Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all! We have been experiencing an issue on site where threads have been missing the latest postings. The platform host Vanilla are working on this issue. A workaround that has been used by some is to navigate back from 1 to 10+ pages to re-sync the thread and this will then show the latest posts. Thanks, Mike.
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Forget the prices, just hold enough stock to make the schemes!

  • 26-10-2021 2:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭


    Seems to me that the best solution for small farming is to forget the livestock prices.

    Purchase enough cattle and a few sheep to just make the minimum requirement for the schemes.

    No stores, no silage, no sheds, no feed, no fertilizer.

    For a 50 acre farm, 10 weanlings and 10 weathers, buy in March and sell on October, if you get a profit from the sales then great if not then so what.

    Buy 10 weanling Fresians bullocks cheap and sell them to factory cheap.

    What's wrong with the above?



«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,612 ✭✭✭kk.man


    They won't graze 50 acres in the part of the world. Undergrazed ground produces poor livestock.

    I see where you are coming from but the schemes the government are proposing will give us less money than we are currently getting.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,123 ✭✭✭✭Danzy


    Your approach is correct but aim to minimize cost while maximizing output within that aim.


    That might mean 40 livestock units on your place. Depends on your farm. The number depends on your land and layout.

    Post edited by Danzy on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Easten


    With the cost of everything going up, I don't think it's viable to farm in many of the current systems. Unless you are on grade 1 land you are really struggling. Green diesel nearly at the Euro all other costs will increase even more now too. You are not the only one thinking this way. Best advice for farming I got from teagasc when doing the green cert over 20 years ago and that was "get a job off farm"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Sure but you'd still not make a living from 40 units.

    Why bother?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Would it make more sense to graze 20 acres and leave the rest to nature or grow native trees or something?



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,509 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    If left to nature, under an environmental scheme, with a payment, then yes,

    If no payment, then very few, would do that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,123 ✭✭✭✭Danzy


    It would probably be easier to have 40 white head heifers on fifty acres than 10 Friesian bullocks.

    You wouldn't make a good living off that much but you'd make enough that you wouldn't turn away either , if you were in all the schemes had a reasonable bps.


    Land is good for building up a ball of money as well, especially if you have an off farm job. You could have 50k tied up in cattle after a few years and only reduced your tax and still be lightly stocked.


    It's really hard to beat in that regard when played right.


    I'm not disagreeing with your premis, just that you can do as you say but with higher numbers.


    Squeezing every kg of beef one can out of an acre is often a mug's game.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,123 ✭✭✭✭Danzy


    Are you wondering what to do with the home place.?


    I don't mean to pry.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Something else you could do to add to the bottom line is produce something pedigree - this is where everyone will say there's no money in that.

    I'd agree though have enough stock to make use of the place, great to put the feet up for the Winter if you want to.

    Make the schemes work for you, not let them work you for the benefit of others.

    Some type of a shed is never not handy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 592 ✭✭✭GNWoodd


    Whatever stock you have at say end September need to be factory fit . You don’t want to get caught with TB and be forced to over winter .

    Many people already farming this way but with maybe slightly more stock .



  • Advertisement
  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I think stocking for 7 months is 1.8 times the 12 month rate



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Birdnuts


    I agree with the sentiments of the OP - no point killing yourself and the land producing for ever smaller margins. Alot of lads around my place in North Mayo seem to have come to the same conclusion. Helps too that there is more "off farm" work around these days too. Farm shops seem to be a growth industry too and a lad down the road is making good money selling the goose eggs for 3euro a pop!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,123 ✭✭✭✭Danzy


    I set a target for myself to make off cattle last year, a number I knew I could readily do.


    It took a lot of pressure off. Knowing leeway was built-in. Thankfully this year with cattle factory prices. It was well exceeded.


    As Jjameson said in another thread, there is a spot on each farm where pushing for a bit more becomes counter productive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st



    Remembering that it requires; artificial fertilizer, sheds, silage making, weed killer, slurry spreading, machinery, feed, vets, medicines, oversupply of meat.

    Who benefits from high stock numbers?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,478 ✭✭✭J.O. Farmer


    There's a stocking rate in between being way understocked and high numbers.

    I think what's being advocated is that optimum rate which is different for every farm but will minimise or elimnate a lot of the costs.

