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Solar PV battery options

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Do you need to have a hybrid inverter to set up EV charging or will it work with a non hybrid standard inverter?

    Thanks. Can’t seem to find an answer easily online.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,064 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    The EV charging is completely separate to the inverter, so it doesn't matter if it's a hybrid or standard.

    The chargepoint monitors the grid itself and starts charging when there is enough excess.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,454 ✭✭✭championc


    I would also say that you really don't want to be discharging batteries into a car.

    Car charging is a nice bonus of solar, but realistically, the way to car charge is via a day / night meter, at night



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I sent an email to Solis and explained the 15 mins issue with the battery at 100a and then 70a and they basically confirmed that is the case:

    image.png

    Maybe newer FW has the improved values it seems.

    I suppose when it comes to night charging it won't really matter since I will charge slowly anyway.

    Seems to me this is a pretty big limitation that needs to be mentioned in the spec sheet of the inverter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,454 ✭✭✭championc


    Amazing the control with firmware

    Pity they can't derate maybe based on temperatures rather than the mins running. Is that worth replying as a suggestion, since it's likely to be temperature related that they are backing it off.

    Some have units outdoors so will be way cooler than one in an attic



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,064 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Does that mean it will derate to 10 amps after 40 minutes!? That's only 500w!

    I'd have no problem with it being temperature dependant though, extra cooling can be used.

    When the sun's out I'd want to be charging at full speed (still only 0.25C for the batteries)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,585 ✭✭✭DC999


    Yeah, looks like they are using time as the benchmark not temp of battery. Which is crude but at least they can ramp down and then up again. As you say, a battery housed outside (outdoor rated one) or in a shed in winter would have a different temp profile to one in an attic in summer.

    15mins max at 100A gives decent cover for the burstable stuff like kettle, microwave, hairdryer. Could nearly cook your grub on the airfryer :)

    Not sure I'd opt for the one that forces 10A / 500W. 27% (or 25mins) of that (what seems to be a forever-running) 90mins cycle would be at 10A. So 100A, 75A, 10A, 75A. 10A is not a battery at that point IMO. Could end up importing 90% at peak rates if on a smart meter with TOU



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,677 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Can you "cheat it"? Set the max-discharge rate to say 90A and does it avoid going into that reduction loop? You might want a constant 90A over a 100A and then that reduced rate.

    Just a thought.....



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,303 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    I'd be pretty certain that is a typo and should be 100A. i.e. cycle between 75-100A ad infinitum.

    The context of the rest of the sentence gives it away.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Yes @Jonathan that's how I have read it, it will stay at 70a indefinitely if it runs at 100a for over 15 mins. If it the load is then under 60a for at least 25 mins, then after that 25 mins it is allowed to go to 100a again and repeat.

    Funny how I haven't noticed that in over a year with the system but also shows I am not pushing 100a on a regular basis.

    I wonder if the same applies when you're charging from the sun (or at night even - which I haven't done once), batteries are rated 50a so the 100a would only need 25a from the four which is 0.5C I guess.

    I will have to go back and look at my data from the last year curious if it always happened.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,064 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    No once you're over the 70 amps.. (I measured 68...) It will derate after 15 mins

    Bouncing 100-70-100 is better than the current setup.

    When your getting yours update could you cc me in on the email and I'll try and get mine done too


    Yep it derates on charge too

    Screenshot_20220829-182703.png

    The large jump in blue is the iboost kicking in.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 189 ✭✭connesha


    What Solis FW version are you on?

    I'm on C700B1, and am only ever getting 65A in or out (it drops from 100A almost immediately).

    Last time I checked FW version was a few months ago, and was on 3A0029 at the time. I guess Solis updated it silently at some stage, as I never requested or was informed of an update...



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,303 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Sounds like one of the test firmware versions that @silver_sky got...

    They must be doing their testing in production 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 189 ✭✭connesha


    😂 Lucky me!

    Keep us updated @SD_DRACULA if you can... I need to get on that new FW train too...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Yeah we'll see what happens, still on 3A0029

    Sort of afraid new FW will cause other issues or break modbus stuff.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    Jaysus, don't be wishing for updated firmware. I'm on 3D0032 which apparently is the latest version. It's back to dumping 300W~ constantly from the battery. I've also got an issue where it flips from import to export constantly once generation dies down. That may be unrelated but it's worse on this firmware than A10032 which I was on. I asked them to roll it back.

