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Solar for Dummies.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭DC999


    Yeah, added to cost of rebuild (not contents) afaik. AXA via a broker. They asked no Qs which I was surprised with.

    Include the grant cost too as you won't get that a 2nd time if did need a rebuild.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,873 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I'm still looking for ideas on this, if anybody has some input?

    I cut the tile today to see where we are with the Vario 2 hook:


    It's sitting wayyyy too high and the tile is lifted on the right of the photo. I can't dish the underside of the tile to fit the arm of the Vario 2 as I'd be cutting deeply into the 1cm of tile body. Bending the arm isn't an option as it's a compound bend (z-shaped) and the steel is about 5mm thick.



  • Registered Users Posts: 555 ✭✭✭idc


    This might be crazy and might be better if i looked at how my installers did this as I think my brackets are very similar/same. But looking at your original image if the bracket was over the curve instead of the flat bit would it fit better? [ no doubt someone will explain why thats crazy 😂 ]

    To be honest this was one reason I decided against messing with the roof myself and just had my installer come back to add more panels! I wasn't about to start randomly cutting holes in my tiles and getting it all wrong!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,873 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Yes, I did, thanks. He has an ideal roof there, all very straightforward and that's probably why I took this job on thinking it would be just as simple. LOL!

    The only difference of note is that I think he's using 35mm battens (supporting the tiles) and I have 22mm battens. That is, I think, my problem as it's roughly that 13mm of a difference that I'm having to deal with.

    Hi, yes I had a look at whether I could do that while I was up there, but with it being a curve it's not ideal to cut into (weakens the tile a lot) and it really limits the placement of the hooks. Plus, it's not recommended like that - all guidance is to install the hooks in the channels rather than on the 'ridge'. I'll keep it in mind as an option though.

    Thanks for the input so far.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 43 gg3390


    Hello,

    About to bite the bullet on installing solar panels DIY myself, have a RECI for the signoff. Unfortunately I missed the boat on submitting the NC6 before 31st of June.

    I'm confused on the FIT with respect to "smart meters", and a few other areas - would be delighted if somebody could clarify situation. Please forgive if the questions are incorrectly worded, nonsensical - I hope they arent...

    We use approx 14-20kwh per day (currently no heat pumps, electric cars etc.). I'm hoping that, at least for summer months, the solar will be self-used. Dont anticipate a battery right now, but want to get a hybrid inverter to ensure future proofing.

    1. Our current supplier I believe is giving us standard 24hr tariff - bill states MCC01 on the type. A smart meter was installed soome months ago, but we did not sign up to any smart plan. Assuming the NC6 gets approved and I install approx 6KwP panels behind a 5.5/6Kw inverter, will I get FIT payments WITHOUT changing to a smart metering plan? - i.e. can you get FIT while remainng on std. 24hr metering?
    2. I can probably install about 14 panels on my south facing roof currently; there is another S facing roof, but shaded somewhat by the higher roof which might be able to take four more panels, and if I add two optomizers it might be a runner. But for the present I can only stretch to 14 panels. What inverter would be recommended here that still falls within the 25A new ESBN limit. I was going to get a Solis 6Kw, but as I said, missed the boat. I know I can go 5Kw, but trying to squeeze every last drop out. Probably max panels I could ever install would be 18. Maybe a 5.5Kw inverter thats closer to the 25A ESNB limit - is there such a model?
    3. Whole house is controlled with Home Assistant, and current power usage is monitored with Shellys 3PM's on different circuits, feeding directly into homeassistant. I'd like to get an inverter that will be HA friendly, and indeed DIY-friendly in terms of access to configuration and settings etc. Remote-controlled heating, immersion, lights etc, all currently via Home assistant, so would like the solar to integrate here too.
    4. In terms of completing the NC6, in section 5 detailing the generator kva installed behind each inverter - I assume this relates to the wattage of each panel, so if I have 420w panels, the generator kva behind the inverter would be 0.42Kva per module, and this is what I would enter?

    Thanks in advance for any assistance.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭DC999


    Yes re "can you get FIT while remainng on std. 24hr smart meter?"



  • Registered Users Posts: 43 gg3390




  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,125 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Re point 3; Nearly all inverters can be controlled via locally via Modbus. Some support Modbus TCP, others support Modbus RTU (RS-485). Both are supported natively by HA. It sounds like you are technically minded, so I don't think this will be an issue for you.

    Note that most manufacturer's cloud platforms /data loggers usually use the RS-485 port so if you want both cloud and local access you need some jiggery pokery to have multiple Modbus masters.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭abff


    Apologies if this is a stupid question. I had 10 400W solar panels installed last month and I have an app that tells me the amount of electricity that is being generated. The weather has been really sunny, but the maximum power that has been generated at any time is 3.1 KW. This is just under 80% of the supposed maximum if the panels were operating at 100% efficiency.

    Is this normal? Or does it indicate that there is something sub optimal about the installation? Two of the panels have what look like scratch marks on them. Could this indicate that the panels are damaged in some way? I’m in Dublin 16 and the roof is SSW facing with no obstructions.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,921 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭abff


    I’ve no idea. Where would I find this information? Is the following of any relevance?

    Array parameters

    Voc(stc)

    371.60

    Isc(stc)

    13.54



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,921 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    start of with a photo of it? theres usually a sticker on the side of it with model number power rating etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 294 ✭✭JayBee66


    Also, angle of incidence of sunlight plays a part. If the direction of all panels is not due south at local midday (around 1:30PM for most of Ireland) and the panels are titled away from the Sun in the vertical axis at local midday then both of those factors will reduce maximum power input.

