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VW ID.3

1157158160162163340

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 553 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    Yep that fixed it. Now all I need is for it to stop going into comfort mode when I have eco mode selected.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,489 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    A guy on twitter had issues with a Leaf 40 similar to Rusky Rusky....

    In that Leaf case - it went to a particular Nissan site in UK* that had special training.

    But there was a lot of faff involved as Nissan wouldn't accept the leafspy info.

    Took a few goes to get it improved.

    Its a learning curve for the dealers and manufacturers.

    At normal dealer level id expect them to swop out the full pack.

    The problem with changing cells is that you need (as i understand it) to balance the new cells to match the not faulty cells already on the car.

    *it might have been a Nissan dealer with a specialist guy as opposed to Nissan themselves - the point is more that its not a standard issue dealer skill.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,408 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭bodgerfederer


    ‘He also mentioned that he sees it dropping when he turns the car on, without even driving it!!....’


    i get this sometimes too, should I be worried? I assume it was just the gom recalculating based on my last driving?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭kris_2021




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,408 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    Agreed, the only reason that the same issue bugs me is that it defaults back from Sport.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 553 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    I actually don’t notice a difference between eco and comfort. Except battery runs down quicker in comfort mode. So I just keep it in eco or try to keep it in eco all the time.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 615 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    Eco throttles the power. Battery life tested the 0-100 times when he got his car and eco was ab 2s slower. You can def feel dampened throttle response in eco mode. There was no difference in 0-100 kph between comfort and sport modes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 615 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    At least VW agreed to test it. Whether they are going to do anything ab the weak cells is a different matter. But I won’t give up that easily:)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 615 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    Someone in fb group mentioned that cells were replaced on some cars in Belgium.



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  • Posts: 12,708 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    This is what my battery is showing after almost 8.5 Months and 32,000 Kms.

    It's roughly 3.5 % loss which can be taken with a grain of salt too, I notice no range loss of course, my commutes leave me home with the same charge as I would have from new at similar driving styles. What I didn't get was a reading from new, only today.

    Ideally you'd want to run the battery down to 0% and charge it back up and record the Kwh used and subtract 10% maybe for charger inefficiency.

    Highest battery cell voltage was 3.84 and minimum was 3.83 taken at 64% charge.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭jogdish


    Hi,

    Looking to do, Galway-Dublin return next week, personally I enjoy the stop in Athlone to break things up. However on the return leg, that isnt ideal. Just looking for people experience on good, easy fast chargers that are reliable. Will be around the M50 (north side), not going near the city.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,210 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    "It's a rather high value, but also the use case was specific: "...the car covered the first 15,000 km (9,000 miles) within the first three months of ownership. At the time, it was charged almost exclusively (90%) at 100 kW DC fast chargers up to full, and regularly discharged below 10% State of Charge (SOC). Later, the usage profile has changed to mostly 11 kW AC and up to 80% SOC."

    So which does the most harm , cooking at 100kW or discharge to below 10%

    When I bought the car they said <=80% and .=20% so net usable is 60% or 34.8 which is a bit more than my 30 kW leaf... :(

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭kris_2021


    I charged from 18 to 91% today almost 42kwh. That would give me around 57.5 kWh full battery. 18k driven in nearly 3 years.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,451 ✭✭✭KCross


    I charged from 18 to 91% today almost 42kwh. That would give me around 57.5 kWh full battery.

    FYI: You will have charging losses in that 42kWh so not all of it gets to the battery so you don't really have 57.5kWh usable at 100%. Probably the same as most others, you have ~54kWh available.

    18k driven in nearly 3 years.

    3 years?... <2, I think! 😉



  • Posts: 12,708 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    "So which does the most harm , cooking at 100kW or discharge to below 10%"

    Neither, the id3 doesn't charge at 100 Kw for any length of time and when plugging in from around 30% and above it won't see more than around 60Kw which is nothing for a 60 and 84 odd Kwh battery. I've never seen anywhere near 100 Kw with the tour 5 but then I have so much range fast charging is very rare but it would be nice to have 130 Kw all the way to at least 70% but that will be wishful thinking probably with 2.4 it won't be much better time will tell but even say 130 Kw until 60% and 90 Kw to 80%, now that would be a real improvement but wishful thinking. Electric cars really need to improve their fast charging times.

    Driving down to 10% is no problem or charging to 100% when you need the range use it and don't be worried about it. The well known and proven facts are li batteries last longer the less they are at 100% or at very low charge % so charging to 70 or 80% is a good idea and not letting it below 30% but when you need it don't worry about it, worst of all is leaving it at 100% all day every day or if you're one of those people that charge to 100% drive 5 Km to the shops and back and plug in again and charge to 100% this isn't good.

