Timber shed 10 x 12

You will pay more than you expect because timber is expensive. When you start putting shiplap on the side of a shed you soon see how quickly it gets eaten up.

Price wise I always recon you can make a lot better shed yourself than you'll buy but you won't save much.

I can run through how you make one if you like. There is a fairly standard prefabrication method.

I have bought sheds from this crowd and been entirely satisfied. They will accommodate your requirements and are very quick to supply - my last one I got in a week.

I know them in that yard very well have been in and out of there for the last 20 years. I use the same construction method that they do except I put in second hand windows rather than make them. Provided you pay for the better materials their sheds are about as good as you can get for the money.

They have improved their methods over the years. I preferred the materials they used to use in their roofs but the detailing around important areas like the barge boards are much more water tight than they used to be so that doesn't really matter.

When I make a shed I don't do much to improve on their design. However I do a more reinforced floor and use thicker uprights. You don't need either but you can easily reclad a shed that has a really good framework. If you are unlucky or don't do much maintenance then shiplap won't last longer than about 15 years.

Don't get the rustic boards they are cheap and nasty and the round log finish shiplap doesn't last as long as the 18mm thick shiplap. The round finish doesn't seal well around the windows. Always always get a membrane under the shiplap. Windows are a weak point in shed design so I'd recommend going without and putting in your own second hand double glazed units. If you supplied them I suspect they'd fit them. Provided you add a couple of extra uprights where you put a window you can fit almost anything you can get hold of. If its really wide then a bit of extra support over and under the window is advised.

btw that method of construction is good for sheds up to about 10ft by 24ft. Anything longer or wider and the small errors you get in each panel add up so things don't always go together as well as they could.

I'm not sure what area they cover but I remember it was a lot further than I imagined and I'm fairly sure they have done one off sized sheds delivered and installed in Dublin but I suspect the buyer paid extra.

A final note I know Trihys will also make a shed in smaller sections so it can be taken through a house with no side entrance so it can be erected in the garden.

Its mostly down to joist spacing and joist thickness. However its very easy to make a reinforced floor section so heavy it takes 4 men to shift it. I know I made that mistake ;-( I say section because the all sheds are made up in sections. A 10 x 12 will probably be made up of three 10 by 4 floor sections four 6ft long wall sections, 4 roof sections and the two ends.

The basic design allows for the walls to be whatever height you want and windows and doors can be added anywhere within a section that you want. Personally I don't like double doors as there tends to be no extra timber added to brace the frame either side of the door but you can add that yourself or ask for it to be included. It is possible to ask for extras that start to reduce the strength of the the shed. Double doors in a 10 x 12 would be OK (ish) but in a 8 ft wide shed you would barely have enough wall width to keep it upright.

If its storage the membrane is a must. All shiplap shed walls leak to some extent. The shiplap isn't uniformly knot and inclusion free to be 100% waterproof (plus ready made sheds will use timber a self builder might discard) so you need the membrane. Easy to think a shed without a membrane is water tight only to find boxes stacked against the walls are wet up one side.

My (indirect, relative bought one) experience was that the metal was very light, it rattled like mad and fairly quickly blew to bits. It was tucked into a very sheltered corner between the house and a fence.

Timber, shiplap, 10x6 with a metal roof.

I have 4 vents on the front and back.

Also there wasn't/isn't airflow where the leak was.

It was where the timber underneath was joined.

From here

Yes, you have a better picture of it now.

There are sheets of timber under the steel roof (possibly OSB) and there would be a v shape channel where they join at the middle so yes the rare wind and rain the other night would get under the cap and lodge in the V.

Just a note on the foam fillers versus expanding foam.

I have the fillers on my steel shed.

They eventually start coming out and tearing.

Yes like you said the windows fitted on wooden sheds are crap and I wouldn't have any if doing again.

As well as putting boards on the windows I put sealer on the panes to stop condensation between them and the boards inside them.

I've extra wide doors which when opened leave in loads of light.

I only use the light if it's dark outside.

Boards being boards, before anyone says anything about all the wires, they are only trickle chargers that are on timers that come at varying times for an hour at a time 🫡

Also have the other wooden shed at back of my steel shed.

It's 12ft x 8 ft

Have a concrete shed also 🙊

Yes, go big or go home!

No matter how big u go it'll be getting smaller as time goes by because usually starts building up inside it.

So go as big as possible at the start.

Proper order 😅

I use rough swan treated planks for the floor. They are nominally 6 inch by 1 inch - more like 5 1/2 x 3/4. I prefer them over ply because if damp gets in then you don't get the delamination problems you get with ply. You can even cut out an odd plank and replace it. Before the planks go down I put a layer of builders plastic to cut the draughts down. Also slash the builders plastic in a couple of places to let any water that gets in out.

I know how the price creeps up we bought two sheds before I started making them.

You might get a response as there have been a good few questions in the past about making a lean to between the side of the house and a boundary wall.

Only issue I see is roof overhang and gutter outside the boundary wall.

If you put in a gabled roof shed with the downslope to the wall it will direct water into the shed. If you put in a single slope roof it will have to be a good bit higher than the wall and while it would not need a gutter at the wall side, you will have an issue working round the coping on the wall, the coping would direct water into the shed.

How high is the wall? It would need to be minimum 8 ft, given you will lose maybe 6 inches at the base. It doesn't look high enough in the photo, but that could be an illusion.

Ideally I'd put down a timber roof maybe OSB? (don't like it but its better than it used to be) then a membrane then a corry steel roof. Remember you'll need a steel ridge and flashing for the gable ends (or it looks sh!t). Also foam fillers for the eves.

Torch on felt is great if its done right. I find I don't do enough of it to get it perfect.

Trampoline (in fine weather) will only be for a couple of years until he outgrows or gets bored with it, shed will be for life so think of all the fun he'll have in it throughout the years. A bench with a vice and a few tools and many the different type crafts that can be honed.