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Solar PV battery options

1464749515272

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Do you need to have a hybrid inverter to set up EV charging or will it work with a non hybrid standard inverter?

    Thanks. Can’t seem to find an answer easily online.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    The EV charging is completely separate to the inverter, so it doesn't matter if it's a hybrid or standard.

    The chargepoint monitors the grid itself and starts charging when there is enough excess.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,181 ✭✭✭championc


    I would also say that you really don't want to be discharging batteries into a car.

    Car charging is a nice bonus of solar, but realistically, the way to car charge is via a day / night meter, at night



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I sent an email to Solis and explained the 15 mins issue with the battery at 100a and then 70a and they basically confirmed that is the case:

    Maybe newer FW has the improved values it seems.

    I suppose when it comes to night charging it won't really matter since I will charge slowly anyway.

    Seems to me this is a pretty big limitation that needs to be mentioned in the spec sheet of the inverter.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,181 ✭✭✭championc


    Amazing the control with firmware

    Pity they can't derate maybe based on temperatures rather than the mins running. Is that worth replying as a suggestion, since it's likely to be temperature related that they are backing it off.

    Some have units outdoors so will be way cooler than one in an attic



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Does that mean it will derate to 10 amps after 40 minutes!? That's only 500w!

    I'd have no problem with it being temperature dependant though, extra cooling can be used.

    When the sun's out I'd want to be charging at full speed (still only 0.25C for the batteries)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,482 ✭✭✭DC999


    Yeah, looks like they are using time as the benchmark not temp of battery. Which is crude but at least they can ramp down and then up again. As you say, a battery housed outside (outdoor rated one) or in a shed in winter would have a different temp profile to one in an attic in summer.

    15mins max at 100A gives decent cover for the burstable stuff like kettle, microwave, hairdryer. Could nearly cook your grub on the airfryer :)

    Not sure I'd opt for the one that forces 10A / 500W. 27% (or 25mins) of that (what seems to be a forever-running) 90mins cycle would be at 10A. So 100A, 75A, 10A, 75A. 10A is not a battery at that point IMO. Could end up importing 90% at peak rates if on a smart meter with TOU



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Can you "cheat it"? Set the max-discharge rate to say 90A and does it avoid going into that reduction loop? You might want a constant 90A over a 100A and then that reduced rate.

    Just a thought.....



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,216 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I'd be pretty certain that is a typo and should be 100A. i.e. cycle between 75-100A ad infinitum.

    The context of the rest of the sentence gives it away.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Yes @Jonathan that's how I have read it, it will stay at 70a indefinitely if it runs at 100a for over 15 mins. If it the load is then under 60a for at least 25 mins, then after that 25 mins it is allowed to go to 100a again and repeat.

    Funny how I haven't noticed that in over a year with the system but also shows I am not pushing 100a on a regular basis.

    I wonder if the same applies when you're charging from the sun (or at night even - which I haven't done once), batteries are rated 50a so the 100a would only need 25a from the four which is 0.5C I guess.

    I will have to go back and look at my data from the last year curious if it always happened.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    No once you're over the 70 amps.. (I measured 68...) It will derate after 15 mins

    Bouncing 100-70-100 is better than the current setup.

    When your getting yours update could you cc me in on the email and I'll try and get mine done too


    Yep it derates on charge too

    The large jump in blue is the iboost kicking in.



  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭connesha


    What Solis FW version are you on?

    I'm on C700B1, and am only ever getting 65A in or out (it drops from 100A almost immediately).

    Last time I checked FW version was a few months ago, and was on 3A0029 at the time. I guess Solis updated it silently at some stage, as I never requested or was informed of an update...



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,216 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Sounds like one of the test firmware versions that @silver_sky got...

    They must be doing their testing in production 😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭connesha


    😂 Lucky me!

    Keep us updated @SD_DRACULA if you can... I need to get on that new FW train too...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Yeah we'll see what happens, still on 3A0029

    Sort of afraid new FW will cause other issues or break modbus stuff.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    Jaysus, don't be wishing for updated firmware. I'm on 3D0032 which apparently is the latest version. It's back to dumping 300W~ constantly from the battery. I've also got an issue where it flips from import to export constantly once generation dies down. That may be unrelated but it's worse on this firmware than A10032 which I was on. I asked them to roll it back.