    Some costs like vets and medication is going to be incurred once you have any animal even a pet dog. To be fair the pet dog could cost you more than the cattle in that regard.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 967 ✭✭✭Count Mondego


    I have been slightly understocked the last few years and it's far worse than being overstocked. An absolute balls if grass gets ahead of you and very difficult to predict growth patterns a few weeks out. I have about 40 acres that you couldn't cut and bale but produces alot of grass. Cutting silage 3 weeks earlier has resulted in a real glut of grass in late july/August and I could be short in June. I need to keep a closer eye on it and take another cut of silage off one or two of the meadows instead. I feel that there has been mental grass growth in the past 2 years.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Did you spread slurry of fertilizer?

    Is there something that could be done with the surplus acreage?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Not saying what you’re suggesting is wrong - but if you’re doing this, would leasing the place be an option?

    The income is tax free, and you don’t have any hassle, not even for the summer months…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Financially this could be better but I'd only be adding to the problems for my own greed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    I don’t really understand your reply, but fair enough…

    If you considered and discounted leasing that’s fine, it was just so you know your options…



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 967 ✭✭✭Count Mondego


    Outside of silage ground and 1.5 bags of 18-6-12 for the grassland in spring, I'd put out nothing throughout the year. Slurry goes out after silage. I work full time away from the farm, it's probably too big to be doing part time at 120 acres. Without the auld lad I'd probably have to rent half of it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Why not drop the fertilizer, silage, sheds, feeding and winter stores?

    Take the winter off. Reduce the workload. Reduce the costs.

    Seriously, this is something I'm doing and I don't understand why others are not, what's driving it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    And if grass isn't managed it'll go to all scutch...... but then there are those that wouldn't know the difference



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    What’s the cause of scutch coming into grass?

    I have a small paddock that I had lambs on last spring with a creep feed for a month or more. It was well bared down. It came on great over the summer, was really pleased with it - I put it down to good dung when the lambs were ad lib on meal…

    But I see lately that a pile of scutch had come into it…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Has anyone tried regenerative farming? Moving livestock daily or weekly, eating the grass well before moving to next patch. Might sort the scutch



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,133 ✭✭✭endainoz


    Have to say OP you have a good argument. I had looked into going into drystock after a tough calving season one time. Can't rightly remember why I didn't go through with it, sucker for punishment I suppose.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Ha ha - yeah, I half tried that kinda mob grazing kinda craic this summer… trampling a lot of grass, etc…

    and now I have scutch, at least in that field…

    Not sure what else to say 😄

    ah - I think you need a few years to truly see any big change in any system…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Yea, Once we let the grass grow up and lie down, it promotes scutch,

    We don't cut silage so we have to graze everything, it deteroirates very quickly if you don't get to it in time,

    I can't say what happened to yours, but scutch doesn't thrive in tightlly grazed grass. We let a couple paddocks go too far last year and had to strip graze last november. It's only really coming right now



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Teagasc recommends glyphosphate to get rid of scutch 😳

    Any farmer worth their salt wouldn't let this stuff near their farm.

    Be careful who you get your advice from.

    https://www.agriland.ie/farming-news/teagasc-how-to-control-scutch-grass-and-thistles-in-the-long-term/



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,123 ✭✭✭✭Danzy


    I have a limited patch of mob grazing some scutch establishes, find that the overall range of plants is increasing and the scutch seems to get pushed back after a while.


    In places I have walked here where they have years of mob grazing experience, it's not a problem.

    A work in progress, we'll see how it goes next year.


    Scutch loves disturbance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭paddysdream


    Could you tell me a better way to do it ?

    See absolutely nothing wrong in the article you linked to .Its actually concerned with scutch etc in a cropping situation .Even if its all grass you have what would you suggest to destroy the old sod when reseeding if not roundup ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,212 ✭✭✭Good loser


    Would expect scutch to feature only in a tillage scenario.

    Yours is probably creeping bent. Tight grazing, if lime is adequate, will promote ryegrass and clover.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    You're probably right, I see my bad paddock improving with every grazing.

    Glyphosphate is a great aid to reseeding though,



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 578 ✭✭✭n1st


    Maybe this thread is just relevant to part time farmers like myself.

    Here's my story:

    I don't need to make any money from the farm but it cannot cost me anything.

    The schemes are enough for me to keep the hobby going.

    I have too much grass. I can manage 20 bullocks easily on 50 acres.

    I will not be storing any cattle or making silage or spreading anything that increases grass growth, why would I.

    Ill probably reduce the herd to 10 units or so.

