Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Options
1192193195197198200

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,232 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Have you considered a H cowl? I've heard of some success with them. Difficult to stop it completely.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3 SUGS


    relatively new to the whole stove idea and there's such a choice out there and very confusing but have narrowed it down to two:

    Elm Stove - great heat output and very large glass however did note on two display models in operation that the heat bricks are cracked(okay you can replace these) and the retaining bar(for logs) at the front of the stove appears to be covered in rust. Is this unusual? Also only a 2 year warranty.

    Vitae 9 - 5 year warranty but have yet to see one operating (bar on YouTube videos). Looks very sturdy and well built and seals around the door looked pretty decent.

    Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users Posts: 565 ✭✭✭stratowide


    I put in a stanley oisin stove about 2 years ago.All good since with no problems.Great heat from it.

    Question is..Can a backboiler or water heater of some sort be retrofitted to the stove to make use of the excess heat.There is loads of room around the stove.

    The water would only be used for the sink to wash dishes etc and won't be connected to the central heating.

    Is this doable or pie in the sky stuff..?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Pie in the sky. If there is a hot plate on it buy a kettle to boil water on it

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,211 ✭✭✭chris_ie


    We're getting a chimney repaired shortly, the stack is cracked and the liner is cracked also. Its an open fire, hasn't been used since we found out about the liner. We've been talking about replacing that open fire with an inset stove. It's in a room that's not used that often. Would be used a bit if we got stove etc again though..

    With regards to the liner repair, they were going to replace it with same liner (diameter) that was in it but I mentioned about the stove as I didn't want to end up having to undo any new works. I see a lot of people use the steel liners dropped down the existing chimneys. Is a new liner (clay) of the correct diameter for a stove better than dropping a steel liner down a wider chimney? Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. We wont be going back to an open fire, so it'll be stove now and god knows, years down the line be removed if house is ever sorted to accommodate a heat pump.

    Been looking at stoves with external air kits to maybe negate the need for a bit vent in the room. Doesn't have one at the moment but I know when I get the chimney redone they'll need to put one in.

    Just want to make sure that it's lined the best way for the stove.

    Is there an option to drop a steel liner down and not repair the clay liner? Doesn't sound like a good idea. Replacing the liner involved breaking into the chimney in a few rooms which isn't great....



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 25 kieronmc


    Hi folks,


    Any recommendations on who would fit a second hand fireline 9c cassette stove on Leinster. It would be into an existing fireplace and would require a new hearth, flexi liner potentially a new lintel.



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Technically it's not a difficult job. Leinster is a large area. You should define it to at least a county and preferably part of a county.

    A job line that also require's you to have decided what you want. If it's a cassette stove you are unlikely to want it at floor level unless it look like a stove. You also need to assertain what your present flue is set up like.

    You will definitely need a new flue liner, as well as fitting to attach to stove. You will need vermiculite, probably some rock wool.

    Is the house single or two story.

    It's probably a job you could do with a fairly good handy man especially if it's a bungalow

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭mccarthy.087


    Hi folks, need some advice if possible. I built a fairly airtight but not passive house 3 years ago and now I want to put a stove in a chimney I’m reopening in a sitting room. When we built, the plumber told me to run a pipe from the chimney Brest to outside for external air if needed in the future. The only problem is he only used a 35mm diameter pipe. I want to use this now and buy an external air stove but worried the pipe size isn’t big enough. I’m looking at maybe a 5KW room heater stove, the room it will be in has 4 windows each with trickle vents so I’m trying to figure out about a partial external air stove that I could connect to my 35 mm pipe and then make sure I leave at least 2 trickle vents open when the stove is lighting also to ensure they stove has enough air to draw from. Has anyone experience of something similar or any thoughts on this? Il attach a photo of the pipe Iv currently fitted. I don’t want to go drilling a 100mm hole in my wall to install an air vent if possible.




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I would imagine that the pipe is big enough. Have you asked a any stove supplier what vent size is necessary. With trickle vents it should be ok I would imagine.

    You get better technical advice from a stove supplier they should have the technical specs

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭mccarthy.087


    Hi, yeah Iv sent an email to 2 suppliers and waiting a response. I called into a stove shop and they said no the minimum pipe size is 100mm. Iv been reading about partial external air stoves which takes air from outside through pipe and also directly from the room. I’m not sure are these a seperate type of stove or if it’s just an adjustment that can be made on all external air stoves? 🤷‍♂️.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    I can tell above the metal plate in picture attached there is a lot of soot, but if I release the plate I will destroy the house. What would best way to go about removing the soot?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Can you move the steel flue.