    Temperature is also a factor the cooler the better. Depends on how well the id3 can manage heat when fast charging and how hot it gets and how often it gets to this hot temp.

    The BMW id3 has a state of the art cooling system and I rarely saw it go over 30 Deg C and if it did it didn't for long and it quickly cooled to 20 Deg C again. The battery in the i3 2017 was really fantastic, 4.5 years and 140,000 odd Kms later it showed the same 28-29 Kwh that it did when I got it at 9,500 Kms and 9 months old, if the 58 and 77 Kwh id batteries hold up as well they'll make absolutely fantastic 2nd hand cars.

    There's no point paying for Ionity or ESB fast charger with the id3 unless plugging in at very low charge then from around 30-40% it would be cheaper to plug out and find a 50 Kw ESB charger or easygo. If plugging in from around 30% charge there's no advantage using Ionity.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭kris_2021


    yeah meant 2 years :) (ionity cashel is still giving free juice ;) )



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,489 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    Was your 18 to 91 percent charge at Ionity Cashel then?????.

    All 4 units were kaput (as Bjorn Neyland would say) on Saturday evening when someone went to use them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭kris_2021


    yeah in Cashel on Sunday. 3 out of 4 were working. there is almost always at least one down in there! i know as i live in Cashel

    Post edited by kris_2021 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭wotzgoingon


    but that will be wishful thinking probably with 2.4 it won't be much better time will tell

    Didn't someone on here a few months ago say he was on 2.4, he wasn't a regular so was likely talking sh*te.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭eagerv


    Battery lifes latest video today he says 2.4 has given him extra charging speed. Can't post the link at work atm.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,564 ✭✭✭✭TitianGerm




  • Posts: 12,708 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I think it's really bad if you have to be plugged in at such a low SOC to get high charging speeds but pity he didn't plug in at higher SOC to find out what it would charge at. To think the 77 Kwh might not get update to charging curve until 3.0 is really ridiculous considering it's a larger battery it should be able to take more charging power.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 615 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    Just did a return trip Cork Dublin in my disabled ID.3. Had a good weather last Friday on the way to Dublin, sunny, 20-21C, tail wind. Stopped at portlaoise plaza for a snack and a top up. 176km at 100kmh gps speed (avg 90kph) and 56% soc. Calc 14x1.76/0.54=45.6kWh battery estimate. Topped up from 46% to 80% - 17.17Kwh charged.

    20220722_134742.jpg

    Continued my journey to Dublin. Complete stats - 263km, 83kmh avg speed, 13.7kWh consumption, total soc used 77%. Calc 13.7x2.63/0.77=46.8kWh. I do suspect that soc is not linear which adds errors into calculation as I have not gone below 40% soc due to the topup.

    20220722_170352.jpg

    On the return leg last sunday, the weather was not as pleasant due to strong headwind and rain showers all the way to cork. As expected this negatively effected my consumption. I drove to Cashel to eat and top up at 50kw charger as I wasn't sure that remaining 42% soc and 148km GOM would be enough to drive 100km home. Calc 16.1x1.64/0.58=45.5kWh. Charged from 42% to 65% - 12.08kWh.

    20220724_151002.jpg

    Got home with 30% SOC. Total stats 265km, 16.2kWh/100km, 79kmh av speed, 93%SOC used. Theoretically i couldve made home without charging but it want worth the risk. 16.2x2.65/0.93=46.2kWh.

    20220724_162956.jpg

    So all back of envelope calculations yet again point out that the battery is not well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭jogdish


    Few around town journeys today, twice the folowing happened:

    Driving along, and the ID light goes all red and it warns me to brake now, there was nothing that was odd in traffic, then pulling into my drive the car applied the brake freaking out thinking I was about to hit something.

    This happened to anyone else, have I some setting done wrong?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,564 ✭✭✭✭TitianGerm




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭jogdish


    Twas awfully dusty, the rain cleaned? it I had assumed. Perhaps a wipe.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,604 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    I imagine the brake now warning would be the radar in the badge giving a false collision detection warning?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,116 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    I have changed the mode on mine a few times over the last few days. It always stays on the last one I picked when I get back into the car.

    Set it to Eco yesterday and was on Eco this morning when I got into the car. Strange that it is not doing this in all of them, mine is still on software 2.3



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 553 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    It’s not always. It’s literally random. That’s what makes it annoying. You can go 2 weeks in one mode and then just switches. I’m on 2.3 s as well but this has been going on since I got the car (first edition). It’s something in the software. Too bad vw doesn’t let you log faults in their software



This discussion has been closed.
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