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Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 434 ✭✭Roger the cabin boy




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 434 ✭✭Roger the cabin boy


    How about the regulations and regulators and the industry put some effort in and get it right from the start?

    But that would mean proper regulation, genuine training and apprenticeships and a open and transparent industry.

    In Ireland? 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭Manion


    Is there any way to tell what fuse you have? I looked at the meter box and it says 80/60 which could be anything. My house is a new build 2016 with a heat pump, so that would suggest a higher rating for the supply.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,770 ✭✭✭✭The Nal


    Install due on Tuesday. house was built in the 50s. No idea about the electric board but it looks very old. So, err, we'll see I suppose.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    If you look at your main fuse (not the ESB one) It could be in a small consumer unit in your meterbox or in your main consumer unit, Its likely to be 63 or 80 amps. That will be an indication of your fuse, or supply, 63amps is usually 12KVA and 80 is usually 16KVA.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    Mine says 60/80A TypeII, electrician was happy with it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭Manion


    IMG_20211107_142322.jpg

    Based on the above I can see the RCCB is rated to 63As but right down the bottom I see that I have a red RCB rated to 80A in the consumer unit. Not sure what to infer about that. Having a mains fuse in the CU higher than the ESBN meter fuse doesn't make a lot of sense though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,648 ✭✭✭Felexicon


    It's actually a very grey area at the moment.

    I imagine it will officially be scrapped early 2022.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    I'm only telling what he said to me, no need to be such a smart arse about it, I have his number as he rang to let me know what time he was arriving at, I can give it to you and you can discuss it with him.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭Manion


    Scrapped in what way? Installation from the meter? From reading around on the issue from the UK the main concern was the legal rights to the meter box and not the electrical soundness of the installation. Frankly I wouldn't be getting an EV it it meant running cabling all the way back to the CU that is buried in the middle of the house, and the house is only 5 years old.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,648 ✭✭✭Felexicon


    Yeah same issue is being raised here. It's not a safety issue. Also concerns about new smart meters being able to fit when sub board is installed in meter cabinet.

    Don't think it will affect the ability to use IP rated board outside cabinet.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭Manion


    Tbh it seemed dubious in the UK even regarding the rights the the network provider. I watched one video where the lads did a deep dive in it and the enforcement was that the network could disconnect your power if they lacked space to upgrade the meter. It really sounded like catastrophic hyperbole.

    I think the clarification from Safe electric is good, it's not their rolls to miss use safety regs to enforce a company's policies. I'd be disappointed if they changed. Regardless, I'll be getting mine installed from the meter at the end of the month. If that causes issues with smart metering, I could not give a fiddlers.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,471 ✭✭✭KCross


    Since you have a heat pump you more than likely have an 80A fuse unless its a really small heat pump.

    Some providers will show it on the bill as "MIC" which will be either 12 (60A) or 16 (80A)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭Manion


    I cannot see it on my previous Energia, Electric Ireland or Bord Gais bills (The choices of being a switcher) but I ring up ESBN tomorrow to find out. I guess it's important for the charger installer.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,471 ✭✭✭KCross


    Yup, that will be the best way. They will know what you asked for when you sent in your connection form.

    You have said you have an 80A main fuse on your consumer unit so I think its reasonable to say you have at least an 80A fuse in the meter box. The electrician will be able to check the gauge of the tails and if all that matches up you're good to go.

    Just get a load sensing charge point either way and it will be fine then.

    Post edited by KCross on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 434 ✭✭Roger the cabin boy


    I was being sarcastic with regards to your installer, not you :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 434 ✭✭Roger the cabin boy


    The industry and its contractors are a mess.

    Template engineering executed by technicians not engineers with no scope for variation and a "worst case scenario" applied to every install.

    It's infuriating.

    My installer (who followed a std template so now i can't utilise the full 80a main fuse capacity) told me that next month, the ESB will be stopping access to the meter box and insist that any work be completed outside of it

    **** nuts.

    I'll be getting solar panels installed at some point. When i do, I'll find a electrical engineer to wire up the house properly, not to some state run bodies worst-case scenario.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    Oops, sorry about that. In fairness to him he was a decent fella and was working under the guidelines of circet who seem to be very strict. I suggested following the cable route for the shower which would have eliminated all drilling but they aren't allowed into attics either. Everything had to be recorded after the install.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,566 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    No job is just an hour's work. You're living in fantasy land if you think that.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    I thought the items on the cu are overload switches not fuses, my main switch is 63A there's no fuse on the board. Does my fuse being rated 60/80A mean it can handle 60A continuously with 80A blowing it, similar to what you see in car charging circuits?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 434 ✭✭Roger the cabin boy


    It means the drone who fitted it didn't remove part of the sticker to indicate what fuse is actually installed (60a or 80a) and the ESB inspector who signed it off probably didn't bother opening the cabinet.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,471 ✭✭✭KCross


    Probably just a terminology thing but your main consumer unit has a main fuse/switch/trip (whatever you want to call it). When you flip that, the entire house goes dead. Whatever that switch is rated for is the max you can draw on that consumer unit regardless of what rating the ESB fuse is in the meter box.

    The fuse in the meter box is either a 60A or an 80A.... thats what "60A/80A" means on the side of it. It could be either. You wont know for 100% certain unless you break the seal and eyeball the fuse which you are not allowed do. Thats ESB's property. If that fuse is, say 60A, it wont blow at exactly 60A. Its more tolerant than that but you wouldnt want to be regularly running it at 60A either.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,566 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    This somewhat contradicts your claim that the cheapest option was the best option, does it not?



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 17,639 Mod ✭✭✭✭Quin_Dub


    I got my kit from Electric Ireland installed by KN and they crawled through my attic to run the cable from the location outside to the Consumer unit - I have a dormer so access is pretty simple , but going that way was the shortest and easiest pathway - The only drilling they did was for the screws to mount the unit (and the isolator) to the wall of my house.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭Manion


    Hard to see how it would be different for Domestic. It's kinda how the industry works not just here but everywhere and all trades. I've a lot or respect for technicians and certainly at this stage the most I can mange is rewiring a plug. Once you move into designing bespoke solutions though thats where you need a lot more experience and accreditation, and a long with it comes higher costs. You could always hire an engineer to do the job for you, at probably close to 10x what you paid.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭ustari


    IMG_20211108_131027.jpg IMG_20211108_131102 (1).jpg


    Thanks for all the advice in here recently, just had my install done today. Was hoping to have the cable go into the back of the isolator and have the wall box directly on top of it but not possible. Happy with it and looking forward to having more control over the charging.

    Car is only a hybrid so I didn't "need" the charger but was causing my RCBO to trip which meant all the sockets would lose power. Gets very annoying when you are in bed and have to go down to sort it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    That would have been fantastic for my install, anyway it's done now and it's so handy being able to charge whenever it's needed, next stop a full EV 😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,838 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    That's my point installed, I've painted the conduit and it looks a lot better.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 271 ✭✭tomister


    So is it from now that they can’t wire directly into the meter box? I’m getting mine installed on Friday and was under the assumption it would be from the meter box through an isolator and then into the EV charger.



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