    Is the house a single or multi story. If it's a single story can you go on the roof and work the door into the stove

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    I'm not sure what you mean by work the door into the stove. Please elaborate.



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭SlowBlowin


    Hi

    I have a Stanley Fionn with a back boiler. I need to replace the glass in the door but I cant remove the door. Before I get more physical with it can someone please confirm it should just lift off ? I does lift up all the way but the bottom pin seems to want to stay put !

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves



    I have a Stanley Eirn and they just lift off. I think they are stuck on the door hinge but maybe give them a tap of a tacking hammer( this is a light hammer)

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    Also the Gap between the pipe and the edge of the hole cut for the pipe is too big and so the soot would fall out there anyway. This is in a house i've moved into. Looks to me a shoddy installation as the pipe is just sitting there not secured. What are your thoughts?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Your problem is basically that instead of installing a continuous flue who ever installed the stove only connect the flue up to the existing chimney. This has meant that the chimney is not possible to clean properly.

    There is probably no easy solution. The ideal solution is to disconnect the flue and take down the plate and clean the chimney. Then reline with a continuous flue surrounded by vermiculite and glass wool. How to remove the plate and try to reduce the impact of the soot.

    You would have to remove the flue first and use some scaffolding or a mobile platform to allow you to remove the plate a box underneath the steel plate using some method of sealing around the gap between the box and the ceiling when the plate is removed

    No matter what you do it will be a mess. It's a matter of reducing the mess as much as possible.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,700 ✭✭✭ablelocks


    We have a 10 year old Nestor Martin RH33 stove - it's been cleaned regularly and i've only had to replace a chamber baffle once (possibly needs replacement again)

    but given it's age, is there a more comprehensive service required and is this a diy job or does it need a specialist?



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    So your confident enough that the flue in the picture doesn't go up much farther than the plate?



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Really you need someone to go up on the roof to check. Is the pipe welded onto the plate. The pipe may extend 6-12 inches up into the chimney however it's unlikely to be going much further as the pipe would need to be 20' ling to go up to the roof.

    How old is the house. Is it clay flues or an old brick/ stone chimney. I cannot imagine that anyone completely removed a chimney breast and is using that plate to support the old flues.

    You could drill a hole in the chimney in the attic and put in an inspection camera to see what is there exactly. Either that or someone go up on the roof and inspect it. Are there similar houses to it( ie is it in a row of houses) if there is then chimney structure will be similar I would imagine

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    Pipe is not welded onto plate. It is just sitting loose as below with a gap between edge of flue and hole in plate.




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Pipe is probably only going a foot or so above the plate. Take it off stove and you will get an idea of how far by moving it up and down. If you can remove the pipe a commercial hoo er will clean any soot above the plate before removal.of the plate.

    You then use a continuous flexible flue up into the chimney. From stove to the flexible flue you use a stainless steel flue and connect the two. You can leave the steel ate in place if you like. Otherwise you can use a concrete boards and fit it into position and skim it however it may be tricky to do. Fill around flue in chimney with vermiculite, use glass wool( not rockwool) at bottom of chimney just above the steel plate or concrete boards to seal around the flue.

    Seal top of chimney with glass wool and then mortor. Finally cap the flue with a stainless steel cap

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    How do i take it off the stove. It is firmly in place attached to the stove here as in picture when i try to lift it.




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    A pry, wrecking or nail bar. Get a few pieces if timber 10 mm, 20mm 40mm thick. Use these under the pry bar to protect the stove and to leaver the end of the pipe up. Something like below.

    https://www.espares.ie/product/es1775377?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPLa-fGQkhcguQJaurMEH0n9jLv-22U_Jn9ztb4bK1itxUGRaDrnJ1AaAs1NEALw_wcB

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,700 ✭✭✭ablelocks




  • Registered Users Posts: 320 ✭✭slystallone


    To me it feels as if it is built in or secured somehow as part of the stove rather than being stuck and needing a prybar. Could that be the reason? Maybe this picture will help.




  • Registered Users Posts: 18,216 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    You should not need to servi e a stove. Having said that last year I replaced nearly all the rope seals on my stove. Biggest thing is making sure the stove is thoroughly cleaned once a year

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,496 ✭✭✭Pepp1989


    Hope this is the right place. Had a stove installed last winter. Decoration put on long finger.

    Can someone tell me how to render over the fire plate at the side? Pic below will explain better. Anything I try cracks again due to heat.

    Is there a specific product for this job?




Advertisement