    I wouldn't be too impressed with them changing it without telling me. If it's a security/safety issue they need to let people know.

    @SD_DRACULA I can send commands to it on the latest version.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    If they want to start getting into changing stuff randomly I'll be blocking ports. Local access only.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,181 ✭✭✭championc


    They are likely using a reverse proxy, so you'd have to stop the inverter talking to their cloud.

    The inverter will constantly be looking for a code, so in their database, they have the likes of. Silver_Sky Inverter ID = 3D0032, so when they match, nothing happens.

    They then set your inverter ID to something else, and immediately at next poll, the inverter pull the version tagged against it.

    Both of my Sofar inverters came with in-built sticks. They use the data sent to the Solarman Cloud to defend or support warranty claims



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    No issue making it stop talking to their cloud. Re-enable it on the router if there's a technical issue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,710 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    That rightly puts me off buying a Solis hybrid inverter I have to say :-(


    The new 6G (125A) version can not be ordered by wholesalers until January, meaning we can't physically get one until May / June, or so I am told.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,233 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Where did you find this info out unkel as family member is after one and was told initially Q4 2022.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I highly doubt they will have anything open for us on the automation side of things on the 6G and yeah it would be worth getting clarity on that 125A is it only for 15 mins?

    Seems like a real 125A might only be possible with 2x sofars



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Technically the sofar can discharge at 70 amps but the most I've seen out of it was 3.2 kw ( but it will be steady at that even as the voltage drops)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,710 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Yes same here, 3.2kW in or out, so 63A out of my ME3000SP



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,710 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Well if there's one thing I realized is that unless I charge my car from the battery the 100a thing is not really an issue.

    Even for charging the batteries from PV, as the generation starts slowly in the morning, it charges the batteries slowly too, by the time the gen is at 5kwh or more, the batteries are at 80% which lowers the charging to 80a anyway

    I think no one here will put on dish washer/washing machine/dryer/oven & hob all at the same time and it wouldn't matter as that will push past 100a easily.

    I can see the night charging being a problem for people who have that stupid smart rate time of 2 hours where you would want to charge as much as possible in those 2 hours. But with d/n I don't care, will charge at 50a or less over several hours during the night which is better for batteries anyway



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Why not? There's a 100amp inverter, gonna use it, not tip toe round it. If all them need to be on they are put on, you might as well just have the old 4G one.

    And if you are cooking dinner, you could have a hob or 2 on and something in the oven. That's an easy 5kw.

    As for charging my batteries can handle 200 amps constant never mind 100,

    Not a dig at you, but more at solis, if they are advertising a 100amp inverter.. it needs to be 100 amp. Not 100 amp for 15 minutes.

    100 for 25 is better, and alternating every 25 but not ideal.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    100% I feel shafted with the inverter as that's just false advertising and legally speaking probably something there too.

    But in practice I'm not seeing a huge draw from grid because of this, certainly not during cooking but then again induction is quite efficient and I don't see it a constant draw from hob/oven, it seems to go up and down so maybe that's why? Certainly cook for more than 15mins

    A joke that it detects the correct 200a charge/discharge values




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I mentioned this over in another thread I think, but if your battery is empty when you swap over to night rate SD, then technically it doesn't matter either way. You had a charge in the battery and "during daytime" you depleted it. Doesn't matter if you discharged it at full rate and it was empty at 8pm, or at a slower rate and it was empty at 9pm - either scenario you got the charge out of your battery in the timeline to take advantage of the higher rates.

    Now of course if you have a big feck off battery and it's not depleted during the day at the slower discharge rate, then for sure it does matter. Sorry I can't remember what size battery you have off hand.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I think it rarely happened that I drained the whole battery (20kwh dyness) during the good weather, not even when we had a dull day in between it didn't drain to empty (15%) - not for lack of trying

    Most days batteries would be around 50% after the night so maybe when I will be charging from grid I won't even get to use the night charge. Will take some getting used to with my automation since no point charging to 100% and then immediately send to grid once PV picks up in the morning, probably charge to 80% or similar



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,233 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Sound, that's a shame as emailed them direct fee weeks back and they told me would be here by q4. Might email Quentin so tomorrow and see if any way of reserving one for when they get stock next year



