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Who Watches the Watchmen (Our Chit Chat Thread)

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Comments

  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,361 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    Trust me B. You want to remain in ignorance. 😮🤢😁

    Well after fiddling about with my heuer and its oddball 'waterproof' case I went down the rabbit hole looking into its origins.

    First off I found the patent for the 'waterproof' case design from 1935 I gather.

    Gallet copy.jpg

    You can see how i works from these pics of a Gallet chronograph.

    rrs-l1600.jpg

    The main case and movement and crystal are in one peice and mounted into the case and held fast with screws.

    sss-l1600.jpg

    Note how the rear of the Heuer "Bund" is the same, only because it's a much larger watch(43mm) than the Gallet(35mm) scales are a little different.

    Untitled Image


    The first watch to use it was the Gallet Flight Officer chronograph Flight Officer chrono from 1938. The first 'waterproof' chronograph.

    Untitled Image

    Rotating bezel, chrono, timezones marked, dead cool. Issued in small numbers to the USAF and worn by President Truman. Their ads for the watch followed the time honoured option of stick it in a fish tank Ted.😁

    Gallet ad.JPG

    "Guaranteed WATERPROOF!" Also note the "Clamshell" thing. A suspiciously small step from "Oyster" ...

    So why did they go this route? Well screwbacks were already around for ages and worked fine for circular watches, but were about as much use as a chocolate fireguard for any other shape and chronographs were also problematic as they had recently gone two button and a crown. The 20's and 30's saw high popularity in tank style watches so this worked well for them and then Gallet adapted it to the chronos. It's more expensive to manufacture and the four screws have to be torqued down equally and well to seal, and they can back out too easily, so the case design didn't last much longer than the 1950's in common use. Except in the Leonidas Italian military issued watches.

    Untitled Image Untitled Image

    Which Heuer bought and copied lock stock and barrel(the case is slightly different, but everything else is interchangable).

    So an archaic case design unchanged from the 1930's lasted until the 80's in common military use and hung on in very specialised areas and is still on the stock list for some specialised areas today. Interestingly the bundeswehr spec called for 3 bar water resistance, but the case design surpassed that.

    Many worry about Artificial Intelligence. I worry far more about Organic Idiocy.



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,361 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    I thought this was a joke when it came up on youtube,


    But no, it's a real thing. How much of a lazy barsteward and a gullible one at that would you need to be?

    Many worry about Artificial Intelligence. I worry far more about Organic Idiocy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Had a spin up to Belfast today. Tried on a nice jlc in pride and pinion. Impressive watch.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,816 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    What else did you try on Mick and do tell us a bit more about your experience in there 😂


    And what JLC was that, perhaps a certain model Reverso that has been pictured in this forum before 😉

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 945 ✭✭✭njburke


    takayama-watch_aa1y3jlk.jpeg

    I got the finger out and ordered three of these from three vendors in Japan. I can finally get my grand Seiko on the wrist, after 14 months of safe queen type fondling. 5.8 seconds in a year for anyone that cares about such detail.

    I've been doing a drunken observatory trial type deal with a biscuit tin of quartz watches since before Christmas. There's some oddly satisfying about reading 0.0 seconds/ day with 40 quid meter on a 2000 euro watch.

    I'ld like to have attended one of those trials in it's day, I imagine it's like a race meeting, with brandy and a feed of ortolan. Quartz is a bit like ortolan, you can get the pleasure but you must cover your face with the napkin to hide the shame.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭Fitz II


    I have seen these tools before from ALS for their 30 day reserve watches, the torque required and the ammount of winding make some sense there, but on a regular watch it seem a little excessive....but look the Hodinkee travel clock sold



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,361 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    True dat and that was the epitome of low quality tat.

    Many worry about Artificial Intelligence. I worry far more about Organic Idiocy.



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,361 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    The trials have an interesting history alright. Most of the big brands competed hard to win as it was good marketing. For most of it Zenith, Longines and Omega made it a three horse race. Longines won the most, though oddly were the least likely to sell official chronometer dialled watches. They did use the tagline "the world's most honoured watch" as part of their marketing speil. Brands like Movado could stand out too. Brands like Patek and AP didn't figure, neither did Rolex. Even though Hans Wilsdorf put forward the first wristwatch movement for chronometer rating, it seems they didn't see the marketing value after that. To be fair it required the deep pockets of very big companies so you'd want to see the cost/benefit.

    Later on Seiko came along o try and gain traction outside of Japan and started to upset the Swiss. Them and Girard Perregaux with their high beat calibre were pretty much the last men standing with mechanical chronometers, as by the mid 60's the Swiss were entering prototype quartz calibres, which they were very proud of. In the last trial the only mechanicals in the top ten were GP with Seiko ahead of them. The most accurate mechanical watch in the Swiss trial's history competing with the latest tech was a Japanese brand. So the Swiss got the hump, closed the trials and took their ball back. 😁 There's talk of them starting up again, but not open to non Swiss competitors, of course...