    Although many inverters have a DC input in excess of 5KW, those same inverters have an AC output to grid of 3.8KW or 5KW. If the panels do not have a partially empty battery or a large load to dump to then that too will effect output.

    You need to give inverter manufacturer and model plus direction (North, South, East, West, split?) and orientation of panels (tilt from vertical - 0 degrees is facing straight up and 90 degrees is facing the horizon) to make a judgement.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭abff


    Thanks for the replies, folks. The orientation is SSW and the angle is 45°. Where do I find the inverter? Is it likely to be in the attic?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,921 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    If you dont know where it is, Attic is the likely place.

    What app do you use?

    Pretty poor show that at install you werent shown around the system at install, but we'll help as best we can.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭abff


    I was shown a control that is beside the hot water tank. The app I’m using is myenergi. The company that installed the panels is *****. As they are one of the bigger players in the market (at least, I think they are), I assume they know what they’re doing and that the inverter provided is appropriate for the number and size of the panels.

    In addition to the team installing the panels, an inspector called while they were doing the installation to make sure that everything was up to scratch.

    I didn’t notice the apparent scratch marks on the panels until after they were gone. I emailed them about it and got a response saying that they have passed my query on to their technical team.

    I posted here because I felt I would get impartial advice, not just a company response that may not be totally unbiased.

    I really appreciate the time that both of you are taking to respond to my queries. The title of this thread describes me somewhat aptly!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,041 ✭✭✭con747


    The device beside your hot water tank is most likely the Eddi for heating the water, the inverter must be in your attic if it's not plainly visible around the house. It should look something like these.


    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 294 ✭✭JayBee66


    As far as I am aware, that particular installer (whose quote I turned down for being twice that of my local installer) only installs Solis inverters.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,731 ✭✭✭abff


    Thanks. I’m about to head off on holidays, so I’ll leave it until I get back. Hopefully, I’ll have got an answer from ***** by then.

    Post edited by Jonathan on


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  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,125 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I've edited your post. No naming installers please.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,482 ✭✭✭Ginger83


    I have a question about the Solis app. The lower part of the photo attached shows my figures for yesterday.

    What's the difference between self use and self sufficiency? I assume the house used 1.92kWh from the grid for yesterday?




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,873 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    That's not very clear alright. Not being funny but there is a small question-mark beside "self-use" and "self-sufficiency" (?) , maybe that can tell us more?

    Edit: Oh it's the overall solar generation (consumption plus exports) over total household consumption (off solar over imported) showing the difference between what you're 'losing' through exports versus what you're consuming from solar or grid. So in the example day shown you only took 1.92kW off the grid as solar provided 81% of your overall usage that day. A good result on that day alright.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,873 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Just in terms of an update on this. I just went with the tile in that position of being "kicked up" by the Vario 2 hooks as I figure that the panels will cover all affected tiles and the rain run-off channel isn't negatively affected and the tile-overlap is very deep too. Some tiles were worse than others but I can't figure out another solution in the absence of either bending the bracket or modifying it (with the risk which that entails).



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,873 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Question for anybody with an iBoost or Eddi:

    What level of power stepping do these controllers provide? Would they work right down to 100w or there abouts? Do they increase the power to the heater up in steps of 50W, or are they very linear? Reason I ask is that my install is relatively small (limited roof space) and I want to know whether I'll gain in any reasonable way outside of the high-season. If I only produce an excess of let's say 2kWh over a period of 5 hours, will the Eddi/iBoost be able to work down to ~300Wh or so or does it require a higher export rate than that to initiate heating of the water?

    (I'm using microinverters so not on NC6/FiT yet)

    Post edited by 10-10-20 on


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,617 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Ive seen the eddi send 100 watts to the water tank especially on a day where the house is using next to nothing.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,825 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Whether you use a string inverter or micro inverters, that generation still requires a NC6 AFAIK.

    Whilst the EDDI can consume down to 100w of power ( it reports in increments of 100w on the App ) I've always questioned whether such low power can actually heat a tank of water, I'd imagine this heat would be lost through cylinder loss/stratification etc.

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. outdoor furniture, roof box and EDDI

    My Active Ads (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Old Jim


    I have my solar panels installed (6kW, south facing). It is a little different as the panels are part of a shed/ground-mount structure (see attached pic). Need to spec the electrical side now. Just want to ask how would a 5kWh battery operate in my system? Daily summer consumption is about 13kWh (house) & 10kWh (car)

    On an average day, would a 6kW system cover periods of heavy than normal load e.g. lunch time when oven/toaster/kettle may be used or if the Heat pump kicks in(~2kW)? If not, would the battery pick up the shortfall?

    Just trying to get a feel for if the panels would power the house during the day with the help of the battery and have the battery charged for use in the evening



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,522 ✭✭✭micks_address


    hi folks,

    wanted to pick up one extra panel for my back roof - its got a row of 6 and a row of 5.. panels are 370 watt - ja panels is all the quote says.. asked my installer if they could fit another one any time they be doing a job in the area etc.. no panic with it but they said 'they using bigger panels now' and wouldn't be able to get a match... equates to feic off its not going to be worth our while or yours.. its probably not worth it but where would i get a 370 watt panel to match? are they all different sizes? would these work? https://midsummer.ie/buy/REC-Solar/REC370TP4

    Cheers,

    Mick



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,825 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Late April to early Sept you should be fine, on full sunshine you will be well covered and even on a cloudy day you should be producing 3kW around lunch time. Battery would be useful to cover short peaks and avoid taking from the grid but you got to work out the economics of both the battery and extra cost of hybrid inverter.

    Lovely build by the way

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. outdoor furniture, roof box and EDDI

    My Active Ads (adverts.ie)



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