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,233 ✭✭✭irishchris


    That's very true now in August but come November December and January I think we will need every bit of our 20kw batteries. Granted some days will be 4/5kwh generated but there will be many 1kw days too



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Had a look at last year's data and from Nov to Feb, nothing over 10kwh per day so it will be tricky to get it right.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,181 ✭✭✭championc


    For me, with 20kW, for wintertime, I'll be able to charge to maybe 60% each night. If we have a cracker of a day, I'll have the space for it, and on a crap day, I'll have enough to get me to 23:00 for when the night rate kicks in.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Fair price for 10kw puredrive battery?

    😎



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    how much load shifting can I forecast with a 5 or 10kw battery per annum?

    😎



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Do you mean charge at night and discharge during the day?

    I suppose Oct - march, for 5kwh.

    For calculating savings, let's take 10 kwh for example, and use energias ev tariff as that's the hot business now.

    10kwh of night, will be 85c

    I'm measuring a round trip loss of 20%. (Ac in, ac out) so you'll get 8kwh out.

    28.82c day which is 2.30, 1.45/day

    (It will be more like 8-9 in and 7ish out, as your discharging to 10-20%) so likely more like 1.20 per day

    Nov-feb for sure, that's 120ish days, let's add in 2 weeks in oct and March.

    160 days, 192 euro saving.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Thanks graememk that is essentially where i arrived at also. What sort of self consumption are people who do not have battery?

    😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    I am struggling to make the numbers work for batteries. Please correct my assumptions

    7.5KW system will produce approx 6.6KW/annum.

    10KW battery so forecast self consumption at 80%, ie. 5320KW.

    The remaining 1330 goes to the grid giving me 18c FIT or 240 euro/annum.

    Of the 5320 consumed, I suggest 20% of that goes towards battery and avoiding night rate, so about 1050KW at 9cent, and the rest avoiding day rate of 29cents, saves me 1300 per annum.

    160 nights a year I load shift from night to day using battery. 10KW battery so in effect shift 8kw due to max discharge and loss AC/DC. 256 euro (generous).

    Load shift+direct cost avoided+FIT=annual savings

    256e+1300e+240e= 1796 (1800e)

    System cost using 1.2Kw rule of thumb is 14,000. About 7.8 years to break even.


    Assuming 45% self consuming without battery, FIT generates 658. (I can reduce self consumption without battery to 20% and big picture doesnt change much unless FIT rate collapses -which it might but not for 6-7 years).

    Consumed all at day rate (2992KW at 29cents) saves 867.

    Total savings no battery = 1525e.

    Cost of system no batteries = 9k, so 5.9 years break even.

    So, 2 extra years to break even with batteries, but save 300/annum for a period thereafter, before batteries need to be replaced. This seems a marginal gain for a lot of extra capital expense, and battery life will be degrading meaningfully after break even point, so we cant really hang our hat on the longevity of the additional savings generated?

    😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,764 ✭✭✭funnyname


    I am of the same mind as yourself when you look at cold hard sums wrt to not getting a battery. Can you also save on the inverter if you don't need a hybrid one if you don't go for a battery?



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Also, batteries just don't die, they just don't work as well, so still will have some residual value too



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    My thinking is to get the hybrid inverter regardless. That way if batteries settle down in price in due course I can buy, or DIY, and capitalise on any technology advancement. I am curious to have my numbers challenged though. Perhaps there is a usage behaviour, a hack, or calculation I have not considered.

    😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,743 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    Ok I will challenge them. Some really big assumptions on there around self consumption %.

    That will vary for each household, and has many factors... habits of using power from sun to do washing, having 2+ people working from home, ev or not....etc

    A battery has to be used daily. The bigger the battery the larger the cost and the less likely it is fully used. A smaller battery has a greater chance of being used multiple times a day... ie my 5kwh battery regularly discharges 7+kwh in a day in summer.