    Untitled Image

    That Seiko and the GP were the only two watches that were entitled to print "astronomical observatory chronometer, officially certified" on their dials. That was another difference; only GP and Seiko sold watches fitted with the chronometer trial movements. You could actually walk in off the street and buy one(by selling a kidney). You couldn't in the case of Longines, Omega, Zenith et al. You could buy the base calibres alright, but not the fettled to within a micron chronometer movements.

    The wider observatory rating were much tougher than the old COSC chronometer rating. For a start they included the whole watch, not just bare movements and went on for much longer and subjected the watches to wider temps and vibration. To get more marketing behind the new quartz Girard Perregaux put their 350 series through those tests and passed, though as far as I know never put that on the dials. Probably added too much to the cost and retail price.

    Many worry about Artificial Intelligence. I worry far more about Organic Idiocy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Yes I think it's a certain boardsies jlc. Very impressive on the wrist. Didn't do a lot more as was up with a mate. We did look in McNeely's and they had a Tiffany dial oyster which they said is ridiculous..4k watch listed at over 20k.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,179 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    now that is a nonsense, its not even a tiffany watch

    that said Unkel was right about those!



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  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,361 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    Reversos are a very nice watch indeed.

    While they always added a premium, the Tiffany dial thing has gone nuts of late, that six and a half million quid auction/money laundering/dubious sale has egged it on even more.

    Many worry about Artificial Intelligence. I worry far more about Organic Idiocy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,216 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    Have quite a bit of US TV on at the moment and as I think I've mentioned before? The ad breaks are interesting. Prescription meds, Medi-care part B&C agents, cars and reams of mortgage and refi ads with veteran discounts 😉

    Anyway over the last week or so, MVMT that watch brand beloved 😛 by many are really pushing themselves as a luxury brand with US origins 🤷‍♂️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 945 ✭✭✭njburke


    The trials must have been good craic all the same unless those working in the watch industry are particularly stiff. That Jean Claude Bivier guy looks to be a live one though. I suppose that Japs would come over and photograph everything.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭Fitz II


    If its the grand date reverso up there, thats my watch on consignment.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭Fitz II


    Those tiffany 41mm have been very volitile. P&P had a instagram post about them there were dealer buys at over 50k sterline in december in they are back down to about 22k sterling now, so a few people upside-down AF in them. If you had one at retail you are quids in though...unkle called it, and I still cannot believe it. Do these people not have eyes they are not a nice colour.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,179 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    have you watched dopesick Banie? those drug companies over there are shameless.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,179 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    that one really gets me, its just a dial colour that is similar to tiffany how that is worth a 4-5x premium is bananas.

    Flex culture is strong.

    In other news the DSOTM is retailing at £10.5k now im told from a friend in London 😣



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,216 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    Yeah, Myself and the Mrs binged it in a day. The book is a brilliant piece of journalism too IMO.

    I've been taking Oxycontin and Oxynorm on a PRN basis for the past 2 and a half years. Initially on a fairly regular basis but less so now. My usage is the inverse of the effectiveness of nerve ablation procedures. I get about 6-8 weeks of near zero need for Oxy and then as the pain ramps up so does the Oxy use until the next procedure.

    Its an incredibly effective mode of pain relief and on my bad days it really is the difference between being bed ridden or, at least managing some degree of mobility.

    Until I'd watched dopesick I thought 40mg a day was a huge amount...

    Then I saw the scene where the Dr and the older patient were talking about how much they were taking to avoid becoming "Dopesick"...

    That's when I realized I was grand 😉



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,825 ✭✭✭micks_address




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭Fitz II


    Yep Darkside has gone up from 9700 to 10500 this week.....FML



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,931 ✭✭✭hitemfrank


    Looking on Chrono24 (I know, pinch of salt and all that) the Milguass has gone up similar amount this week as well. Chrono have it 10,900 (+- 1150)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,179 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    i was referring to an omega RRP increase, but im not surprised at a milgauss inflation!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,931 ✭✭✭hitemfrank


    Ah, was thinking it was just second hand values going insane everywhere.

    That mark up is in line with the Rolex mark up on some of their models. A case of keeping up with the Joneses from Omega?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,816 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    They're trying. But failing. Nobody buys those overpriced Omega watches at retail. Not even if the AD begs you to please buy the watch as they have tonnes of them in the safe in the back and getting deliveries every day 🤣

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,197 ✭✭✭✭Cienciano




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,669 ✭✭✭✭893bet


    New beer watch

    image.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭mailforkev


    I wonder what model it is. Maybe we got lucky getting one of those silly money Tiffany dial OPs and the state coffers will get a nice boost.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,179 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭mailforkev


    Ah, I should have read to the end. Indo articles tend to make my mind wander half way through.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,693 ✭✭✭david


    Not worthy of a new thread.

    Has anyone experienced “clicking” spring bars, if you push or pull them when installed correctly they click in either direction. Had one on an old seiko but it never troubled me. Have two on my Hamilton and wear the nato a bit tighter so it is a lot more noticeable when I flex my wrist etc. Any solution or recommendations for quality spring bars?

    Everything else on the khaki field mech is so well engineered for the pocket change it cost just this one niggle is annoying me.



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