    I wouldn't be too impressed with them changing it without telling me. If it's a security/safety issue they need to let people know.

    @SD_DRACULA I can send commands to it on the latest version.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    If they want to start getting into changing stuff randomly I'll be blocking ports. Local access only.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,454 ✭✭✭championc


    They are likely using a reverse proxy, so you'd have to stop the inverter talking to their cloud.

    The inverter will constantly be looking for a code, so in their database, they have the likes of. Silver_Sky Inverter ID = 3D0032, so when they match, nothing happens.

    They then set your inverter ID to something else, and immediately at next poll, the inverter pull the version tagged against it.

    Both of my Sofar inverters came with in-built sticks. They use the data sent to the Solarman Cloud to defend or support warranty claims



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    No issue making it stop talking to their cloud. Re-enable it on the router if there's a technical issue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,691 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    That rightly puts me off buying a Solis hybrid inverter I have to say :-(


    The new 6G (125A) version can not be ordered by wholesalers until January, meaning we can't physically get one until May / June, or so I am told.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,276 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Where did you find this info out unkel as family member is after one and was told initially Q4 2022.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I highly doubt they will have anything open for us on the automation side of things on the 6G and yeah it would be worth getting clarity on that 125A is it only for 15 mins?

    Seems like a real 125A might only be possible with 2x sofars



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,064 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Technically the sofar can discharge at 70 amps but the most I've seen out of it was 3.2 kw ( but it will be steady at that even as the voltage drops)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,691 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Yes same here, 3.2kW in or out, so 63A out of my ME3000SP



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,691 ✭✭✭✭unkel




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Well if there's one thing I realized is that unless I charge my car from the battery the 100a thing is not really an issue.

    Even for charging the batteries from PV, as the generation starts slowly in the morning, it charges the batteries slowly too, by the time the gen is at 5kwh or more, the batteries are at 80% which lowers the charging to 80a anyway

    I think no one here will put on dish washer/washing machine/dryer/oven & hob all at the same time and it wouldn't matter as that will push past 100a easily.

    I can see the night charging being a problem for people who have that stupid smart rate time of 2 hours where you would want to charge as much as possible in those 2 hours. But with d/n I don't care, will charge at 50a or less over several hours during the night which is better for batteries anyway



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,064 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Why not? There's a 100amp inverter, gonna use it, not tip toe round it. If all them need to be on they are put on, you might as well just have the old 4G one.

    And if you are cooking dinner, you could have a hob or 2 on and something in the oven. That's an easy 5kw.

    As for charging my batteries can handle 200 amps constant never mind 100,

    Not a dig at you, but more at solis, if they are advertising a 100amp inverter.. it needs to be 100 amp. Not 100 amp for 15 minutes.

    100 for 25 is better, and alternating every 25 but not ideal.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    100% I feel shafted with the inverter as that's just false advertising and legally speaking probably something there too.

    But in practice I'm not seeing a huge draw from grid because of this, certainly not during cooking but then again induction is quite efficient and I don't see it a constant draw from hob/oven, it seems to go up and down so maybe that's why? Certainly cook for more than 15mins

    A joke that it detects the correct 200a charge/discharge values

    image.png




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,677 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I mentioned this over in another thread I think, but if your battery is empty when you swap over to night rate SD, then technically it doesn't matter either way. You had a charge in the battery and "during daytime" you depleted it. Doesn't matter if you discharged it at full rate and it was empty at 8pm, or at a slower rate and it was empty at 9pm - either scenario you got the charge out of your battery in the timeline to take advantage of the higher rates.

    Now of course if you have a big feck off battery and it's not depleted during the day at the slower discharge rate, then for sure it does matter. Sorry I can't remember what size battery you have off hand.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,608 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I think it rarely happened that I drained the whole battery (20kwh dyness) during the good weather, not even when we had a dull day in between it didn't drain to empty (15%) - not for lack of trying

    Most days batteries would be around 50% after the night so maybe when I will be charging from grid I won't even get to use the night charge. Will take some getting used to with my automation since no point charging to 100% and then immediately send to grid once PV picks up in the morning, probably charge to 80% or similar



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