    I think your numbers might make sense for you tho... and I agree that unless u get a cheap battery, diy or are lucky to have a grant discount they might struggle to be anything better than a wash. Razer thin margins at the moment.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,868 ✭✭✭Alkers


    You need to factor in that you're only.sllowed 200e pa tax free from fit and must treat anything above that as income. This might make your non battery payback period a bit worse.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Those calculations don't mean anything to be honest, because:

    1. You won't have the current energia EV rate (or any current rate) for 7 years
    2. You don't know if your usage patterns will be the same for 7 years
    3. Your battery will continue to work past 10 years even, but will have less capacity
    4. kwh/standing charges will only go up
    5. Not sure about your calculation that only 20% of generation will go to battery, in August I had 42% of gen pushed to batteries (but they are 20kwh)
    6. No calculation/payback will beat that feeling of not importing much for 7-8 months a year

    The reality is that the repayment will be quicker than those calculations and at the same time let's be honest here, the only people that can afford solar right now are people who didn't have a problem with electricity bills in the first place.

    I'd say if you have people at home during the day and can easily afford the batteries go for it - you might be thinking about adding batteries next year and the cost might be double, no one knows.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Yeah, like SD mentions above, it's a hard one to call.

    The battery math isn't as compelling as it was 12 months ago. However, the rates you use when doing the calculations flavors the outcome a lot depending on what you are getting in FIT and day/night rates etc. Forgetting the solar/FIT aspect for a while and looking at my own "grid to battery" figures for the year, this is basically the number of units I "load shifted" from night -> day rate. I have a ~9kwhr battery

    Like most things in solar, it generally follows a sine wave during the year. Assuming sept, Oct, Nov, Dec map to Apr, March, Feb, Jan (which is a reasonable guess). So, I'll probably import from grid -> battery approx. 1920 units for the year.

    Using Energia's current €0.08 night and €0.29 day....and applying losses of 10% (my GivEnery battery historically does 9%) that puts it as.

    Cost to charge battery = €0.08 x 1920 = €153.52

    Value of electricity at day rate = €0.29 * (1920 * 0.90) = €501

    Ergo savings from the battery ~ €350/year by using it to store night rate leccie and use it at day rate. This is ignoring the storing of solar generated energy which you can get FIT for also. I import from the grid in summer as I have an algorithm which looks at met.ie and decides if tomorrow will be bad weather wise and sets the charging levels.

    One massive thing that I think the battery does for you though (esp. if you're a heavy user), is that it softens the blow of the bills in winter when solar is pants and the bills are high. The battery saves ~€50/month in the dark months. So yeah, while FIT will give you money in Jun/July that you would get by not having a battery, that money is long spent out of my wallet when Jan comes about. Battery means that those Christmas bills are about €100 lower at that time of year. That's useful to me - but appreciate others may not value it as much

    Overall, it's a question of what you value more. I think you will get a quicker payback without a battery, but overall I think you have (slightly) more flexibility and will generate more over the long run with one....

    Aside: I should say, your consumption profile too is super important. I'm sort of unique as with the mining and the fact that my automation turns on/off miners when I have spare solar, I can use all the space in the batteries or create space as needed if I know it's sunny.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,764 ✭✭✭funnyname


    With the standing charge increasing all the time what size battery would be needed in proportion to the number of units you use in a year (with greater weight towards winter given higher use and lower solar generation) to go off grid? Add in having an EV with V2H functionality as an additional backup, is it possible for some households to do this?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,482 ✭✭✭DC999


    I'm was in the same boat and torn on adding a battery. But I'm gonna get one. Biggest non-cost reason (and I'm cost focussed generally) is solar is supposed to help our house, IE convenience to use what we want when we want it. But without a battery I will obsesssssss about self-consumption % and drive my family bonkers. No one in our house (bar me) is gonna only turn on 1 heavy electrical device at a time - meaning we're importing. And can I expect them to?? I'd like them too - but do we want to double the time needed to cook dinner :)

    Just looking at making grub, all our kitchens are energy hunger. And only the dishwasher can easily load shift.

    Another bigger for me is I feel energy prices are gonna be nuts for years (just IMO). So battery and night rate helps dampen that.

    @bullit_dodger did suggest even a small battery to me months ago when getting our quotes and that I wouldn't be ar3ed running around the house turning stuff on and off. I dismissed that. But have come around since :) Just need to find one that won't break the bank now!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,901 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    For anyone who bought CALB cells from PWOD, what kind of fees are ye seeing for customs & shipping?

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,284 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It's been included in the price (so none extra)



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