, the deterioration happened quite suddenly, from ~8 hours capacity to 2, over the course of the summer)
I've seen people put a plastic sleeve around the seatpost. Or you could wrap it in a type of teflon tape.
Original seatpost, no cracks
Collar seated correctly.
I've order a new seatpost clamp, will use paste and see if it works. Might have to over-torque the bolt
Is it the original seatpost?
Or have you recently replaced?
Is the collar seated correctly?
Is the collar or seatpost cracked, or the bolt threaded at all?
Photos may help.
Cannot get carbon seatpost to stop slipping on aluminum frame
Have used carbon gripper paste inside frame, torqued to correct nM
Keeps slipping. Gravel bike
Thank you.
I bought an IMPAC 26" inner tube for 5 euro this morning, from a bike shop, size 40/60-559.
So I want to buy inner tubes, and simply replace the tube. Size is 26 x 1.95, I don't know what the 1.95 refers to.
So I want to buy inner tubes, and simply replace the tube.
Size is 26 x 1.95, I don't know what the 1.95 refers to.
The 1.95 is the width in inches. Tubes have a range of widths, e.g., this https://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bike-parts/inner-tubes/schwalbe-schrader-bike-inner-tube---700c-161657.html fits tyres between 18-28mm (NB example only- this isn't the one you want!) so in your case you'd probably be looking at something like 26" x 1.75-2.25 I'd imagine. If your tyre falls in the range, you should be grand, but if you were to put the 18-28mm in a 45mm tyre, things mightn't be ideal.
As for brand, I wouldn't bother with Conti of Schwalbe personally. The own brand Halfords or Decathlon are fine and are cheap. Online not showing up anything, but if you're handy to either, they'd usually have them in stock. Local bike shops will also sort you out, and there's a lot to be said for supporting them as well!
I bought a used Indi ATB bike on DoneDeal for my child. The price new in Halfords is 175:
https://www.halfords.ie/bikes/mountain-bikes/indi-atb-1-womens-mountain-bike-17in-frame-588308.html
Puncture in rear tyre.
I haven't fixed a tyre in 25 years.
I bought a cheap, basic repair kit (€5 retail here, 62 pence wholesale in UK)
https://wholesaletradegroup.com/product/bk102-blackspur-puncture-repair-kit-13-pc/
I watched videos on YouTube.
I removed the rear wheel, and the inner tube. I found two small holes in the tube, as well as what seems to be a thorn still sticking out inside the tyre.
The first patch failed, my mistake, glue not spread wide enough. Second patch also failed.
Eventually, after ringing people, and watching videos, the third and fourth patches were a better fit.
I was happier.
I inflated the tyre after the patches dried, no sound of air. Great.
I put the tube back onto wheel rim, and managed to get tyre on.
I inflated tube again, and planned to leave wheel sitting in shed overnight, to double check has it all worked.
As I walked away from the shed, I could hear a hiss.
I presume one of the two patches failed inside.
I gave up, and decided my time is too valuable to be at this.
If the child commits to cycling a lot, I may consider buying what I think are better tyres, more puncture-resistant (Schwalbe), but for the moment I'm looking for inner tubes.
What is a recommended brand of tubes? I suppose mid-range, not cheap, but I can't justify crazy prices.
Thanks.
When the bike shop repairs my punctures, I see them use Impac brand, are they good?
Continental?
Schwalbe?
Like to go from 42t 1x upfront to 36t.
Have put on 36t,lots of slack on 11t on cassette.
Wondering on how much to reduce chain by,is it simply 3full links? 6 teeth,1/2link per tooth.
Also like to have the option of running 11-36 for Cross and 11-42 for gravel on back.
Is there a sweet spot chain length?
56inches/links?
Thanks
Using the same shimano long reach brakes, with rc55c3 pads that i had with the tiagra shifters. Cant tell any difference in the stopping power..
I will say i marginally prefer the tiagra and 105 hydraulic shifters to the wheeltop ones. Just a little bit more comfortable.
Are you using that with Shimano breaks, I'd be interested to know if it works as well as the original levers…
Bought the Wheeltop EDS rim on aliexpress at release back in May. Got it for 520 or so with shipping and import duty😎. So just picked up a crank, cassette and chain and upgraded to 12 speed. The groupset can handle from like 3-13 speed or something. I had Tiagra on it before.
Apart from the weird setup and finally understanding how the indexing works in the app, its been fantastic.
Didn't know you could get 105 Di2 in rim brake. Looks lush
Washer did the job 🚴
So i threw on the 12 speed groupset today. Started indexing the gears and when i got to 12, i ran into a little issue. The chain is rubbing against the derailleur bolt.
Dunno if the hanger might be a bit bent or if i can just throw a washer on the derailleur bolt, to move it slighty out. Anyone else haf this issue?
The other is checking the cables are fully clicked in. Happened to me, was fine for ages, then it became intermittant. Turns out the cable into the shifter just needed a push to fully seat it.
Yeah, charged to about 50% I will try charging it fully and see. I see there are updates available for the shifters but need to be hard wired rather than over the air with the app. I think I may need to go to the LBS to get this done as I only have the EC300 charger cable which I don't believe will allow me to update.
Is the battery charged up?
An odd one that people may or may not have come across. I have Ultegra DI2 R8170. I was on a 100km spin yesterday and 90km it was fine but then it developed an issue where it wouldn't shift the rear derailleur up. It does work if I really really press the shifter but its like the contacts are contacting or at least only doing so intermittently. I can here the contacts on the left shifter up and down and the right shifter down but not so much up unless I push it super hard nearly bending it. Once I do hear the contacts it shifts fine. Perhaps something got into it? There is less than 800km on it.
If the Brompton has a Shrader valve, I'd say that should work fine (it's cheap anyway). If it's Presta, you'll most likely need a different one.
One thing on 16" wheels that I remember from the kids bikes is that it was often difficult to close the lever to clamp the head (as on that Halfords adapter). It did work with my pump, but did result in a few skinned knuckles
II have a floor pump with a dual head but unfortunately it won't fit into the small 16 inch wheel of my Brompton.
I tried to have a look for my valve extender which I used with my motorcycle when I had it but I can't seem to find it. Instead with this valve extension thing from Halfords work instead?
I can't say anything about durability, but the outside width is thinner but the inside width is the same as 11s - so it wouldn't suprise me if they wear out more quickly.
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