    Weeds are not really priority for me either, as I said I have too much grass, the birds and insects can have the weeds.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,077 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    I understand your point, but a little money spent each year to maintain Lime, P’s, K’s, fences, weeds, drainage etc is better and easier than having to spend 1000’s in years to come trying to fix things



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Apparently there's a breed of farmer out there where that's not important, plenty of fields around here with accidental mixed species.

    each to there own I suppose. One thing I've noticed abut that style of farming is tha Ragwort won't tolerate it....nor docks either



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭Anto_Meath


    True, rented a bit of ground 3 years ago that had a few cattle tipping about on it for the previous 2 - 3 years. First year I was very disappointed with the weight gain of the cattle on it. But the last two years I have kept it grazed tight. Cattle are preforming far better on the fresh grass. But it took the first year clipping it to the clay with cows into mid November to get the scutch out of it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Not saying what you are doing is wrong - but you might need a bit more of a plan…

    regenerative grazing is grand, and it’s supposed to give life back to the soil by trampling grass. But it’s daily moves, small paddocks. You need wire and water in place…

    without this, you might need to consider a topper to keep things under control…

    50 acres is a nice bit of land. Would you consider only working some of it for a while? Say 10-15 acres, get that sorted as to how you want it and then roll out your system to the other 30 odd acres. Plus any money you from letting the 30 off acres would finance any changes you make on the bit you keep…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,983 ✭✭✭yosemitesam1


    Lots of lads cant tell the difference between scutch, cocksfoot, Yorkshire fog or bent grasses.


    ap was banned from here years ago did basically the system you are talking about op. There was a heap of money in it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 142 ✭✭jaginsligo


    What stock are u planning on getting? R u going to finish them?



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 142 ✭✭jaginsligo


    Agree, I inherited 28 acres here & hedges & drains haven't been touched in ages (30 years) so it going to take a few euros to sort & I'm eager to get it done before the greens but a stop to any reclaiming or tidying so trying to get it done this winter



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    I never had it in grazing before, didn't bother differentiating, it's shite grass thats all I know, Two paddocks got ahead of me last year and had to strip graze it last november so it appeared in those paddocks this year, It seems to be gone out of those paddocks now by hard grazing. Very difficult to manage grazing without the option of cutting for silage.... most paddocks here are less than an acre. Not really fair to ask a contractor to cut



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,953 ✭✭✭farawaygrass


    What’s the difference between regenerative farming and a paddock system? Both require frequent moves. Is it a longer rotation length in regenerative there for less fertiliser or letting them into stronger grass?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Better grass quality in the paddock system 80 DMD compared with low 60s in regenerative farming with a reduction in animal performance



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Ah, I wouldn’t be the best man to answer really…

    It is putting them into stronger grass - the idea is they eat a third, trample a third, leave a third. Move every 24 hours is the best. Leave the field rest then for as long as you can, 30-40 days during the summer if possible…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,123 ✭✭✭✭Danzy


    The paddocks I put in to mob grazing, known as the course meadow here, which says it all.


    I found it grew a lot more grass, lot less poaching, an addition grazing, was handy to have a bank of grass. I could even let them back in now for a few days with a bale, definitely helps ground that is soft last longer, the year was a big help there as well.


    Cattle seemed content and after it went in to good grass.

    Tried it after giving a bag and a half to the acre of 18 6 12 to a 2 acre paddock, thinking that's 50 quid shook out.


    Will add in another bit of mob grazing next year,

    It needs to be movement every day or it doesn't work.


    Too soon to say how it turns out but the costs of farming are out of tune with the reality of prices.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,091 ✭✭✭Who2


    Is this not going against everything we’ve been taught the last few years. Harvest 2020 was one direction and now we are pushed the opposite. I wonder if Teagasc were closed down completely would it leave everything and everyone to find their own balance. It’s a hard situation for anyone who has pushed hard and try to better the place to just sit back now and go back to where it probably was years ago.

    this isn’t a rant at you dinzee just more of a general observation.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Once a person is farming a few years they get to figure out what suits their own farm best. I doubt if farmers are that easily led by the nose by teagasc.

    You apply what research suits you to your own farm. No one that liked to farm progressively is going to let their farm go back



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,150 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Yeah, I’d agree with you to an extent Who…

    I only started farming a while back, and when I started it was divide into paddocks, 3 days grazing, 3 weeks rest and in you go again…

    I don’t know, I just want to avoid fertiliser. But I don’t think you can expect the ground to grow grass and not feed it anything and something not to give…

    So, giving the regenerative a half a go. I say half, as it’s maybe not 100% right what I am doing. But I am hoping I am improving the ground some bit in what I am doing…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,224 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    In an average stocking rate, a bag of 0 10 20/acre every year maintains fertility



  • Advertisement
Advertisement